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Slimnoid posted:I assume you washed your models in warm soapy water, right? Yes. I soaked them overnight in fact, since the shine wasn't coming off. That didn't seem to change anything. I guess I'll have to see what the condition of my test is in the morning. At least I already know paint goes on ok over the primer, so worst-case scenario, I just have to make sure I can get a good amount of protection from a coat of varnish on top. Everyone should just use HIPS. 
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May 24, 2016 03:28
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Avenging Dentist posted:How well should primer stick to resin? I know on plastic, most primers actually dissolve the surface a bit so they stick really well, but that doesn't apply to resin. If it comes off after scraping as hard as I can with a fingernail, is that a problem? I waited about 3 hours before testing it. I ask because I have some resin that's a bit shiny, and I'm worried that the mold release leached into the resin. (I'm also doing some A/B tests to compare with non-shiny resin.) Do you plan on scraping your finished models as hard as you can with a fingernail often?
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May 24, 2016 07:05
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Avenging Dentist posted:Yes. I soaked them overnight in fact, since the shine wasn't coming off. That didn't seem to change anything. I guess I'll have to see what the condition of my test is in the morning. At least I already know paint goes on ok over the primer, so worst-case scenario, I just have to make sure I can get a good amount of protection from a coat of varnish on top. Don't just soak them, give em a good scrub as well. I have an electric toothbrush and I keep the old heads around to scrub my models. What brand models were these?
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May 24, 2016 07:26
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Would anybody be interested in a video of me airbrushing my screamers or similar? I FINALLY finished assembling and prepping the dragon. Then I dropped it. RIP dragon you live in a box in pieces now. Edit: Taking pictures of PARTS of a baneblade at a time is fine. Taking a picture of the whole thing at once is eluding me. 
Lethemonster fucked around with this message at 10:56 on May 24, 2016 |
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May 24, 2016 07:44
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Had a vague urge to try painting again, which led to me digging up my collection of Lizardmen from some amount of time ago - no clue exactly when I got them, but I've got some of the new 'Seraphon' models so it can't have been that long ago. gently caress that's a dumb name, I don't understand what GW is trying to do with AoS at all. I liked my Lizardmen as just an ancient civilisation hanging out in a jungle, but now they're some kind of interstellar anti-Chaos army made of star magic? The only model I have that I'm not hugely ashamed of is my engine of the gods, which I'm pretty sure I can improve if I go back and add highlights. The base looks like poo poo but it has been hanging out in a box in a cupboard for a while and it was never that good to begin with:   My main question is what points would work best to go back over? Should I mostly focus on the riders and try to make the skink priest stand out more, or make the stegadon itself more interesting to look at? It looks really flat, which is also true of my other models, which I may end up removing the paint from and starting over. I also found an unpainted but undercoated Louen Leoncoeur which I'd like to paint, except past me was a dummy and glued him onto the hippogryph before painting. Is it possible to separate stuff that's been put together with plastic glue, or do I just have to accept that painting him will be a huge pain in the rear end because I'm dumb?
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May 24, 2016 09:15
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Ten Becquerels posted:Had a vague urge to try painting again, which led to me digging up my collection of Lizardmen from some amount of time ago - no clue exactly when I got them, but I've got some of the new 'Seraphon' models so it can't have been that long ago. gently caress that's a dumb name, I don't understand what GW is trying to do with AoS at all. I liked my Lizardmen as just an ancient civilisation hanging out in a jungle, but now they're some kind of interstellar anti-Chaos army made of star magic? Hitting all the orange, red, metal and brown parts with a brown wash would go a long way.
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May 24, 2016 09:24
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Avenging Dentist posted:Yes. I soaked them overnight in fact, since the shine wasn't coming off. That didn't seem to change anything. I guess I'll have to see what the condition of my test is in the morning. At least I already know paint goes on ok over the primer, so worst-case scenario, I just have to make sure I can get a good amount of protection from a coat of varnish on top. As well as thoroughly washing with warm soapy water, you need to spray the models at room temperature to make sure the paint sticks properly. The surface of the model needs to be warm enough basically. Also, paint doesn't fully cure for a full day or two, so testing durability after just a few minutes isn't a good measure really. jadebullet posted:No dice. I removed the needle and took apart the front section, cleaned up the inside of the pot and the paint tube with alcohol so it is very clean, put it back together and it is still blowing a poo poo ton of air out of the pot You need to soak the nozzle (the tiny tiny part that the needle goes through) in thinner and use a brush to carefully dislodge what's clogging it.
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May 24, 2016 10:37
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Lethemonster posted:Would anybody be interested in a video of me airbrushing my screamers or similar? Take pictures of the parts, stitch them together in GIMP  E: and yeah, I'd probably watch that youtube. You painted Kaladrax for me, you're Good People.
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May 24, 2016 17:15
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sassassin posted:Do you plan on scraping your finished models as hard as you can with a fingernail often? Since I plan to use these to play games with, it's always a possibility that bad things will happen. I figure, better safe than sorry. Z the IVth posted:Don't just soak them, give em a good scrub as well. I have an electric toothbrush and I keep the old heads around to scrub my models. I scrubbed them with a toothbrush (twice!) as well, but I saw some recommendations online to use degreasing soap (e.g. Dawn) like one would use Simple Green to strip paint. It's a Coatlai from CMoN. Overall, I'm not super-happy with the casting quality, but the model itself is rad. krushgroove posted:As well as thoroughly washing with warm soapy water, you need to spray the models at room temperature to make sure the paint sticks properly. The surface of the model needs to be warm enough basically. Also, paint doesn't fully cure for a full day or two, so testing durability after just a few minutes isn't a good measure really. Yup, that's why I waited until May (I live in the grim and frostbitten north) to prime. The primer adhered just fine on the plastic sprue I tested. Of course, primer sticks better to plastic in the first place... Avenging Dentist fucked around with this message at 17:28 on May 24, 2016 |
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May 24, 2016 17:18
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Xposting from the 30K thread - It's been a while since I've posted poo poo I've painted, but.. I had a lot of fun with this kit (even if I about quadrupled the price of the basic Land Raider). Forge World MKIIB 'Raider with the Reinforced Armour upgrade, aftermarket treads from Blood and Skulls Industries, and the FW Legion Pintle Mount weapon set plus a couple of MKIII bits for the gunner. And Death Guard Legion rhino side doors, and a pair of assault launchers..  The Vae Tyrannis - The Woe of Tyrants.   Quandoquem solum solutio problematies ad speciem campoletam subtilitatens penitus indigemus nisi hospitio Sometimes, the only solution to a problem is a complete and utter lack of anything resembling subtlety  Endurance  Vengeance  Inevitable Woe of Tyrants  Detail shot of the gunner. I'm aware the highlighting could be cleaner but I've long since stabilized on a one-meter standard (ie, it looks good from about a meter out) rather than going for the Golden Daemon. Had a lot of fun fitting everything together and I quite like the end result.
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May 24, 2016 17:32
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I just found a thread where a guy is painting up a gorgeous little snow speeder model from star wars and doing brilliant tutorial panels on how he's detailing and painting it. Scroll down a bit to see the first relevant post: http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234989194-bandai-snowspeeder/page-4
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May 24, 2016 19:57
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Well, I tested on a small piece of the model where I'd scraped the shiny layer off with a knife on one half, and left it on the other (both sides were washed with soapy water and scrubbed with a toothbrush). Then I left it overnight. The scraped side holds the paint pretty well, but the non-scraped side flakes off without much effort. I think I'm just gonna give up on this model, since this is already the second replacement I've gotten.
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May 24, 2016 20:05
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I've had those types of models from Forgeworld too. I think once it was about a good quarter of a crisis suit that was still shiny. Of course they never replaced them unless the cast was bad. Just wash them some more is all they said. gently caress their terrible products.
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May 24, 2016 20:08
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Chill la Chill posted:I've had those types of models from Forgeworld too. I think once it was about a good quarter of a crisis suit that was still shiny. Of course they never replaced them unless the cast was bad. Just wash them some more is all they said. gently caress their terrible products. Strangely, the thing that prompted me to worry about this was someone who had this issue with a Forgeworld mini, and they replaced the whole thing for him since he'd already assembled it before realizing the issue.
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May 24, 2016 20:16
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I'm trying to freehand some writing on a tank, but I'm having trouble keeping my detail brush stiff enough to write. Is there like, a paint-pen I could use, or will anyone shun me if I use a fine-tipped marker to write 'THIS SIDE UP' on a Leman Russ?
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May 24, 2016 20:26
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There's "Gundam Markers" that, obviously, Gundam people use for their models. You could probably use any kind of art marker, though. I like Sakura's Micron line, though I don't use them on minis.
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May 24, 2016 20:29
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Brewsuke posted:I'm trying to freehand some writing on a tank, but I'm having trouble keeping my detail brush stiff enough to write. Is there like, a paint-pen I could use, or will anyone shun me if I use a fine-tipped marker to write 'THIS SIDE UP' on a Leman Russ? Avenging Dentist posted:Strangely, the thing that prompted me to worry about this was someone who had this issue with a Forgeworld mini, and they replaced the whole thing for him since he'd already assembled it before realizing the issue.
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May 24, 2016 20:29
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Brewsuke posted:I'm trying to freehand some writing on a tank, but I'm having trouble keeping my detail brush stiff enough to write. Is there like, a paint-pen I could use, or will anyone shun me if I use a fine-tipped marker to write 'THIS SIDE UP' on a Leman Russ? There are such things as paint markers yes. http://www.dickblick.com/products/montana-black-paint-marker-empty-markers-and-replacement-nibs/ http://www.dickblick.com/items/19907-1007/ I recommend using the smallest tip you can get Also varnish before you use it. The tips can get kind of rough on paint and it WILL rub paint off of the mini if you don't varnish first. signalnoise fucked around with this message at 20:33 on May 24, 2016 |
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May 24, 2016 20:30
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signalnoise posted:There are such things as paint markers yes. Any inks recommended? I don't wanna pour Abaddon Black into something.
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May 24, 2016 20:35
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Brewsuke posted:Any inks recommended? I don't wanna pour Abaddon Black into something. If you're doing black, then Montana's "strong black" ink will work. It is an alcohol-based, EXTREMELY OPAQUE ink. I use it to clean up base rims. But those paint markers will take any acrylic paint. If you want, I can show you exactly what the strong black ink does, I have some in a marker already.
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May 24, 2016 20:38
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malal posted:I sent you a PM. I have something that should work for what you need. Sorry, I don't have PMs. Email? I'm willing to try alternatives and will likely get the TC910 if it doesn't work out.
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May 24, 2016 20:42
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Chill la Chill posted:Sorry, I don't have PMs. Email? I'm willing to try alternatives and will likely get the TC910 if it doesn't work out. Conversion man at hotmail dot com. What are you using now, and what are you looking for in an upgrade?
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May 25, 2016 01:10
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Their flashing tongues, spitting out blood and poison.
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I've just bought a squillion reaper bones, and I want to make sure I actually paint them. Given that there are a squillion of them, a fast way to paint them that I will actually do is a priority. As an ex warhammer 40k IG player I've had experience in bulk painting a a couple of hundred guys: prime with a green rattle can, paint in 4 additional colours, wash, done. The obvious downside is that that produced an army of uniform IG dudes, whereas the bones KS guys are a diverse assortment of monsters, a project I've never really tackled before. Any tips on rapidly painting a couple of hundred different miniatures in a way that will prevent 'oh hey you've army painted this unrelated collection of monsters' homogeneity? I'm really torn on how to do it. The options seem to be: Plan A * Bulk zenithal prime with my airbrush * Group miniatures into things with related colour schemes, make some glazes, brush glazes * Dip/Wash with ink * Base * Varnish Pros: Hey, underpainting should give me some decent quality results. Cons: Never painted large scale with glazes before so not sure about the speed. Plan B * Bulk prime a single colour w/airbrush * Group miniatures into things with a related core colour and basecoat w/airbrush e.g.: - - - Flesh: Barbarian dudes.. giants? - - - Green: swamp things, marilith, medusa, goblins, Cthulhu - - - Brown: Anything furry and/or brown, anyone wearing leather - - - Bone/White : skeletons, mummies, cloud giants - - - Black: Armored dudes, furniture * Paint 2-3 additional colours of detail * Dip * Base * Varnish Pros: This is super fast. Cons: Not a ton of quality. Any thoughts on the pros/cons? Is there a better way to tackle this project? Cthulhu Dreams fucked around with this message at 07:46 on May 25, 2016 |
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May 25, 2016 07:11
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Cthulhu Dreams posted:I've just bought a squillion reaper bones, and I want to make sure I actually paint them. Given that there are a squillion of them, a fast way to paint them that I will actually do is a priority. As an ex warhammer 40k IG player I've had experience in bulk painting a a couple of hundred guys: prime with a green rattle can, paint in 4 additional colours, wash, done. The obvious downside is that that produced an army of uniform IG dudes, whereas the bones KS guys are a diverse assortment of monsters, a project I've never really tackled before. Glazes are slow. They are thinner than a layer and used to built up super smooth colour blends or to tint things. What kindof art style are you going for? You can paint really cool looking stuff quickly if you aren't aiming for realism. The more realistic you want something to be, in general, the more blending it takes. You do have an airbrush though - that should give you flexibility in basecoating and highlighting nicely with quick colour changes so you don't have to be uniform across all the models. Whats stopping you from doing that?
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May 25, 2016 07:46
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Lethemonster posted:
This is a great question that I hadn't considered (lol!). My key driver is to get the maximum value of the time invested, so I am very open to ideas including non-realistic styles. Whatever I can rapidly execute with some fairly basic skills to get the dudes on the table. quote:You do have an airbrush though - that should give you flexibility in basecoating and highlighting nicely with quick colour changes so you don't have to be uniform across all the models. Whats stopping you from doing that? I bought the airbrush for base coating Gundams and vehicles originally, so I have limited skills. That said, I don't think it's a show stopper, and it's not like I don't have stuff to practice on. I really hadn't considered it's applicability to highlighting because I was looking at techniques that could be batched/assembly lined because I have to chew through 300+ models. Cthulhu Dreams fucked around with this message at 08:05 on May 25, 2016 |
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May 25, 2016 08:03
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Cthulhu Dreams posted:This is a great question that I hadn't considered (lol!). My key driver is to get the maximum value of the time invested, so I am very open to ideas including non-realistic styles. Whatever I can rapidly execute with some fairly basic skills to get the dudes on the table. What's the need to get them done super quick? What kindof paint and colour range do you have available? Mixing highlights in the cup is easy if your painting a model in one go, but if you want to batch basecoat and highlight large amounts of models its really easy if you have the colours as their own paints. With the bones range - unless you bought lots of the same models - there shouldnt be too much worry about things looking batch produced or samey. You'll be applying the same paints to different shaped and sized areas of the minis - this is enough to stop it looking repetitive. When it comes to brush painting I like painting stuff up in a cartoony style if I want it done quickly, like this http://www.coolminiornot.com/327987?browseid=15185694
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May 25, 2016 08:19
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I've made some more progress on the Imperial Fists the past few nights. Just two heavy bolters to do, finish the bases and matt varnish then that's job done. 
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May 25, 2016 13:06
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Avenging Dentist posted:Well, I tested on a small piece of the model where I'd scraped the shiny layer off with a knife on one half, and left it on the other (both sides were washed with soapy water and scrubbed with a toothbrush). Then I left it overnight. The scraped side holds the paint pretty well, but the non-scraped side flakes off without much effort. I think I'm just gonna give up on this model, since this is already the second replacement I've gotten. It's possible the resin hasn't cured properly and the surface interacted with something on the inside of the mold or has bonded with the mold release. Maybe try scrubbing it with some abrasive polishing paste to remove the top layer?
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May 25, 2016 14:00
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Lethemonster posted:What's the need to get them done super quick? Desire not to be sitting on a huge quantity of unpainted plastic, desire to get it on the table for running d&d games, my lack of time and partner acceptance factor. Doesn't have to be done super quick but back of the envelope maths says that if I want to paint ~500 dudes in ~2-3 hours a week with a year (plausible estimate of the possible), I've got 12-18 minutes a model max, which is speed painting territory for me. hence how can I army paint these quote:What kindof paint and colour range do you have available? Mixing highlights in the cup is easy if your painting a model in one go, but if you want to batch basecoat and highlight large amounts of models its really easy if you have the colours as their own paints. Big chunk of the Vallejo game color line, Alacad metallic, assorted tamiya and humbrol acrylics and enamels. Your point about not mixing for highlights and just using a new colour is a good observation. quote:With the bones range - unless you bought lots of the same models - there shouldnt be too much worry about things looking batch produced or samey. You'll be applying the same paints to different shaped and sized areas of the minis - this is enough to stop it looking repetitive. The physical models looking different is a great point. I really like the cartoony effects, not a bad idea.
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May 25, 2016 14:38
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Cthulhu Dreams posted:I've just bought a squillion reaper bones, and I want to make sure I actually paint them. The bulk of your time will be spent reshaping them and then scrubbing them clean.
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May 25, 2016 15:08
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Well, I completed this Lich for Frostgrave and now that I've taken photos of him, realize he looks pretty awful. i feel like my paints never really seem to pop as much as I want and they're never as vibrant as I'd like them to be. The only thing i'm really happy with is the orb. Any tips for making sections pop more and be distinct? my models always seem to somewhat run together.  
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May 25, 2016 15:53
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Most of making a mini "pop" is in choice of colors. Once you've chosen good colors, execution is relatively straight-forward. The two biggest factors here would be to a) choose brighter colors, and b) increase the tonal shift between your shades and highlights. What I mean by that is that it's totally OK to have a dark purple for the robes like you do, but the highlight should be trending towards magenta in order to draw the eye. With a wider tonal variation between shade and highlight, you're then left with one final choice - more layers to keep the transition smooth, or a wider shift between fewer transitions. The former looks awesome but takes a gently caress-ton of time, the latter is much quicker but can look "cartoony" up close. At tabletop distance, I actually find the latter is more appealing to the eye - look at richyp's Infinity minis for a fantastic example of wider tonal shifts that produce a beautiful "pop." Once you've got that part down, another technique that will help is "darklining," which helps to visually reinforce transitions. This sort of technique would really help with the gold edging for the red armor plates or the silver pointy bits against the purple robe.
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May 25, 2016 16:33
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I gots me an airbrush problem; the needle no longer actually threads. I'm hoping there's some clogged paint below the cup, so I've left it in thinner, but it didn't budge with any of the scrubbing I did, so if it is a clog it hardened pretty fast. The needle doesn't look bent, but it was a cheapo airbrush, so I'm not discounting the possibility something's mechanically hosed in it.
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May 25, 2016 16:52
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Holy poo poo, you guys, VMA metallics. Are the regular VMA paints this pigment-dense?
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May 25, 2016 18:19
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Z the IVth posted:It's possible the resin hasn't cured properly and the surface interacted with something on the inside of the mold or has bonded with the mold release. Maybe try scrubbing it with some abrasive polishing paste to remove the top layer? Sadly, the amount that I'd have to scrape off seems to be enough that I'd lose a lot of the detail. I've tried fine-grit sandpaper but the mold release goes rather deep.
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May 25, 2016 18:29
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I just realized, after months of painting poo poo, with a couple hundred dollars in paints.... That I never bought any green paint. In any shade. How the gently caress did I miss that? I have every other color and shade under the sun.
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May 25, 2016 18:33
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Pro tip: mix blue and yellow
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May 25, 2016 19:39
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theroachman posted:Pro tip: mix blue and yellow Speaking of yellow, it's one of those weird colors for me. Like the other colors on the wheel, you can use the next color over for a shade or a highlight. I mean you can go orange/green for a yellow shade, but not highlight. Yellow you can only add white, it's the ultimate highlight.
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May 25, 2016 19:42
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theroachman posted:Pro tip: mix blue and yellow But... mixing pigments is a subtractive process! His greens will be muted! noooooo
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May 25, 2016 19:42
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Okay yeah; my brush has a problem. I've left it in thinner for about six hours and tried to wash it out, but I still can't get the needle to go all the way in. Any suggested fixes aside from "get a new, non-cheap airbrush"?
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May 25, 2016 20:13
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