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Your car doesn't actually handle well with everything stiff. That is just something lovely coilovers to to seem sporty. You have good coilovers. Leave them softer so you can improve traction.
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May 25, 2016 02:01
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I agree. I've read this book in it's entirety before buying anything. I refuse to be another stance guy. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005X0ZANO/ref=oh_aui_d_detailpage_o00_?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Pretty good book, in my opinion. It's entry level reading but if you have engineering experience you can easily apply what is taught into tangible calculation. The guy has worked with Yunick so you know he has crazy experience.
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May 25, 2016 02:06
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I always wanted to get the RCE Tarmac Zero when I was still spending actual money on car parts. Maybe I should treat myself.
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May 25, 2016 02:18
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Wow, that was quick. Looks good and seems like a good starting point for the shocks. On an auto-x course turning up the shocks might make the car faster, you will have to experiment and see. Will depend on the course itself and tires. On a race track I would not want them overly stiff. So the way the RCE stuff (and a few others) works, is that KW makes the stuff, and they are a lot like KWs, but with a few little differences to the springs and valving. You are basically getting something a little more like a clubsport than the V3, but it costs less than a clubsport which is nice. Actually the same or slightly less than a v3. KW V3s are really nice, but they sacrifice on track performance for ride comfort, and for the older cars I don't like the spring rates at all. And the T2s also ride perfectly well on the road because they have a good dampers with enough travel. jamal fucked around with this message at 06:58 on May 25, 2016 |
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May 25, 2016 06:55
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nm posted:Your car doesn't actually handle well with everything stiff. That is just something lovely coilovers to to seem sporty. And also use the weight transfer like God indended in a Subaru to really kick some rear end. Too stiff = no weight transfer.
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May 25, 2016 08:51
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First priority was getting the coilovers safe for road use. Everything is pretty conservatively set as far as damping/rebound/camber goes. I plan to methodically tune it in on course using a pyrometer and lots o paper. It will also help me figure out what I might need to do for rear camber and sway bars. However from what I've read Subaru hit it pretty dead on with this car.jamal posted:Wow, that was quick. Times where I want to wrench on my car and when I actually have the time to do it are too far apart. I had a 6 hour gap Sunday and decided to take it. Though I was racing the sunset for the last hour or so. I was pretty relieved not to have to put the car back up in the stands after the test drive which occurred well after the sun went down.
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May 25, 2016 14:05
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CAT INTERCEPTOR posted:Too stiff = no weight transfer. That is not how physics work. About the same amount of weight transfer is going to happen for a given cornering force no matter what you do to the suspension. The only thing we can really change a is the rate and front to rear distribution.
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May 25, 2016 16:44
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Center of mass will also drastically change the roll forces. Theoretically, a vehicle with a CoM between the axle lines wouldn't need a sway bar. Wheels on the outside of the turn will receive the same amount of weight as the inside. This is a drastic simplification and not true in real world applications but it's the core basis of which suspension design occurs. There are actually race cars with the CoM below the axle line that will actually need the opposite of a sway bar. They will have linkages that will induce body roll to prevent too much dynamic camber.
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May 25, 2016 16:54
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Yeah, probably should have clarified that I meant spring rates aren't going to really alter your total weight transfer for a given cornering force. I guess slightly because with a ton of body roll your cg is going to move laterally a small amount. I've found that even though you might compromise suspension geometry you can sometimes be faster just by lowering the car and jacking up spring rates and maybe putting on some huge wheel spacers/low offset wheels. Long time rule of suspension setup: if you don't have ideal geometry, don't let the suspension move very much. Our time attack car probably didn't have enough roll center/geometry correction for how low it was, and had I think +30 offset wheels with 25mm spacers which put the centerline of the rim about 2 inches farther out than stock. So yeah, adding 4" to the track and lowering the car close to 3" in addition to gutting the car was s a fairly big change. Then it had 800lb springs all around and huge swaybars.
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May 25, 2016 18:12
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jamal posted:I've found that even though you might compromise suspension geometry you can sometimes be faster just by lowering the car and jacking up spring rates and maybe putting on some huge wheel spacers/low offset wheels. Long time rule of suspension setup: if you don't have ideal geometry, don't let the suspension move very much. The problem with that is that it only works with a really good hotshoe; someone like me would have no end of trouble trying to get that skittering menace to handle much less get the maximum out of it.
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May 25, 2016 18:20
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The owner offered to let me drive it when we were out testing. I declined. Although I wouldn't call it a "skittering menace." The suspension still worked and moved and had good shocks, that is just where we ended up. Still probably scary as poo poo to drive fast though. it was set up a bit loose to improve corner exit speed and keep tire temps relatively even.
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May 25, 2016 19:17
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Had my LGT aligned the other day, and the shops advice was "Replace the entire rear end, like if you can find a wrecked car on craigslist or something." They couldn't get a couple things to budge on the left rear, apparently. It was originally an Illinois car, and I knew there was a fair amount of rust, but that seems excessive. A quick guess at replacing everything with OEM was around $4k. I'm not sure I'm willing to replace everything, but nuts, bolts and anything that won't turn doesn't seem like a bad idea. Good times.
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May 25, 2016 21:08
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Unless the crossmember is so rusted that it is structurally unsafe, you would probably be fine with something like a whiteline adjustable arm kit plus some new hardware. Might have to cut off a few bolts but it would be like $350-400 tops. Looks like they are on backorder, but supposed to be available in the next few weeks. jamal fucked around with this message at 22:06 on May 25, 2016 |
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May 25, 2016 21:37
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After I traded in my 2002 WRX for the BRZ, I took a peek at the service history on it since it was still tied to my account. Found it that they had to replace the rear subframe due to rust before they resold it.
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May 25, 2016 22:04
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jamal posted:Unless the crossmember is so rusted that it is structurally unsafe, you would probably be fine with something like a whiteline adjustable arm kit plus some new hardware. Might have to cut off a few bolts but it would be like $350-400 tops. I don't think its terminal (except for the exhaust bolts D:). Here's a pic that gives a vague idea: 
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May 25, 2016 23:49
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Ah, Subaru suspension geometry. Makes me want to hack up the rusty RS in my field and convert to 4-wheel wishbones. Then the only thing that will be holding it back is the engine and transmission! ... lol Subaru.
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May 26, 2016 14:02
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MalleusDei posted:I don't think its terminal (except for the exhaust bolts D:). Here's a pic that gives a vague idea: I can still see paint on that thing. It's mint!
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May 26, 2016 16:56
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FogHelmut posted:My wife was going to get a car this summer, and the Outback was on the list. I seem to be one of the few people I know with a newer Subaru that hasn't had any problems. I've owned my 2015 Forester 2.5i for a little over a year now and it's been absolutely great. Just approaching 14k miles.
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May 26, 2016 23:33
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MalleusDei posted:I don't think its terminal (except for the exhaust bolts D:). Here's a pic that gives a vague idea: Yeah I don't see anything terrible there, can you get a picture of some of the links and bolts? It sounds more like a few bolts are just stuck and the shop you went to doesn't want to deal with it. Although what tends to happen is that the sleeve in the bushing seizes to the bolt, so you have to cut it apart and destroy the bushing just to get the arm off. A sawzall works pretty well at getting them out- you just cut between the subframe and bushing. Helps if you can get the nut off so it's not super tight. So you could even just get new bushings and hardware and use the stock arms but that is kind of a pain in the rear end and doesn't save you much money over new arms. And if you pay someone to do it the labor will probably end up making the whole thing cost more. If you've got a jack and stands and some tools I would probably start by getting under the car yourself and try to loosen all the hardware. Mostly worry about the lower arms and toe links. The upper arm and front trailing/upright mount can get left alone. Then you can figure out what needs to get cut off and replaced so you can have new hardware ready to go. Here's a diagram with part numbers: http://opposedforces.com/parts/legacy/us_b13/type_1/suspension_and_axle/rear_suspension/illustration_2/ Bolts 2, 6, 15, and then nut #20 are the ones you would probably need. Or if you want to get that whiteline kit they make a thing to replace the stock adjuster bolts (#2) since they aren't needed anymore. jamal fucked around with this message at 23:50 on May 26, 2016 |
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May 26, 2016 23:48
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I have a few parts I accrued for a WRX swap on my 99 Forester S that never happened Are they worth anything? 1 set of Prodrive springs for bugeye 1 catless up-pipe with OEM-style EGT port, from another bugeye. Federal spec 02 WRX ECU and a lot of the ECU harness Tactrix Cable with jumper for WRX.
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May 27, 2016 00:14
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I'm selling a 2000 legacy sedan on CL and the kbb estimate seems super low. Just from one of those quick estimates on the site it's telling me $1250, but I can't even find one listed around here for that cheap that isn't pretty much totaled. It's really hard to tell with CL because so many people shoot for the moon, but after quite a bit of searching I decided asking 1900 (probably willing to go down to 1600) seemed right. It does have over 200k miles on it but it runs well and doesn't look terrible. Am I asking too much? I'm just looking to get a fair price even if it's a bit low and get rid of it quickly. Also, I'm in CO so Subaru is incredibly popular out here. I don't know how much that matters.
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May 27, 2016 02:18
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NESguerilla posted:I'm selling a 2000 legacy sedan on CL and the kbb estimate seems super low. Just from one of those quick estimates on the site it's telling me $1250, but I can't even find one listed around here for that cheap that isn't pretty much totaled. It's really hard to tell with CL because so many people shoot for the moon, but after quite a bit of searching I decided asking 1900 (probably willing to go down to 1600) seemed right. It does have over 200k miles on it but it runs well and doesn't look terrible. Am I asking too much? I'm just looking to get a fair price even if it's a bit low and get rid of it quickly. Are you in a rush to sell? If not, price it high and see what happens. If you don't get any action, just pull the ad and put up a new one at a lower price.
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May 27, 2016 02:51
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I think you're selling in the wrong part of the year. If you sold closer to winter, I bet you would get more.
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May 27, 2016 02:51
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daslog posted:Are you in a rush to sell? If not, price it high and see what happens. If you don't get any action, just pull the ad and put up a new one at a lower price. Yeah. I'm in sort of a rush. I should say I don't know if my pricing was too much yet it's only been up for a few hours. I was just shocked to see how low kbb estimated it and I don't want to screw myself by pricing too high. At the same time I'm hesitant to try and get rid of it for 1200 because that seems really low and I don't see any 2000 legacys going for nearly that cheap online that aren't completely trashed.
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May 27, 2016 03:56
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NESguerilla posted:Yeah. I'm in sort of a rush. I should say I don't know if my pricing was too much yet it's only been up for a few hours. I was just shocked to see how low kbb estimated it and I don't want to screw myself by pricing too high. At the same time I'm hesitant to try and get rid of it for 1200 because that seems really low and I don't see any 2000 legacys going for nearly that cheap online that aren't completely trashed. I'd expect that a less than twenty year old Subaru in good running condition with nothing obviously wrong with it that's not rusty as hell would bring at least two grand.
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May 27, 2016 14:07
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jamal posted:Yeah I don't see anything terrible there, can you get a picture of some of the links and bolts? I am in agreement. This doesn't look bad at all. I will add while you have everything out, you may want to clean things up and get some good paint at to keep the surface rust from turning into something more serious. Wojcigitty posted:I'd expect that a less than twenty year old Subaru in good running condition with nothing obviously wrong with it that's not rusty as hell would bring at least two grand. KBB often is often very a bit out of wack when it comes to cars > 10 years old that are desirable.
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May 27, 2016 15:08
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NESguerilla posted:Yeah. I'm in sort of a rush. I should say I don't know if my pricing was too much yet it's only been up for a few hours. I was just shocked to see how low kbb estimated it and I don't want to screw myself by pricing too high. At the same time I'm hesitant to try and get rid of it for 1200 because that seems really low and I don't see any 2000 legacys going for nearly that cheap online that aren't completely trashed. I'm in the Seattle area and we have roughly the same valuations for older Subarus. I would post it for $2500 obo min and maybe drop to $2k if that was offered. I got my 05 Impreza RS for $3500 (which matched KBB) and it needed a head gasket. It would sell all day at $5K with the hg done. Meydey fucked around with this message at 15:45 on May 27, 2016 |
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May 27, 2016 15:42
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Thanks guys. Been getting a decent amount of hits so I think I priced it well or possibly on the low end. I only paid 1800 for it so I don't really mind getting in the realm of that for it. I did put some new tires on it and have a bit of work done though.
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May 27, 2016 16:10
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HFX posted:KBB often is often very a bit out of wack when it comes to cars > 10 years old that are desirable. Absolutely. It seems that KBB kind of stops caring about cars once they are about 10ish years old and just assumes they are all junkers. They lowball the hell out of desirable, older cars. I've bought and sold a couple of cars for significantly more than their KBB value.
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May 27, 2016 18:52
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jamal posted:Yeah I don't see anything terrible there, can you get a picture of some of the links and bolts? I can probably find some time to get under the car and take some pics this weekend. HFX posted:I am in agreement. This doesn't look bad at all. I will add while you have everything out, you may want to clean things up and get some good paint at to keep the surface rust from turning into something more serious. Should I get after it with a wire wheel and hit it with some POR-15 or something similar?
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May 27, 2016 19:39
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MalleusDei posted:I can probably find some time to get under the car and take some pics this weekend. How many more years do you want to have it? In your current situation, that's like a 3/10 in terms of rust. But yea if you want your car to survive the apocalypse, Por-15 or something similar after removing existing rust should do the trick. Unrelated question: If I were to build a custom exhaust for my car, where would I get the turbo flange? I guess it's pretty bad I'm this far into my car and don't know who makes the turbo. Edit: 'nother question. Who makes the best stainless tube kit? I was looking for V-band connections, catalytic converter and a high flow muffler. um excuse me fucked around with this message at 01:32 on May 28, 2016 |
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May 28, 2016 01:29
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um excuse me posted:Unrelated question: If I were to build a custom exhaust for my car, where would I get the turbo flange? I guess it's pretty bad I'm this far into my car and don't know who makes the turbo. Kinugawa makes a few clones of Subaru turbo flanges. http://shopping.kinugawaturbo.com/turbooutletflangesubaruej20ej25wrxstidumpdownpipe.aspx
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May 28, 2016 01:30
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I would need it for the FA20 motor. A quick google search shows the turbo is a Garrett MGT2259S. I have no idea how to decipher that into something that would fit.
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May 28, 2016 01:37
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um excuse me posted:I would need it for the FA20 motor. A quick google search shows the turbo is a Garrett MGT2259S. I have no idea how to decipher that into something that would fit. Try emailing Kinugawa and see if they have something already made or on the burner or a prototype you can snap up.
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May 28, 2016 01:53
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Vibrant makes ok stuff at reasonable prices, but you can probably just buy an exhaust for what it costs to make. The "catback" i think is actually the same as older cars.
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May 28, 2016 02:59
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The WRX has that silly Y pipe to two huge mufflers. Good thing about all of that is there is a lot of real estate to work with. What I want to do is go catback to muffled left, cutout right unmuffled. No one makes anything like that and I got a ridiculously low quote on making one if I provide the plumbing. Now the question is how do I want to do the cutout? Option 2 is preferred but I don't know if it will even fit.
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May 28, 2016 04:12
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I dunno if there are any Chicago subaru goons on here, but I have a set of 4x 205/55R-16" Dunlop SP Winter Sport 3D with about 15k miles on them mounted on steelies if anybody wants them. Moving out of state, PM me for details.
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May 28, 2016 05:56
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um excuse me posted:The WRX has that silly Y pipe to two huge mufflers. Good thing about all of that is there is a lot of real estate to work with. What I want to do is go catback to muffled left, cutout right unmuffled. No one makes anything like that and I got a ridiculously low quote on making one if I provide the plumbing. Now the question is how do I want to do the cutout? option 2 would give you a CEL every time you use the cutout unless you code out the catalytic converter, at which point you might as well pull it anyways. . You would need the cutout downstream of the your downstream o2 sensor if you're maintaining a cat.
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May 28, 2016 06:04
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um excuse me posted:The WRX has that silly Y pipe to two huge mufflers. Good thing about all of that is there is a lot of real estate to work with. What I want to do is go catback to muffled left, cutout right unmuffled. No one makes anything like that and I got a ridiculously low quote on making one if I provide the plumbing. Now the question is how do I want to do the cutout? Dont be lovely, put the split after the cat. Makes no difference to performance and you dont contribute to the apocalypse
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May 28, 2016 06:40
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| # ? May 29, 2024 16:24 |
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A Saucy Bratwurst posted:Dont be lovely, put the split after the cat. Makes no difference to performance and you dont contribute to the apocalypse Don't do what Dietrich don't does.
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May 28, 2016 06:46
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