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Gravitas Shortfall posted:These are really good for what is basically a first try. Next I'd suggest experimenting with some washes, try black on the metals, a dark green on the orc skin, etc. Thank you  I did do a wash on each model but then I think I overdid the drybrushing and basically covered up the wash. Will continue practicing as I'm hoping to be able to paint up my Dungeon Saga minis to a decent level in the next few months.
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May 27, 2016 02:12
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Any brick and mortar store I could reasonably expect to find something like Vallejo airbrush primer and thinners?
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May 27, 2016 03:17
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cyberia posted:Thank you Dry brushing is a pretty messy technique, so yeah, it's easy to obscure the detail that the wash brings out. It's also best used on heavily textured surfaces like fur, hair and chainmail, or surfaces you want to simulate texture on, like metal or bone. For smooth surfaces like cloth and skin it's best to do more traditional highlighting. A quick and easy method is painting a light base color, giving it a darker wash, then picking out the raised areas (nose/cheeks/chin, cloth folds) in the base coat again. Sorry if this is basic poo poo you already know.
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May 27, 2016 03:50
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No, it's genuinely good advice. I'm starting from zero and am happy to learn everything I can.
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May 27, 2016 04:47
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Mugaaz posted:Any brick and mortar store I could reasonably expect to find something like Vallejo airbrush primer and thinners? I'm not sure where you are, but in Australia they're *everywhere* From memory Vallejo is a little tougher for Americans for some reason.
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May 27, 2016 05:13
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I think I'm getting better at this
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May 27, 2016 05:36
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Mugaaz posted:Any brick and mortar store I could reasonably expect to find something like Vallejo airbrush primer and thinners? Wayland and Darksphere both have it in store in the UK.
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May 27, 2016 05:37
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Who knows what evil lurks in the hearts of minis? This is what I spent 2-3 hours on this evening. Mostly as an experiment in doing highlights for black (and red). Plus I love The Shadow. Really pleased with how he came out. He looks better in person though. If I'm gonna keep painting I think I need to set up a simple light box, figure out how to use my camera better, and how to to level correction better than "Fiddle with sliders until 'looks ok". Kinda think I might overdone the contrast on the black but it looks better at a distance, so its probably fine. First time painting a reaper bones, it wasn't too bad. A bit disappointed a lot of the fine detail on the pistols was lost from the original non-bones version. Who knows if I'll ever get to use this guy in anything... The Shadow Knows! Galaga Galaxian fucked around with this message at 07:24 on May 27, 2016 |
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May 27, 2016 07:20
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Here's a badly lit quick snap of the finished Fists. Happy with how they came out and I love the Heresy era aesthetic. I'll try to get some better shots in daylight when I can. 
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May 27, 2016 08:31
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Lethemonster posted:Guess who spilled acetone on their model. Send all your models to me where they'll be safe.
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May 27, 2016 10:08
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big_g posted:Here's a badly lit quick snap of the finished Fists. Happy with how they came out and I love the Heresy era aesthetic. 'Badly lit' he says. Pft. (Your poo poo is rad though)
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May 27, 2016 13:31
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Hey, real quick question- I usually pin my minis to resin bases, but I'm thinking about using some recessed bases and water effects to put some plastic models ankle-deep in the "water". I haven't done anything like this before, and was wondering if being held by the cured/dried water effects would be strong enough to skip pinning (this would be for a relatively small/light model). I'm still at the idea stage for my project though, and wanted to know how stupid it would be.
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May 27, 2016 14:20
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What's this tack you guys use to hold models in place? I can't keep gripping bases, it's destroying my body.
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May 27, 2016 14:49
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I recommend pinning whenever there's doubt. It'll come down to your water effect, though. Some will essentially add a 1mm glue layer, others will just add layers of gloss.
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May 27, 2016 14:51
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Cat Face Joe posted:What's this tack you guys use to hold models in place? I can't keep gripping bases, it's destroying my body. Are you asking for a specific brand that works the best for models? Because I'd be interested to know that too. Otherwise it's a removable adhesive putty that goes by about a billion different brand names. I've used a couple different brands and they all worked to some degree. I didn't care for any of them though and just keep on holding the bases.
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May 27, 2016 15:09
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Cat Face Joe posted:What's this tack you guys use to hold models in place? I can't keep gripping bases, it's destroying my body. Just normal sticky-tack. The brand I use is Tesa.
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May 27, 2016 15:18
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Galaga Galaxian posted:Who knows what evil lurks in the hearts of minis? It looks weird to me that the black shadows on the back of the cloak don't go all the way to the bottom. The grey outline makes it stand out and look like a drawn on design instead of shadow. Like you said though, probably fine from a distance. The inside of the cape with the red looks perfect.
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May 27, 2016 15:41
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GoodBee posted:I didn't care for any of them though and just keep on holding the bases. I end up holding the base so tightly that I tense up my shoulders. I can consciously keep myself from doing it but it's distracting. Drone posted:Just normal sticky-tack. The brand I use is Tesa. Cool, thanks.
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May 27, 2016 16:58
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Last pictures I'll post but here are some shots in daylight of the yellow marines.   
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May 27, 2016 19:23
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Gravy Train Robber posted:Hey, real quick question- I usually pin my minis to resin bases, but I'm thinking about using some recessed bases and water effects to put some plastic models ankle-deep in the "water". I haven't done anything like this before, and was wondering if being held by the cured/dried water effects would be strong enough to skip pinning (this would be for a relatively small/light model). I'm still at the idea stage for my project though, and wanted to know how stupid it would be. Pin them. I tried this with some of my models, and they ended up face down after a couple weeks
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May 27, 2016 19:37
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Yeast posted:From memory Vallejo is a little tougher for Americans for some reason. The Hobby Lobby near me has an okayish but hardly complete stock of Vallejo paint. Although depending on one's political principles some goons won't step foot in a HL.
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May 27, 2016 19:49
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big_g posted:Last pictures I'll post but here are some shots in daylight of the yellow marines. These are awesome. I plan on doing an HH Imperial Fists army as well, and I hope they look as good as yours.
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May 27, 2016 20:05
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big_g posted:Last pictures I'll post but here are some shots in daylight of the yellow marines. I really hope you go on to do more of these dudes. These are really well done.
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May 27, 2016 20:31
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big_g posted:Last pictures I'll post but here are some shots in daylight of the yellow marines. Your yellow is awesome, and I really dig the look of these guys. I think they're a little low contrast though; the armor banding all being the same yellow kind of loses some of the detail and something to break up that swathe of yellow would make the figure more visually interesting. Right now the upper body looks great and the legs and arms just look 80-90% there. Keep it up though, that's a great yellow!
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May 27, 2016 20:50
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Couple quick questions! I have this mini from Reaper and I'm trying to strip the paint off of but the primer is really fuckin stuck on there. I used white Rust-Oleum spray paint primer, and denatured alcohol to strip the paint. In the places where I can reach the paint it's easy to scrape off, but in the little recesses and details of the mini I'm having a real hard time getting it clean. Toothbrush doesn't do anything. I'm considering just grabbing a fine sewing needle and going to town but I'm worried that'll damage the mini since it's not an especially hard metal. Any suggestions? Just use mineral spirits for cleaning varnish off brushes? I'm not sure how the various poo poo out there can potentially damage synthetic/natural brush fibers.
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May 27, 2016 21:34
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Have you tried acetone (nail polish remover)? It's probably the most effective thing at stripping paint off of metal. Don't use it on plastic though, since it'll melt the plastic. (Not sure about what it'll do to resin or Bonesium.)
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May 27, 2016 22:01
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I did a couple days ago but didn't leave it it longer than an hour since I'm not sure how long is safe for the mini to soak for. Should I just dunk it in acetone for a week?
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May 27, 2016 22:44
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sugar free jazz posted:I did a couple days ago but didn't leave it it longer than an hour since I'm not sure how long is safe for the mini to soak for. Should I just dunk it in acetone for a week?
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May 27, 2016 23:02
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Does anyone use one of those ultrasonic cleaning thingys for stripping minis?
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May 27, 2016 23:09
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Signal posted:Pin them. I tried this with some of my models, and they ended up face down after a couple weeks Thanks for helping me avert disaster!
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May 27, 2016 23:42
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sugar free jazz posted:Couple quick questions! Usually I get the majority of the paint off with denatured alcohol, and then for all the paint still present in the recesses I use a solution which here is sold as "brush cleaner for acrylics". Its 50% xylene, 25% ethyl acetate, 25% isobutanol, and its the motherfuckin holy grail of (metal) miniature paint striping. 30 minutes in this and all paint jumps off the figure. I just run over it with a nail brush and really just 2-3 strokes from all sides is more than enough to remove all paint, and leave you with a shining figure that looks just like new. As I only use it after the denatured alcohol took care of most of the paint, a 100ml bottle has been enough to clean 70-80 figures, and still have lots of it left. I'm pretty sure however that this solution eats plastic the same way as it eats paint.
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May 28, 2016 00:01
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sugar free jazz posted:I did a couple days ago but didn't leave it it longer than an hour since I'm not sure how long is safe for the mini to soak for. Should I just dunk it in acetone for a week? Overnight is usually enough in my experience, but you can soak metal minis forever, essentially.
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May 28, 2016 00:12
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big_g posted:Last pictures I'll post but here are some shots in daylight of the yellow marines. i dont even post in this thread or paint much anymore, but that yellow is fantastic looking man, good stuff
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May 28, 2016 00:49
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I painted a troll dude wielding a bazooka. I don't think much else needs said, there. 
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May 28, 2016 03:01
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GoodBee posted:Does anyone use one of those ultrasonic cleaning thingys for stripping minis? I have! They work fairly well at saving a bit of soaking time; brushing after a soak is still recommended, though. (I haven't used mine to strip any minis in a while; I mostly use it with a tank of 50/50 Windex/distilled water to clean my airbrush.)
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May 28, 2016 03:52
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   An old Warhammer Fantasy Paymaster model from Dogs of War. Specifically, Mydas the Mean. Painting him up for a mordheim campaign. Unfortunately, my camera is bad and my lighting is worse, but I did some interesting things with color shadings to make it look like his cloak and sash and turban cloths are shimmery and look different colors in different light. I've ordered in a light box kit to try and start taking better pictures, so hopefully the effect will be more visible next time I take a picture of this guy.
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May 28, 2016 03:58
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 Painted this 'lil dude up last night. He's a Warmachine Idrian Skirmisher. I like his color scheme - Lots of earthy browns, because he's a guerilla fighter from the desert, but his red and black skirt ties him into the color scheme of the rest of my army. Also, it turns out that he's wearing poofy pants which are stuffed into his boots, and his knees are not bare like I thought when I started painting him. So now he's wearing weird flesh colored pants, I guess. I feel like my painting is improving pretty rapidly, especially when I take my time. I'm still not satisfied, but it's nice to see some obvious progress. I've yet to work up the guts to paint eyes, but I'm getting there.
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May 28, 2016 13:48
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May be of interest to the thread, GW are relasing a new range of metallics, glossy washes and 'gem' glazes - https://www.games-workshop.com/en-G...cat440136a-flat
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May 28, 2016 14:54
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Zark the Damned posted:May be of interest to the thread, GW are relasing a new range of metallics, glossy washes and 'gem' glazes - https://www.games-workshop.com/en-G...cat440136a-flat I'm kinda interested in those gem paints, though I'm not sure they're glazes, it says they're 'gel paints' whatever that means.
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May 28, 2016 15:04
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Those are pretty neat, but I wonder if by gel they just mean a very thick fluid like tamiya clears. And if those new metallics are like their recent golds, they're going to be awesome.
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May 28, 2016 15:15
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