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It's nice to see that they are finally getting into the base game. Unfortunately, they're using the terrible Sector Imperalis designs. Are they floors? Are they walls? Nobody knows!
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May 28, 2016 15:38
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So I tried out that Distress Crackle Rock Candy paint for ice effects on my bases for Frostgrave. Here's the result.   Some random thoughts on it: This is just a normal lipped base. I'm not sure how it would work on bases that aren't lipped, since the goo will kind of spread out. I need to tweak the wash so it's not as deep a blue. More of a turquoise would be ideal. Before applying the Distress goo, I painted the base a sky blue. I think next time a pale grey might be better.
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May 28, 2016 16:55
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Geisladisk posted:
I like him. I didn't notice the fleshpants until you said anything. If it bothers you then hit them with another, slightly darker wash. I don't always bother painting eyes on my troopers. It's not really noticeable on the table. Characters and solos get a little more effort, depending on the sculpt.
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May 28, 2016 17:19
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About 15 or so years ago I was into painting Warhammer figures, but I wasn't great at it. Mostly drybrushing stuff, and while it was certainly fine for playing on the table, I never truly looked at it with any pride. Last year I picked up a paint brush for the first time since then, and had a go at some of the Imperial Assault miniatures (mostly thanks to watching some of the Sorastro series on Youtube). They turned out well enough that a friend of mine asked if I'd be interested in painting up a couple Space Wolves figures. He wants them as close to the picture on the packaging, so I didn't have a lot of room to get creative, but I figure that's actually a good thing since this is the first time I've painted for someone other than myself. First up is Ulrik The Slayer:     I don't have a good camera or a light box, so I was fiddling with the settings, apologies for the image qualities. Overall I'm really happy with how it turned out. I did most of the painting prior to assembling, and the only part where that was an issue was on the cloak because it comes in two parts, which is a horrible design decision on GW's part, but whatever. I was going to do a bit more to highlight the stitching on the inside of the cloak, but I had already spent far far far too many hours on this model considering that I was only charging 20 bucks. Still, it's on the best paint jobs I've ever done and while I'm sure I could have gotten away with doing a much more basic job, my friend was floored with how nice the final product turned out. I'm hoping to get started on the next model, Wolf Lord Krom, sometime this week.
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May 29, 2016 05:09
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Does anyone have good examples/inspiration for jungle bases? I'm starting to plan out how I want to do my bases for my Kukulkani, but they aren't coming together like I'd hoped. The theme is "Mad Max-style wasteland being rapidly terraformed into jungle", so I've got lots of skulls/corpses, mechanical junk, brass etch foliage, and static grass. The foliage is my biggest issue, since I want it to look appropriately jungley while avoiding the dreaded "I just glued some aquarium plants to my bases" look.
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May 29, 2016 08:26
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I think the best way to avoid them looking like aquarium plants is to give them a subtle coat of paint. Even a couple washes on the center of the leaves/stem and light drybrush should be enough. For inspiration, find a Buffalo Chicken post and click the question mark.
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May 29, 2016 08:43
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I believe you can get to scale leaves made from treated seed husks or something. Get some of those and some wire of your choice, almost instant vines on the floor. Also consider the green Citadel texture paint. I know it's more expensive than sand etc, but the scale of the beads is spot on for ground texture..
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May 29, 2016 08:44
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Well, I already have brass etch foliage as mentioned, which is a much better scale than most aquarium plants. So far, the hard part is in putting it all together in a way that a) looks natural, and b) doesn't spill way out over the edges. Sadly, most of BuffaloChicken's old Catachan pics appear to have vanished.
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May 29, 2016 08:54
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Avenging Dentist posted:Does anyone have good examples/inspiration for jungle bases? I'm starting to plan out how I want to do my bases for my Kukulkani, but they aren't coming together like I'd hoped. The theme is "Mad Max-style wasteland being rapidly terraformed into jungle", so I've got lots of skulls/corpses, mechanical junk, brass etch foliage, and static grass. The foliage is my biggest issue, since I want it to look appropriately jungley while avoiding the dreaded "I just glued some aquarium plants to my bases" look. Wash them and dullcote them to take the shine off. If you're really keen you could pick out some details like the stems or add some browned/yellowed edges to them maybe?
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May 29, 2016 11:02
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I did a quick post on moving my citadel paints into better bottles if anyone has thought of doing it before: http://lethemonster.blogspot.co.uk/2016/05/reviving-and-repotting.html verdict is two thumbs up, covered in paint.
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May 29, 2016 13:20
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Lethemonster posted:I did a quick post on moving my citadel paints into better bottles if anyone has thought of doing it before: How important is it to use distilled water instead of tap
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May 29, 2016 13:25
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Big McHuge posted:About 15 or so years ago I was into painting Warhammer figures, but I wasn't great at it. Mostly drybrushing stuff, and while it was certainly fine for playing on the table, I never truly looked at it with any pride. Last year I picked up a paint brush for the first time since then, and had a go at some of the Imperial Assault miniatures (mostly thanks to watching some of the Sorastro series on Youtube). They turned out well enough that a friend of mine asked if I'd be interested in painting up a couple Space Wolves figures. He wants them as close to the picture on the packaging, so I didn't have a lot of room to get creative, but I figure that's actually a good thing since this is the first time I've painted for someone other than myself. For $20 the dude got a bargain. That's a nice job, and real neat
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May 29, 2016 13:29
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signalnoise posted:How important is it to use distilled water instead of tap I'd imagine that depends on your local tap.
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May 29, 2016 13:42
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I'm painting noted chill pilot with the callsign "Wampa"  Messed up on the pink background splash. I originally had it more textured with moist but not throughly diluted paint, and then I started blending the lighter pink and off-white on top by accident. Woops. Earlier shot: 
Chill la Chill fucked around with this message at 17:47 on May 29, 2016 |
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May 29, 2016 17:43
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Lethemonster posted:I did a quick post on moving my citadel paints into better bottles if anyone has thought of doing it before: Where'd you get the dropper bottles?
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May 29, 2016 17:49
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I bought these: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00MNBO2HQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Citadel pots are 12ml and P3 ones 17ml so I went for the 20ml ones.
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May 29, 2016 17:56
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I enjoy reading your blog, Le monster. I liked the posts about airbrushing since I'm getting into it soon.
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May 29, 2016 18:03
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GoodBee posted:I'd imagine that depends on your local tap. Yeah, water nerd here, certain areas have more trace metals and minerals in the tap water that might interact with various pigments. I've never had it happen, but a friend on Salt Spring Island used his sulfur-rich well water to paint some minis, which now smell faintly like eggs. Chill la Chill posted:I'm painting noted chill pilot with the callsign "Wampa" If I were an imperial pilot, he'd be my go-to guy for where to find space weed.
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May 29, 2016 18:08
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Crying into my Charadon Granite to get it to reconstitute into a usable paint
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May 29, 2016 18:22
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Finished up a Bloodbowl team for a customer.          I've no idea what company made the Lizardmen here, but their quality is...not so great. A bunch of flash and hard chunks of pewter, with some things not being fully cast at all. Some details are soft where they don't need to be, and the scales are pretty ugly. I'm happy with the overall finished product, but it wasn't an enjoyable experience. I also got a semi-new camera off a fellow goon, and the quality is much better than my old camera. I need to futz around with my lights to get rid of the harsher shadows, possibly getting a third light to shine from above.
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May 29, 2016 19:30
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Once upon a time I painted 3000 pts of space marines, then glued on basing material. Is there a relatively easy way to paint all that without having to be careful? Usually I prime my models with the bases down already then paint all together. This seems like it is going to suck and I'm going to get basecoat brown all over everybody. Maybe there are no shortcuts here. Everything I can think of (remove models, paint, re-glue/mask everything/just leave unpainted) has serious drawbacks...
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May 29, 2016 20:26
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Lethemonster, thanks again for the color list you used on your screamers! I applied them to a Hydra for this month's Oath thread and I'm super happy with how it's coming along. (I'll cross-post when he's done.) It's also going to see use on Cold Ones and Corsair cloaks, which contrasts and complements my my usually drab and natural-ish color schemes.
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May 29, 2016 21:56
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Is finecast safe to paint strip?
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May 29, 2016 22:46
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I've started rebottling my new Citadel paints and it really does highlight how little paint you get
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May 30, 2016 00:29
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Painted two more Guild Ball minis this weekend. Tower of the Masons (who is, amusingly, a literal Mason) and the mercenary Decimate.  I'm pretty happy with these two overall, though each has bits that didn't come out well. Decimate's leather boots/gloves/mantle didn't work with the ink wash I gave them, so I might redo that. Tower meanwhile I like how his skin came out, but I'm a bit dissatisfied with his face, but I know I'm being overly critical of myself. Of course, the merciless camera reveals so many tiny flaws.  My team is coming along. I'm only missing three or four players and two of those haven't arrived yet.  Tempted to redo some of the others though. I've grown disatisfied with the blue on everyone before Tower. Even basic two-color highlighting looks better than the wash the others have.
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May 30, 2016 02:53
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signalnoise posted:I've started rebottling my new Citadel paints and it really does highlight how little paint you get Honestly I'm doubting that you even get 12ml and wonder if they've gotten away with just saying the pots are 12ml but the contents aren't. Depotting a P3 paint fills up my dropper bottle but a full citadel paint goes up to half, less if its any that dried a bit. I've started putting a ball bearing in every bottle that has a new citadel paint in because they separate like hell. My Rakarth flesh started separating after a couple of hours in its new dropper home.
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May 30, 2016 08:31
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Lethemonster posted:Honestly I'm doubting that you even get 12ml and wonder if they've gotten away with just saying the pots are 12ml but the contents aren't. Yeah I've seen it pointed out before that the pots are 12ml but the paint content is about 10ml. I should measure it, I have a bunch of empty Citadel pots from my dropper bottle swaps. Also, you don't mention using stainless steel ball bearings, so I hope you did that, don't want your paints ruined from rust.
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May 30, 2016 11:28
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Picking up an old Mordheim Undead warband, need to paint about 10 zombies, a necromancer, a vampire and some wolves. I have no paints, so need some good color and brand recommendations, I am fine with paying for Citadel paints, but not opposed to Vallejo if they are of equal quality(seems they are). I watched Sorastro's Zombie painting tutorial, so I think i will be using his awesome Army Painter quickshade method, and finishing all my models with the Testor's Dullcote. Im really just looking for a nice starter set of paints for the dark dank city of Mordheim.
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May 30, 2016 13:55
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always be closing posted:Picking up an old Mordheim Undead warband, need to paint about 10 zombies, a necromancer, a vampire and some wolves. I have no paints, so need some good color and brand recommendations, I am fine with paying for Citadel paints, but not opposed to Vallejo if they are of equal quality(seems they are). I'm more of a fan of Reaper's paints (not least of which because I got a ton of them in a trade), so if you can get access to them I recommend looking over their triad selection. Off the bat, Vampiric Skintone, Undead Skin, and Dark Elf Skin triads would work well for zombies. Starting off with the darker colors, you can drybrush the other two over them and then finish off with the quickshade to get a set of models done very quickly, and with minimal skill investment.
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May 30, 2016 14:24
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 Asking for advice here. Should I use green or another color to fill in the B11 at the bottom? I'm thinking something like cubism just to fill the inside and make the B11 more defined. I'm thinking of blending in the opposite direction, so the dark to light in corners opposite to the red one. What color would be best for the eyes? Should I make it more black? The brown looks a bit goofy but that might be due to making it too large, but my consideration there is also making it look distinct from further away for game viewing purposes. Add yellow somewhere to the blue or just highlight the blue? I haven't finished filling in the basecoat yet since I'm undecided about adding yellow in between the ice fragments.
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May 30, 2016 15:34
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always be closing posted:Picking up an old Mordheim Undead warband, need to paint about 10 zombies, a necromancer, a vampire and some wolves. I have no paints, so need some good color and brand recommendations, I am fine with paying for Citadel paints, but not opposed to Vallejo if they are of equal quality(seems they are). Citadel, P3, Vallejo and Reaper are all good paints. There are probably a couple more nice brands I'm forgetting too. If I were starting buying paints from scratch, I'd probably go with paints that come in dropper bottles. What I actually do is buy whatever paint I think looks kind of cool. If you're matching a tutorial, you can use the exact paints their using if you want to match. I think that would be a good way to start painting from scratch.
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May 30, 2016 17:04
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GoodBee posted:If I were starting buying paints from scratch, I'd probably go with paints that come in dropper bottles. Yeah, after Lethemonster's tutorial I'm tempted to pick up some dropper bottles to house my grown collection of paints I'm picking up now that I'm getting back into painting.
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May 30, 2016 17:07
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I've got a bunch of empty dropper bottles but so far I've only repotted my P3 matte medium because it's original dropper bottle got messed up. I've also got one for plain water and one with watered down dish soap for washes. I'm torn on a lot of my paints whether I want to repot them or just replace them with an equivalent Vallejo paint in the future.
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May 30, 2016 17:18
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GoodBee posted:I've got a bunch of empty dropper bottles but so far I've only repotted my P3 matte medium because it's original dropper bottle got messed up. I've also got one for plain water and one with watered down dish soap for washes. Ive just repotted quite a few paints that I thought were dead and saved myself a nice lump of cash, as well as making them easier to use. I spent a lot less money moving them across than I would have replacing all of them, and I'm always on the side of preventing waste :P
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May 30, 2016 17:49
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GoodBee posted:Citadel, P3, Vallejo and Reaper are all good paints. There are probably a couple more nice brands I'm forgetting too. Scale75 is another option. With all the talk about Citadel not filling their bottles I figure I should mention that Scale75 fills their dropper bottles completely. As in, they are under pressure and you'll lose a few drops when you break their seal with a needle. They are so full you can't even shake them properly before you open them up, there is no room for the paint to go anywhere. I've only tried the metallics, but they are wonderful. Has anyone tried their other colors?
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May 30, 2016 19:34
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KPC_Mammon posted:Scale75 is another option. With all the talk about Citadel not filling their bottles I figure I should mention that Scale75 fills their dropper bottles completely. As in, they are under pressure and you'll lose a few drops when you break their seal with a needle. They are so full you can't even shake them properly before you open them up, there is no room for the paint to go anywhere. The normal colours I've used (not many) are better than the metallics, which are thin and separate like crazy. Well, the white isn't great, but what white is?
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May 30, 2016 19:51
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sassassin posted:which are thin and separate like crazy. This is true. I have to mix whatever is on my palette whenever I load up my brush. They look better and provide better coverage than the P3 and vallejo metallics I was using before, but I guess that isn't high praise.
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May 30, 2016 19:56
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"Looking better" is really the highest praise you could give to paints.
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May 30, 2016 20:01
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Avenging Dentist posted:"Looking better" is really the highest praise you could give to paints. "Easy to use" imo. Rainy Grey qualifies as that for me. Moonstone Alchemy and Old Copper do not.
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May 30, 2016 20:11
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sassassin posted:The normal colours I've used (not many) are better than the metallics, which are thin and separate like crazy. KPC_Mammon posted:This is true. I have to mix whatever is on my palette whenever I load up my brush. Weird. Mine don't separate on my palette at all. They really need a black/brown undercoat if you want them to cover properly though. It's good paint IMO, the gold set has pretty much replaced Vallejo's Liquid Gold for me.
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May 30, 2016 20:46
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