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What type of plants are you interested in growing? This poll is closed. |
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| Perennials! |
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142 | 20.91% |
| Annuals! |
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30 | 4.42% |
| Woody plants! |
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62 | 9.13% |
| Succulent plants! |
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171 | 25.18% |
| Tropical plants! |
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60 | 8.84% |
| Non-vascular plants are the best! |
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31 | 4.57% |
| Screw you, I'd rather eat them! |
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183 | 26.95% |
| Total: | 679 votes | ||
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We have a collection of pitcher plants. This first one is 7 years old and about two and a half feet tall. Pretty cool it has lasted so long.  Some little guys. My wife takes them into the bar she works at to control the fruit flies but brings them home every few months to kinda rejuvenate them    They really thrive when they come home. Those flower type things only show up every few years.
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May 10, 2016 00:08
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| # ? May 16, 2024 18:52 |
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So my Daturas that i repotted are growing better than expected. When i repotted them, at first they lost some turgor so i was worried that i messed up their roots somehow during the transplant. They recovered, and the last couple of weeks have been warm, sunny and frost free, so i put them outside and they seem to be thriving. Neat, i collected the seeds in Portugal and now they are growing well here in Sweden. Might not grow as big as they do where i collected the seeds, but let's hope they make a decent sized bush before the season is over.   Can't wait until they develop flowers.
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May 11, 2016 01:08
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Fitzy Fitz posted:I think it could lead to rot down the line, but there isn't much you can do if it's at the base of the tree. You might want to throw mosquito dunks in it if it's full of larvae.
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May 11, 2016 19:23
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sporklift posted:Those flower type things only show up every few years. I always thought it was hilarious that carnivorous plants flower. "Nah, little insects, this part won't eat you, honest!"
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May 15, 2016 02:11
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Two plant-related questions: 1: Is there a good way to separate rocks from soil? When we moved into our house, we had to have a backyard septic tank removed, and they dirt they used to fill in the hole has lots of rocks, some of which are as large as bricks. I've been trying to prepare this spot for grass seed/sod, but the huge numbers of rocks at and just below the surface is making it very tedious so far. 2. There is sizable patch of Bugleweed (Ajuga) growing in the backyard. I think it looks great, but it will spread and I'd like to move it from where it is to an isolated corner of the front yard that is just a big hill and is a giant pain in the rear end to mow. Are there any other kinds of plants that will spread out by themselves and have a color that compliments the bugleweed? Something that will come back every year and have low maintenance is a must. A plus if it will spread out on its own as well. Thanks.
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May 21, 2016 20:59
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Alpine Mustache posted:Two plant-related questions: Search for soil or compost sifter/screen designs but as usual: cheap, easy, fast - pick two. Most of the DIY versions are a wood frame, various sizes of hardware cloth, and hopefully something to suspend the frame making it easier to agitate. I've built one that sits on top of my wheelbarrow and runs in a track on rollerblade wheels. I've seen a lot of variations of suspending the frame with rope so that it can swing. There's also the kind that sit on the ground at 45 degree angle, you toss shovelfuls of soil on it and gravity does the work sifting. If you want to get a little fancier there are mini-trommel sifters too. How about dutch white clover to go with the bugleweed?
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May 21, 2016 21:26
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Pardon the crappy cellphone pic. I've been hearing that you don't really need specific light bulbs that are labeled for plants to actually grow plants, so I decided to give it a test. Amaranth Hopi Red (which I had received as an extra gift from a goon here!), and Radish French Breakfast are growing pretty heartily under some cheap LED bulbs I had picked up at the hardware store. So long as you mix both daylight bulbs and warm white bulbs, that should cover plants' growth requirements for light in the blue and red wavelength. Now that I know those bulbs can support photosynthesis, I'm little closer to my goal of having a cute spot on my desk where I can put my African Violets at, and watch them bloom. If it helps, the bulbs I used were a Sylvania Ultra High Output LED 65 W equivalent (9 W actual use) daylight floodlight, and a Utilitech 60 W equivalent (9 W actual use) Warm White LED bulb.
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May 22, 2016 00:05
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Cpt.Wacky posted:soil or compost sifter/screen designs Also known as a "riddle". 
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May 22, 2016 03:08
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Could someone please identify this plant? A bunch of volunteers have popped up in various places in my yard since last year.
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May 30, 2016 01:21
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oh hay, I have a fuckton of those. Some kinda of weed?
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May 30, 2016 16:00
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Erodium, I think.
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May 31, 2016 20:14
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EagerSleeper posted:Pardon the crappy cellphone pic. Yeah there's no reason you couldn't use any normal type of light bulb as a grow light. I guess I wouldn't really recommend incandescents because of how hot and inefficient they are but it's a moot point since they don't really make them anymore. Special grow bulbs are only necessary if you've absolutely got to have maximum efficiency for your clandestine weed grow and/or apocalypse bunker. Even then I'd be really interested in seeing a semi-scientific comparison looking at how much they actually affected growth. If you just want to keep stuff alive/happy in a room with no windows or during the winter then a standard flourescent or LED bulb is gonna be just fine.
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Jun 2, 2016 14:05
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Can anybody tell me what these guys are hanging out on my (brand new, struggling) flamingo willow? I've never seen them before and am wondering if they're the cause of my woes or if they may be feasting on the cause. I presume the former. 
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Jun 2, 2016 19:12
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Who wants to play name that plant? First, I have this gigantic bush thing growing in a shady corner of my yard (this is the SE corner of my yard, with the fence blocking most of the southern light). Nonetheless it has flourished, and I want to know how I can control it:  It was planted intentionally but was much smaller when it was planted. That fence is six feet tall for reference. Second is a much smaller bush that's on the south side of my yard in full sun. Trying to figure out what it is and where I can move it so I can turn that part of my yard into a garden.   Assuming we're talking about the USDA plant hardiness chart, I'm in zone 4b.
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Jun 2, 2016 22:38
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FISHMANPET posted:Second is a much smaller bush that's on the south side of my yard in full sun. Trying to figure out what it is and where I can move it so I can turn that part of my yard into a garden. That looks like a spirea, one of the yellower ones like Goldflame.
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Jun 2, 2016 22:46
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Melicious posted:Can anybody tell me what these guys are hanging out on my (brand new, struggling) flamingo willow? I've never seen them before and am wondering if they're the cause of my woes or if they may be feasting on the cause. I presume the former. Those are katydids of some sort, which may or may not be beneficial. Someone in the critterquest thread might be able to ID the specific genus or species.
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Jun 2, 2016 23:02
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Guys, help my dumb rear end save my tree  This cherry tree was planted by the city in my sidewalk about 6 years ago. It's always done fine until last fall when it seemed to lose it's leaves a little earlier than normal. This year the leaves came back much less than in the past and now it looks like this:  Pretty beat. So far I've built a planter to keep dogs from peeing on it, added some fresh soil to the dried up rock pile that was there before, and bought some tree fertilizer but haven't used it yet because I'm afraid of doing more damage than good. I'm almost certainly guilty of underwatering it in the past but it always seemed to be fine. It came with that water bag when they planted it, if I fill it up it seems to water it for a couple days - should I just refill when empty? How much is too much? Anything else I can do to turn it around? I am an idiot with anything plant related. Please helppppp (sorry if this is the complete wrong place for this)
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Jun 7, 2016 00:29
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Extremely unlikely you'd be able to overwater a tree. After six years the roots should be established well enough that you probably don't need to water unless you're in a drought. Once every week or two should be plenty unless it's been really dry, then once every few days will be good. It probably has some sort of disease. Take good pictures of the tree as a whole and close ups of any sick looking leaves and take them to your local extension office and ask if they have or know anyone who might be able to diagnose. Or see if you can contact a local arborist and pay them to come take a look. I'd probably hold off on the fertilizer until you talk to someone who knows what they're doing but if you do apply it it's pretty unlikely to hurt it. Just make sure you follow the instructions and DO NOT use too much. my kinda ape fucked around with this message at 00:46 on Jun 7, 2016 |
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Jun 7, 2016 00:43
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ghetto wormhole posted:Extremely unlikely you'd be able to overwater a tree. After six years the roots should be established well enough that you probably don't need to water unless you're in a drought. Once every week or two should be plenty unless it's been really dry, then once every few days will be good. Thanks! I'll try to contact the city and see if they'll send someone out, otherwise I'll shell out for an arborist.
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Jun 7, 2016 00:55
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TACTICAL SANDALS posted:Thanks! I'll try to contact the city and see if they'll send someone out, otherwise I'll shell out for an arborist. I would definitely talk to the city first. Who knows, if you do it yourself, you might step on the toes an overzealous civil servant who will make your life a living hell.
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Jun 7, 2016 02:23
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kid sinister posted:I would definitely talk to the city first. Who knows, if you do it yourself, you might step on the toes an overzealous civil servant who will make your life a living hell. This is Philadelphia so that would almost certainly be the case lol. I'll let you guys know how the tree makes out and how many bribes it takes
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Jun 7, 2016 03:16
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TACTICAL SANDALS posted:Guys, help my dumb rear end save my tree Probably not. Since it's been a slow fade, I would wager that the city people who installed it didn't adequately care for the root ball when it was planted, neglecting something like removing all traces of the canvas or pruning away any circling roots (as they grow, they prevent other roots from growing, and eventually strangle the tree). It also could have been planted too shallowly and not having enough room for decent growth.
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Jun 7, 2016 13:30
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That planting hole is really small. The soil needs more surface area to cycle oxygen and such. I don't know if the planter will interfere with that or not. And I've never worked with water bags but I can't imagine that one is necessary. Wouldn't those promote fungal growth on the trunk? Especially over a period of 6 years? The problem might just be that they planted a crappy tree in a crappy hole. e: urban trees are usually planted in mineral soil (dried up rock piles) anyway, so don't worry about that. Organic soils would have to be replenished regularly as they break down. Fitzy Fitz fucked around with this message at 14:33 on Jun 7, 2016 |
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Jun 7, 2016 14:26
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Thanks to the tropical storm here, I figured out my neighbor installed a new drain that runs directly into my property. Specifically flooding my little moringa tree. Anyone know how sensitive to flooding moringa olifera is? It was in 6 inches of water several hours ago and probably was all night. Any thoughts?
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Jun 7, 2016 14:52
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Trees can handle a single flooding event fine. The problem would be if your neighbor's drain continues to keep your tree submerged regularly.
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Jun 7, 2016 15:22
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robotindisguise posted:Thanks to the tropical storm here, I figured out my neighbor installed a new drain that runs directly into my property. Specifically flooding my little moringa tree. Anyone know how sensitive to flooding moringa olifera is? It was in 6 inches of water several hours ago and probably was all night. Any thoughts? This tree wasn't next to your house, was it? 6 inches of standing water next to a foundation can cause problems too... Regardless, How hard would it be to correct the drainage?
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Jun 7, 2016 22:58
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kid sinister posted:Regardless, How hard would it be to correct the drainage? It's about 10 feet from the house. There was no drainage issue for the last 3 years, but a few months ago neighbor had a big load of fill dirt brought in...didn't know what any of it was for, but I peeked over my fence this morning (due to the ridiculous flooding) and found out he raised the ground and he added a drain that diverts probably 3/4ths of the runoff from his roof into what used to be a swale along the property line. Not sure if I explained that right, but there used to be a big flat area between houses. He turned his side of the swale into a hill and rerouted all of his gutters on the West, South, and East sides of his home to run through this new hill and empty out a few inches from my fence aimed directly into my yard.
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Jun 8, 2016 02:45
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Your neighbor sounds like a real rear end in a top hat.
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Jun 8, 2016 02:48
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robotindisguise posted:It's about 10 feet from the house. There was no drainage issue for the last 3 years, but a few months ago neighbor had a big load of fill dirt brought in...didn't know what any of it was for, but I peeked over my fence this morning (due to the ridiculous flooding) and found out he raised the ground and he added a drain that diverts probably 3/4ths of the runoff from his roof into what used to be a swale along the property line. Plug the drain with concrete
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Jun 8, 2016 11:42
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I called the city and took a bunch of photos for evidence. His drain is in my property, so I glued a PVC fitting over the end, took more photos, and mailed him a certified letter saying not to touch, along with verbally telling his wife. He would have needed approval from the city and an inspection for what he did. Any reccomendations for part shade ppantd and vines to grow in hanging baskets on a covered porch? Florida 9a.
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Jun 8, 2016 14:31
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robotindisguise posted:Any reccomendations for part shade ppantd and vines to grow in hanging baskets on a covered porch? Florida 9a. I really like Fuchsia for both hanging baskets and shady corners. Glad to hear you don't have to really fight your shithead neighbor about that drainage problem.
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Jun 9, 2016 18:32
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robotindisguise posted:I called the city and took a bunch of photos for evidence. His drain is in my property, so I glued a PVC fitting over the end, took more photos, and mailed him a certified letter saying not to touch, along with verbally telling his wife. He would have needed approval from the city and an inspection for what he did. Please update this thread or start one in E/N with the results. This sounds like a Hatfield & McCoy situation just waiting to happen.
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Jun 9, 2016 20:51
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Shame Boner posted:I really like Fuchsia for both hanging baskets and shady corners. Glad to hear you don't have to really fight your shithead neighbor about that drainage problem. Looks awesome. Is there a variety you're aware of that handles the heat? I'll have to order from somewhere as my local nursery has never stocked it.
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Jun 9, 2016 21:51
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robotindisguise posted:Looks awesome. Is there a variety you're aware of that handles the heat? I'll have to order from somewhere as my local nursery has never stocked it. I've always had cultivars of Fuchsia Magellanica which I understand is perennial in Florida (I'm in zone 6a where it's considered annual) and should survive the heat so long as it's sheltered during midday. I put mine where they get strong morning and afternoon light and they love life. They like peaty, rich soil so your average sandy Florida soil won't cut it. Edit: Quoted from the Clemson University Extension page about fuchsias: Generally, the orange- or red-flowered fuchsias are more heat-tolerant than the white or blue ones. The following are some of the most popular heat-tolerant fuchsias: ‘Constance,’ ‘Autumnale,’ ‘Daisy Bell,’ ‘Orange Drops,’ ‘Cardinal,’ ‘Gartenmeister Bonstedt,’ ‘Checkerboard,’ ‘Machu Picchu,’ ‘Billy Green,’ ‘First Love,’ ‘Santa Cruz,’ ‘Chang,’ ‘Countess of Aberdeen,’ ‘Swingtime,’ ‘Eternal Flame,’ ‘Sacramento Bells,’ ‘Winston Churchill,’ ‘Buttercup,’ ‘California,’ ‘Southgate,’ ‘Golden Gate’ and F. magellanica ‘Aurea’. For heat tolerance, consider cultivars of F. magellanica. Hybrids of F. triphylla (make up the Triphylla Group of fuchsias and include ‘Gartenmeister Bonstedt’) are another important group of heat-tolerant fuchsias. Big Nubbins fucked around with this message at 12:53 on Jun 10, 2016 |
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Jun 9, 2016 23:31
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robotindisguise posted:Looks awesome. Is there a variety you're aware of that handles the heat? I'll have to order from somewhere as my local nursery has never stocked it. Fuchsias are from the tropics. They can handle heat. Well, there are so called hardy fuchsias that supposedly survive a bit farther north. Yes, I am still bitter about them.
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Jun 10, 2016 19:16
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Hello friends! I am usually mainly a veggie gardener, but I love love love trees and I am finally in a house where I can plant a tree. Not a huge one mind you. Something that can live under powerlines like a hedge maple or a locust tree of some kind. And yet for all of my love of trees and my always carrying Mary Watt's Tree Finder book and volunteering to take care of street trees, I now find myself unable to choose! I need help brainstorming. Please help me brainstorm fun tree ideas! Details: Western PA Power line about ummm 20-25 feet up, tree will not be directly below it but kinda close. So tree can't be huge. Tree will live near a little patio thinger AND not too far from a veg garden, so I'm ruling out linden, which IIRC tend to cultivate aphids who drip honeydew all over the patio table and possibly hop over to my veggies. Good sun. Hell, great sun. I love to climb trees so climbability is a plus.
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Jun 11, 2016 03:01
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25 feet is really going to restrict the number of trees you could plant. Japanese maples and dogwoods come to mind. Maybe get a nice, big bush like a crepe myrtle?
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Jun 13, 2016 18:42
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Good morning garden goons. I made the mistake of planting a bunch of poo poo and not remembering what was planted where. Now it's time to do some weeding and I don't even know what is weed and what is wanted. I do know what I planted I am just hosed for finding out what any part other than the flowers of these plants looks like. Anyone have any good sources for such a thing? LIST OF poo poo I HAVE PLANTED: Green Amaranthus (Heirloom) Amaranthus Lupine Gladiolus Bells Of Ireland Giant Peony Poppy Giant Afghan Poppy Oriental Poppy Black Swan Poppy Chinese Lanterns Generic Orange Butterfly Bush Poor Man's Weather Glass Catnip I'm on my phone, so coding in 27 images worth of unidentified plants isn't a realistic option at the moment. I'm not so lazy that I won't link to an Imgur album though Any help or direction is appreciated. The only one I've figured out so far has been the poppies that are in cabbage stage so far. And from what I understand the peony poppy roughage looks tremendously different from the foliage of the other poppies I planted.
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Jun 16, 2016 23:49
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Poppy and gladiolus are the only things in there I've got experience with, and it sounds like you've got the poppies sorted out. I don't see anything in there that looks like gladiolus though. Gladioli look very similar to irises and tulips before they bloom, but they come up much later in the year, usually not blooming until August or so. I don't think any of mine have popped up yet. It would be difficult to mistake them for a weed in my opinion.
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Jun 17, 2016 03:20
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| # ? May 16, 2024 18:52 |
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Gladiolus have long, bladed foliage (that's where the name comes from, the latin gladius for sword) and since they're bulbs the foliage starts out big. Unless you actually planted from seed, in which case anything goes. Lupines are in the same family as peas so their foliage looks vaguely like peas when they're young, only the leaflets are arranged more in a circle at the end of the petiole instead of along its length. Catnip has leaves that resemble mint in shape, with serrated edges, but their leaves are softer and more downy, sometimes the down gives it a silvery sheen on the undersides. The leaves and stems will be arranged like all the other mints, leaves opposite each other on squarish stems. I know you say you have the poppy sorted, they're probably the easiest to spot on that list so that's not too surprising. Unfortunately I don't have experience with the others. Also, your album link appears broken to me.
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Jun 17, 2016 15:05
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