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Commodore_64 posted:I think the dies on that thing are hilariously undersized, was that connection overcrimped? Good job critiquing the wiring job. I've never seen any wiring done in AI that some other poster didn't like. There is something with wiring and AI that people have really strong opinions about it.
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May 26, 2016 17:11
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n8r posted:Good job critiquing the wiring job. I've never seen any wiring done in AI that some other poster didn't like. There is something with wiring and AI that people have really strong opinions about it. What's even better is it's his crimper and he's my brother. Haha.
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May 26, 2016 17:35
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Commodore_64 posted:I think the dies on that thing are hilariously undersized, was that connection overcrimped? Largest dies in the kit. We might need to make some (if we ever get the Mill working :p).
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May 26, 2016 17:36
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I dunno, it looks more to me like the lug (whether or not the manufacturer claims it fits that wire size) was too big, I see a lot of air around the conductor in the throat of the lug right before the crimp unless that's an incredibly thick wall. Crimp looks fine to me, I don't see any metal squeezed out where the two dies meet and that's not "compacted conductor" (AKA the manufacturer feeds it through some rollers to make the round strands not round anymore and thereby decrease the amount of air between/around them) cabling so I'd expect it to crush somewhat if you get a good crimp. I don't know whether Yellow Tool Manufacturer Incorporated LTD Importer of Fine Chinesium does a better job of labeling their crimp dies than Red Tool Manufacturer Incorporated LTD Importer of Fine Chinesium* does, but my red crimper just like that has the gauges marked on the dies all wrong. The largest dies it came with are marked 0 AWG and they actually do a really bang-up job of crimping lugs onto 4AWG. As for making different dies for it, if your set is like mine, it comes with dies all the way down to 14AWG, which shouldn't require a hydraulic crimper and is closer to being the right size for 18AWG or so, which REALLY shouldn't require a hydraulic crimper. My plan is to eventually mill my 14, 12, and 10AWG die sets down to make larger gauge die sets. * Red Tool Manufacturer Incorporated = HF, in this case. kastein fucked around with this message at 17:58 on May 26, 2016 |
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May 26, 2016 17:56
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See ^^^^ 
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May 26, 2016 18:01
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Oh no I triggered n8r! FWIW, I would run that crimp anyday as long as it passed a pull test. Would I do it a tiny bit differently? Yeah probably. Is it fine? Yes. As for your point about people nitpicking wiring on AI... I do this professionally, as in, it's my job, I design wiring harnesses. Our wiring standards at work are mostly based off of NASA STD 8739.4 and a few FAA ACs. And I've built custom harnesses for two different AI projects, neither of which has fallen apart, failed, or burned. But hey, you do you.
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May 26, 2016 18:10
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kastein posted:I dunno, it looks more to me like the lug (whether or not the manufacturer claims it fits that wire size) was too big, I see a lot of air around the conductor in the throat of the lug right before the crimp unless that's an incredibly thick wall. Crimp looks fine to me, I don't see any metal squeezed out where the two dies meet and that's not "compacted conductor" (AKA the manufacturer feeds it through some rollers to make the round strands not round anymore and thereby decrease the amount of air between/around them) cabling so I'd expect it to crush somewhat if you get a good crimp. YTM = RTM as far as I can tell. It has the same pointless 14/12/10AWG dies. The wire is 1/0. The terminal is a nice thick wall 1/0 and the wire fit very well into it- no air gap. It passed the monkey with a pair of pliers pull-test with flying colors. I would definitely up size the dies, as I did not like the bulge-out where the dies met on several crimps. For the price/application it's much nicer then my Blue Tool Manufacture hammer-crimper. the spyder fucked around with this message at 18:51 on May 26, 2016 |
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May 26, 2016 18:46
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I don't want to clutter up Spyder's thread too much but all the advice and recommendations are very much appreciated. Thanks for the love goons, I'm glad I can share this special little friend with people who know more about it than me. I know I've got something special here and don't want to gently caress it up. DefaultPeanut, I'm a little ways away from having this thing in "out for a rip" status. It'll happen, it's just a matter of time and money. Leica, unfortunately in BC I'll only legally be able to tint the rear glass. I've been thinking about doing that anyway since that is a pretty exposed area of the car and it would look better. I can probably get away with some light tint on the side windows but that adds to the "You can pull me over for this!" factor. It's probably a non-issue but for now I'm keeping this thing on the straight-and-narrow. The only sun damage I've noticed so far is that the plastic looks a little UV-eaten on the driver's side vent nearest to the window. It's parked under cover in the shade when its at home so sun-damage should hopefully not be an issue but when out and about I likely won't have that luxury. Any resources for preventative maintenance are appreciated, electrical or otherwise. As far as the window switches, the windows have apparently gotten slower over the years according to the family member who sold it to me and the dash clock doesn't seem to have power, so that is a sign that I should address the electrics, if only for my peace of mind. However, in spite of the clock not working, the idiot lights do work. The horn doesn't seem to have power but the headlights aren't showing any issues presently. That's about the extent of the "issues" I've noticed at the moment. I've only just picked this thing up as of Tuesday so I'm still getting to know the car. Skeletard fucked around with this message at 02:57 on May 27, 2016 |
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May 27, 2016 01:59
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Giving the dash regular treatments of 303 aerospace protectant will probably keep the UV damage to a minimum. It's worked wonders on a lot of Mazda plastics in my possession.
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May 27, 2016 02:22
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Skeletard posted:I don't want to clutter up Spyder's thread too much but all the advice and recommendations are very much appreciated. Thanks for the love goons, I'm glad I can share this special little friend with people who know more about it than me. I know I've got something special here and don't want to gently caress it up. DefaultPeanut, I'm a little ways away from having this thing in "out for a rip" status. It'll happen, it's just a matter of time and money. Make sure your high beams work, as i recall the horn and the high beam are both on the same cpu had have a tendancy to fail over time. Rx7club.com is a good resource for fc just stick to the archives for tech issues. The rest will make you want to burn your eyes out. DirkDonkeyroot fucked around with this message at 17:28 on May 27, 2016 |
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May 27, 2016 17:26
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Can confirm high beams work, so it's only the horn itself that's being a little odd. I'll do some homework and put the horn CPU on my list of things to look at. If it's just a matter of re- soldering some components on the PCB that's something I can handle; I've got a soldering iron and a solder-sucker available to me for that kind of work. Thanks again!
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May 28, 2016 01:22
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Feel free to ask questions! Rx7club is a great resource, just don't post. Haha.
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May 28, 2016 07:06
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This 94 MB is fighting me every last bit towards the end. The clutch slave blew out, the rebuilt transmission won't go into reverse, and the wiring... oh god the wiring.  Duct tape shift boot repair... ugh.  O_o  Well, from what I can tell the OEM ignition harness was hacked off and someones solution was to use a turbo timer harness. It's the wrong gauge wire and every time I even slightly pull on it, a wire slips out from improper crimps. Double ugh.  When I got the car, the key was broken off in the ignition. Both halves were at least there and it worked to move the car around. It finally bit me in the rear end when I went to attempt to power the ECU, turned the wheel and CLICK. It locked and the broken key no longer worked. #@$!!! Someone had been in there before, all the safety screws had slots derailed into them. There were also signs the lock was rekeyed. I tried for a good hour to get the broken key out, but it would not come out.  Added fuel and pre-mix.  I made it to the lock smith this morning. They were able to get the key out and my buddy at the Mazda dealer got two new keys made.  I ended up changing the diff fluid when I was adding the trans fluid. It was decent, no big chunks or chips. Should be good for another 30k.  I had to do something about the ignition wiring.  Not perfect, but 10x better then what was there.  Tomorrow I'm going to work on the following and if all goes well, I will attempt to start it. 1) Battery tray + mount 2) ECU mount 3) Reassemble the dash 4) Mount the AFR gauge + reinstall the stereo 5) Clean up the interior And probably five other things I'm forgetting.
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May 28, 2016 07:24
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The good news: It runs!     The bad news? It's still here. drat it. I'm having issues getting the idle to settle down and it's still sticking going in/out of reverse. Rob's out of town (he built the trans) and I'm getting ready to travel, so it's officially on hold until I get back  . I did get the fuel pump swapped, the old one was giving me strange fuel pressure readings. More on this in the future.  Since that was such a downer, I decided to do something I've wanted to on my own car. The brakes have been terrible since I bought it and I've had these 2000 RZ 17" brakes sitting around. One thing led to another and bam! The old brakes were smooth as glass.  Old setup for size reference.  Painted the RZ calipers.  Old front rotors vs RZ front rotors.  New rear rotors are bigger then the old front rotors.  New rear vs old rear.  I also had some Hawk HP's and SS braided lines laying around.    New rears:  New fronts: 
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May 31, 2016 03:18
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Looks sharp! Love this thread.
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May 31, 2016 06:49
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Painting calipers is rice, but it's also good rice. Did you just sand the lettering off?
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May 31, 2016 20:06
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I used a 3m Roloc 60 grit disc on a 1/4" right angle die grinder. So, yes. The calipers are red from the factory on RZ models, I was just too lazy/impatient to gunkote this set.
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Jun 1, 2016 05:54
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Won't the letters rust now that they're back to being bare metal?
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Jun 2, 2016 14:14
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The 4-pot calipers with letters are aluminum.
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Jun 2, 2016 14:33
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Hey spyder, I am buying an rx-8 that will need a rebuild soon (for very little money). there is a local rotary specialist called defined autoworks that I may have do the rebuild. Just wondered if you were familiar with them, or should I just contact pineapple?
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Jun 8, 2016 05:58
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SpellEdge posted:I am buying an rx-8 that will need a rebuild soon (for very little money). Pretty sure RX8's are like boats. There's no such thing as 'very little money'. It may be cheaper to drop a RX7 motor in the RX8 than rebuild it only to have it fail again later.
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Jun 8, 2016 06:33
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ShittyPostmakerPro posted:Pretty sure RX8's are like boats. There's no such thing as 'very little money'. It may be cheaper to drop a RX7 motor in the RX8 than rebuild it only to have it fail again later. The 'very little money ' is in reference to the initial purchase price. From what I understand the rew swap requires switching to single turbo as well as a mount kit. with a used engine the initial cost would be higher. Also I think with an omp adapter and pre-mix the 13b-msp can live quite a bit longer than one might think. EDIT: I should say I'm just looking to gather more information and weigh options right now and I appreciate your input. The power bump would certainly be nice from an rew swap. SpellEdge fucked around with this message at 13:30 on Jun 8, 2016 |
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Jun 8, 2016 13:16
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Not dealt with Defined Autoworks personally, but from what I've seen of their work I wouldn't hesitate to use them.
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Jun 8, 2016 13:42
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mekilljoydammit posted:Not dealt with Defined Autoworks personally, but from what I've seen of their work I wouldn't hesitate to use them. I can only echo this. I would call (or visit) both places, talk to the engine builder, and get prices (parts, labor, shipping)- but more importantly warranty. Compare what's replaced/reused and then make the decision. Just in general I've only found one or two shops that do similar quality work to Rob and both cost about the same or more.
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Jun 8, 2016 13:48
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My long path to learning to put together a good engine was largely driven by not knowing who I could trust, though it gets harder when "competitive power for this roadrace class" goes in there too. Actually, to this day I only know of a couple builders I'd trust to for sure make competitive power in an EProd engine, and I don't know how many of them would be willing to do customer work other than Mazdatrix. Well, all that and I'm stubborn.
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Jun 8, 2016 14:33
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Thank you guys, I will continue to research.
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Jun 8, 2016 16:40
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Spyder's away so I'm playing with all the tools. I'm working on something fun, the adapter in the corner is a hint at what it is.   Anyway, I am going to pick up a cheapo throatless shear from horrible freight to finish it off. Hint: The blasting cabinet has been working pretty poorly lately, and I've been doing a lot of blasting.
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Jun 10, 2016 04:18
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Well, the throatless shear was actually quite horrible. I had to tear down, sand, file, and grind the thing until the blades would line up. I eventually got it working and got my little doghouse all bent up.  Hehehe  Yessssss  Well, anyway I think you can see where I'm going with this. My new media reclaiming device also needed a pickup.    Cyclone separates the media from the air stream and dumps it right onto the pickup.  I can run the gun continuously as long as my compressor can keep up! It's a little sluggish, though. I think there is too great of a restriction right now. I think tomorrow I'll shorten up the hoses and check the seals everywhere. That and clean up the opening into my little vacuum port. A nice weekend project. Edit- The two tubes provide a sort of carbureted media supply. The short tube is an air inlet, and a small hole is drilled between the vent tube and the media tube. This mixes the air and the media to provide a more consistent supply. I can probably tune it by adjusting the vent opening. Commodore_64 fucked around with this message at 07:28 on Jun 12, 2016 |
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Jun 12, 2016 07:24
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Very cool c64! I love your new metal working tools.
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Jun 19, 2016 19:11
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kinda looking forward to the dump spyder will do when he next updates us lol
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Jun 30, 2016 04:55
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Jliznel posted:kinda looking forward to the dump spyder will do when he next updates us lol Same. Long time reader here; I don't even know much about cars, I just regularly check in for the productivity porn. Also I didn't know what an FD was before this thread, whose contents now comprise 100% of my knowledge about them
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Jun 30, 2016 23:18
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Good news: There is an update coming! Bad news: I lied. I'm taking a break from, well, everything for a bit. I got back from Japan and realized something was terribly wrong. It's a long story and I'm not sure I'm ready to share it here, if ever. Until then, I just didn't want fellow goons worrying about me. I'll be back, sooner than later.
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Jul 8, 2016 04:09
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I'm sorry to see you go on hiatus, and I hope you'll come back. I quite enjoyed the updates to this thread. However I understand, you don't owe us anything, and I just hope whatever situation you've found yourself in is not serious, and poo poo gets sorted out in a good way, quickly. Best of luck.
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Jul 8, 2016 05:07
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Well, hell. Obviously have no idea what's up, but hope you get things sorted, and wish you all the best.
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Jul 8, 2016 13:39
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Please take the time you need. Good luck.
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Jul 8, 2016 14:07
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poo poo man, don't feel like you owe us anything. We're all grateful for the stories and pictures of jealousy-inducing shops and crazy Japanese cars powered by triangles. You just worry about taking care of number one.
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Jul 8, 2016 14:22
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Just chiming in to say I love reading your thread, and that I'm totally jealous of the cool stuff you bought in Japan. I saw a lot of neat tools when I went to Akihabara, but the Loonie is so terrible none of it was worth buying.
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Jul 8, 2016 16:45
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Hope everything sorts out all right. I really enjoy your thread and hope you continue to share with us in the future.
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Jul 8, 2016 19:38
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Still taking a break, but I did something terribly stupid.  God help me.
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Jul 24, 2016 21:02
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Welp, at-least you are skilled in dealing with electrical and cooling issues 
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Jul 24, 2016 21:22
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