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Hey dog, I see you whining and pestering me, well, if you're so restless lets see how you handle a two mile run, fuckler (he loved it)
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# ? May 31, 2016 01:08 |
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# ? May 31, 2024 12:54 |
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Control Volume posted:Hey dog, I see you whining and pestering me, well, if you're so restless lets see how you handle a two mile run, fuckler best thing to do for your energetic dogges
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# ? May 31, 2016 11:59 |
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Did an 8+ mile hike with the pooch and she was pestering me to play within 45 minutes of getting back. I fell like a monster if I ignore her to play some Overwatch.
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# ? May 31, 2016 20:24 |
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Warbird posted:Would it be unethical to limit my pooch's water intake during the day to help lessen the possibilities of accidents? I typically have water out for her at all times. set an alarm for every couple hours to remind you to let them out, if they don't have a way to get out on their own. it's june, please don't not have water out for your dog.
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# ? May 31, 2016 20:47 |
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I work a 40 and let her out at lunch. She's an apartment/inside dog, I'm not a total monster.
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# ? May 31, 2016 21:39 |
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Tips for a dog who doesn't like kibble? We'd switched her to 1/2 wet, 1/2 dry because she was turning up her nose at several different dry options, but vet suggested soft poop may have caused the anal gland issue, and the wet food was causing the soft poop, so we have to switch back. She dislikes crunchy things in general and won't touch Milkbone style treats. She will eventually eat some kibble if it's left out for a while and she gets hungry enough, or if I mix in something tasty (usually a few bites of people food crumbled up and hidden under the rest), but even then she never finishes it all. She's also about 2 pounds overweight, per vet, so it's probably not terrible if she doesn't eat it all, but I'd like to find something she doesn't hate. Are there any brands that make dry kibble that's not too hard/crunchy?
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# ? May 31, 2016 21:58 |
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pookel posted:Tips for a dog who doesn't like kibble? We'd switched her to 1/2 wet, 1/2 dry because she was turning up her nose at several different dry options, but vet suggested soft poop may have caused the anal gland issue, and the wet food was causing the soft poop, so we have to switch back. She dislikes crunchy things in general and won't touch Milkbone style treats. She will eventually eat some kibble if it's left out for a while and she gets hungry enough, or if I mix in something tasty (usually a few bites of people food crumbled up and hidden under the rest), but even then she never finishes it all. Wet food as in "because the food is wet at all", or something in the wet food explicitly? If it's the latter, you could just try wetting her kibble down with just enough water to make it less crunchy and see if she goes for it any better.
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# ? May 31, 2016 22:01 |
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If she's overweight you might be overfeeding her. One of my small dogs self regulates really well. My husband overfills her kibble scoop and inevitably after a couple days of him feeding her, she'll start turning her nose up to the food. She also has small teeth/mouth (my yorkie is 2/3 her weight and has 3x larger teeth), so she vastly prefers small kibble (we use Kirkland Dog Food for Small Dogs) so if you can access to that, it might help as well. But either way, we're pretty firm with her about no treats, no licking our plate, until she eats her food, and she must finish within 30 minutes or it all goes away and no treats until after she finishes the next meal. It's worked fine for 2 years now.
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# ? May 31, 2016 22:02 |
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Ursine Catastrophe posted:Wet food as in "because the food is wet at all", or something in the wet food explicitly? If it's the latter, you could just try wetting her kibble down with just enough water to make it less crunchy and see if she goes for it any better. Rurutia posted:If she's overweight you might be overfeeding her. One of my small dogs self regulates really well. My husband overfills her kibble scoop and inevitably after a couple days of him feeding her, she'll start turning her nose up to the food. She also has small teeth/mouth (my yorkie is 2/3 her weight and has 3x larger teeth), so she vastly prefers small kibble (we use Kirkland Dog Food for Small Dogs) so if you can access to that, it might help as well.
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# ? May 31, 2016 22:19 |
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pookel posted:She's a rescue, so we've only had her for a little over 2 months now. I don't know how her previous owners fed her, so it's hard to tell. Thanks for the tip, I'll look for small kibble. Have you not been tracking her weight to make sure your feeding her the correct amount? When we first got her, we weren't too worried about her occasionally not eating even though we were feeding the calculated correct amount (less than on the bag) because she was gaining and she came to us very skinny. We weighed her every week by weighing ourselves while holding her then not holding her to monitor her weight gain and measure it against how much we should feed her. We ended up settling on feeding her half of the calculated correct amount.
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# ? May 31, 2016 22:30 |
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pookel posted:Well, I switched to a wet food and her poop immediately got softer, I assumed that would be a normal thing because wet food = wet poop. I didn't experiment with a bunch of different foods since she was thrilled about that. I have tried wetting kibble with water and/or chicken broth and she still turns up her nose. Is it likely that a different brand/type of food would produce firmer poop? I don't want to be switching foods on her a lot, so if there's a brand/type that might be more likely to work, I'd want to try that. I'm pretty sure that wet food != wet poop? but I'm not a vet, which is why I ask. I know switching dog's food screws with their digestion, and screwing with their digestion = food getting pushed through faster, not being digested fully, and poops being wetter because they don't spend enough time in the large intestine to fully dehydrate (also stress has the same effect, changes in environment can result in stress-diarrhea for dogs). If she likes the wet/dry mix, then I'd say at least stick with it for a week or two, assuming you haven't already and the vet hasn't explicitly said "don't feed her wet food". If you want to try another kibble, just be aware that it could well result in the same wet poops. Rurutia posted:Have you not been tracking her weight to make sure your feeding her the correct amount? When we first got her, we weren't too worried about her occasionally not eating even though we were feeding the calculated correct amount (less than on the bag) because she was gaining and she came to us very skinny. We weighed her every week by weighing ourselves while holding her then not holding her to monitor her weight gain and measure it against how much we should feed her. We ended up settling on feeding her half of the calculated correct amount. I just end up doing the "food in a bowl twice a day, if it's not done in 30 minutes then it's gone" deal for my pup. I'm a bit leery of trying to guess what the exact-proper weight is for a still-growing, questionable-ancestry rescue mutt, but she also doesn't empty her bowl 100% of the time while I'm feeding her the recommended amount for her size/weight so as long as your pup doesn't look visibly overweight from the top I don't know how much I'd stress about weight tracking.
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# ? May 31, 2016 22:40 |
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Ursine Catastrophe posted:I just end up doing the "food in a bowl twice a day, if it's not done in 30 minutes then it's gone" deal for my pup. I'm a bit leery of trying to guess what the exact-proper weight is for a still-growing, questionable-ancestry rescue mutt, but she also doesn't empty her bowl 100% of the time while I'm feeding her the recommended amount for her size/weight so as long as your pup doesn't look visibly overweight from the top I don't know how much I'd stress about weight tracking. Uhh, for some reason I thought pookel's rescue was fully grown? Ours was. There was no guessing going on for the proper weight. We did this under the supervision of our vet and saw them every few months. They were comfortable with everything. It wasn't stressful for us. I'm just recommending it if she's concerned about her dog not eating enough because of the dry kibble because then she'll know if it's actually a problem or not.
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# ? May 31, 2016 22:47 |
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Rurutia posted:Have you not been tracking her weight to make sure your feeding her the correct amount? When we first got her, we weren't too worried about her occasionally not eating even though we were feeding the calculated correct amount (less than on the bag) because she was gaining and she came to us very skinny. We weighed her every week by weighing ourselves while holding her then not holding her to monitor her weight gain and measure it against how much we should feed her. We ended up settling on feeding her half of the calculated correct amount. She didn't have any issues switching food from the foster person's preferred brand (a Costco brand, and we don't have one in my town, so that was a no-go) to the first one I tried, and then again to a different dry brand since she didn't like the first. I mean, I had a hard time getting her to eat them, but she had consistently firm poop on three different dry brands, and then there was a big change with the wet food. Maybe I'll try a different wet food? The vet also recommended adding a bit of canned pumpkin, but she doesn't seem to like that. Picky little girl.
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# ? May 31, 2016 23:04 |
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If you switched your dog to dry food and didn't like it straight away don't go - awww poor darling wont eat have some steak and eggs, just leave it and dogge will eventually give in to hunger and eat, and soon even get used to dry food. Yeah I'm a monster. Also 7 more days til I pick up my new puppy why does time go so slowly?
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# ? May 31, 2016 23:54 |
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pookel posted:Well, I haven't been micromanaging her weight, if that's what you mean. I was advised to feed for the weight she should be and not her current weight, so I've been feeding her the recommended amount for a 13-pound dog (not that there's a huge difference between amounts of kibble for 13 pounds vs. 15 pounds, but I've been trying). I haven't been weighing her every week, just occasionally, since the rescue's vet said she was healthy and just a little overweight. How did you switch foods? Because it's supposed to be a very gradual process and based on your posts it seems like you did it cold turkey. How long did you keep it in the wet food before deciding to go back to dry? Maybe he didn't have bad reactions to switching between dry foods because it was a similar/same protein source or for a billion other reasons. Missing a meal won't kill your dog, especially if it's fat, and a lot of smaller dogs tend to end up being free feeders in my experience. My husky rescue is a picky eater and it's an uphill battle but we've found certain brands he likes, while others he will stick his nose up at, just takes time(he gets a mix of wet and dry daily). You can all try rice for hardening stool btw. Also in case the vet didn't tell you, little dogs often have problems naturally expressing their anal glands. If you keep up on grooming, groomers can do this as an add on to a bath or cut. Otherwise your vet can do a more thorough job. Otherwise your dog's rear end glands end up exploding, as you've seen. Be lucky she hasn't expressed her glands on you. Yet .
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# ? Jun 1, 2016 09:07 |
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Hard poop generally naturally expresses the glands on a regular basis. It's when the poop gets soft that they stop expressing on their own and it becomes a problem. For some dogs it's just always a problem and they need to be done regularly by a groomer. Its a job that I'll gladly pay to have done. Pure pumpkin in a can (not pumpkin pie filling) will do miracles to firm up a stool. We keep a few cans in the pantry just in case but our dogs current food (costco nature's something - blue bag) has sweet potato which apparently has similar effects as pumpkin. His stool is very consistent now. We've noticed a big difference been food brands and overall coat/ look/ and stool. Chicken protein (of different brand foods) seemed to give my dog allergies and since we switched to salmon and sweet potato it's been much better. As for difficulty with kibble, try slowly introducing it with wet food. Do a 75/25 50/50 25/75 and 100% transition over the course of a few weeks. Look for kibble that's small in size and easier to chew. Dry kibble is also supposed to be much better for healthy teeth and gums. They also make some flavored sauces you can pour over kibble to entice them to eat it. And if the poop never firms up, consider a giardia test. Man, I sometimes wish my dog wasn't so food motivated but I can't imagine having a picky eater either. I feel like a goddamn drug dealer withholding from a junkie until they do tricks for me. If it wasn't for rewards there's no way my dog would willingly ride in his crate in the back of the car by himself.
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# ? Jun 1, 2016 09:36 |
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My dogs' stool gets loose when I'm overfeeding them. Maybe that's the issue here too? Don't bother with the guidelines on the bag, but reduce by 10-15% and track body weight to determine a healthy rate of weight loss (1-2% body weight/week).
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# ? Jun 1, 2016 13:10 |
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Kluliss posted:they might be expensive but our staffie mix has had one for several months and is showing no sign of getting to the end of it - we occasionally 'freshen it up' by shoving a bit of peanut butter in to entice her to chew on it again and off she goes... I buy the large or medium whole antlers for my Havanese and he will chew one down to a nub in 6-8 weeks. He loving loves them and will easily spend a couple of hours a day gnawing at it. It's worth the $30 every month or so to have something that keeps him occupied for so long. e: Sometimes I buy him stuffed toys because I feel bad that he only has a few toys he plays with regularly and when I give them to him he will spend an hour or so methodically destroying them before going back to his antler and the same three toys he's had since he was a puppy
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# ? Jun 2, 2016 05:22 |
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I left my dog with a family friend for the past week while I was away. She was just dropped off yesterday and to my surprise she is now infested with fleas! I gave the sitter the medication to give her when we dropped her off but they said it slipped their mind so she was vulnerable for four days. I just gave her and my cats some frontline and brushed them with a flea comb and drowned the fleas I caught in a pot of boiling water. Is there anything else I should do? I have flea bombs but I have fish and would rather avoid bombing the place if I could.
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# ? Jun 3, 2016 20:54 |
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I just adopted a 1-year-old little dog about a month ago, and I am at my wit's end trying to get her to stop pooping in the house. She was apparently housebroken, according to the vet that had her, and she didn't have accidents when she was with them. I take her out for a ridiculous number of walks, about every hour and a half, and I spend tons of time playing with her, but she will still poop in the house as soon as I take my eyes off of her, even if she just went outside. Yesterday I came home from work, let her out and played with her and cuddled with her for about two hours, took her for a walk, then went inside and played Overwatch for an hour, and I come out into the living room to find poop, even though she was laying in her bed every time I turned around from the computer. This morning we woke up, went out, got breakfast, played for a little bit, then went out for another walk, but she wouldn't do anything outside, even when I made her walk around our front lawn for a while when we got back to the house. I go to check my email, and literally 15 minutes later check on her and there's poop on the rug. I am honestly not sure what you're supposed to do here, and most of the websites I've seen don't have very concrete advice. I have not crated her, as she doesn't usually have any issues when I leave for work, and it always seems to happen when I'm home and she would be out of the crate, anyway. She was abandoned at the vet, and as nice as they are, she probably spent a good 20 hours a day in a crate for the past few months, so I don't want to do that if I don't have to. I praise her and pet her when she does her thing outside, and repeat "go out" whenever she does it or when we leave the house. When I discover pee or poop inside (usually poop) I yell at her and push her face into it and tell her "go out" and put her in the backyard, which I've always heard was what you're supposed to do, but my mother is now telling me that's only going to scare her. I don't want to traumatize the poor thing -- she's bonded very tightly to me, and I don't want to be another bad owner. I always pet her and make friends again within 15 minutes, because I know she's not going to understand why I'm still mad, but it is getting harder to be nice to her right away as this keeps going.
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# ? Jun 4, 2016 17:15 |
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Phenotype posted:When I discover pee or poop inside (usually poop) I yell at her and push her face into it Don't do this ever. The dog doesn't understand it and it's just going to gently caress it up. If you catch her in the act, you can yell or clap loudly to startle her which may cause her to pause, at which point you take her outside immediately before she can continue and let her finish out there. Anything after the fact is pointless. In fact, if she sees you're upset by this, she may even be doing it to antagonize you for not paying attention to her. Take the dog out every hour. Take her to the spot on the leash and don't go anywhere until she goes. As soon as she goes, go back inside. she needs to learn outside on the leash in the spot is time to go. When she does, praise her and even give her a treat. Take the poo poo from inside and put it outside in the spot you want her to go. It will help establish this as a pooping zone. Clean the house. Everywhere she pissed or poo poo with an enzymatic cleaner. Your regular cleaners will not get the secret odors out that the dog smells and you can't. The dog smells this and thinks this is the place to go. Vinegar might be useful too, but go with the good stuff. Your life for the next two weeks is dog. There are no video games. Getting the dog to poop outside is your new game. You have to pay attention to the dog. She may be giving subtle signs she needs to go.
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# ? Jun 4, 2016 17:54 |
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100% supervision/management for 2 weeks. If you're not actively watching her either tether her to you or crate her. That should cut down on the opportunity for her to poop inside - pushing her face in it is usually counterproductive since it'll result in a dog that hides from you while pooping, making them harder to housebreak.
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# ? Jun 4, 2016 17:54 |
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This is getting ridiculous
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# ? Jun 4, 2016 17:57 |
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FogHelmut posted:Don't do this ever. The dog doesn't understand it and it's just going to gently caress it up. If you catch her in the act, you can yell or clap loudly to startle her which may cause her to pause, at which point you take her outside immediately before she can continue and let her finish out there. Anything after the fact is pointless. In fact, if she sees you're upset by this, she may even be doing it to antagonize you for not paying attention to her. Or doing it sneakily because she's afraid you're going to be a mean person to her. My mom always tells this story about our old family dog being modest and not wanting anyone to watch her going to the poo/pee, so she'd run far away if we were outside so that no one could see her do it. In retrospect I would bet money the dog did it because my step-dad would rub her face in it and yell when she went in the house when she was a puppy.
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# ? Jun 4, 2016 18:07 |
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FogHelmut posted:Don't do this ever. The dog doesn't understand it and it's just going to gently caress it up. If you catch her in the act, you can yell or clap loudly to startle her which may cause her to pause, at which point you take her outside immediately before she can continue and let her finish out there. Anything after the fact is pointless. In fact, if she sees you're upset by this, she may even be doing it to antagonize you for not paying attention to her. What do I do when I find poop, then? Do I not even tell her bad dog, go out, put her outside, etc? You mentioned I should put the poop outside, but if I just drop her outside with the poop like everything's cool, she's not gonna have any idea what we're going for, I wouldn't think. For enzymatic cleaner, are you talking about that odor eliminator stuff I see online? I always thought that was just, like, for my own benefit, like if I thought the carpet started to smell like pee. That might be an idea -- the carpet is kinda old and beat up, might smell like residual pee from the last dog that lived here.
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# ? Jun 4, 2016 18:09 |
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Phenotype posted:What do I do when I find poop, then? Do I not even tell her bad dog, go out, put her outside, etc? You mentioned I should put the poop outside, but if I just drop her outside with the poop like everything's cool, she's not gonna have any idea what we're going for, I wouldn't think. Sigh to yourself and rub your face in it so that next time you catch her before she does it, would probably work better :P My experience is that positive reinforcement is the way to go. Ignore the accidents and reward her greatly when she actually does what you want. At this point she might be scared of going to the washroom in front of you outside because she thinks she will be punished, so you'll just have to work harder at it. Stay outside for longer, as long as it takes. Don't let her out of your sight at all while inside. It will take some work but things will fall into place.
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# ? Jun 4, 2016 18:16 |
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Phenotype posted:What do I do when I find poop, then? Do I not even tell her bad dog, go out, put her outside, etc? You mentioned I should put the poop outside, but if I just drop her outside with the poop like everything's cool, she's not gonna have any idea what we're going for, I wouldn't think. Manage the dog to the point that an accident can't happen for two weeks. During that time, reward good behavior. If you find poop after that, go back to 100% management for a week. You can't reliably punish the dog after the fact because it's more likely that they learn to hide their poop from you, which results in not going in front of you and making GBS threads behind furniture.
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# ? Jun 4, 2016 18:23 |
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Phenotype posted:What do I do when I find poop, then? Do I not even tell her bad dog, go out, put her outside, etc? You mentioned I should put the poop outside, but if I just drop her outside with the poop like everything's cool, she's not gonna have any idea what we're going for, I wouldn't think. By the time the dog's done pooping, it's already too late to react. You can't reward or punish a dog for something it did more than five seconds ago - when you find a pile of poop and punish her for it, she has no idea what you're punishing her for. It's often actively counterproductive - since the dog doesn't really understand the context behind the pile of poop you're shoving her face in, she'll typically come away with the lesson that pooping at all is bad and shouldn't be done. Which means that she'll try really hard not to poop in front of you and will hold it in until she absolutely can't do it anymore, both of which make it really difficult to get her to poop when you want her to poop and have her out in the proper pooping place, and when she absolutely can't manage it anymore and lets it go, she'll try to hide it somewhere so you won't be able to find it and stick her face in it. Positive reinforcement is key - you want to make pooping a positive experience, but especially when she does it where you want her to. By rewarding her for pooping outside and ignoring it when she poops inside, you teach her two things: you teach her that pooping is good and okay and she should do it when she needs to, and you teach her that pooping outside is extra good because she gets treats so she should try to do it whenever possible. Enzymatic cleaners like Nature's Miracle are essential. Dog waste leaves behind chemical markers that dogs can smell and people can't. Dogs will tend to want to poop and pee at spots with those super secret dog smells, and regular household cleaners won't get rid of them. Enzymatic cleaners, on the other hand, will break down those chemical markers. If you don't clean those spots up properly, you're going to have a real hard time housebreaking because every accident site might as well have a big neon sign planted there saying "This is a good spot to use as a bathroom".
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# ? Jun 4, 2016 19:03 |
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So we have our cocker puppy on the way in a few weeks, and we've got most things planned out to some degree, from garden security through cat interaction to training. There is one potential cloud on the horizon, though, and that's my aunt and uncle. They live in the same city as us, and we get along well, so we see them a lot, but they have a Tibetan terrier with severe (and probably fear-based) dog aggression. A meeting between her and our pup is basically inevitable, and highly likely to be negative. I was just planning to make sure that our cocker meets her as late as possible, in the most open, low-pressure way possible, after as much dog socialisation as is healthy and advisable to stuff into her tiny puppy brain, and to pray for the best, but if you folks have additional tips to prevent some early trauma, I'd be happy to hear them.
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# ? Jun 4, 2016 20:12 |
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Tsyni posted:Or doing it sneakily because she's afraid you're going to be a mean person to her. She doesn't seem scared of doing her business in front of me at least, she usually pees right away when we go for walks. I'm hoping I haven't done any real damage yet, she's still extremely close to me and just expects to play or cuddle when I approach her. I feel awful after seeing all these responses, though. This is my first dog, and I had always heard that was what you do to get them housebroken, although when I think about it, it's something I'd read in old kids books written fifty years ago, Henry Huggins and Ribsy, that sort of thing. I'm guessing it's common wisdom from the 1950s that's since been proved to be harmful. She is practically tethered to me as-is, so I'm about to go out and grab some cleaner, and then we'll just have to keep her in my sight or in my lap for a while -- I'm pretty sure she only leaves my side when she wanders off and poops, anyway. Bonus picture of little Harley:
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# ? Jun 4, 2016 22:12 |
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Reaching out for some help. I noticed an above post with stool issues. Forgive me as I've never owned a puppy, so Im learning every day. Rescued my pup from Tennessee (I live in NH) about a month ago. He's an 11 month old flat coated retriever. When we got him, we took him to a local vet who asked us to bring a stool sample. She wasn't very thorough, IMO, and said his stool has "a little giardia, but just monitor it." Since we got him he's been eating Blue Buffalo Puppy Life Protection Formula, Blue Bag. His stool has been fine and my girlfriend works from home, so it's been really easy to get him on a routine. Last week, poop turned to exclusively diarrhea. They gave us a probiotic. We gave the vet a sample who now confirmed full blown giardia and whipworm. They gave us am antibiotic. Each of these with five day doses, so it's all used up. Since Thursday night he has been up all hours of the night, asking me to go out almost every hour or two, and each time he has diarrhea. During the day, completely normal puppy. Very playful and sleepy. At night he cannot rest at all. I'm bringing him to a new vet today because I really don't like this one. I was told as a rescue she should've given us something off the bat to help him out. I'm sure we'll get more meds, but does anybody have any experience with this, and can name some products that might help? I have a feeling part of this is the food, but I was told to give him a bland boiled diet of chicken and rice and it's still happening, even more frequently. Thank you in advance for your help.
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# ? Jun 5, 2016 15:01 |
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He could be reinfecting himself from the old poop.
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# ? Jun 5, 2016 15:18 |
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Giardia is a tricky bitch. My pup took 2 rounds of treatments before he finally kicked it. Sometimes it takes more than one go at treatment to get rid of parasites. It's really easy for them to just keep getting it. If they have it, their poop has it. Keep your dog away from its poop Eggert it goes. Dogs that may have sniffed or eaten your dogs poop could have it and could have pooped in the area, potentially passing it to other dogs or returning it to yours. Watch public water bowls and mud puddles, and obviously mounds of other dogs poop. It takes a very watchful eye to keep them out. Good luck.
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# ? Jun 6, 2016 05:33 |
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So I've taken in Belle's "brother" from her old household for a couple of months while the owner is off in China. While picking up the pooch I got to talking to him about Belle's old owner (his roommate) and it turns out he'd crate her for having accidents in the house, thus the separation, potty, and crate anxiety. Mystery solved. Hooray. If you've never seen a full grown husky being chased by a very pissed beagle pup for having her bone and watching him find out he can't corner as well as he thought on hardwood then you haven't lived. Hot tips on managing two dogs that sorta know each other would be appreciated. He's pretty chill and is content to hang out in his crate when I'm not around, but he's still intact for whatever reason and I'm concerned it could lead to aggression down the line.
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# ? Jun 6, 2016 15:49 |
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Any thoughts on collars vs. harnesses? Kind of new to the idea of a harness, haven't had a dog in over a decade. I'm adopting a Jindo next weekend and wondering which direction to go.
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# ? Jun 6, 2016 16:44 |
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Harnesses make it so much easier to control your dog without putting pressure on their windpipe the way a collar would. If Jindos are anything like the other Asian spitz breeds, you'll appreciate the control a harness gives when the dog has spotted something and wants to go tearing after it (based on my experience as an Akita owner who has deer that roam our walking paths).
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# ? Jun 6, 2016 17:00 |
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# ? Jun 6, 2016 18:01 |
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I use a lurcher collar on my lurcher. I considered a harness for him but he's so loving chill I don't think it matters in his case anyway.
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# ? Jun 6, 2016 18:19 |
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I live with my family and my mother suddenly popped into the home with a brand new Rat Terrier puppy (named Navin ). I'm a little nervous because my family hasn't been very good with pets in the past (everybody working a lot and not taking them out enough). I'm moving out in a month but i'm really hoping this time we'll do him better. I'm throwing links and all the resources from this thread and elsewhere that I can find so they understand this responsibility they suddenly brought into the home.
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# ? Jun 7, 2016 01:56 |
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# ? May 31, 2024 12:54 |
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So, yesterday was the first day my kids weren't in school since we got our dog. This means that my kids were at their dad's all day instead of getting home after school and taking care of her at 3:15. When I got home at 5:30, she did a fair impression of one of those "dog greets owner after 2-year deployment" videos. She jumped, she flopped, she licked me all over, she made whiny noises, then she licked and flopped some more. The one odd thing was that last night she just wouldn't settle down at bedtime. Normally she's pretty content at night, but she was really restless - jumping around, snuffling at things, chewing her toes, and even chewing on some cardboard, which I've never seen her do before. She didn't whine or act needy, though. Is that likely to mean anything? Maybe just a little anxiety at being left alone longer than usual? The other thing that's different is that this weekend my friend came over with her similarly-sized dog (bichon cross) and the little furballs went nuts playing together. I wasn't sure they'd be friendly and I was all ready to give her some space, but they got along wonderfully. Maybe she was still keyed up from the excitement of getting to play with another dog? It's not a big deal, but I hope it doesn't happen regularly ... it was really hard for me to sleep with all the bouncing around and chewing noises. I'll probably try to tire her out extra tonight. My dog and her buddy (mine's the black and white one): http://imgur.com/YiOzEXF
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# ? Jun 7, 2016 16:27 |