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I managed to track down a new old stock wheel for my Alfa. It is perfect, except.. How serious? I zero about bent rims or if this is even concerning or if I should throw it in the garbage. I slam into potholes in NYC all the time in my Mazda, I'm sure those wheels have some battle scars if you pull the tires off. Photos: http://imgur.com/a/mGBj2 Hit an Apex fucked around with this message at 01:02 on Jun 1, 2016 |
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Jun 1, 2016 01:00
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Father Jack posted:If I'm changing all 4 it's tempting to switch to 195/50R15 for better choice and prices on summer tyres, or 195/55R15 and get Michelin Crossclimates. Looks like if your trim came with the 185/55s, you should have the 6.5s. 195s should fit that wheel fine, though the factory optioned 195/55s came with 7Jx15 ET40 wheels - I'd guess you'll notice a little bit of sidewall bulge (vs the 185s), but only if you're looking closely - plenty of cars come with 195/xx tires on 6.5s. Personally I'd probably put one of the old 185s on the spare. Or find a used tire in the new size (if it's legal to do so in your area). Personally I don't think I could justify the cost of a brand new tire for a spare, but I'm kind of cheap.
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Jun 1, 2016 07:53
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What's this thing in my car, next to the interior light? The car is a 2009 Toyota Aygo Blue. It's my first car, I don't know much about cars and I'm still figuring out what's normal. This little plastic thing is stuck to the ceiling with Velcro, and has a wire going into the light. It says 'Made in Poland' on the other side. I bought the car second hand so the previous owner might have done it. I tried Google, figuring this was some normal car part that I just don't know about, but I'm drawing a blank. The Velcro is what makes me think maybe it isn't original to the car. The light itself is completely normal and works fine. Any ideas?
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Jun 1, 2016 14:02
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Bluetooth microphone?
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Jun 1, 2016 14:08
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Yeah, looks like an aftermarket bluetooth install. Any bluetooth buttons on the dash?
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Jun 1, 2016 14:31
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Probably a physical car kit where you had to insert the phone.
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Jun 1, 2016 14:43
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spankmeister posted:Probably a physical car kit where you had to insert the phone. I had a parrot hands free kit with a mike just like that.
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Jun 1, 2016 18:19
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That is bluetooth handsfree mic and if you look closely it looks high.
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Jun 1, 2016 18:50
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Could someone tell me what this part is that I had to cut off? Also what is the name of the part it connects to? It was connected to a brass fitting on the bottom of the radiator. Also any advice on a place to buy said parts? Thanks!  
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Jun 1, 2016 19:11
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Hard to tell, can you post a picture of the location on the radiator? I'd guess it's a coolant temp sensor. If so, it being bad/seized could explain why your fans didn't work, and were hotwired.
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Jun 1, 2016 19:13
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Shot in the dark, but anyone know what might go between a muffler and the tailpipe? Big boxy thing, maybe as big as the muffler itself. Gasoline NA engine, can't give more details, unfortunately.
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Jun 1, 2016 22:28
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A resonator to make it sound not-lovely.
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Jun 1, 2016 22:47
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totalnewbie posted:Shot in the dark, but anyone know what might go between a muffler and the tailpipe? Big boxy thing, maybe as big as the muffler itself. Gasoline NA engine, can't give more details, unfortunately. A catalytic converter that use to be there but a crackhead stole it by cutting it off for a quick 50 for their next high. Oh wait muffler and tailpipe? Cats aren't that far back..
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Jun 1, 2016 23:02
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everybody posted:Bluetooth mic Thank you! I won't worry about it so much when the Velcro comes loose, now. I can't get any bars out here in the sticks anyway. Slavvy posted:it looks high Yes, yes it does.
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Jun 2, 2016 00:20
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tater_salad posted:A catalytic converter that use to be there but a crackhead stole it by cutting it off for a quick 50 for their next high. Yep, definitely not a TWC. Godholio posted:A resonator to make it sound not-lovely. This could be, but they were more rectangular/squarish. I thought resonators were generally cylindrical? And sorry for being so vague, I'm really paranoid to even describe it in more detail.
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Jun 2, 2016 01:22
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totalnewbie posted:Yep, definitely not a TWC. Do you think it's a bomb or drugs?
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Jun 2, 2016 01:25
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Haha no, but it's sort of work-related.
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Jun 2, 2016 01:26
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totalnewbie posted:Yep, definitely not a TWC. The ones I've seen are cylindrical, but I can't think of anything else that would go AFTER a muffler.  Really curious about the cloak and dagger though.
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Jun 2, 2016 01:55
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Sounds like a resonator to me. Anyone know of a donor vehicle for some wheels that are: - 12 inch diameter - 4x100 bolt pattern - width not overly important - I'll figure out backspacing later. Right now, as much as possible, I can run spacers if needed - common as dirt in the northeastern US so I can junkyard some wheels easily I know this is a tall order but, welp. Not so many 12 inch wheel donors in the first place. If the backspacing is deep and they are common and cheap enough, any other bolt pattern I can get cheap adapters to 4x100 for is fine too. Steel preferred for brake clearance.
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Jun 2, 2016 02:22
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Godholio posted:
Comes with the territory of working in automotive. It's much better to be safe than sorry 
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Jun 2, 2016 03:26
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kastein posted:Anyone know of a donor vehicle for some wheels that are: I want to say you could order a late 70s/early 80s Civic with 12s, but most of what I'm turning up shows 13s. Honda had a huge boner for 4x100 forever. Trailer wheels would be my next guess. Any reason you can't do 13s? That would give you a few more options. tater_salad posted:A catalytic converter that use to be there but a crackhead stole it by cutting it off for a quick 50 for their next high. Depends on the car. My Altima had two cats - one where you expect it, and one just before the muffler. totalnewbie posted:This could be, but they were more rectangular/squarish. I thought resonators were generally cylindrical? And sorry for being so vague, I'm really paranoid to even describe it in more detail. I've seen oval resonators before, wouldn't be surprised to see a rectangular one.
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Jun 2, 2016 05:06
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The surface plastic on the wheel arch of my 2007 Mini Cooper S is slowly coming off. To get a new arch from BMW is a hair under £50, and online sources are at about £45. I could get a used one for about £30-35, but then I have the aggro of sourcing the attachment clips which break when you remove the arch from the body. Are there any suggested paints or coatings that I could use to sort it out or at least make it considerably less visible?
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Jun 2, 2016 18:40
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some texas redneck posted:Any reason you can't do 13s? That would give you a few more options. yes, that's why I specifically asked for 12s. I don't know what it is but every time I ask this, no matter where, I get any number of people offering me 13s, 14s, 15s, 16s, sometimes with the justification that they come with tires. The problem is, it doesn't solve the problem... e: trailer wheels are interesting as a suggestion, I found some 4x100 patterned 12s that come with brand new 4.80x12 tires for 55 bucks each. Might have to try to find one of those wheels locally to testfit before buying. http://shop.wheelsexpressonline.com/12-inch-Trailer-wheels-and-480-12-tires-12-4-lug-w-spoke-530.htm kastein fucked around with this message at 19:29 on Jun 2, 2016 |
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Jun 2, 2016 19:20
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some texas redneck posted:I've seen oval resonators before, wouldn't be surprised to see a rectangular one. My first-gen Focus had a rectangular resonator just before the tailpipe (actually the tailpipe was a ~8" piece of pipe sticking out of it) that was commonly referred to as "the lunchbox" on its stock exhaust.
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Jun 2, 2016 19:31
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kastein posted:yes, that's why I specifically asked for 12s. Probably because they're attempting to help you in good faith with the information given to them.
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Jun 2, 2016 20:17
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Ludicro posted:The surface plastic on the wheel arch of my 2007 Mini Cooper S is slowly coming off. Seems like a great place to use plastidip. Might want to hit them with some sandpaper first in case the flaked paint is thick enough that you still see the flake outline underneath the plastidip.
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Jun 2, 2016 23:41
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I've got a 16-year-old toyota sienna, and recently whenever it rains the right hand part of the footwell on the passenger side gets flooded. Nowhere else. I've heard that the problem is the drains coming down from the sunroof, and that they need to be cleaned out wiht with compressed air. The high-pressure air hose I tried using had way too big an outlet for the small drainhole, despite my best efforts most of the air escaped, and it doesn't seem to have worked. Any advice on how to do that properly?
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Jun 3, 2016 02:05
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Trombone cleaner might work depending on how short the drains are
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Jun 3, 2016 02:13
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Bovril Delight posted:Trombone cleaner might work depending on how short the drains are Worth a shot. Thanks!
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Jun 3, 2016 02:23
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As another solution, a lot of airguns have a 1/4 NPT fitting on the end (or similar), and I'm sure you can scare up a fitting that goes from that to some small diameter needle or nipple or something you can wedge in there.
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Jun 3, 2016 02:36
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Raluek posted:As another solution, a lot of airguns have a 1/4 NPT fitting on the end (or similar), and I'm sure you can scare up a fitting that goes from that to some small diameter needle or nipple or something you can wedge in there. Or hit up harbor freight for the air blowgun they sell with wee adapters on it. This wasn't even the one I wanted but looks good http://m.harborfreight.com/air-blow-gun-set-4-pc-68260.html?utm_referrer=direct%2Fnot%20provided
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Jun 3, 2016 04:26
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One of my cars, a 1997 Volvo 850, seems to have a jammed lock cylinder. The car is old enough that the key doesn't have RFID or anything. The lock cylinder doesn't look too difficult to remove. Where's the best place to get a new lock cylinder keyed to my key? Dealership wants $133. Are there any other options?
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Jun 3, 2016 19:02
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Just bought a used car. On test drive looked like windshield was a little dirty so didn't give it a lot of thought. However, I took it home and cleaned it a lot and the problem still remains. In some situations, for instance, glare: I can see tiny specks all over my windshield, like the car was sandblasted or something. I also noticed some small dings in the windshield. I'm thinking that, even though the dings are small, there are more of them that I'm comfortable with and there's a tiny crack on the side of the windshield too. I'm also really concerned about all these specks. Should I try to push the dealer/my insurance to replace the windshield? 2013 Dodge Journey, if it matters.
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Jun 3, 2016 19:23
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A few states require deductible-free windshield replacements; if you're not in one of those, most companies will still waive deductibles on windshield repairs, which can be done if the crack is small enough; Safelite says under six inches, 3 chips or less, and not located on the edge of the windshield or "in line of sight" (I assume this means "straight ahead of the driver's face") Are the dings definitely chips/pits? Take a close look from the outside to make sure; sometimes there's dirt and crap that bonds to the glass and won't come off in a wash. If that's the case a claybar should take care of it.
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Jun 3, 2016 19:33
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Enourmo posted:Are the dings definitely chips/pits? Take a close look from the outside to make sure; sometimes there's dirt and crap that bonds to the glass and won't come off in a wash. If that's the case a claybar should take care of it. Yes, definitely chips. Sorry the pics make the car windshield look filthy but I made the mistake of trying to do anti-fog on the inside and it dried way too fast in the sunlight and everything looks like crap. But it did help with the camera's focus! Pic one has them outlined, for some reason the crack between the two side by side didn't show up. These are a 2 or so inches away from edge of windshield on driver's side.  This pic shows another one looking out from inside, is a little to the left of passenger:  Ran my fingernail across those and its definitely pitted. And this one shows the little spot things that caught the sun's glare enough to get photographed: 
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Jun 3, 2016 20:04
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Well, hopefully those aren't big enough to void the repair. As for your original question of talking to the dealer, you can always try, but I imagine you not reporting it until it was off the lot and in your possession will give you a steep uphill battle trying to prove it was like that when you bought it. I'd talk to your insurance.
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Jun 3, 2016 20:13
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CornHolio posted:One of my cars, a 1997 Volvo 850, seems to have a jammed lock cylinder. The car is old enough that the key doesn't have RFID or anything. The lock cylinder doesn't look too difficult to remove. Where's the best place to get a new lock cylinder keyed to my key? Dealership wants $133. Are there any other options? https://www.myswedishparts.com - I believe they're able to key the new lock cylinder to match your existing keys if you send them the VIN. Is it the ignition lock cylinder or a door lock cylinder? If it's for the ignition, that's not a bad price if it includes keying it to match, and it looks like myswedishparts may not be able to get the ignition lock cylinder anymore.
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Jun 3, 2016 22:25
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Enourmo posted:Well, hopefully those aren't big enough to void the repair. Telling them what exactly? The car you bought had pre existing damage that you want them to fix? Good luck.
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Jun 3, 2016 23:36
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some texas redneck posted:Looks like if your trim came with the 185/55s, you should have the 6.5s. 195s should fit that wheel fine, though the factory optioned 195/55s came with 7Jx15 ET40 wheels - I'd guess you'll notice a little bit of sidewall bulge (vs the 185s), but only if you're looking closely - plenty of cars come with 195/xx tires on 6.5s. I got a set of 4 195/55V15 CrossClimates and kept the best of the cheap but newish 185s as spare in the end. Thanks for the advice folks. On a related note, anyone have a recommendation for a compressor that runs from the cigarette lighter socket and has an accurate pressure gauge? I'm in the UK so I'd need something I can order from amazon or such, rather than going to a US store to buy it.
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Jun 4, 2016 15:08
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CornHolio posted:One of my cars, a 1997 Volvo 850, seems to have a jammed lock cylinder. The car is old enough that the key doesn't have RFID or anything. The lock cylinder doesn't look too difficult to remove. Where's the best place to get a new lock cylinder keyed to my key? Dealership wants $133. Are there any other options? Eeuroparts does Saab keys. I'd assume they do Volvo too.
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Jun 4, 2016 15:26
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