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malal posted:Yeah, those are exactly it. Folk art, Americana, et al. I've absolutely used those in the past, especially wh when I was starting out in middle/high school. The very first poo poo I ever painted was model cars with non-acrylic Testors paints. Some vet picked up on my painting background when I was buying my very first GW models and told me not to use Testors. I didn't understand why not at the time but I'm glad I listened. I used some cheap craft paint on a couple of Reaper minis for D&D and my Mordheim warband back in the day but I had problems with it chipping off of my metal minis. That may have been a technical problem. I've used it sparingly on basing and terrain since without much problem. It would be a nice addition to my painting toolkit to be able incorporate it into more projects. quote:As an aside I'm not mouth better now, I tend to use thick as poo poo Liquitex. It's so pigment rich I can thin it to whatever texture I need. I haven't used any Liquitex. Is it pigment rich while having smaller/less clumping pigments? I've used heavy pigment minis paints like GW Foundation or Vallejo "Heavy" colors. Those seem to thin down better than craft paints. quote:With speed painting it's all about eliminating steps, and thick pigment-rich paints really help with that. I'm all about eliminating steps when I'm coming up with a scheme for a full army I want to paint in a reasonable time frame and end up with nice tabletop results. My scheme for my current main army is relatively simple and satisfying. I'm still trying to come up with something fun for a sizeable side project that will be fun to paint and satisfying on the table. quote:As far as an actual speed painting competition I have not had the privilege. Well, let me relate my experience. It was GenCon 2010 and I did 1 Wyrd and 2 PP speed painting events. Who knows what might be different now. You show up, have 10 paints (red, yellow, green, blue, black, white, brown, silver, gold, something?), a new 6 well pallette and one new brush. You can keep the brush because painters are gross and we like to lick things. Then you get your model. It's pre-assembled and primed, I think I the event I was in had one black, one white, and one grey. You get a couple of minutes to check it out and then the clock started. The thing I found annoying was the judging. It was pretty clear that different judges gave more weight to different skills. I'm not saying I was robbed of victory by someone playing to the judges but it was pretty clear that some winners were picked based on a particular effect when other minis were technically better overall. The one I remember after all this time was the Wyrd one. The judges for that one clearly weighted free hand over shading, blending and color selection. I had better shading and blending than the winners and there were other painters who were better than me who lost to moderate freehanding. It wouldn't have been as annoying if they would have told us some goals when we got there. I'm totally fine with surprise challenges, less so with invisible challenges. I also think you're semi-local to me and I hope I eventually run into you so I can pick your brain in person. It's not looking likely based on our mini choices though.
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Jun 4, 2016 03:32
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I found a few miniatures via The War Store that I am ordering and looking to add some paint in as well. Any recommendations for reds and greens to pick up to look close to these? So far I have VMC Neutral Gray, VMC Carmine Red, and P3 Morrow White in my cart.   
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Jun 4, 2016 06:00
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The pigment in VMC Scarlett Red is pretty close to the red of the top picture, might have to lighten it a bit.
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Jun 4, 2016 06:26
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The top one reminds me of Vallejo Game Air Warlord Purple
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Jun 4, 2016 07:35
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Those colors are likely mixed, so you might not be able to match them right out of the pot with model paints. For instance, that first image's red background is probably alizarin crimson with a touch of blue mixed in. Alizarin crimson is a cold red, so Vallejo's sunset red or magenta are close analogs. Then just add a touch of blue to cool the red off a little more.
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Jun 4, 2016 07:41
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signalnoise posted:The top one reminds me of Vallejo Game Air Warlord Purple That's a good match, along with the Scarlett red. Is it safe to assume a good white and black are helpful in making lights/shades. Would there be a better color than black though? Seems like that might quickly take over light colors.
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Jun 4, 2016 07:41
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goodness posted:That's a good match, along with the Scarlett red. Don't be so out of the tube. Colors have natural values to them. Yellow is a bright color and violet is a dark color. Add a little blue to a red to darken it a little or yellow to lighten it. You can use white to lighten yellow, but adding black will just make mud, so use a brown instead.
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Jun 4, 2016 07:47
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Star Man posted:Don't be so out of the tube. This is silly advice in a thread for painting wargaming miniatures. There's real value to having predictable colors in easily-accessible form.
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Jun 4, 2016 08:52
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CommissarRed posted:Does anyone know of any sites aside from Bartertown or DakkaDakka where you can trade stuff? I have some Star Wars X-Wing miniatures and some board games i was hoping to unload for some fantasy miniatures or terrain, but haven't had much luck yet. I recently rounded out my board game collection through the many buy/sell groups on Facebook. No ebay fees and using PayPal I didn't get burnt. There's a couple of groups specifically for board games, another for X-wing, a few for 40K, etc.
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Jun 4, 2016 08:55
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Anyone in the thread have much experience with the Scale 75 Soil Works sets, are they any good? I've been liking their paints a lot so far but do not have much experience with any of their weathering stuff. I mostly use modelmates stuff but I don't actually own any weathering powders.
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Jun 4, 2016 11:21
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goodness posted:Any recommendations for reds and greens to pick up to look close to these? So far I have VMC Neutral Gray, VMC Carmine Red, and P3 Morrow White in my cart. VMC Emerald for the greenish parts.
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Jun 4, 2016 12:08
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GoodBee posted:
Liquitex is full-on artist grade canvas acrylic paint. I started getting it when I was doing a lot of make-up work, you mix it with prozade to make PAX, which is home made body paint. It does thin down nicely, but it dries to a gloss and is just really weird to use after using model paints. Michaels carries a full line, I'd recommend trying one of their metallics if you wanna check it out. As for paint comp chat, I've had a lot of experiences like you have. I just show up for fun now, same as a tourney or Apoc game. I've never won a painting competition, but like the Oath thread they are good pushing me out of my comfort zone and/or coming up with new ideas. I sent you a PM about getting together to push around some models.
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Jun 4, 2016 13:14
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Their flashing tongues, spitting out blood and poison.
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How do y'all glue in the clear plastic canopies? I normally just paint over them and skip the pilot, but with my Dark Eldar I'm really going for a slower and detailed army. The models are great, I wanna put in the extra effort. Normally I just use super glue for everything, but the fumes fog up the clear plastic.
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Jun 4, 2016 14:29
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malal posted:How do y'all glue in the clear plastic canopies? PVA glue is probably your best bet.
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Jun 4, 2016 14:43
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This guy's been great for blending practice so far. How white should I go with the tips of the bone stuff on this? I've been using varying blends of P3 Menoth Highlight and Agrax Earthshade
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Jun 4, 2016 15:09
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Pure white.
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Jun 4, 2016 15:26
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Will do! Looking forward to seeing what that looks like
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Jun 4, 2016 15:34
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malal posted:How do y'all glue in the clear plastic canopies? GuardianOfAsgaard posted:PVA glue is probably your best bet. I also recommend PVA glue. Testors does produce a plastic glue that is made specifically for clear canopies. I've never used it before so I can't speak from experience, but I've seen it at Michaels plenty of times.
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Jun 4, 2016 15:37
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Slimnoid posted:I also recommend PVA glue. Testors does produce a plastic glue that is made specifically for clear canopies. I've never used it before so I can't speak from experience, but I've seen it at Michaels plenty of times. PVA it is, I have a ton. Thanks y'all!
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Jun 4, 2016 15:57
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signalnoise posted:This guy's been great for blending practice so far. How white should I go with the tips of the bone stuff on this? I've been using varying blends of P3 Menoth Highlight and Agrax Earthshade I usually just go to bleached bone, but pure white has its place. A very light dry brush on the uppermost ridges will do. No need to get the 'lower' ridges at all with your final highlight.
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Jun 4, 2016 18:01
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signalnoise posted:I think I asked this question before but I didn't really get a response. I am better now than I used to be at painting fleshy or otherwise "natural" surfaces because I learned to do some layering, but the same technique doesn't make sense in my mind for painting large plates of flat texture, like armor plates or a vehicle. How do you go about your shading and highlighting on sci-fi when you don't really have a lot of recesses to work with, or if the recesses are all lines in an otherwise flat piece of material? Bumping this. My technique of painting, dumping quick shade, and highlights doesnt work very well on infinity models.
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Jun 4, 2016 21:56
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Pierzak posted:VMC Emerald for the greenish parts. That's a nice color. I'm looking to paint some model crystals similar to how those are painted. Kind of torn right now on hand picking paints vs. finding a good starter set. Singles I'll probably end up getting 7-9 at ~$3/bottle.
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Jun 4, 2016 22:25
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malal posted:How do y'all glue in the clear plastic canopies? Microscale Micro Krystal Klear is specifically for that job. It'll dry clear (one use is to make 'glass' in small windows) and should avoid the fogging, discolouration, and mess issues that other glues, including PVA, can cause with canopies.
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Jun 4, 2016 22:25
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Gapey Joe Stalin posted:Microscale Micro Krystal Klear is specifically for that job. It'll dry clear (one use is to make 'glass' in small windows) and should avoid the fogging, discolouration, and mess issues that other glues, including PVA, can cause with canopies. Where does one find this miracle product? Train stores or is a micromark product?
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Jun 4, 2016 22:27
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It's the same people who make Microsol and Microset, so anywhere that does them. I'd assume hobby stores, ebay, and Amazon.
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Jun 4, 2016 22:34
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signalnoise posted:I think I asked this question before but I didn't really get a response. I am better now than I used to be at painting fleshy or otherwise "natural" surfaces because I learned to do some layering, but the same technique doesn't make sense in my mind for painting large plates of flat texture, like armor plates or a vehicle. How do you go about your shading and highlighting on sci-fi when you don't really have a lot of recesses to work with, or if the recesses are all lines in an otherwise flat piece of material? Ehhhhhh. Smooth transitions on flat surfaces are amongst the hardest things to do. A lot of people use weathering or edge highlighting to add visual interest to a mostly flat surface. There's no special technique for blending on a large flat surface. It's just more difficult.
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Jun 4, 2016 22:57
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Would sparse Gorilla Glue be a terrible idea for sticking things to clear flight stands? I don't want to fog it with superglue, but I don't think PVA will have enough group. I've been using it for hybrid metal/plastic kits and the worst side effect seems to be that I occasionally need to trim the visible expanding foam.
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Jun 4, 2016 23:24
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Gareth Gobulcoque posted:Ehhhhhh. Smooth transitions on flat surfaces are amongst the hardest things to do. A lot of people use weathering or edge highlighting to add visual interest to a mostly flat surface. There's no special technique for blending on a large flat surface. It's just more difficult. Shuuuuuuucks Thanks for this. I think for a while I'm just going to do flat with a subtle edge highlight and slowly build up the layers on that. I don't see any way to manage this stuff in a quick way. Is there a go-to method for quickly painting sci-fi minis? I was thinking of blacklining but I fear loving it up
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Jun 4, 2016 23:24
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moths posted:Would sparse Gorilla Glue be a terrible idea for sticking things to clear flight stands? I don't want to fog it with superglue, but I don't think PVA will have enough group. I had better results not permanently affixing models to flying stands and just sticking the stands on when I used them. Before that, I drilled the holes in the models super deep and shoved the super way up in there. signalnoise posted:Shuuuuuuucks I did dark lining on some Eldar back in the day. Not always black, just a darker color. I'm thinking I'll do something similar if I ever decide on a paint scheme for my Infinity models and get around to painting them. I didn't the greatest job but it looked really nice on the table. I think I can do a better job taking more time with fewer Infinity models.
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Jun 4, 2016 23:33
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Got another question for you guys in regard to my airbrush. It is a Badger Sotar 20/20. It came with two needles, one in the gun, one in a protector, and from what I can tell, they both have black ends, so they are both fine needles, correct? More importantly, it came with a second regulator tip, this one with wings, but I don't know what type it is. Does anyone know what the extra head is? jadebullet fucked around with this message at 03:20 on Jun 5, 2016 |
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Jun 5, 2016 00:17
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Large, flat surfaces are great for two-brush wet-blending. You can get some really nice color gradients this way. In addition to wear/weathering/edge effects, if you want to add visual interest to an otherwise boring, flat surface, you might want to try "Non-Metallic Metal" (shorthanded to NMM on most painting fora). A quick Google Image search will show you all sorts of examples and tutorials. It's more difficult to pull off - if done well the effect can be stunning, but done badly it looks like crap.
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Jun 5, 2016 03:31
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krushgroove posted:Also, you don't mention using stainless steel ball bearings, so I hope you did that, don't want your paints ruined from rust. Oh god loving drat it. I bought 200 quarter-inch ball bearings from a seller on eBay last week and they're chromium. I wish I had seen this post sooner.
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Jun 5, 2016 17:45
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Star Man posted:Oh god loving drat it. I bought 200 quarter-inch ball bearings from a seller on eBay last week and they're chromium. I wish I had seen this post sooner. At least you haven't put them in the paint yet? Chromium is what makes stainless steel not rust, so maybe it won't rust itself.
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Jun 5, 2016 17:50
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goodness posted:At least you haven't put them in the paint yet? They won't arrive in my mailbox until tomorrow. I have no idea what I'm going to do with them now.
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Jun 5, 2016 17:51
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Buy a pachinko machine! [edit] Wait, those are 11m balls
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Jun 5, 2016 17:52
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For what it's worth, I've found that 8mm hematite beads work really well. They're pretty dense, and 8mm should just fit inside 17mL dropper bottles. I bought a few packs of these: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00J9F8ILU
Avenging Dentist fucked around with this message at 19:03 on Jun 5, 2016 |
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Jun 5, 2016 18:57
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Avenging Dentist posted:For what it's worth, I've found that 8mm hematite beads work really well. They're pretty dense, and 8mm should just fit inside 17mL dropper bottles. I bought a few packs of these: https://www.amazon.com/B00J9F8ILU  I found the page, don't worry. Your link's just busted is all
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Jun 5, 2016 19:02
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I fixed the URL. For completeness, I suppose I should say that I haven't done extensive tests with hematite, but 1) hematite is already ferric oxide, so it shouldn't rust; and 2) I left some hematite in a glass of salt water for a few weeks and noticed no discoloration (whereas BBs rusted in about a day). None of my paint appears discolored either, and it's been about 8 months. Avenging Dentist fucked around with this message at 19:06 on Jun 5, 2016 |
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Jun 5, 2016 19:04
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Plastic BBs for airsoft guns are my go-to for paint agitators. That, and the pewter tabs under the feet of some models.
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Jun 5, 2016 19:43
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Chromium won't rust so they'll be fine to use.
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Jun 5, 2016 19:46
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