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So my alternators on its way out in the protégé. Any particular brands to avoid for replacement? 13 years, 110k miles and a good 6 batteries, not a bad lifetime for the original one.
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Jun 4, 2016 17:41
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some texas redneck posted:https://www.myswedishparts.com - I believe they're able to key the new lock cylinder to match your existing keys if you send them the VIN. Door lock cylinder.
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Jun 4, 2016 19:07
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Had the safety inspection on my 94 saturn sl2 come back saying the front driver's side balljoint was loose. Said he could tell it'd been replaced recently, but it had play in it and none was allowed. I just replaced both lower control arms last year, so I said I'd take a look at it. I have no idea what he's talking about. The wheel won't move at all in any direction (except rotation obv) and the balljoint on the LCA looks fine to me. The castle nut was finger-loose, I might not have cranked it down all the way when I reinstalled it last year. I popped the balljoint clear of the steering knuckle and the balljoint did not seem loose or hand-movable at all. The rubber boot is intact and free of cracks. Any ideas what he might have been talking about? I retightened the castle nut and put the cotter pin back in. Uncle Enzo fucked around with this message at 20:22 on Jun 4, 2016 |
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Jun 4, 2016 20:16
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Enourmo posted:So my alternators on its way out in the protégé. Any particular brands to avoid for replacement? Nab one from whatever parts store will give you a lifetime warranty without a hassle. Any reman has some level of risk. '05 avalanche 1500 What are my options for replacing a steering wheel and retaining steering wheel controls and an airbag? I know grant has a few options that look decent without being to "OMGRACE CAR STEERING WHEEL", but I seem to recall something about their steering wheels being complete poo poo in the event of an accident. Am I stuck hunting for a halfway decent one out of a junkyard?
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Jun 5, 2016 01:43
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Look up diagrams. Chevy is so lazy I wouldn't be surprised if you could change out to any GM vehicles.
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Jun 5, 2016 02:03
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Father Jack posted:I got a set of 4 195/55V15 CrossClimates and kept the best of the cheap but newish 185s as spare in the end. Thanks for the advice folks. I've had this thing for awhile and it works off 12v and has a regular US plug. Digital gauge that goes in .5 PSI increments, can also inflate balls, etc. https://www.amazon.com/Kobalt-Electric-Compressor-Portable-Inflator/dp/B00KK5RINC
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Jun 5, 2016 02:17
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Does it really matter what type of brake pads I buy? For example the local parts store has them listed Wearever Sliver - 19.99 Wearever Gold - 39.99 Wearever Platinum - 51.99 I don't really care what they sound like the in the studio I just want to have the best quality for my application brake pads. Also do the recharge kits for AC's work or is that something you should really have a professional do? When I was in Automotive school you needed a special certification for it Thanks!
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Jun 5, 2016 04:37
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No, what matters is you install them correctly. The AC recharge kits work if your system is low on charge and doesn't have a horrendously large leak somewhere. If the leak is really bad, you're just dumping all that refrigerant out. If something else is broken, it still won't work anyway.
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Jun 5, 2016 04:53
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Its likely tiered as the cheapest being organics/poor quality semi-metallics, the next being whatever was oe on your vehicle and the top being a decent quality ceramic. Usually you can see some lettering on the back of the pad indicating the cold and hot performance of the pads. But basically, pay for a decent ceramic and they'll last longer than a cheap organic, be quieter and stop much better. Edit: I least assuming advance does it similar to us. Elmnt80 fucked around with this message at 05:33 on Jun 5, 2016 |
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Jun 5, 2016 05:30
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With Advance/Wearever, Platinum is almost always (maybe always) ceramic. You're right in that Gold is their OE equivalent, and it can be semi-metallic or ceramic. Silver is generally organic. Semi-metallic and ceramic are both good upgrades from an organic pad. I think semi-metallic provides the best performance, but doesn't last as long as ceramic? Someone please correct me if I'm wrong on that. I'm about to do pads and rotors on my car myself - there's nothing to indicate the pads are worn, but I bought the cheapest pads on Rockauto at the time (NASCAR!!! labeled Raybestos organics, they're so cheap that they don't even have the little metal wear indicator), and all it takes is one good stop from highway speeds to make them completely worthless for a bit. I'm on the fence between semi-metallic and ceramic myself...
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Jun 5, 2016 05:56
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Ceramics provide a better all around performance and last longer with a good quality semi-metallic only being better for heavy duty applications like towing by reason of retaining less heat. If they are raybestos or wagner, they have a part number on the back of the pad that ends in two letters. The first letter is the coefficient of friction while cold, the second is the hot measurement. A is the lowest, with the coefficient increasing as you go up the alphabet. This is all according to the educational bullshit that raybestos, bosch. wagner and pfc put out for us, so take it as you will.  Edit: I'm a few beer deep so I may double check this tomorrow. Elmnt80 fucked around with this message at 06:14 on Jun 5, 2016 |
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Jun 5, 2016 06:08
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Let's say you do lots of spirited driving on very steep roads daily, can any of you guesstimate at how much longer ceramics will last? Is it just like 10% more miles or like 50%?
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Jun 5, 2016 15:25
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Pryor on Fire posted:Let's say you do lots of spirited driving on very steep roads daily, can any of you guesstimate at how much longer ceramics will last? Is it just like 10% more miles or like 50%? I've put a lot of both in different customers cars. It really depends on how hard you drive on them. I have old people who put on low end pads that last till they crack from old age. Then I have customers who are driving like it's NASCAR and wear out ceramics in a year and the cheap pads in months. Ceramics are worth the money because they give the best of both worlds and aren't that much more(in most applications).
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Jun 5, 2016 15:50
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I put some nice Akebono ceramics on my civic front and they are the NUTS. Awesome pads.
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Jun 5, 2016 16:44
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bikesonyx posted:Also do the recharge kits for AC's work or is that something you should really have a professional do? When I was in Automotive school you needed a special certification for it Please read the first post: http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3616944
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Jun 5, 2016 17:44
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Has anyone had success with a particular brand of scratch/paint chip repair? I was looking at "color n drive" despite the somewhat sketchy sounding name. I have a pretty large sized couple, one about roughly a quarter, so it seems like a pen would not be the best solution from what I've read. They all appear to have gone right down to the undercoat/bare metal, I can post pictures of the chips if that would help. The car is an '05 red Celica with pretty decent paint overall other than the 4-5 chips. Thanks in advance pals.
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Jun 5, 2016 23:55
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My wife parked my car under a pine tree in hundred degree heat today. Is there an effective way to get all that sap off that won't ruin the paint? Edit: I have seen rubbing alcohol and some product by turtle wax (bug and tar remover) suggested. Is either one better? therobit fucked around with this message at 03:33 on Jun 6, 2016 |
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Jun 6, 2016 03:11
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Quote is not edit
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Jun 6, 2016 03:32
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therobit posted:My wife parked my car under a pine tree in hundred degree heat today. Is there an effective way to get all that sap off that won't ruin the paint? Something like goo gone should work well. It will take a long rear end time to get all the spots though. That's what we'd use to get sap off of tents when I used to work in tent rental.
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Jun 6, 2016 05:28
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I have a really dumb question but I'm hoping AI can help me out with. I'm working on relocating my battery to the trunk in my car. Car is a 1998 Nissan 240sx. I want to route the cable under the car and followed along with what MotoIQ did here: http://www.motoiq.com/MagazineArticles/ID/1426/PageID/1743/The-Hows-and-Whys-of-Battery-Relocation.aspx From reading it seems like the best way to do this is on the frame rail opposite side of the fuel and brake lines using insulated hose clamps. Dumb question: How do folks usually attach these hose clamps to the frame rail? I don't have access to tighten a nut to a bolt from the other side as the frame rail is enclosed. Do people just drill a hole and run a bolt thru and the threads grabbing on to the metal of the frame rail enough to hold? I've thought about rivnuts but I've heard those can end up just spinning in the hole they're installed in?  Here's a pic of another 240's underside to get an idea of the situation. That person ran their battery cable thru the frame rail, but they've had to cut holes somewhere to get that cable in there as the frame rails are enclosed at both ends.
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Jun 6, 2016 18:20
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Tunicate posted:I've got a 16-year-old toyota sienna, and recently whenever it rains the right hand part of the footwell on the passenger side gets flooded. Nowhere else. Trombone scrubber is too thick for those. Guitar strings are good for getting started if you can't make headway with air. I used a bike pump nozzle then moved up to a slightly larger blower fitting when I did my friends. You could also drill a hole in a bouncy ball and stick it over the end of your blower. Silly putty works pretty well too.
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Jun 6, 2016 19:12
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therobit posted:My wife parked my car under a pine tree in hundred degree heat today. Is there an effective way to get all that sap off that won't ruin the paint? Hand sanitizer
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Jun 6, 2016 19:25
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Coredump posted:I have a really dumb question but I'm hoping AI can help me out with. I'm working on relocating my battery to the trunk in my car. Car is a 1998 Nissan 240sx. I want to route the cable under the car and followed along with what MotoIQ did here: http://www.motoiq.com/MagazineArticles/ID/1426/PageID/1743/The-Hows-and-Whys-of-Battery-Relocation.aspx From reading it seems like the best way to do this is on the frame rail opposite side of the fuel and brake lines using insulated hose clamps. Dumb question: How do folks usually attach these hose clamps to the frame rail? I don't have access to tighten a nut to a bolt from the other side as the frame rail is enclosed. Do people just drill a hole and run a bolt thru and the threads grabbing on to the metal of the frame rail enough to hold? I've thought about rivnuts but I've heard those can end up just spinning in the hole they're installed in? I would imagine a small hole a little ways in front of the suspension wouldn't cause too much structural issues. I would not do it anywhere near that though.
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Jun 7, 2016 02:50
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Just got back from an interstate road trip in a rental, and there was so much bug splatter and debris on the front of the car that I'm actually worried about getting billed for damages. Are there any sorts of one-time use clearbra type products that I can use next time to prevent this? Will just saran wrap with vent holes cut out work? EDIT: Did some more research, looks like some people use 3" wide painter's tape for this. Is that finish safe? Chuu fucked around with this message at 03:20 on Jun 7, 2016 |
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Jun 7, 2016 03:16
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Chuu posted:EDIT: Did some more research, looks like some people use 3" wide painter's tape for this. Is that finish safe? Worst case scenario is you leave it on for a long time, the glue breaks down and turns into a sticky mess when you pull the tape off, and you have to use goo-gone or similar to remove it.
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Jun 7, 2016 04:12
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It's a rental. Has anyone ever been billed for bug splatter in a rental?
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Jun 7, 2016 06:15
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If you're that worried about it, run it through a tunnel car wash (not a touchless). The cheapest option is usually around $5.
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Jun 7, 2016 06:52
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IOwnCalculus posted:It's a rental. Has anyone ever been billed for bug splatter in a rental? I drove 1000 miles in it, and it's ridiculously bad. If it was my personal car whoever borrowed it would be paying for a detail -- lots of it is just stuck on and embedded enough that I would be worried about the cheap finish. I got off what I could at a gas station with the windshield wiper; but it still looked hideous. The fact it was a white car from Alamo doesn't help -- Alamo is notorious for making money in the repair department and since it's white every embedded bit sticks out. If it was my local place I'd be a lot more worried, thankfully I got it from a major airport which is a lot more lax about this things. Chuu fucked around with this message at 07:11 on Jun 7, 2016 |
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Jun 7, 2016 07:07
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Have you tried calling them and asking about their policy on such matters?
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Jun 7, 2016 14:17
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Chuu posted:Just got back from an interstate road trip in a rental, and there was so much bug splatter and debris on the front of the car that I'm actually worried about getting billed for damages. They clean it with a pressure washer. You're going to be fine. It is reasonable wear and tear for the front of the car to get covered in road crud. You just happened to have 1,000 miles of it, not the usual 50 miles of it. If they try to charge you for damage you can keep the car for an hour and go wash it yourself. Make a stink though, demand they wash it right in front of you. If the paint is actually missing after that then maybe they have a claim.
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Jun 7, 2016 14:23
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IOwnCalculus posted:It's a rental. Has anyone ever been billed for bug splatter in a rental? You can wash your own loving car tyvm. I'm paying to rent it, it's a whole lotta your problem. You better just hope I don't come back with it tarred and feathered.
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Jun 7, 2016 15:44
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I've returned rentals caked in mud up to and including the door glass, you'll be fine.
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Jun 7, 2016 16:11
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Question for you all in case anyone has been in similar situation. I bought a car for the wife and traded in her old car that had a custom university license plate. In Oklahoma the registered plates stay with the vehicle. Three weeks later the dealer says they need us to provide the original Oklahoma plate, the one before my wife swapped it out with a custom one. They also said this original plate must have current registration. All I can find online is that custom/personalized plates stay with the vehicle when it's sold unless a plate transfer is filed, which we did not do. Nothing about maintaining two registered plates. My first inclination is to tell the dealer to go pound sand. But before I speak with the tag office, or the dealer, I wanted to ask the internet for advice. Beelzebub fucked around with this message at 17:41 on Jun 7, 2016 |
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Jun 7, 2016 17:36
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I think you're correct, but call the tag agency.
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Jun 8, 2016 00:17
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Bovril Delight posted:I've returned rentals caked in mud up to and including the door glass, you'll be fine. Yeah it's like hiring a tuxedo. The cost includes dry cleaning it, so spilling beer down the front of it is actually immaterial to the treatment of the garment.
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Jun 8, 2016 01:13
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Here's my AI Stupid Question. *My 2006 E90* had about 6-7 gallons of rainwater on the passenger side floor of the driving compartment yesterday morning after a particularly drenching rainstorm in here in northern Florida the night before. Neither the sunroof or any of the windows were open or cracked, and I'd never had a leak. I checked the cabin air intake and - you'll be surprised, I'm sure - there were so many leaves, branches, pollen residue clusters, and other assorted debris clogging up the filter area that I am reasonably sure that the water just got into the cabin that way. So, that got cleaned out and it shouldn't be a problem going forward. It had never been a problem before, either; but I'm glad I checked the cabin intake because it was truly ridiculously clogged. However, there is the matter of the water in the cabin...it is only on the passenger side. I shop-vaced about 6 gallons out. the floor in front of the front seat is relatively dried out by now, but the floor in front of the back seat was, as of this morning, still feeling soaked if you press your fingers / hand into the carpet. After the shop-vac wouldn't get out any more water last night, I'd pressed a towel into that area and sucked out that way as much as I could. I repeated the towel process this morning. Today is dry & sunny, so my windows & sunroof are cracked open while my car is parked on a hot blacktop parking lot in the sun. I suspect that most of the water will be out by the time I leave work. The problem is that I don't have the tools to pull out the front seat so that I can get under the carpet and make sure all the padding underneath gets dried out, and I have no way of getting at the carpet under the seat at all with the seat still in the car. I don't have a garage, and so leaving the car open with fans blowing on it all night isn't an option. Is there anything else I can be doing (short of buying the tools to pull the seat) to make sure I don't get mildew / odors from residual dampness under the carpet? I do have a carpet cleaning scheduled for next week, but I obviously want to take care of the water before then. Thanks in advance! KaiserSchnitzel fucked around with this message at 19:11 on Jun 8, 2016 |
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Jun 8, 2016 19:08
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What tools do you need? It's probably just something like torx sockets and a ratchet. You can try to angle a fan blowing under the seat, but I wouldn't bet the farm on it working.
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Jun 8, 2016 23:26
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Godholio posted:What tools do you need? It's probably just something like torx sockets and a ratchet. You can try to angle a fan blowing under the seat, but I wouldn't bet the farm on it working. That's exactly what it is. I'm just hoping there's something else I can do. Unfortunately, even after baking in the sun all day with the windows cracked the front was still noticeably damp (not soaked), but the back was entirely soaked through as if somebody came in and dumped a gallon of water on the floor just to piss me off. I shop-vaced it out again when I got home, but I can tell that I'm going to have to bite the bullet and get those torx bits, pull my seat out, pull the carpet, suck out all the excess water (which, I'm sure, is about two pints at most by now) and take a hot air gun to the carpet & the matting under the carpet. In Florida it's just so goddamned humid there's no chance of that carpet drying  Any tricks would be appreciated...assume at this point that I'm going to pull the seat out, because it's really not a ridiculous task to do so. Just a pain in the rear end.
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Jun 8, 2016 23:48
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I just changed struts on our '06 Escape, and didn't realize the top strut mounts were clocked for castor/camber adjustment until I had already gotten both out without noting their position. I found these charts, and I'm hoping to figure out which positions would be "neutral factory setting," so that I have the best chance of passing an alignment check (so I dont have to pay for adjustment) I chose positions #1 and #8 based only on a hunch and the wording of the charts. How'd I do?  
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Jun 9, 2016 01:07
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How much do you like buying tires 2-4x as often and having it handle funny?
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Jun 9, 2016 02:28
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