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Well, the day after slicing out my power steering belt (fluid dumped, needed to drive, couldn't diagnose/fix at home), I think I just fried my clutch. At least, I hope it's the clutch. Meant to shift 3->2 instead of 3->4, and now gears 1-3 are pretty much useless. Engine revs fine, but car just vaguely kinda goes forward and there's a pitiful whirring/whining noise. Was able to limp home from the canyons, but anyone behind me at a stop hated me. How bad did I gently caress up? (e30 325ix)
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Jun 6, 2016 01:17
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| # ? May 26, 2024 09:45 |
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Does it go into 1st gear from a stop with the clutch down? Clutch isn't bad. 3->4 won't hurt anything ever. Does it go into all gears or does it feel mushy? That would point to the shift selector rod.
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Jun 6, 2016 02:48
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It seems to be going into gear as normal, feels normal, but when I rev the engine something isn't catching. Throttle still works, just to a fraction of normal effect. Like, from a stop I had to go into first, barely get moving, any higher than maybe 3000 rpm the whirring was too high to bear, second for just long enough to get to third, getting up to speed after about a 1/2 a block.
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Jun 6, 2016 03:03
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Is there a smell? It's not the clutch.
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Jun 6, 2016 03:11
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BlackMK4 posted:Is there a smell? It's not the clutch. Yeah there was some burning smell, forgot to mention that important detail.
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Jun 6, 2016 03:13
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Have you ever had vibration when taking off from a stop? I'd almost guess you tore the guibo.
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Jun 6, 2016 03:15
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BlackMK4 posted:Have you ever had vibration when taking off from a stop? I'd almost guess you tore the guibo. Not that I've noticed... Gonna email a shop and see if I can get it towed there wednesday.
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Jun 6, 2016 03:20
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Mk4, have you ever seen a guibo go catastrophically on a non-track car though? I mean, sure, he was canyon carving but, generally, they go slowly. That said, if it isn't the CSB and guibo being turbofucked, that's super weird, although it may be related to the fuckery involved with the e30 -ix, cause I'm flummoxed.
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Jun 6, 2016 05:08
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Nope, but I really can't think of what it would be otherwise.  I have heard of guibo bolts sheering but...
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Jun 6, 2016 07:24
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BraveUlysses posted:M42 question: check for vacuum leaks, then check the fuel delivery and spark. treat it like you're dealing with an idle issue, diagnostic's basically the same except i'd suspect fuel more than spark. especially if you're 100% sure it's a stumble and not misfire. take a look at everything and bust out the bentley manual for individual diagnostics. common culprits are similar to an idle issue. vac leaks (carb cleaner bath should catch it if you google m42 common vacuum leaks or just check everything; i only know the m20 ones off the top of my head. definitely check any metal elbow fittings on your throttle body.) sticky throttle body (set it to WOT and release quickly, in addition to regular tests to replicate condition. check for smoothness of motion.) fuel pump on the way out fuel pump relay on the way out fuel filter bad FPR rust/dirt/etc in fuel tank intermittendly or partially clogged fuel pump filter intermittently or partially clogged injector AFM/MAF, TPS, air filter, and such lovely gas spark intermittent misfires can also easily be mistaken for an off-throttle stumble. worth testing if you feel like you're chasing invisible gremlins. especially before you consider bigger problems. - test fuel pressure at rail on idle and various conditions - go through your best friend the bentley manual for individual diagnosis of all the common culprits above if you can't narrow it down with a fuel pressure test. - injector flow test if fuel pressure at rail is good (may not register since you test at idle. think about it; throttle could be disturbing a piece of dirt inside injector. cutting fuel pressure moves it to block injector for a split second. very possible. test multiple times if you get to this point. also consider that you may not be able to replicate condition at idle.) i had the same symptom on my m20, ended up solving itself when i fixed that no-start a while back. not sure which part fixed it; i fixed all the vacuum leaks and replaced most of the fuel&spark systems for the sake of preventative maintenance since it had just rolled over 250k. i'd consider taking the "test expensive stuff, replace everything cheap and easy" approach since these cars are old and it's good peace of mind for a very reasonable investment. feels good not to have to worry about vac leaks and such. i'd also replace your fuel pump and filter just because if you don't know what year it was last done (mileage doesn't matter so much as how many hours it's been ran or if any other issue has overly-stressed it during its life.) pretty good time to replace fuel lines while you're in there too! there are other possible causes but start here before thinking about digging into the motor. smoke test to make sure the carb cleaner test didn't miss any vac leaks before looking deeper than anything idle related. also very possible i missed something. seems like a lot of stuff but if you take a systematic approach and are familiar with disassembling your motor peripherals you can easily diagnose in a couple hours. read through all the tests in advance and make sure you have everything you'll need on hand. make sure your fuel pressure gauge will hook up to your rail without any fitting wizardry before you set aside time to test it. wouldn't mind lending you a hand either as long it's within the next few weeks; i'll be busy moving come July. Tashan Dorrsett fucked around with this message at 09:38 on Jun 6, 2016 |
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Jun 6, 2016 08:31
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Just an FYI for my fellow M54 owners: vacuum can leak horribly through the oil dipstick tube o-ring if it's bad.
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Jun 6, 2016 12:48
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FYI to e30 owners, e30 vert springs in the front and e36 vert springs with spacers in the rear give you this
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Jun 6, 2016 17:57
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Well, I got my E90 jacked up to try to figure out what was making noise. Both front wheels move side-to-side a little bit, but I don't know if there's any normal amount of travel they're supposed to do. i think the left one moved when tried to shake it vertically as well, but I'm not positive. I think I may end up taking it somewhere for a better diagnoses.
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Jun 6, 2016 18:36
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Welp just got my suspension looked at since I've been to discount tires 7 times for radial pull diagnosis and gotten nowhere. Confirmed 100% that there's a bad tire on the car, but I also found out one of my front struts is bent and my LCA bushes are toast. Strut is repairable but I haven't gotten an estimate yet. Switching everything to poly bushings is an obvious answer to the LCA issue for me, but with the strut would you guys replace, repair, or aftermarket? Bent strut is a stock IS strut with about 30k on it. I have time to save up for a suspension overhaul budget if need be, it's not super bent and the LCA bushing issue cancels a lot of it out so all it's really going to do is chew up my cheap tires. from a daily driving perspective, at least. Also, 10000% recommending tru-line in Bellevue/Seattle. a+ experience with them, super knowledgeable staff and their rates were very competitive with a lovely tire shop alignment. In my case it actually cost less because they only billed for a partial hour without even having to ask. Gave me a really good rundown of my suspension issues and exactly how the affected my car in a way i feel non-car nerds would easily understand. Now I understand why it took 2 weeks to get an appointment and why all my friends take their track cars there. Tashan Dorrsett fucked around with this message at 21:46 on Jun 6, 2016 |
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Jun 6, 2016 21:22
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365 Nog Hogger posted:Not that I've noticed... Gonna email a shop and see if I can get it towed there wednesday. Make sure you get it flatbedded.
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Jun 6, 2016 23:20
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Crustashio posted:Make sure you get it flatbedded. Of course, hopefully I can have AAA drop it off without me so I don't have to miss work.
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Jun 6, 2016 23:32
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The last time I got my e28 towed they (AAA) used these dollies with 12" trailer wheels on them for the rear wheels so they didn't touch the ground
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Jun 7, 2016 00:01
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dollies are the best but a stockish e28 should have no problem clearing a flatbed
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Jun 7, 2016 02:15
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Jun 7, 2016 05:31
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Baller.
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Jun 7, 2016 05:38
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rolling up to take your daughters virginity
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Jun 7, 2016 10:22
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Tashan Dorrsett posted:rolling up to take your daughters virginity Not with that facial hair.
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Jun 7, 2016 11:55
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 Kind of bummed I didn't run the dragon with you guys but running it wet in the 928 would have been lovely
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Jun 7, 2016 12:57
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So, the diagnosis on my E90 is a bad right front wheel bearing. I know there's guides out there for replacing it myself. Anything to watch out for, or any reason I can't do it in my driveway? Is it better to go ahead and just replace both from bearings at the same time?
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Jun 7, 2016 21:24
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Strong recommend to go ahead and do 'em both. Brakes and suspension arms would be a good While You're In There, if you're feeling that you need any of that stuff, just be aware you may need to limp it to an alignment shop if you go that deep. Just doing the bearings at home is 100% fine though.
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Jun 8, 2016 03:52
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The most amazing thing is that the 928 actually made it without breaking down! 
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Jun 10, 2016 00:03
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Tashan Dorrsett posted:dollies are the best but a stockish e28 should have no problem clearing a flatbed  It's not super low but the last time I had it flat bedded my tail pipes scraped a little bit
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Jun 10, 2016 00:19
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365 Nog Hogger posted:Well, the day after slicing out my power steering belt (fluid dumped, needed to drive, couldn't diagnose/fix at home), I think I just fried my clutch. At least, I hope it's the clutch. Called up the shop today, they've only taken a look but already found the problem: front driverside axle, uh, came out? Like, not connected. So that explains why I was still getting *some* power to the wheels, the diff was doing its thing to the best of its abilities. They're gonna pull it tomorrow and see if it's broken or not. Really hoping not, because these are ix specific and the people who used to rebuild them are all out of business, so I would either have to comb forums/ebay/etc for one or pay $1400 for a new one from BMW. yaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaay
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Jun 10, 2016 03:06
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Party Alarm posted:The most amazing thing is that the 928 actually made it without breaking down! No poo poo, you probably didn't see all the tools and tow strap in the back seat. Now to flush the coolant and sell the stupid thing so my next E30 can have the garage space.
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Jun 10, 2016 11:53
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365 Nog Hogger posted:Called up the shop today, they've only taken a look but already found the problem: front driverside axle, uh, came out? Like, not connected. So that explains why I was still getting *some* power to the wheels, the diff was doing its thing to the best of its abilities. They're gonna pull it tomorrow and see if it's broken or not. Really hoping not, because these are ix specific and the people who used to rebuild them are all out of business, so I would either have to comb forums/ebay/etc for one or pay $1400 for a new one from BMW. yaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaay ahahaha. Sorry, but goddamn. Yeah, the diff is probably toast, most AWD systems are sensitive to stuff like that. You should just convert it back to god's chariot and make it RWD if it is toast.
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Jun 10, 2016 13:59
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In prepping for the track, I've decided to run a square setup on my Z4MC - 9.5" front / rear with 265s all round. This, it turns out, requires running -2* or more of camber in the front, which requires camber plates. Buying camber plates to use with 10 year old suspension seems ridiculous, but I don't want to pay $3k for KW V3s that by all accounts aren't great on the track. So I've been shopping around a bit, and have run across Ground Control. Are Ground Control as awesome as they look / sound? Because $1,800 for (1-way adjustable, but that's alright) Koni coilovers with camber plates and spring rates to order (I'm thinking of running 550 front / 650 rear) sounds pretty drat good to me. And if I'm going to refresh the suspension, well drat, GC also makes some kick-rear end looking swaybars... ahem. Anybody run Ground Control kit on their BMW? Good / bad experience? Is the company good to deal with? As high quality as it looks on the Internets? Because I will buy the poo poo out of this setup and be happy as hell if it is good stuff.  (Current wheel selection: in on the Apex 18" EC-7 group buy, so 4x EC-7 in18x9 ET35 and 12mm spacers in the rear. And a stud conversion, because gently caress wheel bolts) Also: planning to run Pilot Super Sports because the car is still street driven too. This seems to be a highly-regarded dual use tire, but I'm definitely open to input here too.
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Jun 10, 2016 17:33
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V3s are pretty good. PSS' have soft sidewalls and aren't brilliant on track. Also you should really really consider aggressive geo. it doesn't wear your tyres too badly as long as you dial out the toe. You're not going to be making the most of a square setup without it. I've never seen that brand over here but good luck.
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Jun 10, 2016 17:38
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Ground Control stuff is known to be good in E30 circles, and GC/Koni set up is usually pretty decent. I can't speak for the Z4MC though.
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Jun 10, 2016 17:51
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I've run GC stuff on three cars now. You're not going to beat the setup without spending another $800-1k ontop of the GC price. It's very good and no frills. Beating the price on the simple adjuster + camber plate kit is really hard to do, also.
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Jun 10, 2016 18:37
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I've had GC's on my e30 since 2010. Love em!
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Jun 10, 2016 18:42
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GC is good poo poo for what you pay for them.
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Jun 10, 2016 18:55
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Bape Culture posted:PSS' have soft sidewalls and aren't brilliant on track. Odd, I never thought my PSSes had soft sidewalls. They certainly were stiffer than RS3s. I vote Dunlop Z2SS. Not the fastest uber street tire, but the sidewalls are good, and you can flip them on the rim if you get a lot of camber wear. Something you can't do with PSSes or Rivals. RE71Rs are good and flippable and super sticky, but I don't think their sidewalls are that stiff.
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Jun 10, 2016 20:21
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I'll toss in another vote for GC being good poo poo. Have it on the E21 and have driven a few E30 and E36's prepped with GC stuff. In your case I'd be tempted to just toss in some camber plates but I'm not sure what your experience level is or anything. Keep in mind ideally once the coil-overs are installed you'll want someone to corner balance the car to get it close to setup then you'll spend some time really dialing things in. So worth it in the end but not as straight forward as tossing in sport shocks, springs and camber plates.
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Jun 10, 2016 21:29
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I went with TCKline for my M3 but only because they had stock when my friend was in the US. They're both good and basically the goto suspension for that budget. Once you get into the 3k+ range there are much better options than konis but GC is bar none the best budget setup for most BMWs (and lots of other makes too).Ziploc posted:Odd, I never thought my PSSes had soft sidewalls. They certainly were stiffer than RS3s. I vote Dunlop Z2SS. Not the fastest uber street tire, but the sidewalls are good, and you can flip them on the rim if you get a lot of camber wear. Something you can't do with PSSes or Rivals. RE71Rs are good and flippable and super sticky, but I don't think their sidewalls are that stiff. You can flip rivals, but lose what little rain performance they have. PSS supposedly have different compounds on the inside/outside but I have run them flipped and they were OK for street driving. They chunked badly at the track though (before flipping), kept them on the street after that.
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Jun 11, 2016 00:53
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| # ? May 26, 2024 09:45 |
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SuperDucky posted:ahahaha. Sorry, but goddamn. Yeah, the diff is probably toast, most AWD systems are sensitive to stuff like that. You should just convert it back to god's chariot and make it RWD if it is toast. If the diff is indeed toast I honestly don't know what I'll do. Yank the suspension components I just installed and part it out? I live in an apartment in LA, a project car is out of the question, and there's no way in hell I could afford to have someone else do it (replacing the axle is as far as I could go).
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Jun 11, 2016 04:53
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