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Fast_Food_Knight posted:Started painting Infinity: Operation Icestorm. An excuse to try out & practice wet blending, interested in c&c. Don't try and wet blend tiny infinity surfaces. Wet blending is great on big open surfaces, but it's really imprecise and fiddly on small areas. That's a recipe for frustration. Layer up with thinned paint then glaze down with your mid tone to bring everything together. Then if you want to reclaim highlights and shadows with additional glazes. That said those look totally dece. The Red looks better, but that's to be expected. Blue is the omg gently caress blending color. Gareth Gobulcoque fucked around with this message at 12:14 on Jun 8, 2016 |
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Jun 8, 2016 12:12
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It really is. I should probably glaze the blue armour portions to try and tone down the brush strokes. That said it didn't seem too fiddly, when you are doing most of a model with a select pallette, it wasn't too bad
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Jun 8, 2016 13:55
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Gareth Gobulcoque posted:Don't try and wet blend tiny infinity surfaces. Wet blending is great on big open surfaces, but it's really imprecise and fiddly on small areas. That's a recipe for frustration. Yeah I'm p sure Giraldez does many layers for his official infinity pieces too. I've tried blending them myself but they really are too tiny to do it.
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Jun 8, 2016 14:08
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After half year break from 40k I got a game in last weekend. I had fun and I was inspired to drag out my paints and get some work done on my converted Hellhound. She's still missing all the squadron markings and that sort of stuff, I'm still thinking about the exact details. Here she is:   I've ruined my "best" drybrushing brush, so I experimented with a sponge instead. I worked surprisingly well on those big flat sides. Anyway, I just wanted to show off my new long range deep frier. Apologies for the image quality, I'll try to take pictures in better lighting when the markings are done.
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Jun 8, 2016 14:23
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Painted up my captain for Frostgrave last night. I originally started out the armor going for NMM gold, but it ended up being more of a dull bone color and I decided to keep it.   Still not completely done. I need to touch up the back of the shield and the pommel of the sword. I also need to seal it with a clear coat, then hit it with a matte varnish to remove the shine. Does anyone have a good guide on NMM Gold guide or recipe? Zuul the Cat fucked around with this message at 16:25 on Jun 8, 2016 |
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Jun 8, 2016 16:17
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CommissarRed posted:Does anyone have a good guide on NMM Gold or recipe?  If anyone has recipes for vallejo colors, I'm specifically looking for those but any are good.
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Jun 8, 2016 16:23
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Chill la Chill posted:
I should point out I am also looking for Vallejo ones, although i have some P3 paints and some citadel.
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Jun 8, 2016 16:25
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Biostrip update. It causes FW resin to go rubbery and soft, as expected. Still works perfectly on metal and plastic. I still need to find some unwanted finecast to test with.
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Jun 8, 2016 16:27
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TTerrible posted:Biostrip update. This implies that finecast was ever wanted
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Jun 8, 2016 16:29
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Iron Crowned posted:This implies that finecast was ever wanted This is why I'm struggling to find any.
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Jun 8, 2016 16:32
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I had some FW resin go rubbery in meths it does eventually harden up again
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Jun 8, 2016 16:52
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Skarsnik posted:I had some FW resin go rubbery in meths  to  in no time.tee-hee
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Jun 8, 2016 18:17
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Chill la Chill posted:
I like the scibor tutorial.
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Jun 8, 2016 19:09
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Fuegan posted:Oath is coming along nicely. Since it's a one-off model, I wanted to have a crack at some blending as well as the usual edge highlights. Happy with the progress so far! I bleed with envy. That's some top-flight blending work.
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Jun 8, 2016 19:11
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TTerrible posted:Biostrip update. Did you let it soak overnight or just 15 minutes at a time, or something in between? As Skarsnik says the plastic should harden up again if you use mineral spirits but I don't know what is in Biostrip that eats the paint.
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Jun 8, 2016 20:12
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I painted up a Guildball team real quick for a friend of mine. Whole team took 2-3 days.         It's been a very busy month, as I also finished the second half of my first tactical squad for 30k:        And here's the whole mob of 20:     It was my first time in a long time doing a blend on the power sword and I'm not exactly thrilled with how it came out. Looks good from tabletop distance though. I went with the red helmet on the sergeant as they're post-Calth, and it's no longer a sign of censure. I also just really, really like red helmets with the racing stripe! I also cut a skull off a scroll case bit and used that to give the sergeant's shoulderpad the trademark red skull in the ultima to make the sergeant iconography.
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Jun 8, 2016 23:32
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krushgroove posted:Did you let it soak overnight or just 15 minutes at a time, or something in between? As Skarsnik says the plastic should harden up again if you use mineral spirits but I don't know what is in Biostrip that eats the paint. Overnight, and now it has had time to sit and dry out it has completely crumbled. It is like an old eraser.  I've got some OOP FW stuff I want to strip. I may just put some biostrip on it for five minutes to get the thin layer of paint off. Russian roulette with my mens.
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Jun 8, 2016 23:37
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Had my Infinity minis at home for once, so I decided to break the painted ones out for a family picture (and individual ones, but good lord is that a lot of photo processing I don't want to do right now). Other than a few scheme inconsistencies, mostly in how the morat weapons are painted, I'm really happy with how things end up looking, especially in terms of cohesion. I even managed to take pictures where the reds, dark blues, and metals aren't completely crushed, a feat I have to ascribe at least partially to picking up one of these and easymoding my way to good color calibration.
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Jun 9, 2016 06:49
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Those are some handsome angry red ape men, very nice work!
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Jun 9, 2016 08:16
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TTerrible posted:Overnight, and now it has had time to sit and dry out it has completely crumbled. It is like an old eraser. Speaking of Russian, are you positive they were actual Finecast? There are a lot of Chinese and Russian knockoffs out there that use low grade resins (not that Finecast was the best.) I've got a couple of Finecast items I haven't done anything with yet - maybe I'll clip them and toss the sprues into some Super Clean to see what happens...
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Jun 9, 2016 12:52
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TTerrible posted:Overnight, and now it has had time to sit and dry out it has completely crumbled. It is like an old eraser. Clean spirit will work, and I've left FW stuff in it for days with no ill effects. It just needs a bit more of a scrub
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Jun 9, 2016 13:10
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Warmahordes crosspostIron Crowned posted:Finally finished a magnetized model
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Jun 9, 2016 13:14
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Anyone know how finecast responds to dettoll?
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Jun 9, 2016 13:14
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TTerrible posted:Overnight, and now it has had time to sit and dry out it has completely crumbled. It is like an old eraser. I need to try some more timed experiments with different things, I have enough Forge World casting gates lying around at this point. Basically though, for stripping anything that isn't styrene (hard plastic) what I would do with the harsh stuff like white spirit, Dettol, Biostrip, etc., is dunk it for no more than 10-15 minutes, brush away the paint, then dunk again for the a steadily decreasing amount of time because more of the plastic will be exposed as you go. Only with hard plastic or metal would it be OK to leave overnight, and even then no longer than 12 hours or so with white spirit. With white spirit or clean spirit you can leave plastic that's been softened out to air dry and the plastic will eventually harden again as the spirits evaporate out of the plastic.
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Jun 9, 2016 13:27
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stabbington posted:Had my Infinity minis at home for once, so I decided to break the painted ones out for a family picture (and individual ones, but good lord is that a lot of photo processing I don't want to do right now). Those are killer. The blue bases contrasted with the red bodies is very striking. Quoting this for the next 7 pages, cause drat!
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Jun 9, 2016 14:05
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sassassin posted:Anyone know how finecast responds to dettoll?
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Jun 9, 2016 15:34
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berzerkmonkey posted:Speaking of Russian, are you positive they were actual Finecast? There are a lot of Chinese and Russian knockoffs out there that use low grade resins (not that Finecast was the best.) I've got a couple of Finecast items I haven't done anything with yet - maybe I'll clip them and toss the sprues into some Super Clean to see what happens... I'm positive they were actual FW resin, not finecast. I picked them up in person in Nottingham. Several chunks from my big bag of resin gates. Skarsnik posted:Clean spirit will work, and I've left FW stuff in it for days with no ill effects. It just needs a bit more of a scrub I'll give it a go! krushgroove posted:I need to try some more timed experiments with different things, I have enough Forge World casting gates lying around at this point. Basically though, for stripping anything that isn't styrene (hard plastic) what I would do with the harsh stuff like white spirit, Dettol, Biostrip, etc., is dunk it for no more than 10-15 minutes, brush away the paint, then dunk again for the a steadily decreasing amount of time because more of the plastic will be exposed as you go. Only with hard plastic or metal would it be OK to leave overnight, and even then no longer than 12 hours or so with white spirit. With white spirit or clean spirit you can leave plastic that's been softened out to air dry and the plastic will eventually harden again as the spirits evaporate out of the plastic. Yeah, I'm going to do 10 minute dunks and keep my eye on it. 
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Jun 9, 2016 16:52
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How bad is the paint? Stripping is generally overrated.
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Jun 9, 2016 16:56
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Is there a clear quality difference between Simple Green and LA Totally Awesome for plastics?
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Jun 9, 2016 17:51
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MasterSlowPoke posted:How bad is the paint? Stripping is generally overrated. As someone who just picked up some second hand minis that were "primed" black over a previous paint job thick enough to lose considerable detail, 
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Jun 9, 2016 19:09
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Any suggestions on which enamel wash would be good for shading golds? Or failing that, a particular oil color to turn into a wash?
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Jun 10, 2016 12:28
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Mango Polo posted:Any suggestions on which enamel wash would be good for shading golds? Or failing that, a particular oil color to turn into a wash? Something brownish - Burnt Umber mixed with Yellow Ochre?
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Jun 10, 2016 12:46
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Mud or Sepia, depending on the overall look you're going for.
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Jun 10, 2016 15:52
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sassassin posted:Mud or Sepia, depending on the overall look you're going for. I've been using Reikland Fleshshade on my golds and it's given them a nice ruddy glow without dulling the gold down like mud would. If you want a nice gleaming gold that's the way to go I'd say. You can look at my Heresy Ultramarines elsewhere in this thread to see what I mean.
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Jun 10, 2016 15:59
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Moonstone Alchemy washed with mud and tipped with mithril makes a nice pale gold for me. But it's not the way to go for a bold, extravagant effect, no.
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Jun 10, 2016 16:06
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Thanks, I guess I'll pick up a raw sienna (light yellow brown) and maybe sepia (dark brown). Reikland is reddish right? Burnt Sienna seems like it'd fit. For the gold itself I'm pretty happy; I mix up Vallejo Metal Color Gold and Scale 75 Dwarven Gold to get something that perfectly match one of the liquid gold paints (rich gold I think), without the horrific hassle of alcohol. Mango Polo fucked around with this message at 16:12 on Jun 10, 2016 |
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Jun 10, 2016 16:10
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For those in the UK looking at airbrush purchase, Barwells have just started stocking the new Xtreme Patriot 105 - cheaper than I got my standard 105 for. http://www.barwellbodyworks-shop.com/airbrushes/798-xtreme-patriot-105-.html
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Jun 10, 2016 16:17
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TTerrible posted:For those in the UK looking at airbrush purchase, Barwells have just started stocking the new Xtreme Patriot 105 - cheaper than I got my standard 105 for. Very good price and UK support as well. This is the guy I help you to with painting classes. If anyone wants to see the action review I did of the Xtreme I posted it earlier in the thread but it's here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NLCxXjtQBFU Links in the video and description to the unboxing and teardown.
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Jun 10, 2016 18:13
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KPC_Mammon posted:As someone who just picked up some second hand minis that were "primed" black over a previous paint job thick enough to lose considerable detail, Generally. Most competent paint jobs can be painted over without issue. Something like that obviously yeah they need to be stripped.
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Jun 10, 2016 18:16
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"Competent paint job" probably covers only about 10% of the painted miniatures out there.
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Jun 10, 2016 20:22
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