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Repoast. The R came home. Also, she made it home today.. Before  After  Suggestions for how to shake it down. Gonna throw my poor DWS tires back on tomorrow. They're at 4/32 so I'm gonna do my best to ruin them by the end of the summer so I can get my new tires mounted. Just feel bad trashing tires that can be abused for fun.
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Jun 10, 2016 05:31
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BraveUlysses posted:Do you have a high rate loan? I don't understand how you could have been 7k underwater on the value of the car after only a year and a few months into the loan. No, 0%. It took exactly 24 payments to get what I owed back down to the pre-scandal book value of the car. So if I were compelled to sell the car back to VW, I'll feel like I paid $12,000 for two years of use. When I could have leased for $6,000 less. That's what they'd have to tack on for me to want to return the car now. Or they can pay the CARB to let me keep the car on the road for 2-3 more years. Or they can fix it. I figure the cost to them is the same for all three options, so I'd expect them to give the money directly to the owners, ship the cars to Brazil, and call the whole thing finished.
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Jun 10, 2016 22:35
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What are some cheap modifications I can do to my 2008 GTI? I added some seat badges (for the handle?) which was pretty cool. Wondering what else people have added to their GTIs, since they're pretty similar sometimes.
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Jun 11, 2016 00:48
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DP and Tune
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Jun 11, 2016 01:09
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BlackMK4 posted:DP and Tune DP? Tune is expensive!
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Jun 11, 2016 03:09
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Double penetration. Or down pipe, whatever you prefer.
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Jun 11, 2016 03:53
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Intake if you want a small power bump. Tune is probably the best bang for your buck. Downpipe + exhaust only gets you a little more power but it's smoother. Also requires stage 2 tune which costs an extra $150 for APR, not sure about the other companies. If you have the tsi motor I have an intake I can sell you on the cheap
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Jun 11, 2016 17:14
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Best money I've spent on my MKV GTI is getting a European blind spot mirror for the driver's side. https://www.ecstuning.com/Volkswagen-Golf_V--2.0T/Exterior/Mirrors/Glass/ES1862888/
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Jun 11, 2016 19:28
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Stage 1 tune and then an intake are good first upgrades as far as performance mods. If you have a manual you might need a stronger clutch after the power upgrade. Uthor posted:Best money I've spent on my MKV GTI is getting a European blind spot mirror for the driver's side. Thanks for reminding me to get one of these for my MKVI. I had some on order from Deutsche Auto but they screwed around and never shipped them. I'll get some from ECS. EDIT: wtf the MKVI version is twice as much Styles Bitchley fucked around with this message at 21:02 on Jun 11, 2016 |
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Jun 11, 2016 20:32
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Just remember, an intake on a turbo car is 99% for sound. You won't gain any -real- benefits and that cost would be better spent on FIRST a tune, and SECOND a downpipe. The restriction on these cars is in the programming and the downpipe. A tune might seem expensive but on the 2.0t is good for almost a 25% bump in power. A tune on a turbo is always your first mod if you are going purely for most power gained in 1 mod. On a non-turbo car, an intake is going to be a good mod, since you don't usually make nearly as much extra power from a tune on a N/A as you do a turbo. So I went down and did the Havana Cruise thing. Pair of 5s on the poker run, but I did get a 25$ gift card. Almost no VWs. 1 Bay window bus, around 7 bugs total and a squareback that has seen better days. Not even any riced out watercooleds. E: Find out which dealer is closest to you. APR usually runs a sale during the summer that's good for about 150 bucks off a tune. I don't have any experience with other brands. There's also this option, which is getting most of the same power as a tune, but can be removed. http://burgertuning.com/volkswagen_vw.html veedubfreak fucked around with this message at 20:53 on Jun 11, 2016 |
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Jun 11, 2016 20:48
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gently caress, for the MK7 (at least) the aftermarket intakes almost all make LESS power than stock.
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Jun 11, 2016 22:08
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I have a 2011 2.5 Golf 4D with an automatic. I don't drive much so it has 20K miles. How often does the oil/air filter actually need to be changed? Going by the 3 month timeframe seems ridiculous, so I still go by mileage, but wondering if there is a more rational timeframe interval. Also, anyone know what the towing capacity is? The manual says that the capacity for the automatic wasn't available at publication time, and I can't seem to find it online.
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Jun 11, 2016 22:16
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Styles Bitchley posted:EDIT: wtf the MKVI version is twice as much It was like $75 when I bought mine, so my thought was "WTF, how's it so cheap?"
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Jun 11, 2016 22:57
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One thing I noticed, my driver's window isn't going down all the way. I remember this happening when I first got the car. How do I get it to drop the last 1/2" so that it's below the rubber. The passenger window goes fully down, I made sure to check in case I was losing my mind :P
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Jun 11, 2016 23:19
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veedubfreak posted:Repoast. The R came home. How much was this repair out of curiosity?
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Jun 11, 2016 23:46
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Any tips for doing the rear brakes on a MKV GTI? I got stuck removing the carrier bolts. I'm debating returning the parts and just paying someone to do it as it seems like a huge PITA. The fronts were one of the easiest brake jobs I've ever done!
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Jun 12, 2016 01:13
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You can slide the rotor past the caliper bracket but it's honestly some sort of magical mind over matter thing when you do it. I managed it once and then never figured it out again on later brake jobs. I just take the entire bracket off now.
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Jun 12, 2016 01:24
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Residency Evil posted:How much was this repair out of curiosity? Parts and labor was 11300. I had over 1000 in addition for the rental for 7 weeks. At current, I'm out 444 for the rental and my 250 deductible. Insurance only covered the first 600.
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Jun 12, 2016 01:39
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8ender posted:You can slide the rotor past the caliper bracket but it's honestly some sort of magical mind over matter thing when you do it. I managed it once and then never figured it out again on later brake jobs. I just take the entire bracket off now. Yeah, I got stuck removing the bracket. It hasn't been taken off in 9 years/100,000 miles. I then broke my torx bit when I was attempting slide the rotor out, so had to stop. I also wasn't able to compress the piston (yes, I have the proper tool; it wouldn't rotate) when putting it back together. I foresee this going down a hell hole of suck and am leaning towards paying someone to deal with it.
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Jun 12, 2016 01:48
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Uthor posted:Any tips for doing the rear brakes on a MKV GTI? I got stuck removing the carrier bolts. I'm debating returning the parts and just paying someone to do it as it seems like a huge PITA. Are you using a triple square bit?
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Jun 12, 2016 02:47
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DrChu posted:Are you using a triple square bit? Yes. I was having problems getting leverage on my breaker bar.
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Jun 12, 2016 04:56
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Uthor posted:Best money I've spent on my MKV GTI is getting a European blind spot mirror for the driver's side. How difficult was this to install?
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Jun 12, 2016 08:29
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obi_ant posted:How difficult was this to install? It just snaps on. There's a video on the product page that shows it. The hardest part was not dropping the original when you take it off because it comes off easier than you'd think.
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Jun 12, 2016 09:48
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Doing plugs on a VR6. Simple job, right? Word of advice to anyone about to tackle this, do yourself a favor and buy/rent/3D print VW's plug connector removal tool. (unless you're keen on replacing all the wires as well) Nope, too big to fit and won't grip the boot.  Nope, can't get an angle and just tears at the boot.  Ahh here we are, now just wait a week for it to ship out... The plugs I pulled were gapped at .070", spec is .024". Was getting 24-26mpg commuting to work, but seemed down on power. Hopefully this gives the old girl some pep, or at least keeps her on the road another 40,000 miles.
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Jun 13, 2016 06:33
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veedubfreak posted:One thing I noticed, my driver's window isn't going down all the way. I remember this happening when I first got the car. How do I get it to drop the last 1/2" so that it's below the rubber. The passenger window goes fully down, I made sure to check in case I was losing my mind :P If you search for that there are some solutions that people have come up with. You can also take it to the dealer and they'll take care of it. My coworkers R had the same thing. It's apparently pretty common.
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Jun 13, 2016 13:21
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So my battery light indicator has come on three different times in the past three weeks. Car starts fine, seems to turn over fine, but after it starts the battery light is on for the first 20-30 seconds of my drive. I'm perfectly happy ignoring this until the third time the light comes on, I also hear a noise coming from the engine for the 20-30 seconds. I'm nowhere near a mechanic, but it sounded like a belt or something wasn't turning at the regular rate (it was turning slower). Again, after 20-30 seconds, I hear the sound "speed up" and dissipate into the normal sound of my engine, and the light turns off. At this point, I'm thinking I've got a failing battery and/or alternator, so I take it in for my regular oil change and see what the professionals can figure out. Of course, they find a bunch of other things they want to work on, and give me an estimate for the following: - "Valve cover and cam adjuster reseal needed, leaking." "Remove and clean valve cover, replace cam adjuster and valve cover gaskets, reassemble." $47.10 parts, plus four hours labor at $119.00/hour, so $527.05 total. - "Rear brake hoses showing signs of wear, age. Recommend replacing soon." "Removal and replacement of rear brake hoses, including bleeding and refilling of brake system hydraulic fluid." Two hoses at $70.00/ea, plus two hours labor at $119/hour, so $378.00 total. - "Driver's side motor mount leaking, due for replacement." Restoration: removal and replacement of driver's side motor mount." $212.00 for the mount, plus 1.1 hours at $119.00/hour, so $342.90 total. - On the battery light, they say "Diagnosis for intermittent battery light at start-up: possible voltage regulator failure--not showing signs now? charging system check showed as normal. May need alternator if continues." No clear recommendation that the alternator actually be replaced though. Perfect. I've been hearing about the brake lines and the cam adjuster leaks when I bring it in for oil changes for about two years now, but this is the first time they seemed to think it was serious enough to give me an estimate for the work. This is also the first time I've heard anything about my motor mount leaking. That sounds pretty serious. At this point I'm also assuming I'll be in there for the alternator sooner or later as well. I guess my primary question is whether anyone knows if these labor estimates are reasonable, and if there's any way for me to determine hoe urgent these repairs actually are? But the other thing I want to know is what the actual lifespan of these cars is? It's a 2005 A4 (B6) with 106,000 miles. I knew maintenance would be expensive before buying it, but I just can't afford to keep putting $1.2K into this thing every two years, when it's only worth like $4K total. Am I at the point in the mileage curve where things are going to keep getting worse at an increasing rate, or should I be looking to bail on this or do nothing and just ride it into the ground? I (naively) thought that after doing the timing belt, fuel pump, and serp belt there would come a day when I'd be able to just say "gently caress it" and do nothing but change the oil for the last 20,000 miles. I mean, if I knew that forking over the money to these guys is what it would take to get me to 125,000 miles I'd do it in a heartbeat, but I to realize that's not possible. Any insight would be much appreciated. Blakkout fucked around with this message at 21:38 on Jun 13, 2016 |
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Jun 13, 2016 21:36
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Blakkout posted:I knew maintenance would be expensive before buying it, but I just can't afford to keep putting $1.2K into this thing every two years $600/year would be significantly less than buying a new car...
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Jun 13, 2016 21:44
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Very true, and certainly something worth considering.
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Jun 13, 2016 21:48
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Uthor posted:$600/year would be significantly less than buying a new car...
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Jun 13, 2016 21:51
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My '03 3.0 A4 hit around 150k before the cats died and they did that just after I had it smogged so I got another two years out of it after without anything real going wrong with it. If you are going to get a premium car expect to pay premium prices on parts and maintenance.
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Jun 13, 2016 22:05
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[quote="Blakkout" post="460994470"] So my battery light indicator has come on three different times in the past three weeks. Car starts fine, seems to turn over fine, but after it starts the battery light is on for the first 20-30 seconds of my drive. I'm perfectly happy ignoring this until the third time the light comes on, I also hear a noise coming from the engine for the 20-30 seconds. I'm nowhere near a mechanic, but it sounded like a belt or something wasn't turning at the regular rate (it was turning slower). Again, after 20-30 seconds, I hear the sound "speed up" and dissipate into the normal sound of my engine, and the light turns off. At this point, I'm thinking I've got a failing battery and/or alternator, so I take it in for my regular oil change and see what the professionals can figure out. Of course, they find a bunch of other things they want to work on, and give me an estimate for the following: - "Valve cover and cam adjuster reseal needed, leaking." "Remove and clean valve cover, replace cam adjuster and valve cover gaskets, reassemble." $47.10 parts, plus four hours labor at $119.00/hour, so $527.05 total. - "Rear brake hoses showing signs of wear, age. Recommend replacing soon." "Removal and replacement of rear brake hoses, including bleeding and refilling of brake system hydraulic fluid." Two hoses at $70.00/ea, plus two hours labor at $119/hour, so $378.00 total. - "Driver's side motor mount leaking, due for replacement." Restoration: removal and replacement of driver's side motor mount." $212.00 for the mount, plus 1.1 hours at $119.00/hour, so $342.90 total. - On the battery light, they say "Diagnosis for intermittent battery light at start-up: possible voltage regulator failure--not showing signs now? charging system check showed as normal. May need alternator if continues." No clear recommendation that the alternator actually be replaced though. Perfect. I've been hearing about the brake lines and the cam adjuster leaks when I bring it in for oil changes for about two years now, but this is the first time they seemed to think it was serious enough to give me an estimate for the work. This is also the first time I've heard anything about my motor mount leaking. That sounds pretty serious. At this point I'm also assuming I'll be in there for the alternator sooner or later as well. I guess my primary question is whether anyone knows if these labor estimates are reasonable, and if there's any way for me to determine hoe urgent these repairs actually are? But the other thing I want to know is what the actual lifespan of these cars is? It's a 2005 A4 (B6) with 106,000 miles. I knew maintenance would be expensive before buying it, but I just can't afford to keep putting $1.2K into this thing every two years, when it's only worth like $4K total. Am I at the point in the mileage curve where things are going to keep getting worse at an increasing rate, or should I be looking to bail on this or do nothing and just ride it into the ground? I (naively) thought that after doing the timing belt, fuel pump, and serp belt there would come a day when I'd be able to just say "gently caress it" and do nothing but change the oil for the last 20,000 miles. I mean, if I knew that forking over the money to these guys is what it would take to get me to 125,000 miles I'd do it in a heartbeat, but I to realize that's not possible. Any insight would be much appreciated. The problems you've listed are really common in that chassis but unless that car has had a timing belt already you're REALLY not going to enjoy that estimate. They also have a really expensive window regulator that tends to fail in a different and more depressing way than other VAG products. It'll be as expensive to run as any other older European sedan with occasional "you're loving KIDDING me!" moments.
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Jun 14, 2016 00:31
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If you get an intermittent P2181 code on a BPY 2.0t replace your coolant sensor first. And have some extra coolant and distilled water on hand.
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Jun 14, 2016 01:48
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Uthor posted:Best money I've spent on my MKV GTI is getting a European blind spot mirror for the driver's side. Oh, that is beautiful. The side view mirrors were one of my main issues when I bought my MKVII as they cut to a point fairly sharply. That install looks dead easy. Hello, self birthday gift. Thanks for the site link / idea.
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Jun 14, 2016 02:05
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my1999gsr posted:The problems you've listed are really common in that chassis but unless that car has had a timing belt already you're REALLY not going to enjoy that estimate. They also have a really expensive window regulator that tends to fail in a different and more depressing way than other VAG products. It'll be as expensive to run as any other older European sedan with occasional "you're loving KIDDING me!" moments. Fortunately, I had the timing belt, fuel pump, and serp belt all done in one shot about three years ago.
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Jun 14, 2016 05:16
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RusteJuxx posted:Oh, that is beautiful. The side view mirrors were one of my main issues when I bought my MKVII as they cut to a point fairly sharply. That install looks dead easy. Hello, self birthday gift. Thanks for the site link / idea. Consider these http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Orig...c8-78cb3de6212c OEM power folding, includes the euro glass, power folding, and has puddle lights. Requires vagcom coding.
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Jun 14, 2016 05:18
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Don Lapre posted:Consider these Puddle light?
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Jun 14, 2016 05:38
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obi_ant posted:Puddle light? There are lights on the bottom of the mirrors that light up the area next to your door when you unlock the car. You can actually see where they would be on your stock mirrors but its just a plastic insert on the US oem lights. Hell i sold my stock mirrors on ebay with the white caps the foldings ones came with (swapped my stock silver ones over) for what i paid for the folding ones.
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Jun 14, 2016 06:14
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How difficult is the swap?
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Jun 15, 2016 21:37
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Pretty simple http://www.uspmotorsports.com/downloads/M001-Instructions.pdf
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Jun 16, 2016 01:44
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Are we supposed to hear more about the diesel settlement this month?
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Jun 16, 2016 04:31
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