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Geirskogul posted:4.0 sohc explorer checking in. Those timing chains are a chooched design. But with proper oiling they never have many problems. Not as bad as later versions of Ford motors. And to the guy with the question about YouTube channels watch South main auto. He's pretty good about explaining everything.
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Jun 11, 2016 18:49
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I have a Murray 30" 12HP mower with a 1997 Briggs and Stratton engine that I can't get started. If I use quickstart/ether it runs for about 2 seconds then dies. I suspect it has been sitting with old fuel. I have changed the spark plug, put some new fuel in, and checked the air filter. As such, I suspect that the carburetor is the problem. The issue is, I can't seem to figure out how to get to the carburetor to clean it out. The air filter is mounted in top of it firmly with no obvious screws to remove it from the top, and the frame on the side prevents side access - unless I take an hour or two to dismantle the entire frame. Even if I did dismantle the whole frame, I don't see any obvious bolts to remove the carb from the side. So my question is: A) Is there something I can do to clean the carb without removing it, or B) does anyone have any knowledge of these engines that could suggest how I can remove the carb to clean it?
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Jun 11, 2016 19:27
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I am looking at my wifes 96 mustang convertible. 3.8L. The temp gauge on the dash doesnt go below half, even when the car is off. Get the car on for a minute or two and it redlines the heat gauge. Never blows hot air either. I initially thought it was overheating so I currently have the thermostat in my hand, but since I looked at the gauge when its been off for a week and seeing it is still at half... I dont know what to do. Tossed the thermostat in boiling water to verify it works and it does. Now I bring it to someone to diagnose? Edit: put it back together, turned on, the gauge dropped. Hasnt risen yet... Spermy Smurf fucked around with this message at 20:21 on Jun 11, 2016 |
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Jun 11, 2016 20:11
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If it happens again check the water pump.
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Jun 11, 2016 20:27
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^And be glad it's a Mustang, not a Taurus. Water pump in the FWD compartment was a bitch.vulturesrow posted:I'm starting to get more and more interested in working on cars. I own a 2014 Suburban, 2015 Mazda 3s, and am a couple of days away from purchasing an 05 Spectra that a friend of mine is fixing up (it's for my daughter). What are some cool and useful things I can do to these cars to give me an excuse to wrench on them? Start simple. Oil changes, check all your fluids and top them off with the correct stuff as needed. Maybe rotate your own tires and check your brakes while the wheels are off. For youtube, I just type in the vehicle type and task: "2014 Suburban brakes" or something like that.
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Jun 11, 2016 21:33
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How the gently caress are you supposed to remove the rear caliper carrier on a 2007 VW GTI (https://see)? The only spot I can fit a breaker bar is straight from the bottom through the lower suspension arm, which gives me about 15 degrees of rotational freedom and zero leverage. At least I can use the three foot bar on the upper bolt; I'll lose a foot of leverage on the lower one. Any tips? If I had a lift, I could get under there with a longer bar and better leverage, but sadly that's not an option.
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Jun 11, 2016 22:29
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CADPAT posted:I have a Murray 30" 12HP mower with a 1997 Briggs and Stratton engine that I can't get started. If I use quickstart/ether it runs for about 2 seconds then dies. I suspect it has been sitting with old fuel. I have changed the spark plug, put some new fuel in, and checked the air filter. As such, I suspect that the carburetor is the problem. I work on Briggs engines all the time. There should be a way to remove the air filter base which will let you get to the carburetor which is attached to the air filter base. If you pm me the model # of the engine, or even post it here I can find the illustrated parts list that will show you an exploded parts view so you know how it all goes together. There is no easy or effective way to clean a carburetor when it's on the engine imo
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Jun 12, 2016 01:53
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MG3 posted:I work on Briggs engines all the time. There should be a way to remove the air filter base which will let you get to the carburetor which is attached to the air filter base. Its a Walbro LMT 5-4993. I figured it out. It was some side mounted bolts. I managed to get the carb off. Turns out the float needle was seized. I also stripped the main jet like a new guy while trying to remove it, so that will be a fun problem to solve tomorrow. I'm thinking a stripped screw extractor or gently caress it buy a new carb. Any thoughts? Also not sure if you're from US or Canada, but I could use a suggesting for where to get kits (or a new carb). I might just try to re-assemble it with the stripped jet, but I'm guessing after how badly the float needle valve was seized, I doubt the main jet is in any shape to be worth even trying. Thanks for replying!
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Jun 12, 2016 05:32
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CADPAT posted:Its a Walbro LMT 5-4993. I figured it out. It was some side mounted bolts. I managed to get the carb off. Turns out the float needle was seized. I also stripped the main jet like a new guy while trying to remove it, so that will be a fun problem to solve tomorrow. I'm thinking a stripped screw extractor or gently caress it buy a new carb. Any thoughts? You're gonna have to drill and extract but sometimes they don't offer replacement center jets unless you buy a rebuild kit. In some cases the rebuild kit is only 20 dollars less than an entirely new carburetor. If you want to go the route of leaving the stripped jet in there then I'd go down to a car parts store and get a carb cleaning solution with a dipping basket. The longest id soak it in that stuff is an hour. Do not soak it for more than that, it can mess up the aluminum. If you give me the model # of the engine, which should be either on a plate on the blower housing, or engraved into it, and the serial # that accompanies it I'll give you all the part #'s you're gonna need.
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Jun 12, 2016 13:25
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Uthor posted:How the gently caress are you supposed to remove the rear caliper carrier on a 2007 VW GTI (https://see)? The only spot I can fit a breaker bar is straight from the bottom through the lower suspension arm, which gives me about 15 degrees of rotational freedom and zero leverage. At least I can use the three foot bar on the upper bolt; I'll lose a foot of leverage on the lower one. Any tips? Get getting a long wrench on it then put another wrench on that one. And get it loose a few turns that way. So box end on the bolt then the other wrenches box end goes on the open end of the wrench on the bolt. They fit better and that gives better leverage.
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Jun 12, 2016 17:00
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SouthsideSaint posted:Get getting a long wrench on it then put another wrench on that one. And get it loose a few turns that way. So box end on the bolt then the other wrenches box end goes on the open end of the wrench on the bolt. They fit better and that gives better leverage. Yeah, I gave up on it. I had the car jacked up as far as I could and my longest breaker bar was just missing the ground. I can't get a longer lever on it. That was with the higher up bolt, the lower one would have even less leverage. Between that and a few other things potentially jamming me up, I think I'm going to return the parts and pay a shop to deal with it. I mean, the bolts have put up with 9 years of Midwest winters. They're on there good. In hindsight, I'm surprised the front went as easy as it did.
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Jun 12, 2016 17:27
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Uthor posted:Yeah, I gave up on it. I had the car jacked up as far as I could and my longest breaker bar was just missing the ground. I can't get a longer lever on it. That's cool. If you lived near chicago I would offer my shops services. Also next time get the bar where you can give it a good kick. Most people suggest against this but any port in a storm.
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Jun 12, 2016 17:56
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SouthsideSaint posted:That's cool. If you lived near chicago I would offer my shops services. Also next time get the bar where you can give it a good kick. Most people suggest against this but any port in a storm. Thanks. The next few times up going to be up there, I'll be too busy to take you up, but I appreciate it.
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Jun 12, 2016 18:34
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Would this be the thread to go to if I have a question on car titles? Basically, I found out when trying to trade my car in that the title is listed with Not Actual Mileage which tanks the trade in value. Is this something that can be fixed considering just 10 days prior to the title being transferred the mileage is reported when it was purchased in the CarFax? In Florida if that helps.
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Jun 13, 2016 02:11
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Just to make sure we're clear - is the issue that Carfax is reporting not-actual-miles, or that the title of the vehicle is branded as such? If Carfax is reporting it, then your only recourse is to pester them. If the actual title is branded as a not-actual-miles title, you would need to hash that out with the state and I'm guessing would need some form of proof that whoever marked the title as such did so incorrectly. If you paid Carfax for the original report before you bought the car, you *might* have some recourse with their guarantees if they didn't report the title to you.
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Jun 13, 2016 02:29
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IOwnCalculus posted:Just to make sure we're clear - is the issue that Carfax is reporting not-actual-miles, or that the title of the vehicle is branded as such? I got the CarFax from a dealer yesterday when I was getting my car appraised and when I got home and checked the title did have the mileage listed as Not Actual Mileage.
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Jun 13, 2016 02:36
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Then your only options would be: *Go after the person who sold you the car, but only if you've got it somewhere in writing that the car was specifically identified as having accurate mileage - if it's not in writing you'll go nowhere *If the Not-actual-mileage branding is in error, figure out how to work with your state to get that removed, if it's even possible
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Jun 13, 2016 02:40
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IOwnCalculus posted:Then your only options would be: The car was bought from family so there was no major paperwork. I plan on going to the DMV soon to see if it can get sorted out otherwise I'll have to look into selling it myself rather than trading it in.
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Jun 13, 2016 02:43
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Goddamnit, I forgot I already posted about this.
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Jun 13, 2016 04:56
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SouthsideSaint posted:Those timing chains are a chooched design. But with proper oiling they never have many problems. Not as bad as later versions of Ford motors. Can confirm. my 4.0 SOHC sport trac went 260,000 before I sold it. The transmission was having issues so it was time to trade up. Other than that, no drivetrain issues, ever. My F150 ecoboost on the other hand, didn't even make it to 50,000 miles before needing to have the timing chain replaced. Motherfucker is going to cost me $3000.
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Jun 13, 2016 17:10
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Repair costs of the ecoboost or that new Nissan 3.0l twin turbo all scare me in the long run
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Jun 13, 2016 21:55
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Christobevii3 posted:Repair costs of the ecoboost or that new Nissan 3.0l twin turbo all scare me in the long run they aren't as common as LS engines yet, but will be.
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Jun 13, 2016 23:45
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I have the option to buy a '92 Dodge Dakota or an '87 Chev for 600 bucks. They're both in the same condition(good body/frame and they both seem maintained). Which is the more reliable truck?
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Jun 14, 2016 00:08
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Which engines in each? I'd say the 87 chevy but really depends on how they run/look.
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Jun 14, 2016 00:10
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The Dakota is a 318 Magnum, I forgot to ask about the Chevy's engine, I know it's a v8 but thats it.
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Jun 14, 2016 00:16
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I use to drive a '97 sierra 1500 6 cyl that use to pull loads a 3/4 tonne normally would (it had extra leaf springs) until it died at 390k km. I trust GM engines a lot more than Dodge, but everyone has their preferences
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Jun 14, 2016 00:48
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Honestly for $600 I'd buy both and just fix one when it is down and drive the other. I'd say I don't really trust dodge transmissions of that time though.
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Jun 14, 2016 00:52
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I already have an '08 Ram, so as much as I would love to buy both, I don't need three trucks. So Chevy it is, thanks guys I really appreciate it.
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Jun 14, 2016 01:08
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CA goon here with my first traffic ticket. Luckily I have the option to attend traffic school. The 'internet course' option sounds the most convenient, but there are literally 835 different DMV-approved 'schools' to chose from. Is it save to assume that they are all equally good/lovely?
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Jun 14, 2016 04:30
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At least in Texas, all of the online schools have the same content. The videos they show are the same videos shown in normal classes (speaking from personal experience on this, since I've done both regular and online defensive driving), and the quizzes are the same. I would think CA is at least as strict in their requirements.
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Jun 14, 2016 05:04
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SouthsideSaint posted:Those timing chains are a chooched design. But with proper oiling they never have many problems. Not as bad as later versions of Ford motors. YOU SON OF A BITCH Today,  my fiancee calls me as she's trying to come home from work. "Something came loose. It won't run and makes a bad noise. Come here." She says that the drive to work was A-OK, and starting it up was okay, but a few seconds after startup it started making a terrible noise, and then died. These trucks have IAC problems, so I went after that first. Well, after cleaning the IAC valve and lubing it up, it is an issue. But even after doing that (which allowed the truck to idle) it still had no power, and was dumping fuel. I cleared the codes with the battery, and gave it some time to start up again. Pinged the Check Engine light (with flashes for the first bit, code in progress) when I tried to give it throttle. I started searching for hours and hours for a solution. Cleaned MAF and Air Charge Temp sensors, tried to run with MAF unplugged, etc. Eventually, I gave up and started to look for "Ford 4.0 SOHC noise" videos on Youtube, and I found one that matches it perfectly. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ALRCRqv7kxs poo poo. Let's look in the comments:  And his followup video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lkYaqxoVaTc 
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Jun 14, 2016 07:45
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In these parts that engine is 100% replace-instead-of-fix territory and they're fairly common. I don't know how we ended up with so many explorers but there you go.
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Jun 14, 2016 08:20
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Geirskogul posted:YOU SON OF A BITCH Oh my god you poor bastard.
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Jun 14, 2016 13:08
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I have a 2004 Ford Escape with an automatic petrol engine. And today had something very concerning happen. I turned on the car and immediately noticed a weird burning smell, but thought it was my neighbour's chimney. I moved off and then, for about three seconds, had smoke coming out of the air vents. I immediately turned the engine off. I popped the hood to see if poo poo was on fire and a small puff of smoke came out, but nothing else. I couldn't see anything amiss in the engine bay, no charred spots or exposed wiring, but it was almost dark. The only thing I could find out of the ordinary was that the coolant was a bit low. When it happened I didn't have any heating or air con running, just the fans running on low. So I topped up the coolant, gathered a hose and two fire blankets and turned the car on again. This time nothing. Everything worked fine. I stood out there for ten minutes with the hose in my hand and the motor running to see if it happened again. Nope. I had to pick my sister up from the airport and that was a (nervous) 40km round trip, but everything seemed to run fine. No overheating. No burning smells. No smoke shooting out of the air vents. But smoke doesn't just come out of your air vents and I'd really appreciate any thoughts on the matter. Addendum - it is winter here, so there's the possibility that I may have slightly fried a rat or mouse looking to keep warm. But they usually smell a lot worse (and make a lot of noise!) if they get caught in an engine. I really hope it's not rats, because they chew on the wiring and that would mean having to pull everything apart and check it 
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Jun 14, 2016 13:54
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theHUNGERian posted:CA goon here with my first traffic ticket. Luckily I have the option to attend traffic school. The 'internet course' option sounds the most convenient, but there are literally 835 different DMV-approved 'schools' to chose from. Is it save to assume that they are all equally good/lovely? If you're good with computers some schools have the 8 hour timer based solely in your browser.
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Jun 14, 2016 14:15
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H110Hawk posted:If you're good with computers some schools have the 8 hour timer based solely in your browser. Which pauses if you tab away, but not if you put it in a separate window. Protip from a former habitual speeder.
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Jun 14, 2016 16:45
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H110Hawk posted:If you're good with computers some schools have the 8 hour timer based solely in your browser. I do. *ralph_cat.jpg*
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Jun 14, 2016 17:50
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Enourmo posted:Which pauses if you tab away, but not if you put it in a separate window. You can often edit the timer directly. No futzing with the system clock. Some schools have gotten busted for their tests being too easy to cheat so they implement a server side timer, though it tends to only make sure the "final exam" is submitted past the 8 hour timer. Sometimes you can just edit the "next" button from "inactive" to "active" and click on through.
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Jun 14, 2016 19:02
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net work error posted:The car was bought from family so there was no major paperwork. Follow up on this in case someone ever has a similar issue. When the family member initially sent the documents they accidentally marked the mileage as Not Actual Mileage. They sent a document marking the original as incorrect to the state and maybe it wasn't updated or something. I thankfully had a copy so I went to my local tag/title office and was able to present show it which got it fixed quickly.
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Jun 14, 2016 22:33
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I am honestly shocked that you were able to get it fixed easily.
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Jun 14, 2016 23:01
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