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CommieGIR posted:So, I've been wanting to get a welder forever, and I've taken a couple of classes. One of my neighbors had an 'Antique Arc Welder' he wanted to get rid of, I thought by antique he meant 1970s. The ceramic insulators that form the "handles" of those stingers are repurposed knob and tube wiring supplies. 
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May 31, 2016 20:14
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kastein posted:The ceramic insulators that form the "handles" of those stingers are repurposed knob and tube wiring supplies. Oh, doesn't surprise me in the least. I haven't gotten the welder to really penetrate anything really well when practicing, but I'm out of scrap metal to practice on. And you know this because of your house, right? 
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May 31, 2016 20:35
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My house and my parents. Both had extensive knob and tube wiring when purchased. I replaced about 75% of the K&T in their basement with modern wiring but wasn't going to go as far as opening the walls to do the first floor and second floor. My place, I ripped it all out with linemans and a wrecking bar and never looked back.
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May 31, 2016 22:43
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so I'm making some solid sterling silver roach clips and jesus christ even the first attempt is loving gorgeous  
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Jun 1, 2016 23:19
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drat dude, that is awesome! I'd love to see some pics "in the making" on your next try!
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Jun 2, 2016 01:33
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http://lakeland.craigslist.org/tls/5602594624.html How does this look? I've never done any lathe work and hardly anything shows up locally. I'd probably never work on anything larger than 2" OD and 12" long in aluminum. Maybe small brass or copper parts.
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Jun 2, 2016 15:18
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Assuming the ways aren't shot, that's a good deal considering the table and tooling included. My only complaint about atlas is their lack of inverted V ways, but that shouldn't be a huge concern. It just means if you take the headstock off you have to go through a bit of effort to align everything properly.
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Jun 2, 2016 15:33
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I really want a lathe and a 5 axis CNC 
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Jun 2, 2016 15:50
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AbsentMindedWelder posted:Assuming the ways aren't shot, that's a good deal considering the table and tooling included. My only complaint about atlas is their lack of inverted V ways, but that shouldn't be a huge concern. It just means if you take the headstock off you have to go through a bit of effort to align everything properly. Thank you. I'm not sure this is what I'd want, but I may call him up and see it. Based on this is appears to be a Model "D". http://www.lathes.co.uk/atlas/index.html
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Jun 2, 2016 16:18
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pt 2: it has a friend now  
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Jun 3, 2016 00:47
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Ambrose Burnside posted:pt 2: it has a friend now I've seen the beads on the edge done manually, with silver solder, but I imagine the time it would take to do by hand would make that the most expensive roach clip ever. I started watching Iron and Fire, based on this thread's recommendation. I like that he does such "fine" work, it's almost like jewelry. I wonder how much guns like his sell for, and I can only watch in envy as he produces gorgeous AND functional pieces.
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Jun 3, 2016 13:01
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Yeah, that's pretty close to what I'm doing (I'm being a big weiner and Not Disclosing the manufacturing flows in much detail cause I get incredibly paranoid about things I'm trying to bring to market and that aren't just one-offs or commissions, and it's taken me literal years of on-off tinkering to get the design n fabrication details tight and good-looking and fast to produce)
Ambrose Burnside fucked around with this message at 15:26 on Jun 3, 2016 |
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Jun 3, 2016 15:24
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Well you're doing a phenomenal job Ambrose, those are gorgeous.
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Jun 3, 2016 17:05
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Ambrose Burnside posted:Yeah, that's pretty close to what I'm doing (I'm being a big weiner and Not Disclosing the manufacturing flows in much detail cause I get incredibly paranoid about things I'm trying to bring to market and that aren't just one-offs or commissions, and it's taken me literal years of on-off tinkering to get the design n fabrication details tight and good-looking and fast to produce) I didn't mean to disparage or pry; they are fantastic. I'm always curious how things are done, especially really fine detail work. Besides, you got me eyeing the pitch bowl at the Steel Yard. Any recommendations on starter projects?
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Jun 3, 2016 18:32
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Today on amateur hour jewelry making, Slung Blade tries to make a ring again. This time I was able to use the tig welder. I was also able to use a nice new rotary tool to grind down the booger to see nasty loving porosity and bad work in general in the superior lighting of my new shop. I will, at least, be able to make use of the tig without a full archeological expedition now, so I can practice some more.  However, at least I was able to join it this time without vaporizing the tips. Plus it will need a ton of polishing and cleaning up in general before it would be "done", and I can fix the weld if necessary given time. However, I want to test it to see if this material will rust this time (I used what is supposed to be stainless, so we shall see) if it's good then I will spend the time cleaning it up proper-like. At least it's more even than my last attempt on the non-weld side...  E: tested it against skin over night. gently caress. 
Slung Blade fucked around with this message at 15:13 on Jun 5, 2016 |
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Jun 5, 2016 08:35
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Why is it that when I'm working on a normal piece, I end up burning it the second I stop paying attention. But when I'm trying to forge weld, I can't get the fire hot enough to save my life.   Still needs practice, but I got one of them to work.
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Jun 6, 2016 15:24
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Pagan posted:Why is it that when I'm working on a normal piece, I end up burning it the second I stop paying attention. But when I'm trying to forge weld, I can't get the fire hot enough to save my life. It might not be a heat thing. If you run a gas forge, make sure you've got the mixture right, and are running oxygen neutral or reducing. If you've got too much oxygen coming in, the forge could be more than hot enough but you'll be forming scale too quickly to get solid welds, regardless of flux. If you use a coal forge, see if you can use coke instead. It burns much cleaner and makes for easier welding.
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Jun 6, 2016 16:04
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Keep an eye on your fire pot if you run coke, that poo poo can slag your expensive cast iron pretty quick if you let it get away from you.
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Jun 6, 2016 16:27
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mjan posted:It might not be a heat thing. If you run a gas forge, make sure you've got the mixture right, and are running oxygen neutral or reducing. If you've got too much oxygen coming in, the forge could be more than hot enough but you'll be forming scale too quickly to get solid welds, regardless of flux. This was a coal forge. I'd like to have a gas forge that reaches welding temps, but I don't have it yet. I think it's a heat thing, or it was that day. I could get the metal up to a glowing bright yellow, but "white and just starting to spark" was elusive. Of course, earlier when I was working on other things, I had to constantly watch the temp and had a few spots get too hot. The burns on the handle happened while I was shaping it, not while trying to weld it. Still, I haven't forge welded much so any success is a success. Pagan fucked around with this message at 18:12 on Jun 6, 2016 |
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Jun 6, 2016 17:59
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I'm not sure if this is the right thread, but if not hopefully you can point me in the right direction. I've got three cast iron frying pans and a couple of cast iron pots that have been treated shabbily--left outside, etc. They're pretty rust-coated at this point. Is there a reasonable way to clean them up and get them back to a usable state? What should I be looking at to make that judgment, and if they're salvagable, what's the best way to remove the rust and whatever? Thanks.
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Jun 7, 2016 18:20
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The cooking forum here will fill your ear with all sorts of stuff about cast iron pans. That said, cast iron pans almost never die. Unless the corrosion is so bad it's caused bad pitting on the surface. As far as cleaning it up goes, elbow grease with brillo pads will do the trick. If you want less elbow grease involved you could use something like naval jelly or evapo-rust but I would worry about chemical residues being left on something I’ll be eating food out of. A small wire wheel in a drill would be quite effective. Once you have it de-rusted just season like normal. Edit: In fact there is a specific thread for cast iron cookware: http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3694651 AbsentMindedWelder fucked around with this message at 18:27 on Jun 7, 2016 |
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Jun 7, 2016 18:24
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AbsentMindedWelder posted:The cooking forum here will fill your ear with all sorts of stuff about cast iron pans. Awesome, thanks. Yeah, I thought about the cooking forum but decided I'd start with people that know metal, since it's going to be a bit before I'm thinking about seasoning again. I think I have a wire wheel somewhere, thanks, that'll do nicely.
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Jun 7, 2016 18:28
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Use vinegar and brillo to derust cast iron.
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Jun 7, 2016 19:52
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I got a cast iron pan from a chest stored outside my grandpa's workshop that was very badly rusted and covered in gunk. About 40 minutes with a wire wheel on my angle grinder and it's smooth as a baby's butt. Turns out it was a 10 inch Wagner that is now one of our daily use pans.
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Jun 7, 2016 20:13
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https://m.facebook.com/story.php?story_fbid=940578639397691&id=640024119453146 I don't even....
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Jun 9, 2016 14:57
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Brekelefuw posted:https://m.facebook.com/story.php?story_fbid=940578639397691&id=640024119453146 First impression: Man that's a weird looking cymbal. Later:  End result: 
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Jun 9, 2016 17:28
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Brekelefuw posted:https://m.facebook.com/story.php?story_fbid=940578639397691&id=640024119453146 By Odin's Raven!
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Jun 9, 2016 19:34
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Coworker of mine recently got into the hobby and he joined me out at Pioneer Acres today. We did some work there, bullshitted with the guys, and then came back to my place to finish work on this: We made a hammer out of some old Ford tractor's axle.  He put a farrier style grind on it, really curved on one side and more flat on the other.  He did a super good job polishing the faces.  We also made all the parts he needed to use this old 4" leg vise I gave him. It was missing the mounting bits/shackle.  I welded a plate onto the bar later, but I forgot to grab a picture
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Jun 12, 2016 04:23
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Slung Blade posted:Coworker of mine recently got into the hobby and he joined me out at Pioneer Acres today. We did some work there, bullshitted with the guys, and then came back to my place to finish work on this: Not only did you make your own hammer, but you made it out of scrap from an old car. That's bragging rights right there. It certainly came out better than my first hammer. I've been amazed at that lion piece, and I've always wanted to try making armor. I haven't done much raising, but this weekend I found an excuse to do so. The coal scoop we use at our forge went missing, so I decided to make a new one.   I realize it's kind of an absurd amount of work to replace a simple scoop, but I learned a lot about this technique. Once this is done, I am going to try making a simple arm or shoulder piece, and see how that goes. I did a whole album on imgur, here : http://imgur.com/gallery/E1jLm
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Jun 12, 2016 23:58
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Hypnobeard posted:Awesome, thanks. Yeah, I thought about the cooking forum but decided I'd start with people that know metal, since it's going to be a bit before I'm thinking about seasoning again. I think I have a wire wheel somewhere, thanks, that'll do nicely. If I'm going to use the wire wheel for this, any guidance on what kind of respiratory protection (if any) I should be using? I'll definitely have a full face shield on, but I feel that the cheapo dust masks I have access to at the moment are not going to cut it.
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Jun 13, 2016 01:39
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Hypnobeard posted:If I'm going to use the wire wheel for this, any guidance on what kind of respiratory protection (if any) I should be using? I'll definitely have a full face shield on, but I feel that the cheapo dust masks I have access to at the moment are not going to cut it. Dust mask is perfectly fine for a quick wire-wheeling. You're not generating smoke or fumes, just iron oxide dust, and a standard dust mask will handle that. The typical standard for that kind of one-off job would be "no respiratory protection" or "hold your breath while leaning over the work", so you're well ahead of the curve.
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Jun 13, 2016 01:52
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The 3M 6000 series is really cheap, fits well, and works. They're low profile, so they fit under a face shield (and welding hoods too). https://smile.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001NDN29O P100 filters, which are rated for nuisance level organic vapors: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B007STCT00/ , which work great around paint and other "normal" fumes.
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Jun 13, 2016 05:51
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This might be a weird question but since there's anodizing in the thread title somebody might know (or it might have been mentioned already). I am working on a line of jewelry that involves anodized titanium shapes which I cut from sheets using a regular ol' jeweler's saw. As you know titanium is a bitch to cut, and I've been looking around for a source of pre-cut titanium shapes to use in some of the more simple pieces, such as circles, rectangles, squares, etc. You'd think somebody would make them, but I have had no luck finding anything of that kind. Does anybody here know if such a service is available, or is anybody capable of cutting titanium shapes for a reasonable price? I'm not too particular about the sizes and shapes, I can work with what I have, but I don't have a lot of money to spend and won't be buying in bulk. I'm thinking like, 30 round disks, 50 squares, stuff like that. Here's one of my pieces to give an idea of what I'm looking for:  I would obviously prefer to be able to cut my own shapes, but it's so time consuming that I feel like it's worth a little extra money to get them pre-cut. I have been working with sheet that's about 20 gg or 2 mm in thickness, but I'd like to try thicker sheet as well. Any advice would be great!
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Jun 15, 2016 22:56
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How does $250 for a Millermatic 135 with large roll of wire sound? Don't see many of those come up around me so not sure.
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Jun 15, 2016 23:19
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Croisquessein posted:This might be a weird question but since there's anodizing in the thread title somebody might know (or it might have been mentioned already). I am working on a line of jewelry that involves anodized titanium shapes which I cut from sheets using a regular ol' jeweler's saw. As you know titanium is a bitch to cut, and I've been looking around for a source of pre-cut titanium shapes to use in some of the more simple pieces, such as circles, rectangles, squares, etc. You'd think somebody would make them, but I have had no luck finding anything of that kind. Does anybody here know if such a service is available, or is anybody capable of cutting titanium shapes for a reasonable price? I would look at some engineering places that have a water jet cutter. My brother in law works for a metal testing company (possibly the best job I have heard of) and he has a water jet cutter that can cut drat near anything. He just needs a 2d model and the material to be cut.
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Jun 16, 2016 02:22
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Frogmanv2 posted:I would look at some engineering places that have a water jet cutter. My brother in law works for a metal testing company (possibly the best job I have heard of) and he has a water jet cutter that can cut drat near anything. He just needs a 2d model and the material to be cut. Thank you! I had looked into laser cutting but apparently that isn't good for titanium. There's a CMA waterjet cutting place nearby that does titanium, so I'm going to give them a call tomorrow. Hopefully they aren't too expensive. If so I might as well plunk down the money for niobium and get a bunch of shape punches.
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Jun 16, 2016 03:23
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Ok, I'll ask at the source why do people use high strength, difficult to work engineering materials for trinkets?
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Jun 16, 2016 09:01
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Random Number posted:Ok, I'll ask at the source why do people use high strength, difficult to work engineering materials for trinkets? Well, a year ago somebody showed me anodizing, and it changed the course of my metal art education. I had been concentrating on raising, and had a good enough body of work that I could have used that as my senior exhibition, but as somebody who has been drawing and painting my whole life I lean towards illustrative work. I just didn't find the right medium in my metal education until anodizing titanium. So I ended up breaking my back to make a bunch of new pieces in three months, because it was what I had to do. It's a medium that was sorta big in the 80's but fell out of fashion after that. Artists like Edward DeLarge and Greg Patrenos showed you can do amazing visual things with titanium, but it seems like nobody's doing that anymore. Maybe I've missed something, but I can't find much information about what I'm trying to do. Anodizing is sort of like painting, but you're not using pigment, you're using thin layers of oxides that refract light in different ways. It really doesn't look like anything else. Something about it sets my imagination off and I'm constantly observing things and thinking about problems in anodizing. It's technical and simple but touchy and full of happy accidents and total disasters. There's so many possibilities. I'm only beginning to figure it out. Will anybody buy this stuff? I don't know. It's been hard to gauge interest thus far but I feel like I'm discovering something and that's awesome, even if I have to do a day job while I'm at it.
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Jun 16, 2016 09:42
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I think he means why not anodise aluminium since it's cheap and can be cut with a stiff breeze?
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Jun 16, 2016 10:21
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It's totally different. Aluminum anodizing uses dye and boiling acids or something. Titanium and niobium just change color when you apply electricity and epsom salt water. Like I said, it's like painting.
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Jun 16, 2016 10:51
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