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Geirskogul posted:I think you can do the rope trick (feed rope into the cylinder through the spark plug hole to keep the valve in place) but you're playing a dangerous game. Also compressing the valve without access to the face is a pain in the dick on most designs. Thanks for further echoing the voice of reason in my head. I'm just going to swap the motor from my accord to the odyssey and rebuild the head once the motor is out. And in response to your explorer question The whole center arm rest sells for a decent amount of money in eBay. And there 99% gone in all junkyard i have been in.
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Jun 20, 2016 03:19
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HOLY poo poo you're right. Just the rear vent cover alone sold for $50 recently. The entire center console goes for $200. Of course, then you have to pay Ebay their devil's share, paypal the same, then ship the bulky thing. If I had a place to store the car, then maybe. Or if the wrecker will take it for their offer minus the console, who knows?
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Jun 20, 2016 03:51
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It might not be bad to take it out. Did they see any interior shots? Tell them it was left out ages ago due it cracking. I'm sure it's not the first junked exlpoder with no center console.
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Jun 20, 2016 04:18
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Don't most junkyards just care about the recyclable metal content of the car, anyway? I doubt they'll care about 5lb of plastic or whatever.
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Jun 20, 2016 09:57
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I'll remove it tomorrow, yeah.
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Jun 20, 2016 10:00
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I love the look of WWII blackout headlights, like the super ghetto American ones that are just painted black on the top half of the lamp. I presumed that headlight coverings would be illegal, but so far I can't find anything concrete one way or the other. At least, nothing concrete that addresses this specific modification, just stuff about color ranges, alignment, and brightness. Presuming that the lights still meet those standards, can I black out the top of my headlights?
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Jun 20, 2016 13:40
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The Door Frame posted:I love the look of WWII blackout headlights, like the super ghetto American ones that are just painted black on the top half of the lamp. I presumed that headlight coverings would be illegal, but so far I can't find anything concrete one way or the other. At least, nothing concrete that addresses this specific modification, just stuff about color ranges, alignment, and brightness. Presuming that the lights still meet those standards, can I black out the top of my headlights? I doubt that covering up 90% of your headlights is going to leave you with enough illumination to prevent you from driving into something solid at speed. I get that you like the look and to a certain extent, I share that, but legality aside, it's going to be a dangerous idea.
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Jun 20, 2016 13:54
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spog posted:I doubt that covering up 90% of your headlights is going to leave you with enough illumination to prevent you from driving into something solid at speed. No, no, no, not real Blitz approved stuff, that would be waaaaay too dangerous for the amount of cool it provides. I am talking about the ghetto west coast version, it's literally just the top half of the lamp covered up so that they don't scatter any light up due to the round shape that they used to have So this,  But with paint instead of metal
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Jun 20, 2016 14:15
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The Door Frame posted:I love the look of WWII blackout headlights, like the super ghetto American ones that are just painted black on the top half of the lamp. I presumed that headlight coverings would be illegal, but so far I can't find anything concrete one way or the other. At least, nothing concrete that addresses this specific modification, just stuff about color ranges, alignment, and brightness. Presuming that the lights still meet those standards, can I black out the top of my headlights? Around me, minimum headlight requirements are defined as number of candlesticks of light thrown at a distance. You would have to check your local laws. How hot do your headlights get? What temp is your paint rated for? Since incandescents reflect using a cone/dish to focus the light, covering ~1/4 of the headlight might reduce ~1/3 of the light. You need either a lot of math or a lot or trial and error to reduce the light the right amount. Oh, and when the local constable pulls you over and writes a ticket for insufficient illumination, then you have to explain all of this to a judge.
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Jun 20, 2016 14:26
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The Door Frame posted:No, no, no, not real Blitz approved stuff, that would be waaaaay too dangerous for the amount of cool it provides. I am talking about the ghetto west coast version, it's literally just the top half of the lamp covered up so that they don't scatter any light up due to the round shape that they used to have The problem is that these headlights are designed to only illuminate a few feet in front. The opposite of what your headlights are supposed to do. You're not going to see poo poo. And you're going to get ticketed.
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Jun 20, 2016 15:58
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That's what I was afraid of, thankfully it's just a little cosmetic thing that I can live without
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Jun 20, 2016 16:01
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Ok, here's another really dumb question, if I get a You know, besides the fact that it's an overly complicated work around for a problem that didn't really exist until I created it E: I am even dumberer than I originally thought The Door Frame fucked around with this message at 18:59 on Jun 20, 2016 |
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Jun 20, 2016 18:36
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That will depend entirely on the engine you pick. With enough time and money, sure, any FWD engine can be mounted longitudinally, but not all FWD engines even have a RWD transmission that will bolt to them. Even for engines that are available both ways, like the Ford Duratec / Mazda MZR, or the Mazda BP, lots of the external components (oil pan, manifolds, accessory drive) will be different in each application.
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Jun 20, 2016 18:48
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Oh poo poo, I wrote the wrong thing... I am specifically asking about the weird longitudinal FWD engines like the ones Chrysler put out, I think there's enough lance marks on the trasverse-to-longitudinal windmill The Door Frame fucked around with this message at 19:00 on Jun 20, 2016 |
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Jun 20, 2016 18:57
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Anyone familiar with the current Chevy Sonics/Across? My girlfriend's just cracked its cylinder head at just over 40,000 miles. Now she's freaking out because she started reading NHSTA complaints and forums and of course is now worried her transmission is going to explode next. Is there anything worth being worried about? It seemed like a perfectly normal hatchback that would last well over 100k to me.
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Jun 20, 2016 23:00
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Small korean designed chevy and you expect it to last 100k miles? I think the last small chevy to not have some horrible design flaw to kill it might have been the chevette. But in all honesty it lacked enough power to break anything. They still have weird intake coolant issues on their small engines, clogging cats built into the exhaust manifold, and probably some other obscure mode of failure. The transmission is probably fine though. Look at the variants of it and they can handle quite a bit of power.
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Jun 21, 2016 03:05
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I was gonna say it had the crap first gen GM aluminum I4, but I guess that was the Vega. Reading about which taught me of the existence of the Cosworth Vega, which might be the most whiplash inducing two words in the English language.
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Jun 21, 2016 03:43
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1979 Ford Courier pickup truck - My door seals/weatherstrips are basically non-existent, same with the vent windows. I'll probably order the OEM door strips ($44) but the vent window seals are three times that and I'm a cheap bastard. Anyone have experience with bulk/generic door weatherstrip? Should be easy for the doors but the vent windows might be difficult.
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Jun 21, 2016 13:00
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Not really a car question, but a question about Mitchell1 OnDemand. A friend of mine owns a shop and had it installed on an old Windows XP system. The wiring diagrams worked perfect on it, he prefers the OnDemand version and said its more detailed than AllData and ProDemand which he also has access too. Last week for some reason (probably because it's xp and OnDemand has to be ran on Internet Explorer) it just quit working. He called them and they transferred the licenses to the shops new Win10 computers. Everything works great except for the wiring diagrams( the only part of it he wanted). Turns out the actual wiring diagram images used some obsolete Adobe program that is no longer updated, I was able to download it and get the diagrams to show. However all functionality, (zoom in, pan, print) does not register at all. Has anyone that owns or works at a shop ran into this and hopefully found a solution or work around? I've exhausted anything I can think of, which was basically Ctrl+P. That however just prints the useless tool bar of buttons that no longer function.
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Jun 21, 2016 18:13
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Some of my lugnuts no longer thread by hand. They start threading, then they get really difficult to turn (before they're actually tight on the wheel, obviously). They get better but not perfect when I try to clean dirt and whatnot out of the threads. Is this normal, or is it time for new lugnuts/studs? e. On a few of them, when I'm using the rattlegun, it's bap-bap-bapping them all the way off. How hard of a job is it to replace lug studs on drum brakes? 02 Jeep Wrangler, silver.
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Jun 21, 2016 18:25
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Vent window strips are usually too complicated to get a good deal with generic. You might save a bit by ordering generic door seal somewhere else though. NitroSpazzz posted:1979 Ford Courier pickup truck - My door seals/weatherstrips are basically non-existent, same with the vent windows. I'll probably order the OEM door strips ($44) but the vent window seals are three times that and I'm a cheap bastard. Mc master has a good selection, but it's hard to beat $44 if that's for both doors, and real hard to find anything good for a vent window too, since they have corners and odd transitions.
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Jun 21, 2016 18:35
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StormDrain posted:Vent window strips are usually too complicated to get a good deal with generic. You might save a bit by ordering generic door seal somewhere else though. Think I might have to just buy the OEM vent ones which is fine. The $44 seems great but I didn't notice another $45 to ship them from Thailand so I'll keep looking.
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Jun 21, 2016 18:59
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Safety Dance posted:Some of my lugnuts no longer thread by hand. They start threading, then they get really difficult to turn (before they're actually tight on the wheel, obviously). They get better but not perfect when I try to clean dirt and whatnot out of the threads. Is this normal, or is it time for new lugnuts/studs? If you pull the shoes off for space, you should be able to hammer the old studs out of the axle flange; normally you'd wanna use a puller, but you're not re-using so go hog wild. Stick a socket or stack of washers over the new studs, thread on the lug nut and use your airgun, as it turns the nut will pull the new stud into place. Or you can just use the wheel as your spacer, but then you can't really see when the stud sits flush against the hub flange. If your front nuts come on and off fine, thread the nuts from the rear on the front studs, to make sure the threads on the rear nuts aren't chewed up as well. E: Oh, and put something between the hub flange and axle tube when you're hammering the studs out, so that the hammer blow doesn't get transmitted to the wheel bearings, or into the differential and damage the bearings in there.
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Jun 21, 2016 19:30
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NitroSpazzz posted:Think I might have to just buy the OEM vent ones which is fine. The $44 seems great but I didn't notice another $45 to ship them from Thailand so I'll keep looking. Yikes! My frame of reference is from McMaster Carr and what I think is the right size is $1.70 plf, and each door is 13 feet, minimum order by the foot is 30, or a roll of 25ft (goddamnit).
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Jun 21, 2016 21:59
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FenderRXB posted:Not really a car question, but a question about Mitchell1 OnDemand.  thing of course then you're probably super-hosed.
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Jun 21, 2016 22:51
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FenderRXB posted:I've exhausted anything I can think of, which was basically Ctrl+P. That however just prints the useless tool bar of buttons that no longer function. Maybe try running the old Adobe software in compatibility mode for WinXP and then opening the diagram?
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Jun 21, 2016 23:12
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Thanks for the replies, running the site in compatability mode does show the diagrams, just no way to print them. So at least he can view them. Currently it's 119 in Arizona though so walking back and forth gets old. I was just curious if anyone has come across it before. Mitchell1 is extremely helpful, I was surprised. He's going to call them tomorrow and see if they have any suggestions.
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Jun 22, 2016 00:22
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I have a lovely old 1999 Lexus ES 300 that I hate that last night developed an extremely hosed up problem. I started up the car and turned the headlights on and only the right one went on, and then it went out. I tried turning the headlights on and off and they turned on when I set them to off and turned off when I set them to on. I swear to god I am not trolling on:  on front:  on back:  off:  off front:  off back:  I'm taking it to a mechanic this week because I'm not a car person and I'm not going to try to fix it myself, and I'm not surprised that the headlights could fail, but how in the holy gently caress could it get reversed?  Just curious if anybody had any idea what could be happening
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Jun 22, 2016 02:13
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Your "fog lamp" switch is on and they will only run with the main lights off usually. Are your rear lights on , it's really hard to tell, you may need headlight bulbs. How about high beams do those work? Edit Headlight bulbs will be around 12 each at autoboyzonepa a mechanic will probably charge 25-30 each to replace mostly becsuse it's or worth their time. You can also check fuses easily, usually it's bulbs or fuses. tater_salad fucked around with this message at 02:37 on Jun 22, 2016 |
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Jun 22, 2016 02:30
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tater_salad posted:Your "fog lamp" switch is on and they will only run with the main lights off usually. Yeah, I took the picture in direct sunlight (I didn't want to close my door in the garage while the car was running). That switch doesn't seem to make a difference, I've switched it back and forth and it doesn't seem to do anything, with any of the other setting. I've been using this same setting and haven't touched it for years, just yesterday this reversal has started. I wouldn't be surprised if I needed to replace the bulbs, either. Edit: Highbeams work as normal
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Jun 22, 2016 02:38
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Yeah, looks like it has DRLs (daytime running lights) that illuminate the high beams at a lower intensity, very common for Lexus. Those turning on with the stalk set to off is an intended function, the low beam bulbs are probably just burned out. You could take it to a mechanic but that will turn a $20 job into a $100+ job, and since that car was built prior to the late 2000s you probably don't have to take the entire front end off to replace the bulbs.
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Jun 22, 2016 02:40
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Geoj posted:Yeah, looks like it has DRLs (daytime running lights) that illuminate the high beams at a lower intensity, very common for Lexus. Those turning on with the stalk set to off is an intended function, the low beam bulbs are probably just burned out. I'll double check but I'm like 95% sure that those lights didn't turn on when the lights were set to off before. I would manually set the headlights to on during the day because I'd notice it would illuminate my garage a bit and I prefer to have headlights on even during the day if I can. I'll double check that though, you could totally be right. It would make a lot more sense, there's a good chance I'm just an unobservant moron.
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Jun 22, 2016 02:45
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Those lights have been on, unless you're always driving with your lights in the on position, so either that or unobservant . I thought they were daytime running lights but didn't see fogs so I assumed they were operated by the fog light switch.
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Jun 22, 2016 02:53
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Some models may turn off the DRLs if you move the switch from auto to off. Some Toyotas have a "DRL OFF" setting on the switch instead. Just leave the switch set to auto, and go get a couple of low beam bulbs. Although if you don't have the keyfobs, the headlights may not turn off on their own (my mother's Avalon is like that, the lights stay on until you lock the car with the fobs when the switch is on auto).
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Jun 22, 2016 05:08
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Quick question about my car charger. I bought a Scosche ReVOLT 2x 12W 2.4A car charger for my work truck. Currently it charges a Galaxy S6 with a 3' Anker micro USB cable. I will also be using it to charge my iPhone 6 at the same time once I buy an extra cable for it. I love it because the devices charhe fast but there is 1 annoying issue. When I unplug the USB cable from the phone the car charger shuts off. The blue LEDs turn off and you have to unplug and replug the charger back in for it to turn back in. If I unplug the USB cable from the charger side the charger remains on. Super confused. Any ideas?
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Jun 22, 2016 12:04
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Super Aggro Crag posted:Quick question about my car charger. I bought a Scosche ReVOLT 2x 12W 2.4A car charger for my work truck. Currently it charges a Galaxy S6 with a 3' Anker micro USB cable. I will also be using it to charge my iPhone 6 at the same time once I buy an extra cable for it. It's a power saving feature - the charger turns itself off so it doesn't waste power when you disconnect the load.
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Jun 22, 2016 12:26
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That is pretty annoying considering I have to unplug and plug in the charger everytime I connect my phone. I read on an Amazon review anout needing a charge only cable. Does that make sense?
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Jun 22, 2016 13:00
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That sounds less power saving and more defective. A charge-only USB cable is one that doesn't have connected data lines, but I don't see how that would help here.
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Jun 22, 2016 15:59
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I've got an 02 Corolla that I just replaced the battery in. Now it seems it's anti-theft/alarm function is activated. If a door is opened, the hazards flash, a red light on the dash lights up, the radio turns off and on, and there's a continuous chime like you left the keys in going off. It stops after 30 seconds or so (once the door is closed,) and the car can be started and driven around, but that alarm things will happen every time a door is opened. I assume there's some sort of reset that has to be done?
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Jun 22, 2016 17:47
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Geoj posted:Yeah, looks like it has DRLs (daytime running lights) that illuminate the high beams at a lower intensity, very common for Lexus. Those turning on with the stalk set to off is an intended function, the low beam bulbs are probably just burned out. tater_salad posted:Those lights have been on, unless you're always driving with your lights in the on position, so either that or unobservant . I thought they were daytime running lights but didn't see fogs so I assumed they were operated by the fog light switch. Double checked, it is the high beams that are on when it's set to off. I'll replace the other bulbs. Thanks a bunch!
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Jun 22, 2016 18:00
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