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DrBouvenstein posted:I've got an 02 Corolla that I just replaced the battery in. Do you have a key fob? If so, lock and unlock the doors. If not or if that doesn't work disconnect the battery, put the key in the ignition turn to "run" and reconnect the battery with the doors closed. That usually takes alarms out of FU mode.
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Jun 22, 2016 18:51
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Motronic posted:Do you have a key fob? If so, lock and unlock the doors. No fob, so I'll try the second method. Thanks.
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Jun 22, 2016 18:56
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I have a lovely Civic that I track on occasion. Is there such thing as a good oil temp, oil pressure, and water temp gauge packages that are easy to install, cheap, and reliable? Don't need to be pretty. It's a Civic.
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Jun 22, 2016 20:36
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'10 Mazda3 2.5L with some grinding noises and wobbling noises coming from the front passenger side, gets significantly worse with a passenger. Took it to a local shop, they quoted me $618+alignment to replace the carrier bearing, but that sounds really steep to me. Scheduled an appointment with the local Mazda dealer for a second opinion. Just wanted to throw it to the goon hivemind and see if that estimate sounds correct, and if the carrier bearing thing sounds accurate, because Googling confuses me on this subject. lament.cfg fucked around with this message at 23:33 on Jun 22, 2016 |
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Jun 22, 2016 23:22
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 Here's the spec of my jacked up suspension (bent strut, torn LCA bushings) Should my car be pulling to the driver or passenger side? Tashan Dorrsett fucked around with this message at 01:31 on Jun 23, 2016 |
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Jun 23, 2016 00:41
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FenderRXB posted:Thanks for the replies, running the site in compatability mode does show the diagrams, just no way to print them.
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Jun 23, 2016 01:01
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I have a 2013 Toyota Prius. The car runs perfectly fine with no problems. However, I notice that I have to replace my key batteries often. I have two separate smartkeys and after about a month or so of using either of them the car will say "Key battery low" after I shut it off. Anyone know what the cause of this could be? EDIT - Just out of curiosity, what is the worst case scenario for this problem? punk rebel ecks fucked around with this message at 02:19 on Jun 23, 2016 |
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Jun 23, 2016 02:10
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Really stupid question incoming. I recently got a new car. In the past I have had cheap, beat-up cars that just served to get me from A to B. Now that I have a nicer, new car, I'd like to ensure that I take good care of it. I'm well aware of all the preventative care/maintenance I need to do for it, but I need help on the exterior. My car has to be stored outside, with no cover from the elements. I live in the bay area, where the temps are ~30-50 at night and 60-90 during the day. It is incredibly windy where I live and rain is sporadic (though infrequent lately). It usually gets a lot of sun during the day. However, there is a fair amount of humidity and the car is often wet with dew every morning. I've been washing it using gas station car washes every few weeks, but it feels pricey for what I'm getting (not much). What are some recommendations for cleaning and protecting the car? I've tried searching online, but there are so many brands and products that it left my head spinning (do I need to use clay or wax or polish or some combo of all three). I found a self service wash area nearby that I can use to wash (can't do it in driveway due to drought restrictions). But I need a little help with the other stuff. I have a really old (10+ years) can of liquid glass that I remember a relative swearing by. But I'm open to other suggestions. Ideally, I'd like something that isn't super expensive, easy to use, and won't require a lot of reapplications (I have a 2 week-old that is taking up a lot of my time and energy). My biggest focus is something that can repel the moisture and prevent a lot of dirt/pollen buildup and sun exposure from affecting the exterior. Any tips ro recommendations?
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Jun 23, 2016 02:51
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punk rebel ecks posted:I have a 2013 Toyota Prius. I'm sorry, there's no fixing it. New car time. quote:However, I notice that I have to replace my key batteries often. I have two separate smartkeys and after about a month or so of using either of them the car will say "Key battery low" after I shut it off. Maybe you keep pressing buttons in your pocket, when you're too far away from the car for anything to happen? The worst case is you get an Amazon subscription to batteries.
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Jun 23, 2016 02:57
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Safety Dance posted:I'm sorry, there's no fixing it. New car time. gently caress! Safety Dance posted:Maybe you keep pressing buttons in your pocket, when you're too far away from the car for anything to happen? The worst case is you get an Amazon subscription to batteries. That is possible. Eitehr way, the batteries are so cheap that it doesn't really matter. Still I wonder what it is. I've been looking online and it isn't that uncommon of a problem, but noone figured out what it could be. Is it possible that it could be due to the car itself or it has to be due to faulty batteries and/or smartkeys? I say this post from someone with a similar problem and it has me a bit worried. I know it is a different car but it is the same general problem.
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Jun 23, 2016 03:03
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a worthy uhh posted:'10 Mazda3 2.5L with some grinding noises and wobbling noises coming from the front passenger side, gets significantly worse with a passenger. Are you certain he called it a carrier bearing and not a hub assembly or wheel bearing?
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Jun 23, 2016 03:15
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Could it be strut carrier bearing?
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Jun 23, 2016 03:17
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Douche4Sale posted:Really stupid question incoming. I recently got a new car. In the past I have had cheap, beat-up cars that just served to get me from A to B. Now that I have a nicer, new car, I'd like to ensure that I take good care of it. I'm well aware of all the preventative care/maintenance I need to do for it, but I need help on the exterior. I don't personally have the answers to your questions but I think this thread will help you a lot.
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Jun 23, 2016 04:32
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Douche4Sale posted:Really stupid question incoming. I recently got a new car. In the past I have had cheap, beat-up cars that just served to get me from A to B. Now that I have a nicer, new car, I'd like to ensure that I take good care of it. I'm well aware of all the preventative care/maintenance I need to do for it, but I need help on the exterior. There are a ton of quality brands covering a wide range of prices. IMO you can't go wrong with Meguiars...it's available everywhere, they make everything you need, and it's priced reasonably. Wash it, wax it well (which has the bonus of making it easier to wash later). I typically use a of glass cleaner from Safelite (the windshield installing company) and normal low-streak Windex. If you're just looking to keep things in good condition, you don't need to overthink it or overspend.
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Jun 23, 2016 07:40
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punk rebel ecks posted:gently caress! Welcome to The Future! where nothing works properly.
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Jun 23, 2016 07:49
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Douche4Sale posted:Really stupid question incoming. I recently got a new car. In the past I have had cheap, beat-up cars that just served to get me from A to B. Now that I have a nicer, new car, I'd like to ensure that I take good care of it. I'm well aware of all the preventative care/maintenance I need to do for it, but I need help on the exterior. Whatever you do, don't use any brushes, water blades or rough towels on the car. You could get the car treated ("sealed") professionally, which is supposed to last a long time and make it easier to wash. I don't know what options are available in the US. After that you could do a quick pressure wash every now and then (before it gets too horrid) and be happy with that. If you want to do it by hand, properly I'd get some nice stuff from theragcompany.com (I think they have starter kits), a couple of buckets and some products like Meguiar's. Watch some videos on youtube.
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Jun 23, 2016 08:39
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Elmnt80 posted:Are you certain he called it a carrier bearing and not a hub assembly or wheel bearing? Geirskogul posted:Could it be strut carrier bearing? It's not the wheel bearing, that's what I assumed it was when I brought it in. The word "carrier" was written on the paper, so definitely carrier. He described it as something involving the transmission and driveshaft and axle?
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Jun 23, 2016 12:15
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DrBouvenstein posted:No fob, so I'll try the second method. Thanks. Reconnecting the battery while the key was turned to 'Run'/'On' worked. New issue, sort of. While poking around in the engine area, I noticed that this set of wires in the lower right wasn't connected to the other half:  I followed it as best I could, and it looks like it connects to the top of the oil filter?    Is it for the oil pressure sensor? I'm assuming I should just go ahead and plug it back in? This car hasn't been driven much since I got it, it's for my GF's mother, but she still has to get her license first before she can register + insure it, so it drove like 3 miles from the people we bought it from, and maybe half a mile since then around the block a bit.
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Jun 23, 2016 14:07
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So I came to the conclusion that I simply can't afford my car with my new job. The job is amazing and I loge it but I took a 50% paycut coming here and won't be back making good money for another year or two. Between the car loan and full coverage insurance I keep falling more behind and I don't see myself catching up anytime soon. I am waiting to hear back from my auto loan company about refinancing but I honestly don't think it'll help. Should I just tell them to come repo my car and be done with it or do I have any other options?
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Jun 23, 2016 15:30
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a worthy uhh posted:It's not the wheel bearing, that's what I assumed it was when I brought it in. The word "carrier" was written on the paper, so definitely carrier. He described it as something involving the transmission and driveshaft and axle? Could it be talking about the bearing at the end of an intermediate driveshaft (Saab term at least) coming straight out of the transmission, and ending in a bearing before it fits with the regular driveshaft that goes to the hub? e: kinda like this? 
epic bird guy fucked around with this message at 15:47 on Jun 23, 2016 |
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Jun 23, 2016 15:35
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Super Aggro Crag posted:So I came to the conclusion that I simply can't afford my car with my new job. The job is amazing and I loge it but I took a 50% paycut coming here and won't be back making good money for another year or two. Between the car loan and full coverage insurance I keep falling more behind and I don't see myself catching up anytime soon. I am waiting to hear back from my auto loan company about refinancing but I honestly don't think it'll help. Should I just tell them to come repo my car and be done with it or do I have any other options? If you aren't under water in how much you owe, you could trade your car in and get something super cheap. My mother-in-law did that once.
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Jun 23, 2016 16:03
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SCA Enthusiast posted:Could it be talking about the bearing at the end of an intermediate driveshaft (Saab term at least) coming straight out of the transmission, and ending in a bearing before it fits with the regular driveshaft that goes to the hub? I just did a GIS for Mazda 3 halfshafts, it looks like they do use an intermediate shaft out of the transmission - the carrier bearing isn't pressed onto the half shaft (therefore requiring replacing the entire shaft to replace the bearing.) $600+ labor and parts is a bit ludicrous for a job that shouldn't take a competent mechanic more than an hour or two to complete, unless getting at the drivetrain requires extra work like dropping the subframe.
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Jun 23, 2016 16:05
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Safety Dance posted:If you aren't under water in how much you owe, you could trade your car in and get something super cheap. My mother-in-law did that once. Would it make more sense to get a personal loan to pay off the autoloan early and sell the car, rather than defaulting and having it repossesed?
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Jun 23, 2016 16:11
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If I had to guess I probably owe more than the car is worth by about $4k.
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Jun 23, 2016 16:19
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spog posted:Would it make more sense to get a personal loan to pay off the autoloan early and sell the car, rather than defaulting and having it repossesed? Almost anything makes more sense than intentionally defaulting. What the gently caress? Edit: Oh you're not the guy. I'm curious what kind of car this is that you're 4k underwater. But if you value your credit (and if you took a huge pay cut you need to) you should sell it and pay the balance. A personal loan isn't the worst idea...the payments will be much better but the APR will probably be slightly higher.
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Jun 23, 2016 16:28
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Godholio posted:Almost anything makes more sense than intentionally defaulting. What the gently caress?
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Jun 23, 2016 16:34
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Well because at this point I don't think I can catch up, and it has started to affect my ability to pay other bills. My thoughts are that yeah it will gently caress my credit up for a long time but the quicker it gets taken the quicker I can get rid of this stress and save up for a beater. As it stands I can't afford to reinstate my car insurance anytime soon and they are gonna pull tue registration for my car anyways.
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Jun 23, 2016 16:35
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I feel like the best route would be to sell it on Craigslist, pay most of the cash you get from that toward the principal on the car loan, and pick up something in the couple thousand dollar range. That'll cut your payments way down and/or help you pay it off sooner. And put any spare cash at the end of each month into paying down the principal, in addition to your regular payments.
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Jun 23, 2016 16:48
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Wait I'm dumb nm
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Jun 23, 2016 18:48
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Well the way it has been going I have been spending 95% of my weekly check trying to catch up on bills abd it just isn't working. Now my insurance is cancelled and they want a payment in full to get me back on, which would be $3200 (cheapest my agent found so far), which just ain't happening. I'm lucky to have $32 in my bank account right now. Even if I sold the car it would take me like 4 months just to save up for a beater, nevermind the insurance payment. I am so stressed out over this poo poo I am just ready to say gently caress it and have them take it.
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Jun 23, 2016 19:10
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Super Aggro Crag posted:Now my insurance is cancelled and they want a payment in full to get me back on, which would be $3200 (cheapest my agent found so far), which just ain't happening. Is that per half or is there some kind of security deposit involved?
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Jun 23, 2016 19:17
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Sounds like you have bigger problems than getting rid of a car. You should probably find (or make) a thread in the finance forum. https://forums.somethingawful.com/forumdisplay.php?forumid=200 Start here: https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3256838 I'm no expert, but I'd guess defaulting on a loan would be the worst case scenario when it comes to getting your finances under control. It will have significant repercussions for a long time. Even if it's repo'd and sold at auction, you'll still be on the hook for paying back the balance (I believe). It'd at least be better to sell it on your own terms to maximize the return. Uthor fucked around with this message at 19:21 on Jun 23, 2016 |
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Jun 23, 2016 19:18
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My car is a ford focus, 2004. It's loving terrible. I am trying to avoid spending more money on it. I've two questions, if anyone has the time to address them. The first one is, I had a bit of a situation with my car over the past six months. The battery light kept coming on, culminating in my car dying in mid drive. It turned out the alternator was bad. I replaced the alternator, but it happened again. Turned out there was some electrical/wiring issue. So I have a new alternator and there's been some work done on my car with regards to the wiring or whatever, but that damned battery light won't go out. I can't see it during the day, but when I use my car at night I can see that the light is still faintly on, and occasionally flickers stronger. Also, my car sometimes takes a while to start and seems like it might not start at all. Hasn't failed me yet though. Is this my car's new normal? Second, my brake light keeps flickering on. I thought I was seeing things at first because it's real brief - it'll be on for five seconds here, a minute there. It doesn't seem to come on if I'm braking in particular. I keep noticing it when I'm cruising down the highway. When this happened in my last car, it just meant the emergency brake had rusted out. So not sure if I should take this seriously or not.
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Jun 23, 2016 19:57
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I feel like letting your car be repossessed, going into bankruptcy, while still not having a backup car, would do far more harm than you're thinking of. Unless you have an alternate means of getting to work, that'll lead to you losing your job and then you'll really be in the poo poo.
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Jun 23, 2016 19:59
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Hopefully he's got an alternate means of getting to work, since his insurance is cancelled. The personal loan thing is probably the best option available now; defaulting on the loan is certainly the worst option. Also dude why is your insurance so expensive holy christ
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Jun 23, 2016 20:18
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Yeah there's a lot more going on behind the scenes. I found myself in a similar situation re: car payment and massive cut in pay. I refinanced my loan through a credit union. Slightly worse interest rate, but stretched payments out over a longer term and the total amount was lower since I was well into the original term. But I did that before there was a huge personal financial crisis. And I genuinely can't figure out how insurance balance would be that high (even with fees and penalties etc) unless his other car is a Lambo in which case he should sell that one instead.
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Jun 23, 2016 20:22
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I have a take home work truck so getting to and from work is not an issue, thank god. I just wouldn't be able to do anything outside of work or on the weekends without a ride -- which is doable. I just called the dealership I bought the car from and they said they want me to bring the car down to look at and see if theu can buy it back to break even. Only issue is the car is now unregistered and the dealership is 2 hours away. Really don't feel like getting arrested. Another option is to just pay the car payments and let the car sit unregistered and not drive it until I can save up money to insure it again. EDIT: I got approved for a refinance on my loan today but with a higher interest rate and it would only save me $20/mo with is pretty useless. The car is a 2014 Genesis Coupe so the resale value blows. I have a couple speeding tickets which is why I assume the insurance is so high. Super Aggro Crag fucked around with this message at 20:35 on Jun 23, 2016 |
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Jun 23, 2016 20:33
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Can you tell me how to take this off?  It looks like 2 hex bolts and the airbag assembly will come out. Then I have to unbolt the steering wheel. Will I need a puller? Is all this needed? I have a problem with the ignition and I have to have access the the wiring and possibly replace the unit
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Jun 23, 2016 20:53
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Yeah you'll need a puller. Autozone/Advance auto will rent them out for free with $20 deposit. Mine was the same. Two hex bolts, disconnect airbag, few allen screws for the horn switches and 4 screws for the cruise control buttons. My bolt holding the wheel on was torx security, and then I want to say when I put it back together it called for 27lbs/ft.
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Jun 23, 2016 21:08
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Fluorescent posted:My car is a ford focus, 2004...battery light kept coming on, replaced the alternator, but it happened again. Did you have this done by a garage or did you do it yourself? It's super common to get remanufactured alternators that are either DOA or fail shortly after installing them, if you had it done check the warranty period and get your car back in ASAP, otherwise I'd exchange it if you did it yourself. Super Aggro Crag posted:I have a couple speeding tickets which is why I assume the insurance is so high. $530/month isn't going to be the result of a few speeding tickets, that's a few DUIs/wreckless operation or a string of at fault accidents territory. Or else you're getting screwed by a perfect storm of bad actuarial statistics for your car (combination of high accident/theft/ticket rates and/or disproportionate number of owners under 25), same for your garage address with your own driving record, credit, age and marital status contributing as well.
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Jun 23, 2016 21:08
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