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A once-over with a swiffer or other type of effective dusting cloth immediately before you take your pictures helps a lot with that, I've found. For what little you miss, well, that's why god gave us photoshop.
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Jun 23, 2016 08:19
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goodness fucked around with this message at 09:54 on Jun 23, 2016 |
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Jun 23, 2016 09:48
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SRM posted:Too many posts about semantics, not enough about rad models Okay, you start.
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Jun 23, 2016 09:59
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SRM posted:Too many posts about semantics, not enough about rad models Agreed, and those are absolutely cool Smurfs! Meanwhile, our mancave ended up moving a bit last month which meant I got to pack and move everything. I took the chance to snap pictures:     Imgur Gallery Note that a) this is just what I had mostly painted at the time, and b) the blue-green and red-black Marines and tanks aren't mine.
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Jun 23, 2016 15:11
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stabbington posted:A once-over with a swiffer or other type of effective dusting cloth immediately before you take your pictures helps a lot with that, I've found. For what little you miss, well, that's why god gave us photoshop. Drake_263 posted:Agreed, and those are absolutely cool Smurfs!
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Jun 23, 2016 15:35
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It's one of my favorites, too! I'd love to field it more but people don't want to play against it after it plowed over my friend's Terminator deathstar the first time I played it..
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Jun 23, 2016 16:13
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X-posting from the 30k thread: 1. Marine eyes suck to paint. Marine eyes in those tiny slits from the Forge World heads is nightmarish. 2. I'm thinking I could give a slight edge highlight in a mid-tone silver but I'm worried it might overwhelm the models, yay or nay?
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Jun 23, 2016 21:05
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Classy guns.
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Jun 23, 2016 21:25
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Mango Polo posted:X-posting from the 30k thread: Edging silver would look fine on any gold parts, though use it sparingly--mostly on the higher points. It'll add a slight bit of 'pop' without overwhelming things. Also: what camera are you using? Currently I've been trying to take better photos and I think my main problem is just not having that great of a camera. My lighting is pretty good--three daylight bulbs with diffusion paper--so that's definitely not the issue.
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Jun 23, 2016 23:26
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Slimnoid posted:Edging silver would look fine on any gold parts, though use it sparingly--mostly on the higher points. It'll add a slight bit of 'pop' without overwhelming things. Photos: I'm just using a plain iPhone 6S and this amazing lightbox:  Yes, it's a shoe box with the sides cut out and a curtain clumsily wrapped around it to diffuse the lights with a pot of leadbelcher holding it in place and the whole thing is tilting heavily to one side. For the edging, this is the reference I had in mind:  I know for the vehicle and larger stuff I'll do some sponge chipping, but I'm not sure edging the red on smaller infantry will just look cartoony/create a whole bunch of random focus points. I'll at least do some on the gold though, good call. Mango Polo fucked around with this message at 23:51 on Jun 23, 2016 |
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Jun 23, 2016 23:39
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Mango Polo posted:Photos: I'm just using a plain iPhone 6S and this amazing lightbox: Somehow that set-up is getting better photos than I am.  I dunno, I feel like I'm doing something wrong lately. Or going about it in the wrong manner. I might be over-analyzing poo poo and there's something really simple I can do to make my photos better but it's escaping me.
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Jun 24, 2016 01:27
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Slimnoid posted:Somehow that set-up is getting better photos than I am. I think you're suffering the same problem I had with white backdrops. Your camera's metering is getting confused and underexposing your model. Somehow, firing in macro mode exacerbates this. Try a grey or black backdrop rather than pure white. Or even a blue gradient for that true oldschool styling.
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Jun 24, 2016 02:07
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Mango Polo posted:X-posting from the 30k thread: The Vallejo liquid gold paint line is great for this kinda thing. It's super thin and takes many layers when applied by brush to really see the base color come through. It just kinda adds a nice metallic glint when you apply a couple layers. You can do really subtle highlights to gold and bronze with the silver. What red metallic paint is that? It looks real nice. Gr4vyB04t fucked around with this message at 02:23 on Jun 24, 2016 |
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Jun 24, 2016 02:20
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Z the IVth posted:I think you're suffering the same problem I had with white backdrops. Your camera's metering is getting confused and underexposing your model. Somehow, firing in macro mode exacerbates this. Try a grey or black backdrop rather than pure white. Or even a blue gradient for that true oldschool styling. I tried using a black backdrop and I got an overexposure effect, making it look like total rear end. A grey or blue gradient might be the ticket though.
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Jun 24, 2016 13:27
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Slimnoid posted:I tried using a black backdrop and I got an overexposure effect, making it look like total rear end. A grey or blue gradient might be the ticket though. I think it's much more of a camera problem than a backdrop problem. I have no problems with my phone, old Fuji compact or Canon DSLR but my new Sony bridge camera exhibits the exact behaviour you describe.
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Jun 24, 2016 14:44
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You also don't need to be zoomed in as much, nothing will look good up that close Have a look at the zoom of everyone else you'd consider good photography
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Jun 24, 2016 14:56
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Z the IVth posted:I think it's much more of a camera problem than a backdrop problem. I have no problems with my phone, old Fuji compact or Canon DSLR but my new Sony bridge camera exhibits the exact behaviour you describe. Yeah, up until I get a different camera I have to make do with what I have. Skarsnik posted:You also don't need to be zoomed in as much, nothing will look good up that close I actually keep the camera back by about a foot or so and just hit the macro button. I might move it back a bit more, or just not hit the macro button and slide it in different positions to see what I get.
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Jun 24, 2016 15:23
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I just picked up 2 Winsor & Newton Series 7 brushes for the first time. Up until now I've just been using cheap ones bought from the local gaming store. How much of a world of difference am I getting in to? Any tips or tricks to them, will i need to pick up new painting techniques, etc? I know people hail them as top tier quality.
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Jun 24, 2016 16:49
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CommissarRed posted:I just picked up 2 Winsor & Newton Series 7 brushes for the first time. Up until now I've just been using cheap ones bought from the local gaming store. It's still a brush, it's a better brush, but it's still a brush.
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Jun 24, 2016 16:52
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I gotta get into some actual sable brushes as well as this happened to my synthetic after maybe five hours of use. 
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Jun 24, 2016 17:05
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Mugaaz posted:It's still a brush, it's a better brush, but it's still a brush. Yep. Your skill isn't going to magically increase. As long as your brush has a point it's fine - W&N7 just happen to have good points. I bought some a year or two ago and have been using my cheaper W&N watercolor sables and other cheap/mid cost brushes this whole time instead because I'm afraid of ruining the 7s lol.
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Jun 24, 2016 17:06
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The main advantage is compared to cheap and mid-tier brushes they come to and hold a much nicer point which really shines doing detail work. I rarely need to use my W&N Size 0 because the 1 is so versatile whereas before with a cheap set I'd be down to using 3/0 and 2/0 just to get tight paint control. With the finer tip from a larger brush you can hold more paint and not have it dry on the brush as fast.
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Jun 24, 2016 17:08
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Cat Face Joe posted:I gotta get into some actual sable brushes as well as this happened to my synthetic after maybe five hours of use. I picked up a synthetic Testors brush locally while waiting for a Sable Reaper brush I ordered to come in and it did that almost immediately. I figured the Sable Reaper brush would be good enough until I got around to ordering a new Series 7. I haven't really used it much since I found my old Series 7. BTW, is there an online shop that sells Series 7s alongside model paint or minis or other supplies? I like having a backup in case I do something dumb with my good brush. I either want to add it on to something else I want or wrangle together a couple of friends who also want one and go in on an order together.
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Jun 24, 2016 17:47
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Does Amazon count? That's where I get all my W&N brushes.
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Jun 24, 2016 18:14
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Cat Face Joe posted:I gotta get into some actual sable brushes as well as this happened to my synthetic after maybe five hours of use. This is why I bought them. All the models I've been painting have been with brushes that look like this. I wasn't expecting to suddenly be a golden demon winner, but i'm glad to hear they keep a point better. I've found the majority of sloppiness on my models comes from stray points and hairs going where I don't want them.
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Jun 24, 2016 18:18
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GoodBee posted:I picked up a synthetic Testors brush locally while waiting for a Sable Reaper brush I ordered to come in and it did that almost immediately. If you're in the US, Dick Blick sells them too. CommissarRed posted:I wasn't expecting to suddenly be a golden demon winner, but i'm glad to hear they keep a point better. I've found the majority of sloppiness on my models comes from stray points and hairs going where I don't want them.
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Jun 24, 2016 18:20
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I've got some W&NS7s and they're super nice, definetly improved my work over the GW standard brushes I was using before. I tend to be negligent in caring for my brushes though so I recently bought a whole bunch of different brush types from Dick Blick in an attempt to find something that performed well but was cheap enough to not worry about maintaining. Some of them were pretty good. If i have time tonight I'll take some pics and write up some reviews.
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Jun 24, 2016 18:32
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The best part about the "W&N7 is the best for minis painting" meme is that you'll have people who are completely new to painting but have lots of disposable income recommend it to other newcomers. Then they proceed to use it for drybrushing and thin your paints jobs. 
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Jun 24, 2016 18:36
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berzerkmonkey posted:If you're in the US, Dick Blick sells them too. That's where I got mine last time. I went in with some friends and we got a handful of them. Avenging Dentist posted:Does Amazon count? That's where I get all my W&N brushes. I think I browsed there a bit but they had a lot of poorly tagged crap from 3rd party sellers show up and I gave up. I can probably figure out how to buy the correct brush there. And I can add it onto any other random crap I want, not just hobby stuff. Thanks for the reminder.
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Jun 24, 2016 18:39
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CommissarRed posted:This is why I bought them. All the models I've been painting have been with brushes that look like this. Yeah, I've got another synthetic that got the tip curl after maybe an hour. Getting good brushes is not about being an amazing painter but making my hack jobs be less of a frustrating experience.
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Jun 24, 2016 18:41
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GoodBee posted:I think I browsed there a bit but they had a lot of poorly tagged crap from 3rd party sellers show up and I gave up. I can probably figure out how to buy the correct brush there. And I can add it onto any other random crap I want, not just hobby stuff. Thanks for the reminder. This is the listing I've used: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0013E68SU Pretty much the whole range available, with Prime. I dunno if they have the Miniature line, though.
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Jun 24, 2016 18:45
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Slimnoid posted:I tried using a black backdrop and I got an overexposure effect, making it look like total rear end. A grey or blue gradient might be the ticket though. You want to turn the brightness down on dark backdrops and up on white backdrops if you're not doing that already. I just take pictures on my phone, and most smart phones from last few years will let you do this somewhere in the camera settings.
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Jun 24, 2016 19:11
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Avenging Dentist posted:This is the listing I've used: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0013E68SU You don't want the Miniature line - the brush doesn't have enough body to hold a decent amount of paint.
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Jun 24, 2016 20:23
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Slimnoid posted:I tried using a black backdrop and I got an overexposure effect, making it look like total rear end. A grey or blue gradient might be the ticket though. Don't know what camera you're using, but check the settings for light measurement points. It's probably sampling multiple points by default. You want it to sample on a single point in the center. If everything else is set to automatic and you put the mini in the center of the frame, it'll adjust exposure time so that it's not under- or overexposed. Check it out, even old point and shoot usually have this option somewhere.
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Jun 24, 2016 21:35
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Cat Face Joe posted:Yeah, I've got another synthetic that got the tip curl after maybe an hour. Getting good brushes is not about being an amazing painter but making my hack jobs be less of a frustrating experience. Are you washing your brushes with hot water? That'll melt the glue that holds the bristles in place and ruin a brush after one use.
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Jun 24, 2016 22:48
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A good sable brush and some Masters brush soap is a one time investment. Both in your tools and your sanity.
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Jun 25, 2016 02:18
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I've never had any luck with sable brushes but everyone should have some of those soap pucks. I don't think I've ruined a brush since getting one.
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Jun 25, 2016 03:05
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I have my first real game of Infinity coming up this weekend, and with my Nomad Starter being more-or-less finished, I'm getting real pumped to play. I figured I'd share my minis with all the inspiring talent here and see what you think. Some of the bases aren't painted yet, and the Grenzer has some nicks that need touching up... AND the pictures may not be the best quality, but I would really appreciate any feedback any of you may have. I'm always trying to find the balance between quality and speed, though I feel I could do better with both.           
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Jun 25, 2016 05:50
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They are all really great but I really love your skin work.
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Jun 25, 2016 10:43
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Is there a recommended putty for gap filling? I see Green Stuff being named all the time, but that almost seems like a catch-all for modeling putty. Is there any real difference between that stuff and any other 2-part epoxy?
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Jun 25, 2016 23:33
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