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Thanks thread, picked up two Ubiquiti AC Pro ap's as part of my house networking in part due to this thread's recommendation. I have an older construction home which has required two access points for the main house well as a detached addition (though they are connected by the same roof). I have a need for a switch with POE where the IP cameras (4+1 for an ap) and in house cat5 runs drop (2) as well as another switch with just one POE connection where my NAS (Synology) is at in the addition. My back of the napkin math is at bare minimum in house I need an 8 port and for the addition I'm looking at least 4, but this leaves very little room for growth. Any thoughts? The runs are fixed due to the construction limitations.
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Jul 1, 2016 16:12
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You can always just plug in another unmanaged switch to your first one if you need to add capacity. You could potentially have a bottleneck if devices are talking back and forth to each other a lot, but with good planning it shouldn't be an issue at a small scale. Make sure not to create a loop though.
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Jul 1, 2016 16:53
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mediaphage posted:Depending on how long your runs are, it might be cheaper to buy in bulk and crimp the ends yourself Never crimp if you can avoid it. Put a jack down on the end of your cable and plug a cheap patch cord instead.
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Jul 1, 2016 18:08
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CrazyLittle posted:Never crimp if you can avoid it. Put a jack down on the end of your cable and plug a cheap patch cord instead. This cannot be repeated enough.
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Jul 1, 2016 18:32
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CrazyLittle posted:Never crimp if you can avoid it. Put a jack down on the end of your cable and plug a cheap patch cord instead. You mean like this and this?
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Jul 1, 2016 18:58
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yeah its a huge pain in the rear end to crimp things, you'll spend a fair amount of money just on the tools and it'll take you forever to get poo poo done properly not only that but putting a jack at the end gives you a lot more flexibility with what you can do with the cable. if you need to run a cable 10-15 feet from where it's terminated, you'll need a coupler and a cable and it will look like hot garbage. if its terminated with a jack you just plug a cable into your patch panel/wall plate also you can do rj11 over cat5. so if you have your cat5 terminated with a rj45 jack, you can just plug the telephone cable straight into it because the rj11 cable goes right into the rj45 jack, compared to getting an adapter and it looking like poo poo theres a reason when you look at a professional rack install that the cabling goes into a patch panel rather than just having an end on it plugging straight into a switch. if you ever need to change where things are plugged into it is way easier to switch a patch cable, and things don't get messy like this 
30 TO 50 FERAL HOG fucked around with this message at 19:23 on Jul 1, 2016 |
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Jul 1, 2016 19:17
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I agree with all of that
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Jul 1, 2016 21:11
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I think I have a relatively straight forward problem, but things aren't working like I expect them to work. I have a DSL modem+router (Pace 5268AC) and I want to repeat the wifi signal with my Archer C7 (TP-LINK AC1750). I followed the steps from here: http://www.tp-link.us/faq-440.html . However, there seems to be a problem with the DHCP. If I keep the DHCP enabled on the Archer C7, then I am able to connect to the wifi provided by the Archer C7 and access both devices. However, if I disable DHCP on the Archer C7 then I am no longer able to connect to it's network. Do I need to modify settings of the Pace 5268AC?
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Jul 1, 2016 23:21
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img-jobsecuritythroughobscurity.ogg
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Jul 1, 2016 23:35
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CrazyLittle posted:img-jobsecuritythroughobscurity.ogg The .ogg really makes this
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Jul 2, 2016 01:10
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What's a good and cheap switch with ~8 ports or so? It's gonna get plugged into an ER-L with a 500/500 Mb/s connection. I don't think I care about PoE and prefer a quiet/fanless one. Not sure what the difference between managed and unmanaged is, but one of the examples I read was managed switches give you eg QoS but I thought that was the ER-L's job so I think I'm inclined to say unmanaged as well.
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Jul 2, 2016 13:14
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Boris Galerkin posted:What's a good and cheap switch with ~8 ports or so? It's gonna get plugged into an ER-L with a 500/500 Mb/s connection. I don't think I care about PoE and prefer a quiet/fanless one. Not sure what the difference between managed and unmanaged is, but one of the examples I read was managed switches give you eg QoS but I thought that was the ER-L's job so I think I'm inclined to say unmanaged as well. My extra TP link that I will USPS to you for like $20
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Jul 2, 2016 13:55
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Boris Galerkin posted:What's a good and cheap switch with ~8 ports or so? It's gonna get plugged into an ER-L with a 500/500 Mb/s connection. I don't think I care about PoE and prefer a quiet/fanless one. Not sure what the difference between managed and unmanaged is, but one of the examples I read was managed switches give you eg QoS but I thought that was the ER-L's job so I think I'm inclined to say unmanaged as well. Any unmanaged 8-port gigabit switch should do. There's two halves to QoS: traffic shaping at the router/modem end, and prioritizing traffic over the switch. If you're not shaping at the router, the switch won't save you. If you're shaping on the router but not prioritizing on the switch you'll be OK until you're filling up the switch ports throughput.
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Jul 2, 2016 17:21
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"I'd like to add a server to the network." Installation project: 90 person hours, just for the network connection.
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Jul 2, 2016 18:18
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Do any of those el-cheapo managed switches from the OP support DHCP snooping or 802.1x? It doesn't look like it, but I just skimmed the Amazon specs and datasheets so I might have missed something. I want to dink around with those things on my home LAN. If not, what's the cheapest I can get in to those features on a gigabit switch? 8-16 ports is fine, fanless with external power bricks preferred.
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Jul 3, 2016 20:34
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wolrah posted:Do any of those el-cheapo managed switches from the OP support DHCP snooping or 802.1x? It doesn't look like it, but I just skimmed the Amazon specs and datasheets so I might have missed something. I want to dink around with those things on my home LAN. Maybe this TP-Link fits the bill? I know that the Edgeswitches have DHCP Snooping in the GUI, though those start at 24 port, are rackmount, and are almost twice the price.
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Jul 3, 2016 20:54
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wolrah posted:Do any of those el-cheapo managed switches from the OP support DHCP snooping or 802.1x? It doesn't look like it, but I just skimmed the Amazon specs and datasheets so I might have missed something. I want to dink around with those things on my home LAN. The 5 and 8 port Toughswitches do not support DHCP snooping or 802.1x. Rukus's suggestion is probably the cheapest you are going to find for these features.
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Jul 4, 2016 15:35
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We have a Netgear wnr2000v3 that's getting a little long in the tooth. Speeds are fine, but as we're spending more time in our (relatively small) backyard we're finding wifi range is lacking. We've also had to restart it quite a bit recently, for some reason it's started dropping connections and I haven't been able to diagnose the cause. I work from home, so having to restart the router and unreliability is a bit of a concern. We mostly use macs (2 laptops, 2 iphones), but I use a hardwired windows machine for work. Here's what i'm considering, let me know if there are any other options I should consider: Apple Airport Extreme - I previously tried a time capsule and found it to be terrible, the built in DNS server was slow, meaning that it took 2-30 seconds to lookup google.com. I ended up returning it, as nothing I tried made it faster. I'd be willing to give the Airport a shot, since it's bulletproof for most people and will probably give us slightly better range than we have now. Ubiquiti EdgeRouter X and UniFi AC Lite AP - This is probably overkill, as we have a pretty small house (<1000 sq ft) and our yard isn't much bigger. BUT, everyone seems to swear by these things. I don't really have a need for many features of the router, but I figured I might as well get a Ubiquiti router while i'm at it. It would also be easy to add a second access point later. TP-LINK AC1200 - I have no experience with TP-Link, but they get good reviews on Amazon. This might be the most reasonable choice for what we really need. Any thoughts you guys have would be appreciated! Edit: What about the TP Link Onhub? frogbs fucked around with this message at 21:51 on Jul 4, 2016 |
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Jul 4, 2016 18:15
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I use a couple of Netgear GS108Ts at home that have UI options for 802.1x at least, and iirc DHCP snooping. I've never tried either feature with them so I can't comment how well it works for those uses. Otherwise they've been set and forget. Another option worth considering for a home setting is a used/broken HP 1910. HP has a lifetime replacement warranty even on secondhand gear, and they didn't ask many questions ("what's wrong with it and what's your shipping address?") when I opened an RMA ticket before overnighting me a replacement free of charge. Firmware updates are also free as in beer, which is very nice to see from an "enterprise" vendor.
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Jul 4, 2016 18:16
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I ended up deciding to go with exactly Ruckus' recommendation: unifi controller, unifi gateway, US-24-250W switch, and two UAP-AC-PRO access points. My question is, when I have my house wired, what do I need to have on the ceiling to mount those APs? I imagine some kind of recessed low voltage box in the ceiling, with a jack, and maybe a 3" patch cable to connect to the AP. Am I on the right track? Or should I have the cable in the ceiling crimped and terminate with a plug which I can snake down into the AP? Can you point me to an example of how my house wiring should ideally be when I bring in the APs?
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Jul 4, 2016 20:48
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Graniteman posted:I ended up deciding to go with exactly Ruckus' recommendation: unifi controller, unifi gateway, US-24-250W switch, and two UAP-AC-PRO access points. The AP's come with mounting hardware and they are powered via PoE. So all you really need is a flat surface to mount the AP on and a small hole for the cat5e cable to connect to the AP from above the ceiling. But it sounds like you are on the right track.
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Jul 4, 2016 23:31
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frogbs posted:We have a Netgear wnr2000v3 that's getting a little long in the tooth. Speeds are fine, but as we're spending more time in our (relatively small) backyard we're finding wifi range is lacking. We've also had to restart it quite a bit recently, for some reason it's started dropping connections and I haven't been able to diagnose the cause. I work from home, so having to restart the router and unreliability is a bit of a concern. The OP pretty much covers everything you are asking. The Airport Extreme is expensive but very nice, and a good idea for Apple people. The ERX/ERL and AC-AP-Lite/Pro are powerful, featureful, and rock solid reliable. The Archer C5/C7/C9 are reasonably reliable/featureful and great bang for your buck. The Onhub is an odd duck. Antillie posted:However the OnHub is crammed with a beyond suspicious amount of interesting hardware that is not currently enabled. So clearly the OnHub is supposed to do all sorts of things in the future that it cannot do at the moment. What those things are and when/if they will be made available is anyone's guess.
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Jul 4, 2016 23:45
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My decade-old WRT54GL is finally starting to get a little flaky. So I'm in the market for a home router, but there's something I'm looking for that the recommendations in the OP don't mention: I'd want to blow away the stock firmware and install DD-WRT, or maybe one of the Tomato variants.  Anyone have a recommendation for something that's nice and hackable, and plays well with alien firmwares? I've been looking at the Asus RT-N66U.
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Jul 6, 2016 02:19
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It does, but to repeat: third-party firmwares are pretty hit-or-miss now due to the latest devices using hardware offloading that isn't implemented within the third-party firmwares, and many new devices just aren't getting any written for them. If you need specific features offered by dd-wrt/tomato, look into a Ubiquiti device, but the Archer series is fairly feature-rich (and stable) already.
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Jul 6, 2016 02:36
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Hey dudes. My lovely Australian ADSL2 connection just got upgraded to a new VDSL line. I'm paying for 100 down and getting 65 but that's another issue. With the changeover they also disabled my landline phone connection and changed it over to VoIP. Prior to this I was using their Modem/Router (A Technicolour TG799VAC) in bridge mode connected to my Netgear R7000 Router. The Netgear has way better range, QoS, custom DNS, and a whole host of poo poo that I use regularly. I'd like to continue using my R7000 as the router for my whole network and just have the TG799 on modem duty. The problem with this is that the TG799 has a VOIP connection that I need to use for my home phone. If I bridge the Technicolour, the VoIP ports don't work. Can anyone help? I'm an experienced computer user but a bit of a networking novice
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Jul 6, 2016 06:36
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If the ISP provided modem/router thing is also doing VoIP you may be stuck with using it as a router. You could always stick the Netgear behind it and do double NAT if you really want to. Alternatively you could switch your phone service over to a dedicated VoIP provider like Callcentric. But that requires you get your own ATA box. The OP has some info on switching to a VoIP provider. I am in the process of transferring my home phone number from TWC's overpriced phone service to a Callcentric VoIP line using a Cisco SPA 112 following the recommendations in the OP.
Antillie fucked around with this message at 14:15 on Jul 6, 2016 |
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Jul 6, 2016 14:13
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Do these newer routers like the C9 still implement old wireless standards? I'mma be mad if my N devices stop working.
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Jul 6, 2016 15:35
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Deviant posted:Do these newer routers like the C9 still implement old wireless standards? I'mma be mad if my N devices stop working. Yes.
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Jul 6, 2016 15:44
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BurritoJustice posted:Hey dudes. My lovely Australian ADSL2 connection just got upgraded to a new VDSL line. I'm paying for 100 down and getting 65 but that's another issue. With the changeover they also disabled my landline phone connection and changed it over to VoIP. Prior to this I was using their Modem/Router (A Technicolour TG799VAC) in bridge mode connected to my Netgear R7000 Router. The Netgear has way better range, QoS, custom DNS, and a whole host of poo poo that I use regularly. I'd like to continue using my R7000 as the router for my whole network and just have the TG799 on modem duty. The problem with this is that the TG799 has a VOIP connection that I need to use for my home phone. If I bridge the Technicolour, the VoIP ports don't work. Can anyone help? I'm an experienced computer user but a bit of a networking novice Look for a DMZ mode in the ISP provided gateway, and put your R7000 in DMZ mode. It's the closest thing to what you had before while allowing your phone line to still work.
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Jul 6, 2016 15:46
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redeyes posted:Yes. Ok. I'll see if this C9 helps. I have two machines with identical wireless cards, within 20 feet of each other, and one gets vastly slower effective internet speedtests (Speedtest.net, fast.com), which isn't a scientific test, but I'd expect them to be the same. Only other real difference is one is w7 and one is w10 (the w10 machine is slow, but improved slightly when moved to the location of the w7 machine). I suspect it's just the extra water heater and poo poo in the way, so hopefully this will help.
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Jul 6, 2016 16:59
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Deviant posted:I suspect it's just the extra water heater and poo poo in the way, so hopefully this will help. If that water heater is made of metal then that is probably the issue. Large metal objects do all sorts of crazy things to wifi signals. Its also possible that the windows 10 driver for the wifi card in question just sucks.
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Jul 6, 2016 17:15
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Antillie posted:If that water heater is made of metal then that is probably the issue. Large metal objects do all sorts of crazy things to wifi signals. Its also possible that the windows 10 driver for the wifi card in question just sucks. Well, I said water heater, but I meant air conditioner, and yeah. my shortest path route takes me through more metal objects than my roommate's PC. But I tried putting my PC where his was, and it didn't improve to the same level, so I suspect a combination of interference, driver fuckery, and windows 10 vs windows 7. Too lazy to reinstall w7 though. I'll explore that, or running a hard-line if the Archer C9 doesn't cut the bullshit.
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Jul 6, 2016 17:22
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Antillie posted:If that water heater is made of metal then that is probably the issue. Large metal objects do all sorts of crazy things to wifi signals. Its also possible that the windows 10 driver for the wifi card in question just sucks. So do large bodies of water.
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Jul 6, 2016 17:47
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I'm up at my grandparents' cottage for the week with my family. They've got some ISP-provided combo modem/wireless router (2.4ghz 802.11b/g/n) which seems to have problems where it freezes up when everyone is inside and active on the internet (between 8-10 phones/ipads + 2 smart TVs). For some reason they also have a TP-Link 2.4ghz 802.11b/g/n access point which has been plugged into the modem/router but all of its settings are still at default (I have no idea where this thing came from). If I moved it upstairs, made a new wireless SSID and moved about half of the devices it, would it (theoretically) clear up some of the traffic problems we're running into? I understand we're still limited by the ISP bandwidth but I don't know how well the ISP device handles congestion and my grandparents don't have admin access so I can't check any settings on it.
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Jul 6, 2016 19:01
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GobiasIndustries posted:If I moved it upstairs, made a new wireless SSID and moved about half of the devices it, would it (theoretically) clear up some of the traffic problems we're running into? Or just enjoy the cottage for a week. Star War Sex Parrot fucked around with this message at 19:15 on Jul 6, 2016 |
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Jul 6, 2016 19:11
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Star War Sex Parrot posted:It depends on what activity is causing the combo router/modem to poo poo the bed under heavy load, but offloading some of the Wi-Fi access point duties is unlikely to help. Your best shot with the equipment that you have would probably be to disable the router and access point capabilities of the combo (if possible) and let it behave strictly as a modem. Offload the NAT, routing, and Wi-Fi duties to the TP-Link and hope that the configuration is more stable. It's still possible the modem will crap out under heavy load in this configuration, but it's less likely. I'm surprised you're not having dual NAT issues already with the TP-Link in default configuration. Is anything else directly plugged into the combo besides the TP-Link router? The TP link isn't a router, just an AP, so the best I could do with it is move DHCP over, which wouldn't really do much. It's the only hard-wired device and hasn't been doing anything since nobody is connected to it. And yeah I'd rather be outside, but it's pouring out and is supposed to tomorrow also, plus I live out of state and don't make it up here as much as I used to, so I'm trying to sort as much out as I can while I'm here.
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Jul 6, 2016 19:26
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GobiasIndustries posted:The TP link isn't a router, just an AP, so the best I could do with it is move DHCP over. It's the only hard-wired device and hasn't been doing anything since nobody is connected to it.
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Jul 6, 2016 19:27
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Star War Sex Parrot posted:You're probably boned, then. I doubt offloading the Wi-Fi duties will keep the combo from crashing. It's worth a shot!
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Jul 6, 2016 19:46
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Any idea why my measured speed tests would drop to a fifth of their normal results on this new Archer C9, and be fine on the crappy old Belkin router? I'm getting a stronger wifi signal and a higher negotiated rate to the router, so that's not a bottleneck. Edit: Changing channels seems to have fixed it. Deviant fucked around with this message at 01:49 on Jul 7, 2016 |
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Jul 7, 2016 01:12
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Is there any trick to setting up an Archer C9? I just replaced my ancient buffalo G router with one and the speeds across all devices (iphones, tablets, pc's etc) seem slower across the board. I'm not in a wifi-congested area, but could I be on a subpar channel? I am using the default settings right now. Also, Is there any benefit to having both 2.4 and 5ghz channels running? Should I just stick to the 2.4 since I'm not competing with a ton of networks? Sorry if this has been covered a ton. edit: I have 15mbps TW cable.
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Jul 7, 2016 16:24
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