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George Zimmer posted:Just curious, do any of you guys still actually have a local hobby shop? Closest to me is atleast half an hour. There's one about 10 minutes from work but it's really only good for tools, color and glue as they deal mostly with rc. The nearest hobby store actually selling anything other than Revell is about 30 km away, though they deal in car models only. The nearest one with a wider selection is 50 km away. So yeah, weekend trips (I don't drive cars I just build them). Oh and there's like 3 Warhammer shops in the city centre, so that's nice for colour.
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Jun 23, 2016 22:11
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George Zimmer posted:Just curious, do any of you guys still actually have a local hobby shop? Closest to me is atleast half an hour. There's a smaller one about 20 minutes away but in such a place that I never get near it normally, so I usually only hit it up if I need something specific. They're about half RC shop and half model kits, with a decent selection from multiple manufacturers and a pretty good selection of various brands of paints and tools. When I go there I always end up buying something, if only to support them. For Revell kits I just hit up toystores since they have a much larger stock, there's two that I can easily get to with a pretty large selection in all scales.
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Jun 23, 2016 22:13
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I actually have 3 pretty good hobby shops within driving distance. One of them has a killer selection of paints and pigments.
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Jun 23, 2016 23:44
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Ensign Expendable posted:There are two in my city worth going to, half an hour and 45 minutes away. This is probably good since it prevents me from spending all my money there. Cause I will likely visit Toronto at some point in the future, what are they? I live in rural Newfoundland and we have one hobby shop on the island AFAIK, it's a three hour drive
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Jun 24, 2016 00:01
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There's a couple of places local enough to me, I guess. I kind of find it amusing that people complain about things being half an hour away though. Dublin isn't even that big a city and it's at least that far to the nearest one from my house. It is about as central as you can get without being underwater too.
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Jun 24, 2016 00:17
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Nebakenezzer posted:Cause I will likely visit Toronto at some point in the future, what are they? Wheels and Wings is awesome, and Dragon Hobby is pretty okay. There's also a lovely store at Bloor and Yonge with abysmal selection that charges $4 for Testors glue.
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Jun 24, 2016 00:44
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George Zimmer posted:Just curious, do any of you guys still actually have a local hobby shop? Closest to me is atleast half an hour. There are a few in my area but the best holes in the wall have all closed over the last 5 or 6 years. The remaining four-store local chain is actually pretty good, though.
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Jun 24, 2016 04:36
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Greyhawk posted:In personal modeling news.... God drat I'm a lazy slack-off do-nothing modeler compared to you. Well done on all those projects.
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Jun 24, 2016 05:56
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George Zimmer posted:Just curious, do any of you guys still actually have a local hobby shop? Closest to me is atleast half an hour. Depends on how you define 'local'. I live in the far west valley outside of Phoenix Arizona. In Tempe, about 45'ish miles from me is a really good hobby store, but very little wooden boat stuff (shocker) although it does have some. Up in NW Phoenix/Glendale, 30-35 miles from me at a guess, there are actually 3 very good hobby stores, 2 of which have extensive wooden ship collections as well as being full line hobby stores with great model collections, trains, and general hobby/crafting stuff. In addition there are numerous more specialized stores, with a good number of R/C focused shops a few places around the valley. So yea, I consider them local, but all except for an R/C focused shop are outside of your 'half an hour' range. Then again I commute 52 miles one way to the office every day too.
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Jun 24, 2016 05:59
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Great thread. Looking to get back into the hobby. For the record, it has been many many years. I'm talking a couple decades. I attempted to get back into it many moons ago and basically got into the kit stash stage thinking someday/tomorrow I'll get to them. Life, kids, etc, got in the way. Problem I always had was effin paint. But been reading thousands of posts across various forums in the meantime and I think I have better handle on what to go with. I grew up with the Testor's tube glue and enamels type stuff. To date me, I used to do balsa planes. Comet models. Used to gush over the Guillows big ones (B-25, P-38, etc) in the hobby store when I was a lad. Then I would glue bomb the usual AMT stuff into oblivion. Anyways, reading through posts have inspired me to do something about it. Anyone familiar with Rosso? I have a Rosso RX-7 that I feel would be a good one to start with. https://www.scalemates.com/kits/941129-rosso-24012-mazda-rx-7 I picked it up years ago, always had a soft spot for the FD. Alas, no ratings for it. Guess I'll never know until I try it.
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Jun 25, 2016 04:45
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C-Bangin' it 
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Welcome back to the hobby, I took about a 30 year break from it, so you aren't alone in how that goes! I have no advice to give on good ones to start back with, since I went full stupid when I re-started and went to wood.
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Jun 25, 2016 06:39
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 Something new on the slipway! I used Vallejo model color for the linoleum deck as a result of knocking over my deck paint enamel jar, but the stuff really just doesn't want to stick to the actual plastic, even when primed with Mr. Finishing Surfacer (which is really a great primer.) Is that everyone else's experience with VMC?
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Jun 27, 2016 00:12
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Triggerhappypilot posted:
Nice. A big desk could be an ocean I can't say I've had that problem with Vallejo. I've never used Mr. Surfacer, though - maybe the primer was still 'hot'?
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Jun 27, 2016 00:39
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Triggerhappypilot posted:
So tiny. They look really good, but man I don't know how you work with that tiny scale. As far as VMC, dunno, as I haven't tried Vallejo on plastic. My time in the shop has been really limited, but I have made some slight progress on the picket boat. I finished the other main cockpit deck.  And then I started working on planking the faces of the bulkheads that will be exposed when everything is completed.     I have a couple more bulkheads to plank, but they were stupidly already attached to the keel prior to realizing that they would be exposed, oops. I am going to try to plank them in place, we'll see how that goes. In the meantime I decided to work on one of the tricky pieces, the bow deck. This piece is tricky because of the two sections of margin plank that are curved and funky-shaped at the stem. Because of this, these pieces need to be custom cut out of a wider sheet of wood. I tried three times to get it right by tracing the outside of the deck and then measuring and tweaking, and this was the best of the three attempts:  At this point was when I realized that I'm a stupid idiot. I have plans, I have a scanner, and I have a laser printer. Also, I'm apparently too stupid to think of using those tools to make a thing called a pattern. Anyway, I scanned in the part of the plans with the bow, then messed around with the printer settings until I nailed the proper settings to get it to print in exact scale (because for whatever stupid reason the image the scanner makes is not the right scale when printed actual size). I cut out the appropriate part of the printed plan, and pasted them to the sheet of wood.  What do you know, using that 'pattern' thing is actually a pretty good way to make things. Who knew. This was the first piece cut out using the patterns.  Other than cutting the front shape a little odd, it's loving perfect, and having the front over-sized isn't a big deal, I can trim it back when it's done. The second part glued up with pattern still attached, and then removed.   I had to do a bit of careful trimming and sanding to the inside of the curve right at the bow because I managed to glue the 2nd piece in place slightly out of alignment with the first one, but some patience and sandpaper wrapped around the round end of a small file took care of it so that I could start the planking. I laid a 5/16" center plank and then started placing 1/4" planks to either side. Matching the curve at the end was easier than I thought, and this part went pretty well without a hitch.   And the finished bow deck with a coat of wipe on poly.  Still have to plank the stern which will require a 3-piece margin plank and then a couple of benches for the aft cockpit and the two bulkheads that are already attached to the keel I am also going to have to re-do one of the bulkheads because I realized that I didn't account for the propeller shaft coming through it, and made the planking notch way too high.
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Jun 27, 2016 00:44
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The Locator posted:So tiny. They look really good, but man I don't know how you work with that tiny scale. Thanks! The answer involves masking tape, and a lot more of it than what would be considered sane. Nebakenezzer posted:I can't say I've had that problem with Vallejo. I've never used Mr. Surfacer, though - maybe the primer was still 'hot'? Mr. Surfacer is a lacquer, and the coat was more than a week old, so I doubt it was still hot. I do think i figured out why some of it was peeling, though. I laid down the Mr. Surfacer pretty thin, so it's possible that it wasn't a problem with the VMC at all but instead a fault of the primer being too thin to form a consistent layer. I might have forgotten to scrub the mold release off the hull, too, but that's never really been a problem before.
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Jun 27, 2016 01:19
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The Locator posted:. Matching the curve at the end was easier than I thought, and this part went pretty well without a hitch. Beautiful work so far. Simply stunning. Do you have any advice on matching the curves? I'm in a similar situation right now where I have to plank the Bismarcks hull bottom with straight planks meeting curved planks and it's.... well, it's not going very well. I'm producing a lot of scrap wood right now. It's luckily just first planking, but I'd like to get a better grip on this.  right here in the middle is where the new planks are supposed to go Citroen update  Front bumper, floor mats, safety belt locks and padding and cover for the drivers seat. Greyhawk fucked around with this message at 12:53 on Jun 27, 2016 |
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Jun 27, 2016 12:50
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Greyhawk posted:Beautiful work so far. Simply stunning. Thanks. Matching the curve was easier than I thought because the curve is so slight when taken across the width of a plank. My method was fairly simple, first, cut a plank to approximate length, leaving a bit extra length. Next, lay the plank where it needs to go, placing the end over the margin plank and marking the spot where the side of the plank crosses the margin plank. Use a straight edge and a #11 blade to cut that angle straight. Now I have a plank with an angled pointy end. Test fit the plank and see how it needs to be adjusted to the curve. Using 200 grit sandpaper, sand a slight bevel into the entire angle where it will meet the margin plank (helps reduce any gapping). Still using 200 grit sandpaper, sand away the point a bit, along with adding a slight (very slight) curve to the pointy end. Test fit and repeat until the fit is tight and even all the way along the angle. Because the curve is so slight, the adjustments were very small, and concentrated onto the pointy end, and where the angle ended, since initially both ends of the angle would be tight, leaving a gap in the middle. Hopefully that description makes sense to you. If not, let me know and I'll see if I can cook up something in paint.
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Jun 27, 2016 14:43
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Thanks. I think this'll help. I mainly have problem with gaps and the pointy end not ending up pointy.
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Jun 27, 2016 21:07
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Not mine, but found this S'Jet baserunner on imgur 3D model  3D printed model  3D printed, painted, and lit model http://imgur.com/gallery/fePVG So incredibly jelly
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Jun 28, 2016 09:38
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first time a 3d printed thing made me want a 3d printer. other than the geometric candy of course
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Jun 28, 2016 09:53
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GT- is coming together nicely. Major holdup now is the body. I've got some paint on it but it needs a couple wet coats now. Been way too hot and humid out lately to spray (rattle cans sprayed in the garage) so it's kinda stalled for a while. Supposed to be nice this week so I'll try to get at least one coat down. I didn't have my black thinned enough when I first hit this stuff. I kinda like the texture, though.  
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Jun 28, 2016 16:06
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I like the textures you have going on! That's something I often have to struggle with.
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Jun 28, 2016 16:28
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Very clean! Some washes in the lines in the seats might make them pop a bit more but they look great as is. Here's one I finished a coupe of weeks ago:    
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Jun 28, 2016 16:45
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Nebakenezzer posted:I like the textures you have going on! That's something I often have to struggle with. Thin your paints less  . When it comes out of the airbrush and your first reaction is "ugh, god dammit..." then you're all set.George - That McLaren is awesome. I've wanted to pick up that kit for a long time.
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Jun 28, 2016 16:52
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Finally finished up my Fine Molds 1/144 scale Millennium Falcon! I'm pleased with how my first attempts at preshading turned out, but the gloss coat I used to seal the paint before putting down some oil washes darkened the model more than I was expecting:     Next up, a prolific and incredibly useful tank that saw a lot of action  
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Jun 28, 2016 16:59
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Greyhawk posted:Thanks. I think this'll help. I mainly have problem with gaps and the pointy end not ending up pointy. When I do the stern deck, probably tomorrow, I'll try to remember to show my process. ------- The last few posts have some drat fine models.
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Jun 28, 2016 17:16
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Triggerhappypilot posted:
Nice, I hope my little destroyer looks this good when I'm done with it, but there's some gloopy paintwork on the hull that will probably never come out right. Did you drill those portholes yourself?
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Jun 29, 2016 00:50
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Jaguars! posted:Nice, I hope my little destroyer looks this good when I'm done with it, but there's some gloopy paintwork on the hull that will probably never come out right. Did you drill those portholes yourself? Nope, they're molded on to the model.
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Jun 29, 2016 03:32
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Boaz MacPhereson posted:Thin your paints less Thanks! Not a bad kit but not too detailed as it's based on an old R/C kit.
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Jun 29, 2016 03:52
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MeruFM posted:first time a 3d printed thing made me want a 3d printer. other than the geometric candy of course That model is printed on a professional laser sintering machine -- you won't get that quality or detail from a home printer without a ton of work. Random question: what kind of paint is used industrially on plastic toys? If I was painting something for my kids, and I wanted the paint to stand up to banging around and abuse the way a Hot Wheels car or a Micro Machine does, what should I use?
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Jun 29, 2016 15:55
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George Zimmer posted:Here's one I finished a coupe of weeks ago: That's a wonderfully smooth finish. How you do that?
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Jun 29, 2016 16:27
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Mister Dog posted:That's a wonderfully smooth finish. How you do that? Thanks! I lay down color, decals, and a regimen of clear coat. Three mist coats, two to three wet coats. The most coats are important as I use lacquer, high gloss clear that can eat and deform decals if you go too heavy too soon. After letting it sit and gas out for a week, I hit it with high grit sandpaper. I use 2000 grit to start as it really cuts into orange peel and small drips. After the 2000 makes a smooth base, I work up to higher grits to build shine. I go 3500, 4000, 6000, 8000, 12000. If it's a racecar like this one, I'll usually stop at 6000 as they simply weren't super shiny in real life, but any road cars I build get the full treatment. After the 12k, the paint is almost mirror like, just with sandpaper. After that, I use polishing compound. I use Meguiar's Scratch-X, a swirl/scratch remover for real cars (it's essentially a mild polishing/rubbing compound, perfect for models). I dab a small amount on an old t-shirt and softly rub it in until the shine comes through. Once it does, I buff it with a dry section of the t-shirt for the final shine. Usually takes me two days, one day for the sandpaper and another for the compound.
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Jun 29, 2016 22:41
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This thread is way too quiet, so have a mini-update with almost no progress. My margin plank on the stern decking failed miserably. I made a paper pattern by tracing the outside of the deck, and then using a compass to run the inside edge and determine the centerline and split. The two outside edge pieces came out great, but somehow the curve on the center piece is wrong. My guess is that the paper didn't get laid down onto the wood properly when it was glued, since it's just notebook paper. So now I'm going to re-do it using card-stock and see if that works better since it is much stiffer obviously, and should be much more resistant to being changed when glued to the wood.    I've found that all of the decks that I planked have developed a massive amount of warp, I'm guessing due to the stress as the glue dried between the layers, so now all of the completed pieces are beneath a big stack of heavy wood and steel weights to hopefully straighten them out. Also did a little bit more work on the windlass for the Cheerful, just to do something a little bit different. Built out both of the gears.  
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Jul 2, 2016 22:58
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Stern margin planking, round 2! Made new patterns, this time out of card stock (manila folder) so that it would not deform when gluing it to the wood.  After cutting the wood out, test fit with the patterns still on the wood, and it's much better, the curve is pretty spot on, just need to make the joints fit tight.  I glued the center curve into place, and then adjusted the joints on the side pieces to fit well, and then glued them in place and clamped.  I can live with this.  Now I can add the planks.
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Jul 3, 2016 07:28
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Looks great. I'll be trying out your techique for making pointy curving plank ends later today. I was fighting this plank, that is bending, turning and winding into all directions at once, but I finally wrestled it and its counterpart into submission.  EDIT: This actually worked out great. Thank you! 
Greyhawk fucked around with this message at 17:51 on Jul 3, 2016 |
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Jul 3, 2016 11:51
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Looks like some good progress Greyhawk. Looking forward to seeing that thing come together. Building a big WW2 ship out of wood is just such an odd concept to me, I never knew that was a thing at all before I started going through all the build logs on MSW and found a couple of them there. Here is that step-by-step thing on plank fitting that I promised last week and then didn't actually get to do until this morning. The plank in question isn't a very good example since it's a very slight angle/curve at this location, the the process doesn't change at all, just the angle and length of the joint. Step 1 - Place a piece of planking so that the end against the existing plank is right at the point it needs to be, and mark the opposite edge where it crosses over the margin plank. At this point I also mark the other end of the plank for length, leaving about 1/8" or so (better too much than too little) extra to allow for the shortening of this plank as I work the end.  Step 2 - Using a small mitre-box I trim the piece to length. I sort of failed on the camera angle here, but you can get the idea.  Step 3 - Also a failed camera angle. Using a steel straight edge, I use a #11 blade to trim the end of the plank based on the mark I made on the edge to the point that was against the existing plank. This leaves me with a slightly long plank with an angled end.  Step 4 - Place this cut piece into position and look at how it fits. As can be seen here, I made the angle a bit too sharp, so the plank it tight where it's against the existing plank (where the blade is pointing) but leaves a gap as you get to the opposite edge. This tells me that I am going to sand down the point of the angle, trying to curve it slightly to the opposite end where no sanding will be done.  Step 5 - Sanding. I just do this by hand, using a 220 grit sandpaper, and kind of wing it based on how the fit was.  Step 6 - Dry fit again, and see what corrections need to be made. In this case you can see that I over-sanded the 'point', but there is still a gap at the opposite edge (red arrows) so now it needs to be sanded in the center where it's now tightly fitting (black arrow). I just repeat this process until the fitment is good enough to make me happy.  Step 7 - Final dry fit. To my eyes this looked really good. The camera close up reveals that I could have done a bit more sanding as there is still a slight oversanding at the 'point' of the angle, but it's not really something that will be visible to the eye, especially after final finishing.  Step 8'ish - Not pictured - the center plank that was previously placed already has been coated with lead from a #4B artists pencil to simulate caulking in the finished deck. The new plank now gets the same treatment, but only on the end where it meets the margin plank, and the outside where the next plank will be laid. Coating both sides of a joint makes it too heavy for my taste. Before adding the lead, the entire side of the plank gets a very slight bevel sanded into it with 220 grit sandpaper so that the deck surface of the planks mate very closely together. The end where it will join with the margin plank was sanded with a bevel when I was shaping it. Step 9 - Plank is glued in place and clamped. Glue (yellow wood glue) is placed on the plank itself in a very thin layer using a flat end of a plank to smooth is and remove all excess. The same thing is done on the deck surface where it will be glued.  Step 10 - Remove clamps and see how it came out.  The darkness of the joint along the margin plank will be reduced to something similar to what you see on the margin plank joints after sanding, and then hopefully be about the same as the bow planking came out once it's finished and wipe on poly is added.
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Jul 3, 2016 20:15
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The Locator posted:Looks like some good progress Greyhawk. Looking forward to seeing that thing come together. Building a big WW2 ship out of wood is just such an odd concept to me, I never knew that was a thing at all before I started going through all the build logs on MSW and found a couple of them there. That's awesome. Thanks for tutorial. I think building modern ships out of wood is a very European thing. At least from what I have seen most of the kits available in the US only seem to offer historic sailships in wood and maybe the titanic. Managed to get some good amount of work done today and should be finished with the first planking in the next days 
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Jul 3, 2016 20:52
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Greyhawk posted:I think building modern ships out of wood is a very European thing. At least from what I have seen most of the kits available in the US only seem to offer historic sailships in wood and maybe the titanic. It's probably a bit of that, and also scale. The biggest ships you used to be able to get in plastic were 1/350. 1/200 is a pretty 'new' thing (relatively speaking) and even those are small'ish compared to the beast you are making. It would be extremely expensive, not only for the molds, but to ship the box required for a ship in the scale you are making, therefore a different construction method is pretty much required. I suppose they could use a multi-piece hull of some sort, but I've never found a multi-piece plastic assembly to come together well or to be very strong (although I'm sure it would be possible to design one). At a guess nobody would want to invest in the molds though, since it would be a pretty low volume kit I'm sure. With wood there are no molds, just computer files for the laser cutter for the frames, so the initial outlay is probably much lower, and they don't have to store big molds somewhere, since everything to build it is on a computer disk. I'm quite interested in seeing how they (you) handle the complex and sharp curves at the bow.
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Jul 3, 2016 21:29
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And, finished the stern deck planking. Finished and sanded -  Coat of wipe on poly -  Pretty happy with the way the decking is coming out. Have a couple benches and the bulkheads left to do before I can finally start assembling stuff. The Locator fucked around with this message at 23:47 on Jul 3, 2016 |
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Jul 3, 2016 23:45
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While not a boat, tank, car, or plane, I finally finished the tail of my robot dinosaur, the Gojulas. It took a long time and had a bazillion parts. Also, panel lines. So many panel lines. Have some (bad) pictures: Tail curved and guns at the ready.  Tailed curved and guns stored away.  Rear stabilizers deployed in stationary mode.  Rear stabilizers deployed in mobile mode (the wheels at the bottom spin)  Connected to body with a 12 oz. can shown for scale.
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Jul 4, 2016 01:39
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