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What country are you in? Spain. What are you using the system for? Mostly gaming. What's your budget? Around $700 I guess, though it's a bit hard to tell because of the different currency and hardware prices. If you're gaming, what is your monitor resolution? Aiming for 1080p at high/ultra settings. In a couple months I'll be moving to a small apartment, so I'm looking to replace my current huge PC with something more portable. So far this is what I've come up with: PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant CPU: Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($238.99 @ SuperBiiz) CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212X 82.9 CFM CPU Cooler ($39.99 @ Newegg) Motherboard: Asus Z170I PRO GAMING Mini ITX LGA1151 Motherboard ($159.99 @ SuperBiiz) Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($74.88 @ OutletPC) Case: BitFenix Prodigy (Black) Mini ITX Tower Case ($75.00 @ Amazon) Power Supply: Corsair RMx 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($89.99 @ Newegg) Total: $678.84 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-07-02 17:54 EDT-0400 And these are parts that I'll be reusing: Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 970 4GB Twin Frozr V Video Card Now I don't really know the first thing about cases, I just picked the Prodigy because I think it looks nice and seems easy to work with, but I'm wondering if I could go smaller than that while keeping noise down and staying within budget? Feel free to point out any other dumb choices.
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Jul 3, 2016 15:40
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Your Loyal Vizier posted:Try reseating everything other than the CPU. I had a similar issue on my last rebuild, and after hours of frustration it turned out I had my wireless card in the wrong pci slot. I was too cocky to check my assembly fully and that was all it took to put it into a boot loop. Tried resetting the GPU, moved the RAM back to where it was, and made sure all the wires and stuff were in firmly and connected - it's gone back to it's original position of the LED lighting up, the case fans going but that's it. I can't hear any components being tested afterwards and there's no bleeps at all. I'm assuming plugging in the hd audion in the motherboard would mean I would get the beeps if it's working? I guess I need to go back in and take the CPU cooler off and have a look to see if there's any damage to the processor or the socket - though one thing I have noticed is the the connecting cables to the SDD drive and optical drive don't really push in very far, is it normal for the SATA cables to not click into place, and can the peripherals be causing the problem?
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Jul 3, 2016 16:26
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Weasling Weasel posted:Tried resetting the GPU, moved the RAM back to where it was, and made sure all the wires and stuff were in firmly and connected - it's gone back to it's original position of the LED lighting up, the case fans going but that's it. I can't hear any components being tested afterwards and there's no bleeps at all. I'm assuming plugging in the hd audion in the motherboard would mean I would get the beeps if it's working? The sata power cables are weird and don't click or anything, They only go on one way though so make sure you didn't force them on the wrong way (this is really hard to do unless you are a he-man). The actual SATA cables don't really click either but they are secure if you check them and the little clips on them have to be pushed down to get them off so make sure thats the case. You should take the CPU cooler off and can you get an extra pair of hands to help you and make sure you get it right? It shouldnt have damaged anything but if it isnt making contact the CPU could overheat and shut off before you even get to POST. For that matter since you are new to building make absolutely sure the CPU is seated correctly. (Do NOT push it in, just make sure all the little tabs and indents on the chip are lined up with the socket. Can you post your build details? Last but not least is what video input are you using? I just built my computer and I couln't get it to post with the onboard video, but once I put my graphics card in it worked. e: Lastly lastly, don't give up! hang in there and just keep investigating. If you absolutely rule out EVERYTHING, all the stuff is generally warrantied.
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Jul 3, 2016 17:26
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AVeryLargeRadish posted:Here is a build for you: I pretty much used this, but went for a Asus GTX 970 rather than the ATI R9 480 when the specs came out, and it appeared it didn't really bench any higher but with a lot more power consumption, and changed optical drive as I was waiting for like 3 weeks for the one in the list to shift, but otherwise I just took everything directly off that list. I'll take the CPU cooler off and just make sure the CPU is seated fine. I originally was trying to use the little CPU installer tool, but I couldn't get the processer to sit in the installer snugly and click, so I just placed it down in the socket arrow-to-arrow myself.
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Jul 3, 2016 17:39
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Weasling Weasel posted:I pretty much used this, but went for a Asus GTX 970 rather than the ATI R9 480 when the specs came out, and it appeared it didn't really bench any higher but with a lot more power consumption, and changed optical drive as I was waiting for like 3 weeks for the one in the list to shift, but otherwise I just took everything directly off that list. I'll take the CPU cooler off and just make sure the CPU is seated fine. I originally was trying to use the little CPU installer tool, but I couldn't get the processer to sit in the installer snugly and click, so I just placed it down in the socket arrow-to-arrow myself. Did you make sure to plug the modular PSU cables in the correct end? I've been working with computers a long time and I just got my first modular PSU with this build and even I was confused at first. Another thing to try is taking out one ram stick and trying that one alone and then if that doesn't work try the other one alone also.
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Jul 3, 2016 17:52
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Do you mean the fact that there are like two or three connectors at the end of each cable? Can you plug them in back to front? I've been plugging the ones with the actual label (CPU, motherboard etc) into the PSU and then the other sides into the motherboards, and then just connecting whatever was needed to cover the amount of slots on the mobo (for instance, the cpu power cable has a 4 hole and 2 hole connector attached to each other at the end which I've put in the 6 hole slot on the motherboard)
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Jul 3, 2016 18:06
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sertalman posted:What country are you in? Spain. I use a Prodigy and it's pretty great, however it's pretty big and heavy for a mITX case. If you want to go smaller, I'd suggest the Silverstone RVZ02 or a Fractal Design Node 202.
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Jul 3, 2016 18:22
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Weasling Weasel posted:Do you mean the fact that there are like two or three connectors at the end of each cable? Can you plug them in back to front? I've been plugging the ones with the actual label (CPU, motherboard etc) into the PSU and then the other sides into the motherboards, and then just connecting whatever was needed to cover the amount of slots on the mobo (for instance, the cpu power cable has a 4 hole and 2 hole connector attached to each other at the end which I've put in the 6 hole slot on the motherboard) Um not sure. Was meaning just to make sure you are plugging the correct end into the actual PSU and the the other end to the motherboard or peripheral. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rucfmsGjPow
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Jul 3, 2016 19:35
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So I have refined my tentative build to this : PCPartPicker part list CPU: Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($238.99 @ SuperBiiz) CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($29.49 @ Amazon) Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($74.88 @ OutletPC) Power Supply: EVGA 650W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($74.49 @ SuperBiiz) Don't mind the prices, I'm buying locally. I will be keeping the case + gpu for the time being, while the rest of the current stuff will be used to upgrade my parents-in-law pc (which is actually my previous pc, it's now 9 years old so it's starting to fail), and I'll get a new GPU once the dust settles down after the recent releases. Probably the 1070 unless something cheaper and better thana 970 comes out in the meantime. I am still missing the motherboard, there are these two models that look fine: Msi Z170A Krait Gaming MSI Z170A Gaming M3 for literally the same price. Which one would be best? The Krait goes well with the black-and-white aesthetic of my case, but if the other one has better features or something I'd take it without problems. I really can't wrap my head around what makes a motherboard good besides "the best/latest chipset" and "it won't burst into flames spontaneously" TorakFade fucked around with this message at 20:27 on Jul 3, 2016 |
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Jul 3, 2016 20:21
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Krait's better. It has more PCIe and fewer PCI slots and supports SLI whereas the other one doesn't. It does have fewer SATA ports but still a good number and both support M.2 so you should be good there. They are mostly the same, as you suggest.
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Jul 3, 2016 20:41
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Eletriarnation posted:Krait's better. It has more PCIe and fewer PCI slots and supports SLI whereas the other one doesn't. It does have fewer SATA ports but still a good number and both support M.2 so you should be good there. They are mostly the same, as you suggest. Thanks. But you made me think again.. What would I lose by going with this one? https://pcpartpicker.com/product/qJbkcf/msi-motherboard-z170apcmate It's almost 50$ cheaper, and since I don't plan on extreme overclock or anything fancy it would be nice to save some cash for that sweet 1070.
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Jul 3, 2016 21:32
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Bleh Maestro posted:Um not sure. Was meaning just to make sure you are plugging the correct end into the actual PSU and the the other end to the motherboard or peripheral. I've taken the side of the case off to have a look to see how it works when I press the power on, the CPU and case fans turn on, there's a green pwr led showing on the motherboard, there's a white light where the power connects into the GPU and when I press the power on button the DRAM_Led stays on a constant red light. I've read the manual and it suggest that's suggests a ram problem, but I've also read online that with ASUS motherboards the led is also generally used to communicate problems generally. There's the ominous Mem_ok button next to it, but I'm worried about touching a component on a live and powered on PC, and I don't know whether poking it with the end of the pen when power is going into it seems a smart idea or not. Can the CPU being fault, or a bad mobo cause the DRAM LED to light up constantly, or is likely to only be the RAM which is causing an issue?
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Jul 3, 2016 21:58
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Anyone have any opinions on this external hard drive? I need one before I build my new PC, and I need it to be at least 5TB. This is 8 and it's affordable, and Seagate is supposed to be a decent brand, so it looked like a good deal to me. Only thing I dislike about it is that it appears to need an external power source. I guess that's standard, but if anyone knows of a backup drive that doesn't need one, I'd love to see it.
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Jul 3, 2016 22:08
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WattsvilleBlues posted:A friend is asking about this motherboard for a Skylake build: Anyone?
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Jul 3, 2016 22:25
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WattsvilleBlues posted:Anyone? I can't say, I'm not sure what the aversion to the Gigabyte motherboards is supposed to be in the first place. They used to be a well respected brand
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Jul 3, 2016 22:27
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Zero The Hero posted:Anyone have any opinions on this external hard drive? I'm not sure about that external in particular, generally I'm not a huge fan of external disks or seagate in particular. That said, any external that has a 3.5" hard disk in it is going to require additional power. You can get externals that have 2.5" laptop drives in them instead which can draw enough power from USB to run but I think the max capacity is around 2TB on those.
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Jul 3, 2016 22:36
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WattsvilleBlues posted:Anyone?
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Jul 3, 2016 23:15
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Gigabyte has hosed with power delivery and changed out motherboards for shittier versions while selling them under the same label. It probably won't blow up in your face, but lovely power delivery can absolutely fry your parts/motherboard so you want to stick with another company if at all possible.
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Jul 3, 2016 23:20
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Cat Army 
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The Iron Rose posted:Gigabyte has hosed with power delivery and changed out motherboards for shittier versions while selling them under the same label. It probably won't blow up in your face, but lovely power delivery can absolutely fry your parts/motherboard so you want to stick with another company if at all possible.
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Jul 3, 2016 23:26
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Rexxed posted:I'm not sure about that external in particular, generally I'm not a huge fan of external disks or seagate in particular. That said, any external that has a 3.5" hard disk in it is going to require additional power. You can get externals that have 2.5" laptop drives in them instead which can draw enough power from USB to run but I think the max capacity is around 2TB on those. I've heard bad things about Seagate, and more bad things about Western Digital. My personal experience with both has been solid. What are my options here?
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Jul 4, 2016 00:18
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The Iron Rose posted:Gigabyte has hosed with power delivery and changed out motherboards for shittier versions while selling them under the same label. It probably won't blow up in your face, but lovely power delivery can absolutely fry your parts/motherboard so you want to stick with another company if at all possible. Equally important is general principles gently caress you for pulling dishonest poo poo like that. Zero The Hero posted:I've heard bad things about Seagate, and more bad things about Western Digital. My personal experience with both has been solid. What are my options here? I think the worst Seagate stuff was teething problems with their drives when they cracked the 1 TB barrier but they've been sorted out to be acceptable, but I'm really not sure. I know their early 1.5 TBs were not good at all.
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Jul 4, 2016 00:25
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Zero The Hero posted:I've heard bad things about Seagate, and more bad things about Western Digital. My personal experience with both has been solid. What are my options here? I've got a 500GB Seagate that's been working perfectly since 2007, but I've also had a couple 2TB Seagate drives up and poo poo the bed over night before within the last few years. 8TB for $220 is pretty nice, but that kinda tells me these might not be the best drives they're using, maybe? I'd just get a large capacity HGST and stick it in an external enclosure if you need an external drive.
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Jul 4, 2016 00:30
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Weasling Weasel posted:The youtube video helped, but turned out that I'd all plugged the pieces in the correct way, so hasn't made a difference. Took off the cooler, took out the processor - none of the pins on the socket looked damaged, and I manage to install the CPU this time round with the installation tool just to make sure it lined up exact, and incidentally screwing the cooler back in second time round was a lot easier when the motherboard was already seated inside the case on the standoffs. I've tried using 1 ram stick and in different slots, and still no beeps on Post on power up. Try taking out the GPU and booting from the motherboards onboard video if you haven't tried that yet. I don't think you should be poking anything on the mobo while it's on. I'm going to look at the manual real quick. There's a chance it is a bad batch of RAM, unlikely but that's probably where I'd start first. e: Apparently I was wrong. Try this: 
Bleh Maestro fucked around with this message at 01:04 on Jul 4, 2016 |
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Jul 4, 2016 00:55
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I think I'm about ready to pull the trigger on my PC. I just want a final check here. PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant CPU: Intel Core i7-6700K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor ($345.99 @ B&H) CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-U9B SE2 37.9 CFM CPU Cooler ($59.99 @ Amazon) Motherboard: MSI Z170A GAMING M7 ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($207.98 @ Newegg) Memory: G.Skill TridentZ Series 64GB (4 x 16GB) DDR4-3200 Memory ($399.99 @ Newegg) Case: NZXT H440 (Matte Black) ATX Mid Tower Case ($99.99 @ Directron) Power Supply: EVGA 750W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($75.98 @ Newegg) Total: $1189.92 I probably won't actually buy all that RAM, but I'm confident I can find a suitable replacement. I wouldn't mind a second opinion on the motherboard and power supply, though. I know the mobo is more than I need, but I like the aesthetic. I'm looking for criticism on quality, not price. As for the PSU, I'd actually like to replace that one with a quieter one if anyone has any recommendations. I definitely want it to be modular and at least 550W, maybe more. I'll probably put a GTX 1080 in it eventually, but I'm really not sure. It would be nice if someone could double check my CPU cooler too. All I know is that Noctua is supposed to be quiet, and quiet is what I'm going for. I'll be re-using my current video card and my hard drives for now, so those are covered. Any other advice would be great.
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Jul 4, 2016 06:47
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That's way more RAM than nearly anyone needs, but you've addressed that in your own post. 16GB seems to be the sweet spot for high-end users at this point. PSU seems fine, that brand is a popular choice around here, but again you can easily get away with less wattage unless you're planning to run dual cards or something. The new Pascal 10x0 cards are very power-efficient. I would recommend 650W, saves you money while still giving you some leeway.
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Jul 4, 2016 07:14
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Phlegmish posted:That's way more RAM than nearly anyone needs, but you've addressed that in your own post. 16GB seems to be the sweet spot for high-end users at this point. A 650W wouldn't really save money, that 750W unit has a deep enough discount via rebate that there's only two gold 650W units cheaper than it, and that's by 5 dollars.
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Jul 4, 2016 07:33
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Zero The Hero posted:I think I'm about ready to pull the trigger on my PC. I just want a final check here. The gaming M5 motherboard is pretty much the same for $30+ less 64gb RAM 
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Jul 4, 2016 07:52
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Bleh Maestro posted:The gaming M5 motherboard is pretty much the same for $30+ less I'm pretty sure I'm just going with 32gb ram. The 64 set is just there because it looks nice. I'm more concerned with the PSU and CPU cooler being quiet. I don't care about the motherboard price.
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Jul 4, 2016 08:44
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TorakFade posted:
TorakFade posted:Thanks. But you made me think again.. Any input? I am genuinely curious, specs look very similar and the price difference is significant..
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Jul 4, 2016 11:02
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Neo_Crimson posted:I use a Prodigy and it's pretty great, however it's pretty big and heavy for a mITX case. If you want to go smaller, I'd suggest the Silverstone RVZ02 or a Fractal Design Node 202. Those console-sized cases look neat, but I'm a bit worried about noise, since I'm guessing airflow is not great? Would a Corsair 250D or a Node 304 be a reasonable compromise, or is the difference just not worth it?
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Jul 4, 2016 11:35
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TorakFade posted:Any input? I am genuinely curious, specs look very similar and the price difference is significant.. Generally speaking if you don't know why you need a more expensive motherboard, you don't need a more expensive motherboard. I have an MSI Z170-A Pro which is basically an MSI Z170A PC MATE without the PCI slots, it didn't catch fire when I turned it on and it overclocks similar parts (6600K and G.Skill 3000 MHz RAM) fine.
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Jul 4, 2016 13:20
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What country are you in? US. What are you using the system for? Gaming and Youtube. What's your budget? $1200, hard cap If you're gaming, what is your monitor resolution? 1080p high/ultra, potentially VR later I'm building a system for my roommate. He likes things consistent, doesnt like tinkering, so I'm trying to build him something simple and reliable. Stability is key. Overclocking is definitely out. Here's what I have so far: PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant CPU: Intel Core i5-6500 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor ($199.99 @ NCIX US) Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws 4 series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2133 Memory ($52.99 @ Newegg) Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($154.85 @ Amazon) Video Card: Gigabyte GeForce GTX 1070 8GB G1 Gaming Video Card Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA G2 550W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($70.98 @ Newegg) Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit ($84.99 @ NCIX US) The card is a placeholder, since we won't be overclocking I'm just going to grab him whichever entry level 1070 comes in stock first. My main question is: what case and mobo do I put him in. I was thinking mATX or mITX, since it's a simple build and portability is nice. But the builder-to-be is a grumpy manbaby and he doesn't move his current computer often, so I don't think a smaller form factor is worth frustration or sacrifice (if any is necessary). Any suggestions? Unsinkabear fucked around with this message at 20:19 on Jul 4, 2016 |
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Jul 4, 2016 16:32
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Anything I should be wary about with Cooler Master PSU's? Right now newegg is having a sale on the G550M ( http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=17-171-098&cm_sp=July4thSale-_-0701-0704-_-17-171-098-_-NA ) putting it at about the same price as the EVGA 500W I was looking at, but this has the benefit of being modular and a slightly higher wattage.
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Jul 4, 2016 19:25
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Ok goons. Quick question here. I have the Corsair h80i v2 in my case. The radiator is sandwiched between 2 fans. I noticed the fans have 2 arrows on the side. The arrows point horizontally and vertically. I assumed the arrows were pointing which way was up and which direction the air was flowing. Am I correct with this? Second, I have the fan attached to the rear of the case with the horizontal arrows pointing INTO the case and the fan inside the case pointing the San direction. Is this correct? Should they both point towards the radiator? The instructions suck. All it says is "For best cooling performance we recommend mounting the fan as an air intake to your pc case. "
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Jul 4, 2016 19:53
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The horizontal arrow definitely indicates direction of air flow - you want them both pointed in the same direction. I think the vertical arrow indicates fan blade rotation, which isn't particularly important. As to whether they should point in or out, it depends on what's going on with the rest of the case. In theory, cooling performance is better as an intake because air from outside is cooler than inside, but it's more important to ensure good airflow through the entire case. You want a balance of intakes and exhausts in a consistent direction - typically, intakes front and bottom, exhausts rear and top.
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Jul 4, 2016 20:40
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AVeryLargeRadish posted:Here, I reduced costs where I could while keeping the quality up, it's also smaller: This was a while back, but thanks for your input. Why the change to ITX? Just for the onboard wifi? Is ITX viable now for higher end builds if I want to go more powerful later on? I've always been intrigued by small form factor PCs but I've avoided them because it seems like a pain in the rear end to build in, and constrains your upgrade options.
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Jul 4, 2016 21:20
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Julie And Candy posted:This was a while back, but thanks for your input. Why the change to ITX? Just for the onboard wifi? Is ITX viable now for higher end builds if I want to go more powerful later on? I've always been intrigued by small form factor PCs but I've avoided them because it seems like a pain in the rear end to build in, and constrains your upgrade options. ITX's biggest drawback for me is that it only has 2 ram slots. Realistically, this isn't an issue, since you can support 32gb of ram in two slots. It won't do well for SLI either. That board also isn't suitable for overclocking, but you don't have a 6500k, so that's not relevant either. If those things are an issue for you in terms of improving your build later on down the road, then don't go ITX - otherwise, I don't see a drawback. I would personally have gone ITX if it weren't for those issues myself.
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Jul 4, 2016 22:10
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Is there any truth to complaints I've read about closed-loop liquid coolers drying out after three years? I can find run times for the fans and pumps but not coolant lifetimes. Honestly it sounds just as likely as big air damaging my board when I have a 14-series Noctua on my 2600K-era board that has survived three moves.
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Jul 4, 2016 22:17
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My corsair H50 has been running at 100%, cooling an OC'd 2600k for five years straight, almost 24/7. Still works well. Anecdotal, but still a data point
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Jul 4, 2016 22:41
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Zero The Hero posted:Anyone have any opinions on this external hard drive? The reason it's super cheap is because It's a Seagate Archive 8TB using special black magic to store more bits into the same metal. This trick has one weakness, however: overwriting bits is super slow. The practical result is that, if you're just going to backup stuff on it and keep it forever (say, a movie collection), it's a fantastic choice. But if you want to use it as a backup drive in the sense that you will be constantly overwriting older backup files with new ones, you're going to suffer terrible transfer rates. In that case, an alternative I can recommend are Toshiba's Canvio drives - up to 6TB, good speed, cheap, good brand (they're Hitachi made); their only flaw is that the enclosure can get sort of hot, which I didn't care about because I'm using them as internal drives.
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Jul 4, 2016 22:54
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