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CornHolio posted:So to be clear, the answer to my question of "if my truck doesn't start unless it's bump-started, it's the starter, right?" is no, it could be any number of things, including but not limited to the starter. Pretty much. Could be grounds (starter or battery), solenoid/relay, starter, flywheel, voodoo...
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Jul 5, 2016 23:34
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Geirskogul posted:$5 O'Reilly oil change kit pan spotted. I don't know whats worse, that you noticed it or that I didn't despite working there.  Also, at least you seperate it kastien, plenty have tried giving it to us full of antifreeze or water necessitating us taking a good whiff. Any contamination means the disposal company can refuse to pick it up if they want to be shitheads.
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Jul 5, 2016 23:58
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(Crossposted to Mazda247, but I couldn't title it GODDAMN MOTHERFUCKING PROTEGE LOW IDLE BULLSHIT AGAIN there. 1997 Mazda Protege
YouTube Video of my car doing the Bad Thing. (It's a grand total of 20 seconds long) Basically, it's idling along, then you can hear a relay click, the fan comes on (or switches to a higher speed) and suddenly it gets the bright idea that it's a container ship and that 50-70 RPM is a great idea. After a few seconds of shaking and herky-jerking, it realizes something's not right, and slowly comes up again (though I don't hear the relay reset). In the last few years, I've:
Thanks!
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Jul 6, 2016 01:57
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Check your spark plug gaps and fuel pressure
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Jul 6, 2016 02:02
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Christobevii3 posted:Check your spark plug gaps and fuel pressure Plugs were checked for cleanliness today. They looked eh. Not perfect, but certainly serviceable. As for fuel pressure, I'll figure out how to do that.
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Jul 6, 2016 02:08
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ctishman posted:Plugs were checked for cleanliness today. They looked eh. Not perfect, but certainly serviceable. As for fuel pressure, I'll figure out how to do that. Did you check the gap?
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Jul 6, 2016 02:24
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Godholio posted:Did you check the gap? I did not. It was actually done in a shop, because I had no place to drain the radiator and change the thermostat. I've just placed an order for a spark plug gap tool, and I'll check it this coming weekend. UPDATE: Oh my god, I'm so smart I kill myself sometimes. They turned on the AC at the shop for some reason, and the extra load was more than my poor little guy could handle. I never use it, so I didn't recognize the symptoms. On the upside, I'm still gonna gap my plugs next weekend, so that's something. ctishman fucked around with this message at 03:04 on Jul 6, 2016 |
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Jul 6, 2016 02:39
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Reading more online, the plastic hose from the air filter goes to the MAF and gets cracks between the MAF and the intake manifold. It is running lean because MAF isn't sensing all the air. Might try some smoke around that area to see if it is getting sucked in.
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Jul 6, 2016 03:05
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Christobevii3 posted:Reading more online, the plastic hose from the air filter goes to the MAF and gets cracks between the MAF and the intake manifold. It is running lean because MAF isn't sensing all the air. Might try some smoke around that area to see if it is getting sucked in. Oooh, good idea! I'll check it out!
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Jul 6, 2016 03:47
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Christobevii3 posted:Reading more online, the plastic hose from the air filter goes to the MAF and gets cracks between the MAF and the intake manifold. It is running lean because MAF isn't sensing all the air. Might try some smoke around that area to see if it is getting sucked in. THIS. This is so common on Proteges that I check all of them for it when they come in for oil changes. The part is only like $45 and takes seconds to install.
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Jul 6, 2016 14:11
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CornHolio posted:So to be clear, the answer to my question of "if my truck doesn't start unless it's bump-started, it's the starter, right?" is no, it could be any number of things, including but not limited to the starter. I also like to run continuity checks, say from the battery lug to the positive post of the alternator, or ground post to the alternator case. With the cable completely in between you can start to isolate any issues, and they take very little time. If it doesn't come up with low resistance then you can slide closer together, move from the post to the clamp on the battery, or from the alternator down to the positive terminal of the starter.
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Jul 6, 2016 16:01
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Starter wiring is so high current that even a continuity test can be misleading, so I like to have someone else crank the engine (or try to) while using the meter on *volts* setting with the negative probe on the starter input lug and the positive probe on the battery stud (not the lug, the stud. GM side-bolt batteries loving suck to test this way.) If you are having issues you will probably see several volts when this is done. Also test the starter housing to battery negative stud the same way.
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Jul 6, 2016 16:10
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Sorry, it just seems really strange that bump-starting always seems to start it. If it was anything other than the starter itself, like battery cables or the starter hot wire, in my mind anyway, bump-starting it wouldn't work at least some of the time because it would be independent of the engine rotating. I'm just trying to understand why it could still be something else, logically speaking.
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Jul 6, 2016 16:57
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CornHolio posted:Sorry, it just seems really strange that bump-starting always seems to start it. If it was anything other than the starter itself, like battery cables or the starter hot wire, in my mind anyway, bump-starting it wouldn't work at least some of the time because it would be independent of the engine rotating. Your battery can be marginal enough that it can't turn the starter, but provide enough current to get the alternator working, which will power up the electronics and fuel pump, etc., enough to start the engine, which then relies on the alternator for electrical power. Starting only requires that you have the computer running (key in the ON position of course) and some way to spin the engine fast enough to get a few good compression cycles.
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Jul 6, 2016 17:05
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My girlfriend's 2003 Mazda 6 experiences unintended acceleration after she turns on the AC, especially on the freeway. The dealer she took it to was unable to diagnose, though she seems to have found something online referencing the idle air control valve (may be wrong term). Anyone encountered this or know how to begin diagnosing it?
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Jul 6, 2016 17:06
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EightBit posted:Your battery can be marginal enough that it can't turn the starter, but provide enough current to get the alternator working, which will power up the electronics and fuel pump, etc., enough to start the engine, which then relies on the alternator for electrical power. Starting only requires that you have the computer running (key in the ON position of course) and some way to spin the engine fast enough to get a few good compression cycles. Pretty much this. From experience, you can have a crappy aftermarket lug (or a loose lug, or a corroded battery post with a tight or loose lug, etc) on your battery cables and it'll carry the 20 amps or so needed to run all the electrical systems, but falls flat on its face when asked to handle several hundred for your average starter motor. Since it is intermittent it is most likely a bad connection in the cables, a bad contactor, or a bad brush pack. But it could still be a bad starter relay, a bad wire from the starter relay to the contactor, etc, those have the same intermittent behavior possibilities. *usually* but not always, once the starter leads are corroded bad enough to not start, they don't come back from that. Broomstick the starter, if that doesn't fix it, work backwards till you find the cause. Wiring diagrams will help.
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Jul 6, 2016 17:21
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Nevvy Z posted:My girlfriend's 2003 Mazda 6 experiences unintended acceleration after she turns on the AC, especially on the freeway. The dealer she took it to was unable to diagnose, though she seems to have found something online referencing the idle air control valve (may be wrong term). Anyone encountered this or know how to begin diagnosing it? A bad IAC can cause weird throttle issues. They're usually cheap (<$20) and pretty easy to replace. It's probably on the intake manifold, which is high on the engine so usually easy to get to unless Mazda crammed a bunch of other stuff in around it.
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Jul 6, 2016 17:26
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That does make sense, since the ECU uses the IACV to keep the engine from stalling at idle when the AC kicks in. I would try cleaning it first. Look up a video on youtube of how to clean the IACV pintle on that particular make/model/year/engine, it usually involves an aerosol can of throttle body cleaner, some qtips, a few screwdrivers or wrenches, and a wad of paper towels.
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Jul 6, 2016 17:42
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Nevvy Z posted:My girlfriend's 2003 Mazda 6 experiences unintended acceleration after she turns on the AC, especially on the freeway. The dealer she took it to was unable to diagnose, though she seems to have found something online referencing the idle air control valve (may be wrong term). Anyone encountered this or know how to begin diagnosing it? I can see where the theory that the IACV is causing the acceleration is coming from, but it should remain closed when the throttle body is open and the computer should only attempt to open the valve if it sees the idle dip below whatever the idle speed is set to. Does the car accelerate and continue to do so (eventually hitting the speed limiter) after the A/C is turned on, or does it just increase speed by a few MPH and she just needs to adjust the cruise control or back off the pedal a bit to compensate? Geoj fucked around with this message at 18:04 on Jul 6, 2016 |
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Jul 6, 2016 17:59
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kastein posted:
A bonus is that my truck is so dead-nuts simple that the wiring is really simple to follow. Thanks for the help guys, I appreciate it.
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Jul 6, 2016 18:23
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This past Saturday, I was near Hancock MD at the I-70/68 interchange when I passed a small CUV looking car in dazzle camo and tan canvas over the rear bumper and front bumper and hood. No visible badges, of course. Any rumors of a car being tested in Maryland? It was neat to see and I can barely describe what I saw because that camo works in person.
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Jul 6, 2016 19:34
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EightBit posted:Your battery can be marginal enough that it can't turn the starter, but provide enough current to get the alternator working, which will power up the electronics and fuel pump, etc., enough to start the engine, which then relies on the alternator for electrical power. Starting only requires that you have the computer running (key in the ON position of course) and some way to spin the engine fast enough to get a few good compression cycles. also the starter itself might not be well grounded to the transmission, but the battery ground could be fine so the rest of the electricals don't have a problem.
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Jul 7, 2016 00:47
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Nevvy Z posted:My girlfriend's 2003 Mazda 6 experiences unintended acceleration after she turns on the AC, especially on the freeway. The dealer she took it to was unable to diagnose, though she seems to have found something online referencing the idle air control valve (may be wrong term). Anyone encountered this or know how to begin diagnosing it? Update her life insurance policy. Check for vacuum leaks.
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Jul 7, 2016 02:10
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2004 Ford Escape. This is my daughter's car, and she lives out of town, so I have no first-hand experience with this problem. It's done this thing a couple times where it shows symptoms of running out of gas with the gas gauge showing half a tank. She puts more gas in and it seems to be okay. So my first thought was faulty gas gauge. But then she tells me that she can fill it up with nine gallons although it has an eighteen-gallon tank, so apparently the gas gauge was correct and it didn't really run out of gas. So I'm telling her, of course, to get someone to look at it asap, which she knows anyway. But in the meantime, I'm still wondering. Some kind of fuel pump problem, maybe? Does that sound likely?
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Jul 7, 2016 05:07
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That definitely sounds like a hands-on diagnosis. The first thing that springs to mind is maybe the fuel pickup filter is coated on the bottom due to gunk getting more concentrated as the fuel drains out? So the top is clean, but once the fuel drops below the point where the filter is clogged fuel can't get through and the pump chokes? I can't think of any other situation where the fuel level would have an acute effect on the fuel system's performance. Hard to say without looking at it though, I don't even know if the Escape has the filter sock I'm thinking of.
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Jul 7, 2016 06:01
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A normal filter can get clogged enough to stall an engine. It took about 45,000 miles to do in my 02 Focus. 
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Jul 7, 2016 08:13
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Godholio posted:A normal filter can get clogged enough to stall an engine. It took about 45,000 miles to do in my 02 Focus. Yeah but that doesn't clear up and run again when you fill the tank.
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Jul 7, 2016 08:30
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Might it be that filling the tank is a red herring, and the problem resolves itself in the time it takes to fill the tank?
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Jul 7, 2016 15:11
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Enourmo posted:Yeah but that doesn't clear up and run again when you fill the tank. Not specifically, but it can clear enough to run when the engine's off. Then it'll starve again at some point in the near future.
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Jul 7, 2016 15:36
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Thanks for the replies. I have to apologize for being a bit in accurate on my first post. This is due to my daughter not being sure what details might be important and my not being sure what questions to ask. But a little more digging for further details turns this up: The way she describes it, it actually sounds to me less like running out of gas and more like the kind of symptoms you see when you get some watered-down gas, with the car sputtering and acting sluggish and whatnot. I would rule this out as the actual cause, though, because when that happens you expect to see problems start fairly quickly after you drive away from the gas station. Just saying the symptoms, when they occur, sound sort of similar, the way she describes it. Regarding the red herring, I can say this. The first time it happened, she was able to nurse it along and get to a nearby gas station and had it resolved within a few minutes. This time (yesterday, maybe a month or so after the first episode), there was no gas station close enough to do that. She had to leave it sitting there (in a safe, off-the-road location) for the duration of an eight-hour work shift before she had a chance to deal with it. Then a friend gave her a ride, and they were able to get some gas to it. So there's that. Keeping in mind that it's fully understood that you'd have to look at it to be certain, is it possible that it's a filter thing?
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Jul 7, 2016 16:41
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Could be. Who knows, I'd have to put a fuel pressure gauge on the injector rail test fitting and watch it do its thing to be sure.
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Jul 7, 2016 19:25
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Secret Agent X23 posted:I have to apologize for being a bit in accurate on my first post. This is due to my daughter not being sure what details might be important and my not being sure what questions to ask. But a little more digging for further details turns this up: The way she describes it, it actually sounds to me less like running out of gas and more like the kind of symptoms you see when you get some watered-down gas, with the car sputtering and acting sluggish and whatnot. I would rule this out as the actual cause, though, because when that happens you expect to see problems start fairly quickly after you drive away from the gas station. Just saying the symptoms, when they occur, sound sort of similar, the way she describes it. Easy to rule out water/gas. Water and gasoline don't actually mix very well. Remember back in grade school when a teacher shows what happens when you mix oil and water? Same thing. The water drops to the bottom, gasoline floats to the top. It'll take a few minutes if somehow you did get a water/gas mix at the gas station. The fuel pump's intake is at the bottom of the tank, so it would start pumping the fuel system full of water pretty quickly. Gas station tanks are the same way - the pumps draw from the bottom of the tanks. So if any water is in there, it'll be sent to the pumps by itself. kastein posted:I'd have to put a fuel pressure gauge on the injector rail test fitting and watch it do its thing to be sure. Also this. This is going to be the only proper way to figure out what's going on.
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Jul 7, 2016 21:05
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Thanks for the comments. The reason I wanted to ask here was to see if I could get some idea of what the most likely thing to expect might be, if possible. And then maybe to get some context to evaluate whatever the repair person might end up telling my daughter.
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Jul 7, 2016 21:32
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You could realistically expect to pay a competent mechanic an hour's labour to get in the ballpark of what's wrong, unless it's something really unusual and unlikely. After that it boils down to two things: 1. How cunty is the car to work on (ford escape cuntyness rating: 6/10) 2. How expensive are the parts
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Jul 7, 2016 22:18
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Secret Agent X23 posted:Thanks for the replies. The next time it does this have her remove the gas cap and then put it back on. This sounds like it could be a bad/blocked cap vent.
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Jul 7, 2016 22:42
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Slavvy posted:You could realistically expect to pay a competent mechanic an hour's labour to get in the ballpark of what's wrong, unless it's something really unusual and unlikely. After that it boils down to two things: Well, that's fair enough, as far as expectations go at this point.
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Jul 7, 2016 22:51
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I have a UK Ford Fiesta 2010 (which I think makes it a sixth generation, although according to wiki in the UK gen 6 is known as Mark VII, just to be confusing) with a 1.4 engine. I recently got a dent in the front passenger wheel so I need to get a new one. First question: I have alloy wheels currently, but these are expensive, is it okay to run a car with three alloys and one steel? Second question: this website: https://www.tyreleader.co.uk/alloy-car-wheels/ford/fiesta/ and others claim that my car doesn't have 16 inch wheels, but my current tyres say 195/45R16 on them. I'm pretty sure they are the original Ford wheels, what is going on?
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Jul 7, 2016 23:33
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Is there any place that sells generic window molding that isn't blinged out? I found the actual Toyota part number (for my 94 Camry), but I was hoping for something cheaper.
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Jul 7, 2016 23:48
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03 Mazdaspeed Protege. About a month ago I replaced the alternator because the battery kept dying. It was better but still marginal, but more importantly, ever since I disconnected the battery for that job, it's been bucking real bad under boost at about 4-5k rpm. Clears up a little at the top of that range but I'm afraid to redline it (can't tell if it's knocking, loving ricer exhaust). I was operating under the assumption that it was my ground strap loving with the spark plugs, since I was losing about half a volt across it at idle. I replaced the ground strap today, though (well, added the new beefy one in parallel due to ring terminal sizing reasons); voltage drop is eliminated, battery voltage is higher at all RPMs, but the bucking still happens unabated. The fact it starts to clear up at higher revs makes me think it's not a dying fuel pump, and the fact it started out of the blue after dis-/reconnecting the battery is throwing me for a loop. I thought it was heat related for a while, but I've gotten it at night when the air's cooler so that's not the whole answer. I am still losing about .2V across the alternator positive cable so that's probably next to be replaced, but I don't see how that would cause my issue. Any ideas?
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Jul 8, 2016 01:31
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Motronic posted:The next time it does this have her remove the gas cap and then put it back on. This sounds like it could be a bad/blocked cap vent. This was one of my thoughts with closed systems if there's too much suction the pump can't draw any more fuel, opening the gas cap is relieving that suction. Mazda guy, any CEL on? Get the code read if there is, your .2 and .5v aren't the problem here, I'd check maybe your maf to see if it's in spec, and also check for leaks post maf on your intake stuff, possibly at your throttle body or tb gasket. I've seen vehicles with too much unmetered air buck and run like rear end at higher rpm. (I had a friend who would clean his tb like once every 3 months, once he put 1/2 of a gasket back and it ran like poo poo, 10 min and a new gasket later and it was run in fine) tater_salad fucked around with this message at 03:45 on Jul 8, 2016 |
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Jul 8, 2016 03:39
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