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Motronic posted:The next time it does this have her remove the gas cap and then put it back on. This sounds like it could be a bad/blocked cap vent. Ah, this reply slipped by me at first, but yes, absolutely try something that's that easy. It also doesn't escape my notice that removing the cap and putting it back on is exactly what she does when she puts gas in it, after which it runs okay. Thanks! Secret Agent X23 fucked around with this message at 03:53 on Jul 8, 2016 |
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Jul 8, 2016 03:42
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Out of curiosity more than anything else; when a car makes a gurgling/bubbling sound, what causes that? I've heard it several times, but most recently driving with a co-worker to a branch office yesterday. It kinda sounds like if you blow bubbles with a straw into your soft drink paper cup, only the paper cup is a tin bucket.
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Jul 8, 2016 07:19
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bolind posted:Out of curiosity more than anything else; when a car makes a gurgling/bubbling sound, what causes that? I've heard it several times, but most recently driving with a co-worker to a branch office yesterday. It kinda sounds like if you blow bubbles with a straw into your soft drink paper cup, only the paper cup is a tin bucket. If it's not exhaust noise, it could also be the cooling system - air bubbles in the cooling system will definitely do that. Fuel system, too, maybe?
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Jul 8, 2016 07:56
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tater_salad posted:Mazda guy, any CEL on? Get the code read if there is, your .2 and .5v aren't the problem here, I'd check maybe your maf to see if it's in spec, and also check for leaks post maf on your intake stuff, possibly at your throttle body or tb gasket. I've seen vehicles with too much unmetered air buck and run like rear end at higher rpm. (I had a friend who would clean his tb like once every 3 months, once he put 1/2 of a gasket back and it ran like poo poo, 10 min and a new gasket later and it was run in fine) No check engine light, and it doesn't flash while the bucking is happening so it's not like a hard misfire. A boost leak did occur to me, it's just really odd that it was fine until I had the battery cable off.
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Jul 8, 2016 13:46
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Maybe while loving with the battery you knocked something lose.
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Jul 8, 2016 14:21
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Secret Agent X23 posted:Ah, this reply slipped by me at first, but yes, absolutely try something that's that easy. It also doesn't escape my notice that removing the cap and putting it back on is exactly what she does when she puts gas in it, after which it runs okay. Thanks! Now you're picking up what I'm putting down. The fact that's it's happening at about the same tank level and she's presumably filling the car each time this has happened make it sound very possible. This could be a $15 problem.
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Jul 8, 2016 16:37
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I have a 2011 Subaru Forester with about 75000 miles on it. I have been pretty diligent on the maintenance but last time I had the oil changed, they gave me a host of other things that need to be done. I know some of it absolutely needs to be done, but I was wondering if someone could help prioritize what should be done first, as I want to try and spread it out over a couple months to help with the bills. The estimate is in the parenthesis, and if that seems outrageous please let me know! Brake fluid exchange ($110) Transmission Fluid flush ($230) Power steering fluid exchange ($110) Front differential service drain and fill ($120) Rear differential service ($150) If someone could give some guidance and priorities, I would greatly appreciate it!
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Jul 8, 2016 18:14
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I'm curious what the difference is between the front and rear diff work. And how the hell they charge that much for a 10 minute job.
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Jul 8, 2016 18:21
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You can probably have the rear diff done at any quicklube for a third to a half of that, and they won't be able to gently caress it up, it's just a diff and the fill and drain plugs are obvious. Front diff is built into the transmission and I'd worry about a quicklube using the right fluid and draining/filling the right fill/drain plugs. That and the transmission are something I'd have done at either a dealer or a skilled trusted mechanics, not a quicklube. Brake fluid exchange, power steering fluid exchange, and trans fluid exchange are all things that should be done but most people don't do until the system fails, which costs a lot more. You may be able to get them done cheaper at another shop.
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Jul 8, 2016 18:32
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bikesonyx posted:I'm sitting in my dead car. The starter won't turn on, so I went under the car (with the key in "run" mode ) and tried to jump the starter. The starter worked but the engine didn't crank. Also I think I heard the gear hit the flywheel. Should I try again or is this just not going to work. So after getting stuck at work again. I came back during the day and the security light didn't turn on. So I thought well its obviously a problem with power not getting to the computer for the VATS system. I got forced into having to look at it today and when I pull the dash pannel off.. The previous owner already had cut the wires and installed a house resistor of the wrong wattage that after I tested found was .0015 from the lowest resistance the computer would accept. This is what came out. 
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Jul 8, 2016 18:35
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Wattage is essentially irrelevant when it comes to a resistor being used for a purpose like this, and is that 0.0015 ohms or 0.0015 kilohms or 0.0015 megohms or what?
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Jul 8, 2016 18:37
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bikesonyx posted:So after getting stuck at work again. I came back during the day and the security light didn't turn on. So I thought well its obviously a problem with power not getting to the computer for the VATS system. I got forced into having to look at it today and when I pull the dash pannel off.. The previous owner already had cut the wires and installed a house resistor of the wrong wattage that after I tested found was .0015 from the lowest resistance the computer would accept. This is what came out. This is the stupid question thread so I might as well ask, what is a house resistor and what is it's purpose?
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Jul 8, 2016 18:52
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spankmeister posted:This is the stupid question thread so I might as well ask, what is a house resistor and what is it's purpose? Its just a general term I'm using, that resistor was made for a TV or a Radio kastein posted:Wattage is essentially irrelevant when it comes to a resistor being used for a purpose like this, and is that 0.0015 ohms or 0.0015 kilohms or 0.0015 megohms or what? I don't know! I'm sorry. bikesonyx fucked around with this message at 19:20 on Jul 8, 2016 |
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Jul 8, 2016 19:17
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Motronic posted:Now you're picking up what I'm putting down. The fact that's it's happening at about the same tank level and she's presumably filling the car each time this has happened make it sound very possible. I've passed this along to her, and we'll hope for the best!
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Jul 8, 2016 19:26
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Why do car batteries come in so many sizes? It seems like all the thing needs to do is output ~12v, supply enough current to power the starter, and have enough charge to run the electronics without the engine for a short time. I had to swap my battery out today, and there were dozens of sizes!
Dominoes fucked around with this message at 19:40 on Jul 8, 2016 |
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Jul 8, 2016 19:27
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kastein posted:You can probably have the rear diff done at any quicklube for a third to a half of that, and they won't be able to gently caress it up, it's just a diff and the fill and drain plugs are obvious. Thanks, I will probably have the front and transmission done at the dealership and the rest at mechanic.
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Jul 8, 2016 19:29
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bikesonyx posted:Its just a general term I'm using, that resistor was made for a TV or a Radio But, if you don't know what the range is, how do you know it's off? How do you even know what the reference is? Also a resistor is a resistor. They aren't made differently for "a radio." And the key resistor would probably be an SMD one so wattage should be irrelevant.
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Jul 8, 2016 19:50
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Dominoes posted:Why do car batteries come in so many sizes? It seems like all the thing needs to do is output ~12v, supply enough current to power the starter, and have enough charge to run the electronics without the engine for a short time. I had to swap my battery out today, and there were dozens of sizes! The big factors in battery size are engine displacement and compression ratio. As engine size increases there is more mass to turn, and as compression ratios increase the starter has to do more work, which in turn means the battery must be able to supply more cranking amps and therefore will be larger. In addition if a vehicle has a lot of electrical subsystems to support you may need a larger battery (as the battery acts as a buffer even when the engine is running), and finally there are space considerations to take into account that will vary from one vehicle to the next even if all other requirements are identical.
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Jul 8, 2016 19:53
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Dominoes posted:Why do car batteries come in so many sizes? It seems like all the thing needs to do is output ~12v, supply enough current to power the starter, and have enough charge to run the electronics without the engine for a short time. I had to swap my battery out today, and there were dozens of sizes! Smaller engines tend to require less cranking current, different bodies have different packaging concerns, side posts, top posts, both, etc. You should be asking why there are so few sizes, honestly.
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Jul 8, 2016 19:55
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Dominoes posted:Why do car batteries come in so many sizes? It seems like all the thing needs to do is output ~12v, supply enough current to power the starter, and have enough charge to run the electronics without the engine for a short time. I had to swap my battery out today, and there were dozens of sizes! Because the manufacturer can save $5 by fitting a smaller battery to some models, and $5 per car matters when you're building a million of them. And as to why there aren't a couple of standard sizes, this is why: 
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Jul 8, 2016 19:56
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bikesonyx posted:Its just a general term I'm using, that resistor was made for a TV or a Radio That's actually just an old carbon composition resistor. TVs/radios use the same kind of resistor everyone else does for their production era, carbon composition resistors were last commonly used in the early 80s or late 70s. Since then it's mostly been carbon film resistors, whether SMT or through hole. As for the other part, that's important - if it's 0.0015 ohms off from expected, I'm surprised you could even measure it that accurately and it should be no problem. 0.0015 kilohms off, maybe a problem but probably not. 0.0015 megohms off, it is probably why the car won't start. All bets are off if you used the wrong terminal sockets on the meter for the mode you were measuring with or the wrong measurement mode entirely.
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Jul 8, 2016 20:33
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Geirskogul posted:But, if you don't know what the range is, how do you know it's off? How do you even know what the reference is? I really don't understand that no one gets that my car not working with a 1/2-1Watt resistor installed to fool the security system looking for a specific 1/4Watt resistance that was only passing by .0015ohms would be a problem for a computer to read under a heavy load staring situation.
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Jul 8, 2016 20:33
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Because resistors don't deal in watts, they deal in ohms (and variations thereof). 1/4 vs 1/2 watt are almost always swappable. I only say "almost" because while I've never EVER seen a situation where it mattered, there are probably places where it does. Your car is probably not one of them. The wattage is how much energy can be dissipated. Going big is fine, going small can cause overheating. So if your system called for a 1/4 watt X ohm resistor, using a 1/2W or 1W X ohm resistor shouldn't be a problem. But the "X" is what matters. What's the resistance rating (OHMS) that's supposed to be there? Godholio fucked around with this message at 20:38 on Jul 8, 2016 |
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Jul 8, 2016 20:35
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Godholio posted:Because resistors don't deal in watts, they deal in ohms (and variations thereof). 1/4 vs 1/2 watt are almost always swappable. I only say "almost" because while I've never EVER seen a situation where it mattered, there are probably places where it does. Your car is probably not one of them. You're just trying to steal my car. Yo, I could put switches in there and make my car like the war rig with a pattern of switches to make the right resistance! 
bikesonyx fucked around with this message at 20:47 on Jul 8, 2016 |
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Jul 8, 2016 20:38
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bikesonyx posted:I really don't understand that no one gets that my car not working with a 1/2-1Watt resistor installed to fool the security system looking for a specific 1/4Watt resistance that was only passing by .0015ohms would be a problem for a computer to read under a heavy load staring situation. *deep breath* Alright. Speaking as an electrical engineer/embedded systems design engineer who works in the automotive and aerospace industry here. The wattage for this particular purpose is absolutely unimportant. It's just applying a small sense voltage to it (which is regulated, and far below the voltage the rest of the system works at, 12V, so whether it's cranking or not is completely irrelevant) and figuring out if it's the right resistance. You could probably use a 1/16 watt surface mount resistor like Geirskogul said and it'd be perfectly freaking fine. The resistance, in ohms, is the important part. Furthermore, there are 15 different spec values, from 402 ohms to 11800 ohms. You need to know which one you are aiming for. Also, the mere fact that you gave an inaccuracy of 0.0015 tells me you don't know what you're doing here, because that's so far from all of those values that it's absolutely irrelevant and you don't know if it's ohms, kilohms, or megohms. Those are important pieces of information. Also, substituting a 1-2 watt resistor in place of a 1/4 watt is fine, even if your car WAS being picky about the wattage of the resistor, which it is not - using a resistor with a higher power spec than required is always fine, just like substituting a diode with a higher PIV or If rating is fine and substituting a capacitor with a higher voltage rating is fine. Please make sure you have your meter probes inserted in the right holes in the meter, put the meter on the proper ohm scale (0-2000 ohms most likely for any VATS under 2000 ohms, 0-20000 ohms for any from 2k ohms to 20k ohms) and measure again, post the value you read. Godholio is correct, as well. e: the numbers from http://www.vatskey.com/ looked very familiar so I checked the 1% standard resistor values decade table at http://www.brannonelectronics.com/images/STANDARD%20VALUE.pdf and yes, they are just 1% tolerance standard resistors. So I could buy about 1 dollar worth of resistors on digikey and simply try them all till one of them started it, this would work for any VATS protected GM vehicle. kastein fucked around with this message at 20:52 on Jul 8, 2016 |
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Jul 8, 2016 20:45
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kastein posted:*deep breath* I'm sorry, so are you fixing my problem now? Because it's already fixed..
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Jul 8, 2016 20:54
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No, I'm just telling you that you're giving us BS answers to numbers that don't matter and arguing with people who know more about electronics than you. If it's working, it's working.
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Jul 8, 2016 21:00
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I don't care watt you say, the resistor had the wrong what.
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Jul 8, 2016 21:10
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 : Help I'm in this hole and I don't know how to get out! : How deep is the hole?: It's brown!: No man how DEEP is it?: Hey this dude came by and lifted me out everythings cool!: Okay well if you're ever in the situation again first you figure out how deep the hole is, then you..: I SAID EVERYTHING'S COOL
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Jul 8, 2016 21:16
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Something else I just realized... since they're 1% tolerance standard resistor values, even if it was the 402 ohm one you needed (worstcase) the acceptable tolerance would be 1% of that, or 4.02 ohms. If your reading was in ohms, 0.0015 ohms off is so far within tolerance that it's not even funny, 0.0015 kilohms (1.5 ohms) is also only 1/4 of the acceptable tolerance range, and 0.0015 megohms (1.5 kilohms) is "you have the wrong loving key" not a tolerance issue. Unless you were using the meter wrong, which I suspect. And that's all assuming that the VATS unit will only accept +/- 1% from standard values - which is probably wrong, since doing that when using 1% resistors is asking for a fencepost error, any competent engineer will instead accept anything within 1.5-3% or maybe even more depending on how bad the EMI is expected to be. This kind of signaling is very commonly used in cars, especially for steering wheel cruise control/radio control buttons, since you can put a different resistor in series with each button, tie them all in parallel to two wires in the clockspring, and have your ECU still be able to tell all the buttons apart without your clockspring ribbon cable being like two inches wide.
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Jul 8, 2016 21:17
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Thanks dudes, re battery standards.
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Jul 8, 2016 21:20
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resistor gay, so watt
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Jul 8, 2016 21:20
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Godholio posted:resistor gay, so watt are gay resistors measured in siemens?
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Jul 8, 2016 21:24
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kastein posted:
Ah poo poo, I never thought about it before (never owning cars new enough to have steering wheel buttons) and that makes perfect sense. It's exactly the same as a lot of security systems, then. You put different resistors (of a number of specified values that are spaced pretty far apart) into a receptacle of the sensor, then program the panel to know which is which. So you can have one common run to a room (power, return loop) with three different sensors, like an IR motion detector, window switch, and door switch. Panel knows which one went off due to the different value in each.
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Jul 8, 2016 21:26
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Geoj posted:I can see where the theory that the IACV is causing the acceleration is coming from, but it should remain closed when the throttle body is open and the computer should only attempt to open the valve if it sees the idle dip below whatever the idle speed is set to. The former. She noticed it coming off the freeway. She didn't have cruise control on but says it was jerky rpm jumps between 1k and 3k rpms and was hard to brake. It hasn't happened since and she hasn't been using her AC. She turned her car off and back on at a light and it stopped.
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Jul 9, 2016 23:32
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kastein posted:are gay resistors measured in siemens? Needs more love
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Jul 10, 2016 03:20
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tater_salad posted:Needs mho love
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Jul 10, 2016 04:44
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Since all this resistor chat is going on ... Is there an easy way I could figure out what resistor(s) to put in place of my passenger airbag to make the light go out? The vehicle is a 2000 Jeep Cherokee and the airbag isn't getting replaced.
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Jul 10, 2016 05:03
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They're $25-100 on ebay. Why not replace it?
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Jul 10, 2016 05:21
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Christobevii3 posted:They're $25-100 on ebay. Why not replace it? His is probably fine and intact, but he's probably removing it so he doesn't have to worry about it going off if he whacks a rock because it's a Jeep. I think TJs have a way to switch them off, but I guess XJs don't.
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Jul 10, 2016 05:45
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