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A friend had a flyer cave in from the inside doing that, so - approach with caution.
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Jul 10, 2016 01:51
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My gut reaction is that the resin will melt before you get the CA hot enough to break down or for the CA to do you any harm. Freezing it's a better way to go if you want to separate the parts.
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Jul 10, 2016 02:07
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Takkaryx posted:My gut reaction is that the resin will melt before you get the CA hot enough to break down or for the CA to do you any harm. Freezing it's a better way to go if you want to separate the parts. Yeah, from the limited stuff I can find, it sounds like the worst that will happen is the CA will soften as well, since it's just an acrylic in the end. As long as I can keep the piece from snapping in two when I bend it, I can fix up any other problems afterwards. I'll probably use my respirator while working on it just in case though.
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Jul 10, 2016 02:40
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Avenging Dentist posted:Yeah, from the limited stuff I can find, it sounds like the worst that will happen is the CA will soften as well, since it's just an acrylic in the end. As long as I can keep the piece from snapping in two when I bend it, I can fix up any other problems afterwards. I'll probably use my respirator while working on it just in case though. Is CA the stuff that you can get assist by cooling it. Stick it in the freezer and make it really brittle
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Jul 10, 2016 02:42
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w00tmonger posted:Is CA the stuff that you can get assist by cooling it. Stick it in the freezer and make it really brittle I don't want to make it brittle; I just want to bend a resin piece into shape. However, my previous attempt caused a hairline fracture in the part that I superglued shut, and I would ideally like that glue to remain strong so I don't snap the piece completely in two while bending it. If I don't post my results by the end of Wednesday (when my heat gun arrives in the mail), assume I died. Avenging Dentist fucked around with this message at 02:53 on Jul 10, 2016 |
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Jul 10, 2016 02:46
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Ah yeah, then you should be fine getting the resin hot enough to bend without compromising the glue.
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Jul 10, 2016 02:53
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I painted the Hunters Grim for my Trollbloods. Put if off for a long time because they're such good sculpts and I was intimidated. Happy to finally be done with them. 
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Jul 10, 2016 04:29
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Managed to actually sit down and finish something for once. Did a Branchwraith/OG Drycha for a Sylvaneth army. (Excuse the poor lighting)   This is the most drybrushing I've ever done on a model... In ever. I hate doing it, but it works well for wood and I'll need some practice for the bigger lads (Treemen and whatnot).
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Jul 10, 2016 17:35
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How do I fasten my miniatures to a regiment-base (i.e. kings of war style: a big 10cm x 8cm sheet with 15-20 miniatures attached) ? I ask because in the past I used superglue on the feet of my dudes and they popped off like crazy. I'd rather not pin every single one - is there a middle ground?
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Jul 10, 2016 18:14
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Southern Heel posted:How do I fasten my miniatures to a regiment-base (i.e. kings of war style: a big 10cm x 8cm sheet with 15-20 miniatures attached) ? I ask because in the past I used superglue on the feet of my dudes and they popped off like crazy. I'd rather not pin every single one - is there a middle ground?
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Jul 10, 2016 18:31
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Southern Heel posted:How do I fasten my miniatures to a regiment-base (i.e. kings of war style: a big 10cm x 8cm sheet with 15-20 miniatures attached) ? I ask because in the past I used superglue on the feet of my dudes and they popped off like crazy. I'd rather not pin every single one - is there a middle ground? What are you gluing the models to? If its plastic, then plastic glue will provide the strongest hold for that material (assuming plastic models, that is). If you're using MDF, super glue works perfectly--it fastens itself to there almost immediately and gives one hell of a strong hold.
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Jul 10, 2016 18:57
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Good call on 2-part epoxy. They're mostly ABS, but going onto laser-cut MDF/cork/filler/flock/etc. as the bases are somewhat scenic
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Jul 10, 2016 19:07
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Avenging Dentist posted:I don't want to make it brittle; I just want to bend a resin piece into shape. However, my previous attempt caused a hairline fracture in the part that I superglued shut, and I would ideally like that glue to remain strong so I don't snap the piece completely in two while bending it. If you die can I have your minis?
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Jul 10, 2016 22:01
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I have a quick Q for my ginger dwarf berserkers: I've gone from a reddish-brown up to blazing orange and then a highlight of golden yellow - I'd like to tie it together and get a little bit of shading in the crevices. Should I glaze with a dilute blazing orange or that reddish-brown base colour? Secondly, is there a simplified version of this: http://www.coolminiornot.com/articles/1649-metallics I can apply to my R&F? I'm thinking light-blue glaze followed by purple/brown ink and then drybrushed back to boltgun metal and a final highlight of silver. Thoughts? I'm going to have two regiments of 20 Ironguard/Forge Fathers.
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Jul 10, 2016 22:49
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Southern Heel posted:I have a quick Q for my ginger dwarf berserkers: I've gone from a reddish-brown up to blazing orange and then a highlight of golden yellow - I'd like to tie it together and get a little bit of shading in the crevices. Should I glaze with a dilute blazing orange or that reddish-brown base colour? Secret Weapon Armor Wash is a great greenish brown that shades metallics wonderfully for very little effort.
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Jul 10, 2016 22:52
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Goons, I need to paint strip old citadel metal models from '97 They've been painted really badly, eBay rescues basically.  As you can see, they're super thick, and taking a hobby knife to it shows they've been painted over probably 3 times. I need it bare metal again for my own army, and don't mind using toxic chemicals, as I have a mechanic next door who has a collection for brake fluid, oils etc. I just want the most thorough option, and having attempted simple green and then spent literal hours scrubbing at them with old tooth brushes, I need something with more grunt. Has anyone here had experience stripping models with brake fluid, oven cleaner or the like?
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Jul 11, 2016 00:01
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I have used break fluid (on metals and plastics), and it works. If that's pewter, acetone (nail polish remover) might also do the trick.
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Jul 11, 2016 00:02
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I did a thing. Yay.
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Jul 11, 2016 00:04
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New Imgur hosting is frustratingly slow. Here's some Guild Bros I got sick of waiting to center and crop better.     
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Jul 11, 2016 00:17
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Skarsnik posted:What colour? The white and grey really needs leaving a good 12 hrs then its bulletproof I freshly washed a metal model the day before, the next day I primed it with the Vallejo stuff, then I let it cure for 48 hours. When I picked up the model to take a look at the primer job the primer instantly started coming off from the lightest brushing of my goonie sausage fingers. I am not impressed with this stuff for durability. It is pretty drat awesome for nice coverage and not obscuring detail. I could see a competition painter using it, but I don't see how it can withstand gaming.
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Jul 11, 2016 00:19
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Avenging Dentist posted:I have used break fluid (on metals and plastics), and it works. If that's pewter, acetone (nail polish remover) might also do the trick. Ah awesome. I tried to grab some nail polish remover, but they're all acetone free now. Googling tells me I can get a litre of pure acetone for about $15, so I'll try a hardware store.
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Jul 11, 2016 00:29
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Yeast posted:Goons, I need to paint strip old citadel metal models from '97 If you're in the UK, biostrip. If you're not, get something with dichloromethane in. Wear nitrile gloves and a respirator.
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Jul 11, 2016 00:30
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TTerrible posted:If you're in the UK, biostrip. If you're not, get something with dichloromethane in. Legend, thank you! https://www.bunnings.com.au/selleys-2l-polystrippa_p1715090 Looks like this contains the ingredient. Easy!
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Jul 11, 2016 00:32
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Yeast posted:Legend, thank you! Biostrip will not harm plastic or metal but will ruin resin. Anything with DCM in it will straight up dissolve plastic and resin and leave metal totally bare.
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Jul 11, 2016 00:33
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TTerrible posted:Biostrip will not harm plastic or metal but will ruin resin. Anything with DCM in it will straight up dissolve plastic and resin and leave metal totally bare. That's exactly the sort of thing I'm after. It's all pure metal that I'm working with, but has been repainted so many times it's basically smooth.
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Jul 11, 2016 00:34
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Yeast posted:That's exactly the sort of thing I'm after. It's all pure metal that I'm working with, but has been repainted so many times it's basically smooth. Yeah, it'll blow that away. A lot of the time it is easier on thick paint, it turns into rubber and you can just peel it off almost entirely intact.
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Jul 11, 2016 00:36
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I forgot to oath these before I started (oops), but I finally picked up some bronze and steel paints (my old citidel pot steel dried up, so I got the drippper kind instead). Now I can finally finish these! A snake lady, and papyrus!  Spagetti! Puzzles! I really wish there was a portly reaper skeleton.  The main thing that attracted me to this figure was the fact that she has 6 arms, which I thought I could use interestingly in a skirmish-level miniatures game I'm developing. Judging by the painted samples on the Reaper site, I'm pretty sure she was intended to be painted topless. Nope.  The snake lady is standing over a skull. I still will likely need to touch these up (seems I always have to with Reaper figures I find holes where the paint didn't stick, or places I missed.) and I haven't done any sort of highlighting, and I need to paint the bases eventually. Foolster41 fucked around with this message at 02:23 on Jul 11, 2016 |
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Jul 11, 2016 02:19
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So my dad wants me to paint something for him as some kind of token he can have in his house. I need some kind of a suggestion of a 54mm or bigger thing to paint that isn't expensive as hell but also doesn't have Bones-style gaps all over it. What's a good website for this?
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Jul 11, 2016 02:36
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signalnoise posted:So my dad wants me to paint something for him as some kind of token he can have in his house. I need some kind of a suggestion of a 54mm or bigger thing to paint that isn't expensive as hell but also doesn't have Bones-style gaps all over it. What's a good website for this? If your dad is like my dad and loves historicals, you might want to browse some of the products from Young's Miniatures. I'm not too sure about ordering from them, but you can find their products on ebay.
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Jul 11, 2016 03:10
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Yeast posted:Ah awesome. I tried to grab some nail polish remover, but they're all acetone free now. Googling tells me I can get a litre of pure acetone for about $15, so I'll try a hardware store. The pure acetone from a hardware store is the way to go. If anyone else is looking for acetone in a pinch, some drug stores have "professional" nail polish remover that's clear and pretty much pure acetone. I've used it before when a drug store was more accessible than a hardware store.
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Jul 11, 2016 04:13
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Yeast posted:Ah awesome. I tried to grab some nail polish remover, but they're all acetone free now. Are you sure about that? In the US at least, I see lots of brands of nail polish remover with acetone as their first ingredient. I haven't had any issue with using the diluted stuff from a drug store, but then I've only used acetone on small bits, and mostly to dissolve superglue.
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Jul 11, 2016 04:15
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Star Man posted:I did a thing. Yay. Nice clean work, good stuff.
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Jul 11, 2016 04:26
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Avenging Dentist posted:Are you sure about that? In the US at least, I see lots of brands of nail polish remover with acetone as their first ingredient. I haven't had any issue with using the diluted stuff from a drug store, but then I've only used acetone on small bits, and mostly to dissolve superglue. Might have just been the pharmacy I was in. In Australia yeah you can still buy it, its just very uncommon now. (apparently). I'm going to buy some Acetone and some Paint Stripper (dichloromethane) and see how I go.
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Jul 11, 2016 04:30
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Fyrbrand posted:I painted the Hunters Grim for my Trollbloods. Put if off for a long time because they're such good sculpts and I was intimidated. Happy to finally be done with them. These guys own. That wood grain is to die for, and those glowing runes are sick.
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Jul 11, 2016 05:06
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Fyrbrand posted:Nice clean work, good stuff. Merci. I prefer the clean look over the aged and damaged look. But I'm also only striving for tabletop-quality painting because I just want to get this poo poo over with.
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Jul 11, 2016 05:11
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Fyrbrand posted:I painted the Hunters Grim for my Trollbloods. Put if off for a long time because they're such good sculpts and I was intimidated. Happy to finally be done with them. These guys are sweet, how do you do the wood grain?
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Jul 11, 2016 06:53
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Crossposting my Gatormen Posse from the Oath Thread... while the actual painting process was very easy, getting to the scheme was not. I planned on doing the back scales like that from the get go, and wanted the skin yellow; that ended up looking awful. Next up, I painted one guy in a very light brown; that ended up looking boring. I finally settled on going all in on the green, but with two different techniques. Sadly, the skin tone isn't as different from the back scales as I would like, but I'm happy with the result. As for how to paint them, I spraypainted white and put on two more thin white coats to get a very bright white. I then washed the entire model yellow. The back scales then got two green washes and a sepia wash - done! No highlighting needed, the yellow from the very first wash still shines through, I really like the effect. First read that technique here on these forums, someone uses it to paint ork skin. The actual scales where also washed yellow, then two very thin, almost washlike coats of the lightes green I had lying around (I think army painter goblin green), followed by a green wash. The polearm wood is also a very thinned brown, just one coat, nothing else. I really like this painting style, it's quick and yields good result for people who can't highlight well.
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Jul 11, 2016 09:18
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Yeast posted:Goons, I need to paint strip old citadel metal models from '97 Break it apart, dump it into nitrocellulose solvent for 5 minutes, clean with brush (not a toothbrush, use some lovely natural brush as it'll eat through synthetic ones in no time, also you're not scrubbing mechanically, just letting the solvent get where it needs to). Repeat until stripped. Rinse with water. Dump into acetone (solvent-grade, not some nail polish remover poo poo), leave overnight to remove glue (epoxy gets brittle and easy to scrap off, superglue becomes jelly that's easy to pick with tweezers). That'll work in 95% cases, if not, repeat. I found this to be the best combination that won't gently caress you up for life if you do something wrong. Warning: nitro is nasty poo poo, far more than acetone. Do not grab it with bare hands, latex gloves are ok against random drops but it'll happily eat through them in the long run so I use tweezers/tissues to hold the parts when stripping. Do it outside. Wear eye protection. Do not breathe fumes more than you have to.
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Jul 11, 2016 10:16
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TTerrible posted:dichloromethane    That literally took about 6 mins.
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Jul 11, 2016 13:06
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Luebbi posted:Crossposting my Gatormen Posse from the Oath Thread... I like these guys, they are bright and very clean. Are the bases done? I feel like some foliage (like weeds or something) could kick it up a notch.
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Jul 11, 2016 13:19
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