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Yeah, I did. Also, I just finished doing the passenger side tie rod end. Had  my fiancee help me do a ghetto alignment to specs (0.00 degree +/- .5) using a tape measure and measuring the near edge of the tire tread front/back as I adjusted it. Tracks better, and doesn't wander. And with the car on the ground, I can't wiggle the tire back and forth anymore  . However, with it jacked up, there's still the teeny tiniest bit of click back and forth, barely perceptible, and I can't track down what's making it. And when driving on the road surface, there's still occasional clunking from the front passenger side. Anymore I think it's strut bearing and/or steering rack, because the passenger side of the steering rack boot is torn open. But that's not nearly as dangerous as a tie rod that's maybe 500 miles from separating, so I'm still happy I replaced it. E: bonus cattes 
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Jul 4, 2016 00:52
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This thread is like watching my own Honda experience, but in a slightly larger scale (also you got poo poo done way faster than I did). Congratulations on also having a PO who used every part of the buffalo. My car had four different tires with four different date codes and two of them were cupped so badly they won't stand up on their own or even stack. My PO's crowning achievement was removing the reverse bulbs because the reverse switch had somehow become inverted from its normal behaviour (neutral/1st-5th: reverse light on, reverse: reverse light off).
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Jul 4, 2016 19:45
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Ha, I'm sure she would have done that if the switch failed the same way. As it is, the only reason this CRV is still trucking along is because it's a Honda and its in a no roadsalt state. And don't worry, ACVW-chat is still ongoing, but everything was delayed by two weeks because of this. Getting the missus a car with AC and an automatic was higher priority than putting air conditioning in the Bus. As it is, none of us have time to register it this week and I have drill next weekend, so she has to drive the beetle for another week or so. But hey, at least she's learning stickshift, which is a good life skill to have. The beetle's got a front main seal leak and is on the last legs of that clutch anyway, and I have a new clutch/TOB/pressure plate/crank seal in a box for the weekend I finally get the motivation to change it. And this being my first Honda, I can totally see the motorcycle underpinnings. Everything is just different enough from the Fords and Chryslers and GM vehicles I've got a big history with, the least of which is the transverse engine rotating counter-clockwise. But little things like fastener choice and placement, and accessory location, are much more utilitarian.
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Jul 4, 2016 20:11
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In the general case Hondas seem to be built by people who think they are very clever, unlike Subarus which are built by the laziest motherfuckers on the planet.
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Jul 4, 2016 21:11
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Seat Safety Switch posted:In the general case Hondas seem to be built by people who think they are very clever, unlike Subarus which are built by the laziest motherfuckers on the planet. Too bad that most of the time PO maintenance on a Honda is also done by the laziest motherfuckers on the planet.
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Jul 4, 2016 21:16
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driguy posted:Too bad that most of the time PO maintenance on a Honda is also done by the laziest motherfuckers on the planet. My guy put forward the effort to replace an alternator twice but never replaced the alternator belt. They included (and bragged about) a "spare tire" which turned out to be a corded bald tire without a wheel stuck into the spare tire well beneath water-damaged cardboard. They had two brand new financed $50k+ Kia Sedona minivans so they could take their 19 year old son to guitar practice. I didn't put my address on their copy of the bill of sale. Seat Safety Switch fucked around with this message at 21:31 on Jul 4, 2016 |
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Jul 4, 2016 21:29
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Geirskogul posted:Heading out to pick up the right spark plugs right now. Goddamn. That thing may be rough around the edges, but someone stayed up on at least oil changes. How's the timing belt look?
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Jul 4, 2016 21:31
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Timing belt looked fairly fresh, but not new. No fraying or staining, and was fairly clean rubber. But I still don't trust it, and kits with a waterpump and all seals are only like $150. I need to get some ATF-Z1, as the transmission fluid is pretty brown. Doesn't smell burned, but definitely very, very used. And recommended change on these is 30k from what I can tell. I've also put maybe 30 miles on the thing since doing the last ECU fault code clear, and the valve adjustments. I don't have any pending codes anymore, which is awesome. If it stays this way and we get it through emissions, I'll be super happy. Let's look through the Arizona emissions history: 11/30/2011: Fail, Check engine light on. Codes: 0172, 0420, 0304. Wonder if this led to the distributor/igniter? 12/27/2011: Fail, Check engine light on, but curiously also "MIL NOT COMMANDED ON" 11/29/2013: Fail, OBD NOT READY 12/05/2013: Pass 01/15/2016: Pass, but pending code P0172 I also notice the owner's put 3k on it between January and now. I've also noticed that the pipe between the manifold and the cat (between the upstream O2 sensor and the cat, about 10 inches long) is a welded-in replacement. I guess there may have been a leak? It's also the perfect location for someone to hit it on a rock. Queen_Combat fucked around with this message at 22:00 on Jul 4, 2016 |
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Jul 4, 2016 21:57
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Okay, so after my last post, I started feeling like I hadn't accomplished enough this weekend (Sat-Mon). Next weekend is drill, so it's useless to me. Thus, I must do more things. First, on the CRV front, I found this curious orange switch to the left of the steering wheel.  It does nothing as far as I can tell. I also found this clearly aftermarket red light. Also does nothing.  in the glovebox was a manual for the Honda Keyless Entry system, so I'm assuming at one point that the car had remote lock. Since the bus had been neglected all week, I decided to weld in the mounts for the chair. I took some angle steel, measured the chair bolt pattern, and cut the appropriate pieces. Then, I took my buzzbox welder, and slapped it on. I apologize in advance for the poo poo photos - I didn't realize the camera lens was smudgy. But at least the smudges hide some of the shame.   I will never be a welder. Like AvE says, "a grinder and paint make me the welder I ain't."    This seat isn't for riding in during driving, just relaxing. And for those of you worried that I'm relying solely on my lovely welds to hold it down, worry no more!  Both brackets go underneath to a matching piece of steel acting as a spreader bar, and I used grade 8 bolts (expensive  ) to hold them down. Also, while the welder (obviously) overwhelmed my onboard system, I was able to use the angle grinder and drill just fine from my outlets. 2kW pure sine, bitches 
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Jul 5, 2016 02:39
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Any evidence of an aftermarket alarm? IIRC the keyless entry was a dealer add-on back then, and wasn't usually factory installed. Also IIRC, the controller just plugged in to existing wiring under the dash. No lights or switches or anything went with it.
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Jul 5, 2016 05:06
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Wahey! Passed emissions, and registered. 99% betting it was the valves needing adjustment. That means the exhaust valves have been tight since 2011, and for at least 32k miles  .
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Jul 5, 2016 23:08
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Geirskogul posted:Also, this was very satisfying: This video lit up a very old part of my memories... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GX2bqI--c-k
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Jul 5, 2016 23:33
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Oh god I didn't watch it with sound the first time and I had no clue they pronounced the "G." Holy poo poo. This was drill weekend, so I didn't have much time to do anything on the bus. I did drag my rear end off of the couch today, despite how sore I am, and get to work fixing the exhaust leak on the bus. It's really loud, and mostly on the driver's side. Turns out the entire muffler was hanging a bit tilted down, leaving the upper parts of both flanges pretty much open. The gaskets look like this:  with two bolts on the bottom, and one on the top. The top stud was chewed up, and I apparently hadn't tightened it all the way on both sides. I removed the muffler, and cleaned up the threads using a combination of a dental pick and a few nuts back and forth on all of the threads. Then, I used the death wheel and a flapper disc to clean up the mating surfaces on both the muffler and the headers. While doing this, I discovered a hole clean through one header right near the flange, maybe 1cm away. It was close enough I could get the head of my welder inside, and I welded the hole closed. The hole isn't accessible from the outside due to the heater boxes. Of course, in the process of welding (laying on my side on the asphalt), a piece of slag flew and landed perfectly in my ear, burning my right ear hairs. I can still hear out of it, but by god it was painful and smelled/sounded awful. Always wear ear plugs, kids! The muffler is back on, now, with the gaskets also cleaned up (I have fiber-style gaskets instead of the single-use metal ones pictured) and a bit of orange RTV around the holes. We'll see if it holds, but it should at least be better than it was. While I was down there I noticed that the rear passenger tire inner sidewall had the end of what looked like a binder clip metal spring embedded . I pulled it out and I don't hear any air escaping, but these are single-ply polyester sidewall tires, and I fear the worst. At least they're fairly new with only maybe 2k miles on them total, so if I have to get a replacement it's just like $50 and the time to rotate them. Just a pain in the dick.CRV update: still hasn't popped any codes or the check engine light, with her driving it to work daily. That's excellent. Beetle update: still leaking oil from the front main seal, and the passenger valve cover gasket. I've attacked the gasket with fixes on fixes but it still won't stop  New gaskets (both copper and silicone), sanding/polishing the mating surfaces, etc. I think I may do what I did on the bus and get some bolt-on valve covers, because the rubber gasket on those is a better design than the slip-in cork ones.
Queen_Combat fucked around with this message at 23:26 on Jul 11, 2016 |
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Jul 11, 2016 23:11
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Geirskogul posted:Wahey! Passed emissions, and registered. 99% betting it was the valves needing adjustment. That means the exhaust valves have been tight since 2011, and for at least 32k miles Love AZ OBDII emissions tests, so easy and no bullshit. The ATF-Z1 has been superceded by ATF-DW1. If you actually find any ATF-Z1 on the shelf, it's ancient. I'm pretty sure the only stuff with an actual Z1 or DW1 label on it is Honda OE fluid, since they don't license the spec out like Dexron / Mercon / ATF+4. It's not too bad if you get it by the case on eBay, which you should probably do since the recommended method is doing at least three changes in short order. My '13 CRV went right at three quarts per change.
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Jul 11, 2016 23:21
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Yeah, through Amazon I discovered it's now DW-1. Also, once I get going, it's difficult to stop being productive. Not too productive, but squashing one small project after another. After doing the exhaust, I cleaned out my toolboxes and put all of the wrenches/pliers/screwdrivers/sockets into a bucket full of simple green/spitfire to clean them. They're disgusting and the toolbox is disgusting. One day I'll get a roller cabinet but I have a lot more uses for $200 before then. A decal came in the mail:  I've had a new vacuum can sitting around for the bus for a long time. When I had to replace the beetle one, I figured that the bus' would also be on the way out, due to a similar vintage. Also the bus can is a combined vacuum/retard setup but the carburetor doesn't have a vacuum retard port, so I've had it blocked off.  The yellow boxes are usually full of expensive, but reliable, parts.  Here, you can see that the new can has two screw holes, whereas the old one has only one in the center. That was easy enough to fix with a drill bit and two minutes.  It's installed now, and I timed the engine, but I haven't run it more than the two minutes it takes to do that, as I want to ensure that the sealant has time to fully cure. Didn't want it heating up. Engine was a poo poo-ton quieter without four square inches of exhaust leak, though.
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Jul 12, 2016 01:27
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The 100$ 4 drawer from harbor freight is an excellent roll around and holds a good amount. Just letting you know. But I understand the better things to spend money on l.
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Jul 12, 2016 03:21
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Phoenix area goons looking for a really good toolbox, might take a look at this which was just posted on the local Solo2 forum - http://www.azsolo.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=14765 $7600 Snap-on toolbox + $1400'ish riser for $2600. Note that I have never even considered spending that much on a toolbox, so I have no idea if this is actually a good deal or not.
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Jul 12, 2016 07:20
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 Plus a 250A mega fuse from a jag on ebay. Just building a list - haven't pulled the trigger yet.
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Jul 14, 2016 09:37
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That looks an awful lot like my 'unfuck the XJ's wiring disaster' wishlist, and I can't help but approve.
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Jul 15, 2016 03:09
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SON OF A BITCH Got the stuff today, but the switch in the BSS kit was rattling. Took it apart and:   It's like amazon shipped me someone else's return.
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Jul 16, 2016 19:50
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Other than the broken switch, I've got a mock-up of the placement for the two additional deep-cycle batteries. I've also made the battery cables and hooked it up to test the inverter/charger, and it seems kosher. My inverter has some DIP switches, to change things like charge rate (15A or 55A), battery type (flooded or gel), and inverter power sense (waits for a 5W load on the outlet before fully turning on the inverter). I have a mix of AGM and flooded batteries. The DIP switch setting changes the bulk and float charge voltage:  Since I have a mix of flooded and AGM (which isn't gel, I know) I think I'll keep it in the flooded setting to keep from boiling the flooded batteries with a high float charge. Tomorrow I plan on doing the timing belt and transmission fluid flush(es) on the CRV, then using whatever scrap wood I have around to build the battery box and A/C stand. I might also install the A/C intake/exhaust vents and drain tray if I have the time/motivation. I don't have enough money for the A/C unit itself (generic 5k BTU LG or Haier window unit, whatever I find), but I think everything is going to check out. I have a true sine wave 1050W inverter with 2kW 5 second peak, and it looks like most window A/C units have an EER of 11 or so nowadays, which means they should be drawing maybe 400-450W running full tilt. Add in conversion losses of between 10-30% based on temperature, and I've got a comfort zone of 600/1000W usage. I'm also printing out another mount for the ACR and battery switch. I took what I learned from my first one last year and modified this design a bit for ease of assembly. 
Queen_Combat fucked around with this message at 04:43 on Jul 17, 2016 |
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Jul 17, 2016 04:40
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Came out okay. I messed up the design of the center pillar (used an old file for the modification - I fixed it with a second print).  Also, CR-V chat: Today I did the timing belt. I'm super tired and super angry about a lot of things that happened on the homefront today, but the timing belt was changed. So, as follows is a semi stream-of-consciousness post about things I remember: - 4 out of 8 bolts holding on the timing belt cover. - 2 bolts missing on the oil pan. Half of the remaining bolts were finger-loose. - Water pump did not have a gasket - only a super-thick bead of black RTV. Which is weird, because it is actually a pretty skookum aftermarket one. Not cheap at all. - Timing belt tensioner was loose. It's a sprung design where you put the tensioner bolt on and pull it to full looseness, and tighten the center bolt. Then after installing the belt you loosen the bolt to snap it into tension, then tighten it up. They clearly skipped the last step. - Lower left engine mount was/is totally and completely gone. No rubber left, just rattling around. So, due to budgetary constraints, I filled the entire void with some silicone II I had lying around. It's no Windo-Weld, but it'll do for now and is a ton better than it was. - Crank pulley bolt was on WAY too tight. 40 minutes with my impact gun (electric hammerhead, between 150-250 ft/lbs) did nothing. Deep creep, propane, MAP-PRO (R.I.P. true MAPP gas, 1939-2008), freeze spray, nothing. I have the no-hole crank so I can't do the chain trick or use a conventional puller, and nobody had the honda tool in stock for my budget of <$30 (all I have until payday). So, I had to make a tool using cheap plumbing parts:   1 1/2 hex pipe adapter, with short bit of DIP to give my pipe wrench something to grip. Had to buy a $8 pipe wrench from Harbor Freight, but I can return that. Three feet of extensions, a jack stand for a fulcrum point, and a breaker bar with a piece of pipe. It still took me another two hours to loosen. I'm guessing and honest 400+ ft/lbs of torque on that sucker, plus a decade+ of corrosive bonding. Why was it on so tight you may ask? Well, that's because - No woodruff key on the crank pulley! loving POs. As an aside, there's a rattle in the exhaust, and I thought it was a heat shield. So, after buttoning up the timing belt project, I climbed under and started the car to diagnose. Well, the rattle is from a bolt or nut left INSIDE the exhaust pipe. I'd love to get it out, but there are no flanges anymore. Like, at all. It goes from exhaust manifold to a flange at the catalytic converter, but from the converter back it's one solid piece of welded pipe. They threw a genuine Honda resonator there in the middle, but it's straight welded to the pipe that's welded to the cat that's welded to the muffler. And the weirder part? They're really nice welds. Definitely shop work by somebody who knows welding. They just don't know, y'know, exhausts or automobiles, apparently. Queen_Combat fucked around with this message at 08:03 on Jul 18, 2016 |
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Jul 18, 2016 07:09
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For sale, one CRV. Timing belt just replaced* *by someone not even qualified to build something out of Duplo. Jesus, that's a pain in the dick.
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Jul 18, 2016 07:12
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Trust me when I say Honda puts all of their rattle guns on that bolt for a solid 10 minutes, after dipping the bolt in loctite red. I've seen people attempt to use a 6 ft breaker bar on that bolt and fail. Honda crank pulley bolts (at least on B, D, F, and H engines) are seriously torqued to ungodly amounts. And even torqued properly, they manage to tighten up over time. I'd guess it may be the reverse rotation of the engine vs most engines, but I don't remember if it's a reverse thread bolt. The same timing belt install issue crippled my last Civic - I did an aggressive downshift (5th to 2nd, given the speed it was enough to send it to 6500 RPM or so very quickly, but under redline), and as soon as I let the clutch out it died. Had it towed to my mechanic, he called me an hour later saying "whoever did this timing belt job was a loving idiot, they never undid the pin on the tensioner". Thankfully the belt had only jumped one tooth - enough to keep it from starting, but not enough to bend any valves. And the timing belt only had 20k on it, mechanic agreed whoever did it used good parts... just hosed up on the tensioner, so all parts were reused.
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Jul 18, 2016 11:30
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Ha, crazy. Also, the manual I downloaded said it's only supposed to be 137 or so ft/lbs. It's also a standard thread, and it's a b20 engine so it's also CCW rotation. My torque wrench only goes to 80, so I made sure it clicked on that, then I used the breaker bar and put a similar force on it. The breaker bar has twice the length, and I made sure the bolt yielded. Of course I also threw a woodruff key in there.
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Jul 18, 2016 14:16
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Can I donate you my old clicky torque wrench? It's not in perfect condition (the ring that adjusts the torque setting has to be treated nicely or it falls off) but works fine, and I got a replacement because I ended up needing one ASAP 300 miles from where it was so I don't use it anyways. It's doing no one any good sitting here and I can't sell it. I can't guarantee when I'll ship it because I'm forgetful and busy, but it's yours if you want it. Goes to at least 175 foot pounds, I can't remember how much more than that it'll do because that's the highest I've ever needed to use it for (XJ/MJ axle nuts.)
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Jul 18, 2016 18:55
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Sure. You got PayPal? I'm throw a few bucks your way Friday.
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Jul 18, 2016 21:38
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No worries dude, you don't owe me anything, it should be stupid cheap to ship. I'll let you know when I have it boxed up and ready to go.
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Jul 18, 2016 22:48
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Cool beans, thanks! Also, to save a bit more money, I've switched the power plan on my house from a "Time Advantage" plan to what they call a "super peak" plan. Before, electricity during the summer was a standard $.061/kWh, except for the time between noon and 7 PM, where it went up to .245/kWh. Since it's Phoenix, I assume they want people to use less electricity during the peak A/C time periods. "Super Peak" has a similar arrangement, except standard electricity drops to $.055/kWh, with the trade-off that between 3 and 6 PM it's a massive $.45/kWh (with the standard noon-3 and 6-7 being the same $.245). Using their online calulator, even if I didn't change anything about my usage, I would drop my bill about $200/year by switching plans. I'm already pretty aggressive with power management between noon-7, so I guess the standard rate drop is where that savings is coming from. I'm going to do more. I already have the hot water heater off from noon-7, and the A/C on the nest goes to 82 degrees during that same time period. To keep the cats from dying (not literally), I had the fan run for 15 minutes/hour to circulate air. I'm going to shut the HVAC fan off from 3-6 I'm also going to pre-cool the house from 11 instead of from 1115 to make up a little for the difference. Also, the "super peak" three-hour chunk only applies from June-August, but the rate savings still applies year-round. And while the "time advantage" hours stay year-round from noon-7, to make up for the super peak rates during the summer, they lower the standard peak rates from $.245 to $.198 from November to April, whereas before it was $.245 year-round. I can work with this. I've dropped my average monthly bill from $250 to $125 by changing habits and programming the Nest to agree. I think I can get it under $100, which is pretty amazing for Phoenix. Also all of this applies to the weekdays only. Weekends and the 7 major holidays there aren't any peak days. They even give the day before Thanksgiving a break because a lot of people cook the day prior.
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Jul 18, 2016 23:31
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In short what I'm saying is I need to get out of the house more, specifically between 3-6, on my Monday off.
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Jul 18, 2016 23:34
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It may look like a fire hazard, but it is fused. I need to get a hex crimper. The hammer crimper is way better than anything you can do with pliers, but a hex crimper is a gigantic step up in crimp quality I feel. House battery (engine bay) runs through "250A" (Amazon reviews say more like 150) breaker. From breaker, goes both to the Automatic Charging Relay, and to Circuit 2 of the battery switch. From the ACR, it goes to the 6-way power point, that goes into the inverter. Optima battery bank goes straight to Circuit 1 on the battery switch, through a 200A "MEGA" fuse I scored on ebay from a Jaaaaag, to the power point, to the inverter. The solar battery powers interior accessories and acts as a buffer for the house battery. Once the solar battery hits 12.8V, the charge controller starts charging the house battery (no ACR, charge controller handles it). The solar battery only connects to the inverter from before the "250A" breaker, through it's own 80A breaker that goes between the solar battery and the accessories. If I really, really super-duper need the inverter for something, or need to use the Optima batteries as an emergency start, I can move the internal battery switch to "Emergency Combine," which combines circuits 1 and 2. To get to the engine battery in an emergency jump situation, I would also have to go back to the engine bay and also move that switch to "Emergency Combine," as otherwise the engine battery is totally isolated from any accessory load. ---------Charging Scenarios--------- 1: Engine charging 1A- Alternator charges engine battery. ACR will start charging House battery once engine battery reaches certain voltage. 1B- House battery goes through "250A" breaker to second ACR to charge Optima bank. 1C- Simultaneously, solar charge controller starts charging solar battery. 2: Solar charging 2A- Solar panel charges solar battery 2B- Charge controller starts charging House battery 2C- Once solar and House batteries reach certain voltage, ACR starts charging Optima bank 3: Shore line charging 3A- Inverter/Charger starts charging Optima bank 3B- Optima bank reaches certain voltage, ACR starts charging House 3C- Simultaneously, charge controller siphons off to charge solar battery 3D- House battery reaches certain voltage, ACR starts charging engine battery ---------Accessory Configuration--------- - Engine battery controls engine and lights - House battery controls stereo, front USB/12V ports - Solar battery controls bedside USB/12V ports, interior lighting - Optima bank controls the inverter (and, next week, the A/C). ---------Future Plans--------- Remove solar battery. Seriously I don't even know why I did it. Maybe just add it to the optima bank for more A/C time maybe. Put loom on all of those battery connections. I predict a future where the tar insulation peels up and shorts. Not skookum at all. Queen_Combat fucked around with this message at 04:29 on Jul 19, 2016 |
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Jul 19, 2016 02:47
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Re: Power usage in Phoenix. One of the down sides to getting solar (from an eco-friendly point of view) is that I now have so much on-peak excessive credits built up in the winter, that I never use before they buy them back for basically nothing at the end of December, that I just pay no loving attention whatsoever to my power usage anymore. A/C lives at 77 degrees whether I'm here or at work (or even on vacation most of the time), and I use as much hot water as I want, whenever I want and do cooking and washing whenever. It's kind of funny in a way, that because I went solar, I am much less aware of my power usage, even though I know that there is no way the panels are offsetting the power during peak usage times in the summer.
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Jul 19, 2016 02:56
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Something felt weird after doing the Honda's timing belt. It was driving fine and had okay power with no check engine codes, but it was noisier than usual. Of course, the way to remedy this is by taking everything apart again (except for the actual timing belt and water pump), resetting everything including timing belt tension, then putting everything back together again. The second time through, the entire thing only took 45 minutes total. I don't know what it was, whether a cover or maybe I didn't fully tighten the alternator belt, but it's back to being drat near silent, like a sewing machine. 
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Jul 20, 2016 04:33
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I did the transmission flush as recommend by Honda. Three times, three quarts each time. The first two flushes I used Castrol/Valvoline Honda-specific transmission fluid. Most people seem to report no problems with older transmissions with the new aftermarket fluid. The final flush I used the unicorn blood Honda DW-1. The transmission fluid that came out on the first drain was blacker and smellier than anything I've ever seen. I'm 99%-certain the transmission has never drained, ever. The fluid was nearly thinner than water. The magnetic plug had a healthy, but not overbearing, amount of schmoo on it. The plug itself had an even coating of dealer-applied undercoat, untouched. Feels like it shifts better now. Between each flush I took it up on the freeway and put cruise on just to ensure I locked up the torque converter. At least gives me piece of mind, especially at (now) 193k. Queen_Combat fucked around with this message at 15:56 on Jul 21, 2016 |
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Jul 21, 2016 15:52
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IT SURE IS A NICE 18 HOURS YOU HAVE BETWEEN SHIFTS THERE IT WOULD BE A SHAME  IF SOMETHING WERE  TO HAPPEN TO IT 
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Jul 22, 2016 07:52
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Have you ever considered a nice reliable Honda Civic for a daily driver? 
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Jul 22, 2016 08:00
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Listen how new does it have to be? Also I know those welds are super lovely, but I tacked it twice on each side then put a ton of poo poo on top to maybe brace (?) it, because that little tube is carrying a large chunk of the force of the clutch on it. It's nighttime and I was welding under a car by flashlight upside down. Pretty much my worst nightmare. It looks like this when finished (not my picture)  I meant to weld it right on the other tube, but I was flying blind for those first tacks. It solved my problem of the clutch cable being too long, though. Now the adjuster is right in the middle  Also imgur SUCKS GODDAMNED BALLS NOW gently caress THIS GODDAMNED WEBSITE. They took away options, like sorting pictures by filename, or uploading more than one photo from a URL. Seriously, you paste a URL and it just goes "vwoop" to the uploaded photo without letting you put in a second one, or one from your computer. Time to find a new image host.
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Jul 22, 2016 08:56
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Changed the steering damper on the bus:  Also changed it on the beetle, but I guess I didn't really need to, as the beetle's was pretty new already. Still felt 95% as good as the new one, and was the same manufacturer. The bus's was original, though, and it feels a lot better to drive around. The old one on the bus had completely no resistance at all; just a loose rod barely held in the casing by the rubber seal. Beetlecatte is getting a lot bigger. Here he is pictured sleeping on some pyjamas, because I have his blanket in the wash:  Self note for future reference, replacement-schedule wise Today (past 10 days) I changed: Beetle's oil, 992 odo miles (replacement odo) Bus's oil, ~8k odo miles CRV's oil, ~193k miles -filters all- CRV: Timing Belt Water Pump Valve adjustment Bus: Clutch cable Clutch Bowden Tube Steering damper Distributor vacuum can Beetle: Steering damper Adjusted brakes Queen_Combat fucked around with this message at 03:57 on Jul 24, 2016 |
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Jul 24, 2016 03:23
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Just making adapters for the A/C hoses. This one has some louvers (and I'll add a screen in front) to maybe keep some bugs and road debris out of the A/C intake. Will go under the bed in the floor, pointed down:  Printing now.  I've also got three others without louvers I've printed to adapt the exhaust out. Now I've just got to make a decorative outer one and buy some ABS+ (UV-stable ABS-style plastic that doesn't shrink as much) to print it in. It's kind of difficult to design for 3D printing. If you don't want to use support, you need no greater than a 45-55 degree angle to the surface so the printer can print it, and no sheer overhangs. You can get away with small holes without support, though the "top" layer of the hole is always a little fucky. Plz change title to "Transporter 5: Let's 3D print a bus!" or "Transporter 5: Hipster tech fixing Hippy problems" tia (you don't have to just making a funny) Queen_Combat fucked around with this message at 05:06 on Jul 26, 2016 |
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Jul 26, 2016 04:58
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| # ? May 14, 2024 21:42 |
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Oh poo poo, Santa does exist 
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Jul 26, 2016 07:20
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