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Here's the original thread. It's 80+ pages long and I don't have time go go through the whole thing, but here's a picture of it from space because apparently it stood long enough to make it onto Google Earth.
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Jul 13, 2016 00:15
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| # ? May 18, 2024 04:01 |
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My neighbor is building, something ,in his back yard. From what I can tell nothing has any kind of adhesive or mortar. Notice bottom row of block is sideways. I'm also pretty sure he didn't do any prep under them I think they're right on the dirt. There's some kind of crushed stone near the bottom of the landscape blocks but I don't think he really compacted or anything.
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Jul 13, 2016 00:23
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That's probably a flowerbed, with convenient house foundation drainage.
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Jul 13, 2016 00:44
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Yeah, the outer set of bricks looks like a retaining wall -- they interlock with each other and slope inwards, and just keep all the dirt that's going to go in there from spilling out over the lawn. I can't comment on the cinderblocks, but I think they're really just there so that there isn't dirt (and thus moisture) in direct contact with the house. They don't need to be load-bearing because they won't have any significant amount of force applied to them.
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Jul 13, 2016 00:46
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There's a door that opens onto that thing. Whatever goes there is going to be something a person can walk out onto.
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Jul 13, 2016 00:52
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Never seen a walk-out flower bed?
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Jul 13, 2016 01:00
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Some kind of terrible carport?
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Jul 13, 2016 06:19
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I bet he's going to put a wooden deck on top, or fill it with sand/dirt and then put some pavers on top.
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Jul 13, 2016 06:55
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So the place I'm buying has this barn thing, here's the inside: First thing I'm going to do is have a slab poured so it can start to become a proper shop. I have a question, though, and this seems like a good enough place to ask: that attic space up there, I'd like to make it a proper usable space, is it within spec to hang some joists between those ceiling joists and then floor in the central portion? Or is that construction just not going to be able to vertically support anything in that direction without major rejiggering, and that space is just destined to be nothing more than a glorified attic/high-volume crawlspace? If so, what would it take to make that sort of upgrade safe and code-compliant?
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Jul 13, 2016 17:24
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Bad Munki posted:So the place I'm buying has this barn thing, here's the inside: First: I'm super jealous of that barn. Second: I'm having a hard time parsing the scale on that, but it really looks like the framing of those trusses was designed with exactly that in mind (and that's really why gambrel roofs exist in the first place--to increase available storage space under the roof of a barn). What's the spacing between them? When you say hang some joists between them, do you mean in parallel or perpendicular? It seems like it would be better to run additional joists in parallel so they're supported by the outside walls, but you may have to either sister them up or use LVL so you avoid having to use support columns.
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Jul 13, 2016 18:30
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I haven't checked myself, but the assessor site lists it as 32x26. It's gonna be my new shop, I am super excited about that. And without measuring, and not really taking note at the time, those joists are probably, like, 3' centers? I was figuring on hanging joists between them perpendicular, throwing something like these on the existing joists, y'know? But if that's not the right way to do it, cool. I guess my concern is that I see those plates about midway in from the right on each joist, that butt joint isn't going to provide much vertical strength, I feel like I'd HAVE to sister something on there for any sort of load-bearing strength. Otherwise, at that spot, it's all just hanging from the roof, instead of sitting on the walls. Bad Munki fucked around with this message at 18:47 on Jul 13, 2016 |
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Jul 13, 2016 18:38
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Dig up the building code; it has tables telling you what kind of joist sizing and spacing you need for what kinds of loads. I can't quote a table number at you unfortunately. Note that joists are different from the boards you're talking about adding (which I think would be called "blocking", but I'm not positive). The joist runs from one wall to another, and transfer load to those walls. So you currently have joists on 3' centers, which may be enough for what you plan to do, but if it isn't then you'll need to add more joists in-between them so they're on 18" centers or something (with an appropriate gap where you want to provide access, assuming you don't want to try to squeeze through an 18" hole).
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Jul 13, 2016 18:47
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:assuming you don't want to try to squeeze through an 18" hole).
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Jul 13, 2016 18:52
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Bad Munki posted:I haven't checked myself, but the assessor lists it as 32x26. It's gonna be my new shop, I am super excited about that. And without measuring, and not really taking note at the time, those joists are probably, like, 3' centers? I was figuring on hanging joists between them perpendicular, throwing something like these on the existing joists, y'know? 26' wide? That's pushing it, but I think if you sister 2x12s along each of the existing truss joists and put another two between so you're at 12" centers, you should be okay for a 30 lbs/sq. ft. live load in that attic space. Then just put in blocking in between the joists--you can use the hangars you linked or just toe-nail them in (they won't be supporting any load, just keeping the joists aligned). P.S. if any of the actual engineers in this thread want to correct me, please do. This is just based on my reading of current codes.
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Jul 13, 2016 18:56
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Okay, cool, I think I get it, thanks guys.  This is all just a the spitballing stage right now anyhow, I'm not sure when I'll get a slab in, and then I'll need to put a door on the open bay to seal it up against the outside. THEN the real fun starts.
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Jul 13, 2016 18:58
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Slugworth posted:We've all squeezed our way through worse than that. In fairness, we were smaller at the time. hey dude, some of us have managed to keep our weight down since we started working as people who came from vaginas
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Jul 13, 2016 18:58
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Bad Munki posted:Okay, cool, I think I get it, thanks guys. In all honesty, this stuff isn't hard; I'd recommend just reading the building code. It'll tell you what is considered to be the bare minimum for safety. Like, here's the California residential building code on floors. Scroll down to table R502.3.1 and it'll tell you that for a #1-grade Douglas fir on 24" centers you can span up to 15'7" with a 2x12. It doesn't cover spacing wider than 24", and in fact to get near a 26' span you'd need to step the spacing down to 12" and use select-grade Douglas fir (giving a span of 25'7"). Your existing boards are presumably fine for holding the roof up, but they're in a scenario that isn't covered by the residential building code (which only covers specific common scenarios). Presumably an engineer did the required analysis for the structure to pass inspection. But that means that if you want to modify them into a form that still doesn't conform with the residential code, then you'd need to get an engineer to do the analysis again and make certain you aren't compromising safety. What that's telling me is that you shouldn't assume that converting that upper area into usable space will be straightforward. You may want to consider putting in a load-bearing wall, or a set of posts, that can support the joists mid-span, as that will give you a ton of flexibility. Might even save you money by allowing you to to use shorter, lower-grade joist boards. This is the time to think about that kind of thing, because if you're getting a slab poured, you'll want to put in anchor bolts for the wall.
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Jul 13, 2016 19:12
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:In all honesty, this stuff isn't hard; I'd recommend just reading the building code. Yeah, I'm not too worried about it, I just like to do things right and in a way that when I sell the place some day, I won't have the inspector for the buyer flipping out when he sees a structure full of questionable decisions. I want the work I do to be largely indistinguishable from that of a licensed contractor. And before I do anything, I'll have the whole thing planned out and validated. May be as I look at it further and start to iron out some details that I'll decide it's maybe not worth it and I'll just leave the barn as-is and put a detached garage up by the main house. That's something I'd like to do eventually anyhow, so it may be six of one, half a dozen of the other, in the long run. Once I'm actually on site and can take measurements, then I'll start digging into the appropriate code, so thanks for that link.
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Jul 13, 2016 19:20
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Bad Munki posted:Once I'm actually on site and can take measurements, then I'll start digging into the appropriate code, so thanks for that link. Note that that was specifically the California building code; there may be differences for wherever you are. Still, sounds like you have the right attitude about this project. Good luck!
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Jul 13, 2016 19:36
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:Note that that was specifically the California building code; Yeah, I saw that, but I wasn't going to pester over the jurisdiction. It puts me on the right track either way. 
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Jul 13, 2016 19:37
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Building code isn't going to help you much here. Those are engineered trusses; there are no prescriptive tables, which basically means you can't do anything at all with them unless you have the engineering data to back it up (including sistering joists to them or running joists across them). If you can't get the info for your trusses (hopefully on file with the building permit), you'll have to hire an engineer to tell to you what you can do with them, and how to do what you want.
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Jul 13, 2016 19:44
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I'm okay with that, too. Like I said, if it turns out it's going to be a hassle or major investment just to get it started, I'll skip straight to the other building I have planned and not do crazy stuff with this one.
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Jul 13, 2016 19:58
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Dillbag posted:Here's the original thread. It's 80+ pages long and I don't have time go go through the whole thing, but here's a picture of it from space because apparently it stood long enough to make it onto Google Earth. Apparently it's STILL standing as of 4 months ago. Survived some serious wind storms in the interim. Amazing.
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Jul 14, 2016 03:57
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Youth Decay posted:Apparently it's STILL standing as of 4 months ago. Survived some serious wind storms in the interim. Amazing. It's like the construction equivalent of retard strength. (Can we still say that?) jeremiah johnson posted:My neighbor is building, something ,in his back yard.... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qAkZT_4vL_Y
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Jul 14, 2016 05:37
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mostlygray posted:.22 shells work pretty good in old school car fuse boxes. Plus you get an audible alert when the circuit is overloaded! Elsa posted:I was in a Starbucks this morning and I looked up at the ceiling and walls while waiting for my order. Try it sometime, you'll find some unfinished work. The workmanship in FTFY Nitrox posted:You're right, thank you. And if anyone is wondering, the answer is "because Russia". Have another That looks better than a lot of roads in Dallas. Fewer potholes too. Bad Munki posted:I pray I don't end up posting my new house in here. It seems pretty good and I think the guy tended to hire contractors to do anything at all, and it's new and only had the one owner, but still... My parents are the second owners of their house, and they bought it when it was 5 years old. The attic is full of flying splices that look like they were done when the house was built, and a HVAC "contractor"  replaced the entire system prior to the house being sold. What they really did was go into the heat pump outside, yank all the heat pump wiring out, and stick a new thermostat on the wall that doesn't work with heat pumps. Everything about the HVAC system was original except the thermostat, and some HVAC company had even plastered their sticker all over the system (furnace, outside unit, thermostat, and even on the disconnect switch for the furnace).The only upside to that clusterfuck is at least the furnace is gas, and gas is really cheap here.
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Jul 14, 2016 07:53
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jeremiah johnson posted:My neighbor is building, something ,in his back yard. From what I can tell nothing has any kind of adhesive or mortar. Notice bottom row of block is sideways. I'm also pretty sure he didn't do any prep under them I think they're right on the dirt. There's some kind of crushed stone near the bottom of the landscape blocks but I don't think he really compacted or anything. That -looks- like a french drain at the house edge, but I have no idea what the gently caress he's thinking with the sideways course.
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Jul 15, 2016 03:13
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Letting groundwater drain out from under the house? Ventilation?
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Jul 15, 2016 05:26
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Raccoons?
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Jul 15, 2016 05:41
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i like nice words
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PainterofCrap posted:Letting groundwater drain out from under the house? Ventilation? I feel like it's a misguided attempt at handling water getting between the cinder blocks and the vapor barrier. Very, very misguided.
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Jul 15, 2016 05:49
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A friend of mine has a dishwasher with a broken switch, so he fashioned this up. I have no idea what the train of thought was.
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Jul 15, 2016 09:51
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'I hate my life and want to die'?
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Jul 15, 2016 09:54
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SynthOrange posted:'I hate my life and want to die'? Stick a fork prong in my eye. Wait a moment, I spoke a lie I didn't really intend to die. No hazard sticker or safety lock, I'll pry it open and take a look. Though the panel's sealed and the warnings true I don't heed those words those words I rue. 
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Jul 15, 2016 11:15
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Liquid Communism posted:That -looks- like a french drain at the house edge, but I have no idea what the gently caress he's thinking with the sideways course. He had to put a row sideways so the top would line up with the door.
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Jul 15, 2016 12:34
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They're 8"x8"x16" blocks, so probably not.
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Jul 15, 2016 12:46
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One Legged Ninja posted:They're 8"x8"x16" blocks, so probably not. Had no idea they were square, oh well.
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Jul 15, 2016 12:57
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One Legged Ninja posted:They're 8"x8"x16" blocks, so probably not. Maybe he thinks it will work. Look at the vertical block on the far right.
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Jul 15, 2016 12:59
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Saved in my scrapbook.
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Jul 16, 2016 12:53
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Kitchen/dining in pink...
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Jul 16, 2016 12:54
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jeremiah johnson posted:My neighbor is building, something ,in his back yard. From what I can tell nothing has any kind of adhesive or mortar. Notice bottom row of block is sideways. I'm also pretty sure he didn't do any prep under them I think they're right on the dirt. There's some kind of crushed stone near the bottom of the landscape blocks but I don't think he really compacted or anything. They are going to backfill it and put pavers flush with top row of bricks. It's a common thing to do, why is everyone so confused? Cinderblocks are stacked next to existing wall, that looks to be covered in tar, so no water penetration there. French drain pipe will whisk away any moisture that accumulates, shouldn't be much. There is nothing wrong with that project.
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Jul 16, 2016 19:06
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| # ? May 18, 2024 04:01 |
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The architectural failures thread got goldmined, so I'll drop this here. Le Corbusier works named as UN world heritage sites - http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/world-europe-36820119 Japan is soooo excited to have another World Heritage Site 
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Jul 18, 2016 08:39
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