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ionn posted:Having gone and actually seen the car (drove past the city it's in on my way elsewhere), I can now say it's a combination of good, bad and ugly. For one thing, it's definitely a carb. CARB! And as the guy said, it sort of won't run right. It started and idled fine, but after 4-5 minutes at idle it sputtered and died. It restarts, but I couldn't drive it. More than a little throttle, or no throttle, it dies. I could just drive it a few dozen meters up and down the street, having it stall a few times. Wow, I wasn't actually expecting a carb, that's a bit of a surprise. Oh well, they do work and aren't usually hard to rebuild unless they are completely utterly shagged out. First step is figuring out if it's an OEM carb (if it came with an e-carb new, someone may have rightly gotten pissed at that festering lump of garbage and swapped to a Real Carb, since that's significantly easier than swapping to Real EFI) and if not, figuring out what carb it is. Buy a carb rebuild kit, plus whatever important parts aren't included in the rebuild kit for one reason or another (carb base gasket if not in the kit, accelerator pump if not in the kit, electronic choke actuator if it seems damaged and isn't in the kit, any jets that aren't included, etc.) Then you basically just start by taking copious pictures of how it's installed, unbolt it from the engine, take more pictures of how it's set up including all the fasteners and linkages and stuff. Then take it apart, taking pictures of everything as you go, and clean each part in either a bucket of carb cleaner or a bucket of acetone. When you remove the jets and any other parts that are adjustable, record how far in they were to start with (you can count turns while screwing them in till they bottom out gently) to make your life easier retuning it after cleaning. Take pictures of each gasket as you disassemble it, since there are usually multiple layers of cast aluminum sections with little passages in them and different variants of carbs covered by one carb rebuild kit will sometimes use different gaskets, so you need to figure out which gasket yours requires when putting it back together by comparing to the old one. Once it's all apart and all parts are cleaned, you put it back how it was. That is, assuming it was set up right before and just dirty... having a factory service manual for the truck (and/or a manual for the carb if it was aftermarket) will help in determining if it was just a plugged up nasty dirty OEM configuration, or if someone has mucked about with it and not put it back together properly in the past, at which point you can correct that and it will probably help fix the running issues. It sounds a lot worse than it is. I really dislike carbs, but they aren't all that hard to work on when you have a full rebuild kit and none of the bits are worn excessively. On my sister's truck's carb, the previous owner had rednecked it kinda badly in some cases and the screws holding two of the carb body castings together had worked loose and vibrated for so long that they stripped the threaded holes out completely. Fortunately they were just M6x1.0 bolts so I got an M6x1.0 helicoil kit and fixed it properly.
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Jul 15, 2016 15:54
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PabloBOOM posted:2013 Subaru Forester 2.5x (NA) with about 85k. Oil light came on after 4 hours of my wife driving, but she drove it another half hour to get to me without incident. It goes through about a quart of oil every 1500 or so, and I just topped it off before the trip so I was very concerned. However, just checked the oil and the level is fine. We're about 5 hours from home on "vacation" so this is groovy timing. I seafoamed the oil about 10k ago on a friend's recommendation, but didn't change any oil consumption (not that I was expecting it to on this engine, but hey). Any suggestions on likely culprits? Don't know much about the sump and lines on this... And I'm pretty sure it's a bad idea to drive back across the state if the oil pressure is messed up, but I also don't want to have to go find a garage on vacation. Ungh. So it drove for half an hour with the oil light on and it doesn't either have an oil pan full of bearing bits or sound like a couple of skeletons in a filing cabinet? I'd lean towards bad sender / wiring.
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Jul 15, 2016 22:45
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2003 Suzuki Grand Vitara 4x4 V6. My sister's car had an Identity/Sekurit (same company) anti-theft ignition kill switch operated from a key fob that starts the car when it's within range of the relay under the dash. Well, one fob is long dead and the other is dying and super fickle to start the drat car, and from what very little information about this shady company I found online instructs me to pull the special relay under the dash and replace it with a regular one in order to kill the lovely system and have the car start normally again. The relay I pulled is a standard four pin, but it has no markings as what amperage it is. I threw a 40 amp I had on me in it and it works, but for an ignition/starter relay, should it be 30 amps, a 30/40 amp, or am I fine with the 40 amp relay?
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Jul 16, 2016 22:42
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If the pins are right, a 40A can go anywhere a 30 could. It just can take an extra 10A before welding itself together or catching on fire or whatever the failure mode is. I'm sure normal operation is well under that, since some cars just run full current through the ignition switch.
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Jul 16, 2016 23:25
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Raluek posted:If the pins are right, a 40A can go anywhere a 30 could. It just can take an extra 10A before welding itself together or catching on fire or whatever the failure mode is. I'm sure normal operation is well under that, since some cars just run full current through the ignition switch. Yeah, I was at AutoZone earlier for something unrelated, and the only relay they carried was a universal 40 amp for additions like horns and lights, which happened to be the same relay as the spare I had on me, so I assumed 40 is a somewhat normal amperage. The trick worked and the car starts normally again. I was just paranoid that maybe 40 was too much for ignition wiring, what with the whole catching fire bit. Thanks, dudeinski 
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Jul 16, 2016 23:45
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I've got a seat belt with a sticky retractor. All over the internet are articles about de-crudding and lubricating the assembly once you remove it, but information is sparse on actually getting the thing out, usually glossed over with "find bolts, remove bolts" It's the 89 cougar, not that I've been able to find any info for this model anywhere. I'm dealing with this right here:  The only fastener I can find is that bolt on the left that I've already removed. It's still held on by something I can't even find. tl;dr how the gently caress do I remove that thing
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Jul 17, 2016 00:07
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Good chance that the other end is just a hook or tab that slots into the chassis somehow, unless it feels still bolted down. In which case there is a bolt hiding from you 
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Jul 17, 2016 00:37
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The seat probably has to come out.
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Jul 17, 2016 00:39
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Enourmo posted:If your turkey baster has a real good seal, you can shove it up against the back of the vacuum hose and squeeze. The air will probably just puff out, but if you get a good seal against the vacuum hose as the bulb is expanding and pulling air in, it'll create vacuum in the hose and actuate the valve. Bulb syringes for ears work better than turkey basters, and are just as cheap.
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Jul 17, 2016 05:09
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You Are A Elf posted:I was just paranoid that maybe 40 was too much for ignition wiring, what with the whole catching fire bit. In this case, you're possibly adding some headroom, and really not doing any harm. The relay may even last a bit longer than one specced for 30 amps. Going with electrical components that can handle higher current (not counting protection devices, this really can't be emphasized enough, don't ever ever ever ever replace a fuse or circuit breaker with one that's rated for a higher amperage) is generally fine. It's like going with thicker than necessary wiring on a project - you don't need it, but it's not going to hurt anything.
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Jul 17, 2016 10:04
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Mate of mine has a Mitsi J55 with the 4DR5 engine. He's asking me about blanking off the EGR valve on the theory it should stop any carbon recirculating and potentially give it a small boost as it will only be sucking clean air. I don't know enough about doing such a thing to give him an opinion, anyone come across this before? Benefits/drawbacks?
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Jul 17, 2016 11:20
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some texas redneck posted:In this case, you're possibly adding some headroom, and really not doing any harm. The relay may even last a bit longer than one specced for 30 amps. Good to know, and yeah, I keep all circuit breakers and fuses at OG specs. Just like my cars  Relays are a bit of a gray area for me since I rarely mess with them, but good to know everything's OK.
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Jul 17, 2016 16:23
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Two Finger posted:Mate of mine has a Mitsi J55 with the 4DR5 engine. He's asking me about blanking off the EGR valve on the theory it should stop any carbon recirculating and potentially give it a small boost as it will only be sucking clean air. I don't know enough about doing such a thing to give him an opinion, anyone come across this before? Benefits/drawbacks? He won't gain any power by blocking the EGR. It's just there to reduce emissions (NOx) during idle/cruise, at full throttle the EGR valve will be fully closed. Also, unless he is also replacing/reprogramming the ECU, there's a good chance he'll get an error code and/or badly running engine from blocking the EGR.
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Jul 17, 2016 16:27
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Two Finger posted:Mate of mine has a Mitsi J55 with the 4DR5 engine. He's asking me about blanking off the EGR valve on the theory it should stop any carbon recirculating and potentially give it a small boost as it will only be sucking clean air. I don't know enough about doing such a thing to give him an opinion, anyone come across this before? Benefits/drawbacks? Generally speaking deleting EGR isn't really going to cause a performance increase, the amount of exhaust gas that actually gets recirculated isn't substantial enough to be noticed once eliminated. Also if he just removes it and doesn't have the ability to tune it out the computer will eventually throw a lean condition code since the fuel map will be set up to compensate for the exhaust that gets recirculated, and by eliminating it the A/FR will be thrown off enough for the computer to notice slightly higher oxygen content in the exhaust stream.
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Jul 17, 2016 16:36
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2008 Honda Civic I'm looking at replacing the stock radio in my Civic with a new head unit so I can get navigation and bluetooth calling. I was specifically looking at this unit: http://www.crutchfield.com/p_113DNX693S/Kenwood-Excelon-DNX693S.html?tp=20212 but am open to other suggestions (I like this one since it has a volume knob -- I don't have steering wheel radio controls and I don't want to mess with finding up/down buttons on the panel all the time). I'll admit I've never really done any work on my car before, so I'm not sure how hard a project this is for a beginner. I've seen a few youtube videos that make it look fairly straightforward, but wanted to see what you guys think about the level of difficulty before I jump into this, and if you have any tips or gotchas to be aware of.
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Jul 17, 2016 18:08
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I've been testing my injectors on my 2.0 CDTI Vivaro, they should be around 150(or 160 deepening on who you listen to) to 180 k ohms. When I take readings with a multimeter the reading starts at about 10k ohms, and increases at a slowing pace i.e. at first it increases 1k ohms per second, slowing to 0.1k ohms every 10 seconds after half an hour. The video I looked at online of somebody doing the same test had a steady resistance immediately. Is my multimeter being sketchy or is it just my injectors being knackered? FWIW my readings once it had stabilised somewhat were 130, 160, 150, 147, and seeing as I'm going to have to get a guy round to remove them (they are seized into the block) I'm likely going to replace all four anyway, but I want to make sure I'm diagnosing them correctly first before I spend £500+.
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Jul 17, 2016 18:26
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FPS_Sage posted:2008 Honda Civic The only gotcha is the mounting kits for that generation Civic are a bit more expensive than what you'd see for most cars, since you're replacing the entire panel around the stereo. Even Crutchfield, the company that normally throws in everything you need to install it for free, charges for the install kits. Heavily discounted, but there is a charge (looks like a very modest $10 if you don't have steering wheel controls). But Crutchfield also tends to include excellent installation guides that anybody can follow, so they're definitely a good go-to for your first stereo installation.
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Jul 17, 2016 23:03
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Just picked myself up a 2016 Toyota Tacoma TRD Off Road 4x4 in preparation for a 2000 mile drive (Dallas, TX to Seattle, WA) I have a few questions regarding towing and also curious if anybody has any auto shipping company recommendations. 1) I'm planning on towing a UHaul enclosed trailer either 5x8 or 5x10 and was curious if anybody had any tips for renting and towing these. We just have 1 bedroom worth of stuff that we need to move, the biggest things we have are our memory foam mattresses (which I'll have to figure out how to fold or roll to fit into the trailer) I've already gone over the UHaul youtube videos and my Tacoma's manual on how to hook everything up, I'm just curious about other people's experiences. Especially considering it's such a long drive I'm trying to be as safe as possible. This will be my first time towing something over 1000 pounds but it won't be much more than that so I imagine the Tacoma should be able to handle it well. 2) We're planning on shipping my girlfriend's Prius C, and could use a recommendation for a good auto transport company. Any help here's appreciated too  3) Recommendations for the trip, routes I should take, things I should be aware of. I'm basically trying to prepare us for as much as possible to make the move easier. Thanks AI
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Jul 18, 2016 03:05
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After how many miles should you normally change your transmission fluid or powersteering fluid. I am being told one is dirty and the other one is dark. I don't think it's ever been changed so I wouldn't be surprised. (130,000 miles)
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Jul 18, 2016 06:13
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What would cause a 2006 Subaru Forester XT to have extreemly rough starts after putting gas in? Basically after filling up the tank it needs to crank for a good 10 seconds or so until it's willing to start, and idles so rough it shakes the car. The first time it happened I thought I damaged the engine. After running the engine at ~2K RPM for 10 seconds or so it idles fine again, and when I turn it off and start it up again it's back to normal until the next fillup. Might be related: The car is throwing a code for a minor evap leak, and has for about a year before the rough start issue. I had my mechanic look at it last time, and they did a smoke test but found nothing. He thought it was the gas cap and told me to replace it with an OEM one, even though I already replaced it with an aftermarket one. Didn't make the problem go away, but considering it's mainly an emissions issue I was going to wait until my next oil change to have him take another look.
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Jul 18, 2016 06:53
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Probably related. The fuel filler is connected to the charcoal canister, as is the engine's vacuum system. Maybe when you fill it up you're getting liquid fuel in there and it's running rough until it consumes that extra bit? Maybe someone who knows Subarus can give you the specifics on how that system is run in those cars.
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Jul 18, 2016 06:56
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lol internet. posted:After how many miles should you normally change your transmission fluid or powersteering fluid. I am being told one is dirty and the other one is dark. Transmission fluid usually has a service interval, but since you didn't say what your car is, nobody here knows. At 130k it's safe to say it should've been changed once, possibly twice already. Power steering fluid rarely has an interval, and honestly doesn't ever need to be dealt with aside from "is there enough" for the vast majority of cars.
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Jul 18, 2016 07:17
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IOwnCalculus posted:So it drove for half an hour with the oil light on and it doesn't either have an oil pan full of bearing bits or sound like a couple of skeletons in a filing cabinet? I'd lean towards bad sender / wiring. Belated thanks for this. After talking to my wife some more and driving it around for a day, turns out it was the red oil light, not the yellow. The coolant is at minimum and is in desperate need of a change, she was driving up mountains, the AC was on, and the spark plugs are in need of a change (due to aforementioned oil, I imagine) I think it probably just got too hot working that hard. Hasn't recurred since, including the trip home, so here's hoping isolated incident!
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Jul 18, 2016 19:10
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2003 Honda civic hybrid Same car mentioned earlier with the bad IMA battery. I'd said previously that it drove fine with one caveat, but I figured I should explicitly ask about that caveat to make certain I'm not slowly destroying the engine or something. The specific symptom is that when I'm stopped facing uphill (e.g. at a traffic light) and need to accelerate, I'll get a short distance and then the car will vibrate strongly, unless I let up on the gas for a second at the right time. My gut is saying that the automatic transmission is shifting gears at that point, and failing to do so cleanly if the engine is under heavy load. The vibration will stop on its own after a second or two, but it is pretty noticeable when it happens. I can't tell if it happens at any other time except when accelerating from a stop while facing (a moderately steep) uphill. Any ideas? It's been doing this for years without any apparent other issues, and like I said earlier I've gotten pretty good at minimizing the vibrations by letting up on the gas at the right time.
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Jul 18, 2016 19:17
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Was it on while idling or the whole time? It's entirely possible that a 'loose' engine on a hot day could have the oil thin out enough that the idle pressure triggers the switch, even with nothing actually wrong. If the light was on the entire time for a half hour drive, it still seems to me like the only possible explanation is that the sender / switch is going flaky. The only other explanation is that the pressure really was low enough, at all engine speeds, to trigger the light. But that would mean that somehow the engine survived a half hour of single-digit oil pressure, and we're not talking about a Jeep 4.0.
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Jul 18, 2016 19:18
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IOwnCalculus posted:Was it on while idling or the whole time? It's entirely possible that a 'loose' engine on a hot day could have the oil thin out enough that the idle pressure triggers the switch, even with nothing actually wrong. If the light was on the entire time for a half hour drive, it still seems to me like the only possible explanation is that the sender / switch is going flaky. Whole time, pretty much all highway driving. Interesting to know, now I get to keep an eye on it I guess and see if it was an isolated gremlin.
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Jul 18, 2016 21:07
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2014 Mercedes C300 4Matic Can you mix and match tires between front and the back? I just got a flat up front, and am due for front tires, back were replaced about 6k ago. Not sure about the AWD and whatnot...
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Jul 18, 2016 21:41
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cr0y posted:2014 Mercedes C300 4Matic If it's AWD and similar to Subarus, you will want identical sized tires front and rear. I think tire rack will shave to size for a fee. If they are too dissimilar you can do bad things to the diffs.
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Jul 18, 2016 22:07
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Mercury Ballistic posted:If it's AWD and similar to Subarus, you will want identical sized tires front and rear. I think tire rack will shave to size for a fee. If they are too dissimilar you can do bad things to the diffs. Hmm, thats concerning, CarSense (where i bought it from) put different new tires in the back when they came in low on tread on its first check up (for free). So now the back are brand new(ish) and the front are due for replacement.
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Jul 18, 2016 22:14
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Get them shaved to be sure. Bad juju on hot trips with mismatched tire sizes.
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Jul 18, 2016 22:37
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Geirskogul posted:Get them shaved to be sure. Bad juju on hot trips with mismatched tire sizes. Ok the identical tire wasn't as expensive as I thought. Shaving required for 6k of wear on the rear?
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Jul 18, 2016 22:43
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Have them measured. I would venture that 6k is probably enough distance to wear a bit.
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Jul 18, 2016 22:48
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Mercury Ballistic posted:Have them measured. I would venture that 6k is probably enough distance to wear a bit. Ok this gets trickier, the car has different size tires front and back Front: 225 45 R17 Back: 245 40 R17 Ugh this is a real pain in the rear end without a second car laying around
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Jul 18, 2016 22:52
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cr0y posted:Ok this gets trickier, the car has different size tires front and back Google to the rescue? I have no idea if that's properly authoritative, but it corroborates your current sizes.
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Jul 18, 2016 23:11
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I would ask car sense, and check the user manual. Ideally you would replace all 4 and not worry about it. Obviously that is expensive, but if the vendor who sold you the car put the incorrect wheels on it against the manuals advice, then you may be able to get them to swap em for free. Maybe...
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Jul 18, 2016 23:15
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That does seem to be the factory tire setup, which is bizarre as gently caress to me:code:
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Jul 19, 2016 00:27
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Manual confirms above sizes, cant find a specific entry about replacement tires.
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Jul 19, 2016 01:29
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Probably two open axles with a brake system to simulate awd. I wouldn't worry about it then.
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Jul 19, 2016 01:53
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Christobevii3 posted:Probably two open axles with a brake system to simulate awd. I wouldn't worry about it then.
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Jul 19, 2016 03:56
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Daimler/Chrysler awd = ghetto brake system
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Jul 19, 2016 04:40
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