|
JesusIsTehCool posted:So last night I put on a matte varnish on my game board and maybe didn't put it on thin enough. In some of the areas it could pool it has left a chalky glue type coat. If it dries white, you could use some ethanol on a q-tip and gently dissolve and redistribute it.
|
#
?
Jul 18, 2016 16:50
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 16, 2024 06:59 |
|
|
Speaking of Matte Varnish, can I spray it with impunity over metallics?
|
|
#
?
Jul 18, 2016 17:48
|
|
|
Southern Heel posted:Speaking of Matte Varnish, can I spray it with impunity over metallics? Matte kills the shine of metallics. You can bring it back by painting over the varnish (which is safe to do), and I usually do this via edge highlighting in certain parts rather than going over the entire section again.
|
|
#
?
Jul 18, 2016 18:02
|
|
|
Slimnoid posted:Matte kills the shine of metallics. You can bring it back by painting over the varnish (which is safe to do), and I usually do this via edge highlighting in certain parts rather than going over the entire section again. Couldnt you brush on a layer of gloss?
|
|
#
?
Jul 18, 2016 18:14
|
|
|
Slimnoid posted:Matte kills the shine of metallics. You can bring it back by painting over the varnish (which is safe to do), and I usually do this via edge highlighting in certain parts rather than going over the entire section again. In my experience, the "shine" from metallics is actually the little mica flakes embedded in the paint, which is different from glossy paints: they "shine" because the surface is extremely smooth, allowing for strong specular reflection. While matte varnish will likely modulate the former a bit (indeed, varnishes can "dull" all paints a bit), they're mainly designed to remove the latter - specular reflections. This happens because matte varnishes have crap in them to microscopically add roughness to the surface. However, this won't impact the mica flakes as much, since they don't rely on having a perfectly-smooth surface to "shine". (Of course, some metallic paints might benefit from glossiness too, e.g. if you're painting polished chrome gynoids or something.) As always, this may vary somewhat depending on what varnish you're using. I recommend testing it out on a bit of sprue you painted with your palette to see what happens. Avenging Dentist fucked around with this message at 18:36 on Jul 18, 2016 |
|
#
?
Jul 18, 2016 18:33
|
|
|
Dullcote has dulled the shine a little from my metallics but not enough to make me want to gloss varnish the metallics or repaint the area or whatever. It's pretty minor unless you're doing some kind of display quality stuff or Golden Daemon and you want it to look just so.
|
|
#
?
Jul 18, 2016 19:28
|
|
|
SRM posted:Dullcote has dulled the shine a little from my metallics but not enough to make me want to gloss varnish the metallics or repaint the area or whatever. It's pretty minor unless you're doing some kind of display quality stuff or Golden Daemon and you want it to look just so. I've never tried it, but if it bothered you, I'd probably go over the affected areas with something like Vallejo Metal Medium (which is just transparent medium with mica flakes in it) to get that metallic sheen back. Gloss medium/varnish would probably produce a very different effect.
|
|
#
?
Jul 18, 2016 19:57
|
|
|
I do all my highlights after I varnish. Dullcote kills the luster of my liquid gold paints.
|
|
#
?
Jul 18, 2016 20:58
|
|
|
Nichol posted:Couldnt you brush on a layer of gloss? The shine from gloss is very different from the shine off metallics. Avenging Dentist posted:In my experience, the "shine" from metallics is actually the little mica flakes embedded in the paint, which is different from glossy paints: they "shine" because the surface is extremely smooth, allowing for strong specular reflection. While matte varnish will likely modulate the former a bit (indeed, varnishes can "dull" all paints a bit), they're mainly designed to remove the latter - specular reflections. This happens because matte varnishes have crap in them to microscopically add roughness to the surface. However, this won't impact the mica flakes as much, since they don't rely on having a perfectly-smooth surface to "shine". (Of course, some metallic paints might benefit from glossiness too, e.g. if you're painting polished chrome gynoids or something.) Interesting. I didn't know the "mechanics" of metallic paint at all, so this is pretty cool to know. In my experience--and this is how I varnish pretty much everything nowadays--after glossing a model with Future and then hitting it with Liquitex Matte, the shine of any metallic is very muted if not gone altogether. I'll have to see if there's any way to work around this with different brands.
|
|
#
?
Jul 18, 2016 21:00
|
|
|
Vallejo actually makes a gloss varnish that is specifically for metallics. I haven't tried it though. Anyone tried it?
|
|
#
?
Jul 18, 2016 21:09
|
|
|
Slimnoid posted:The shine from gloss is very different from the shine off metallics. I've been trying to address that lately with a couple of methods: 1) masking over the glossy areas with painters tape or blu-tac, then spraying Liquitex Matte; or 2) matte vanishing and brushing Liquitex Satin back over the areas I want to have a sheen. Obviously this works better for metals that aren't meant to have a high-gloss finish. (I haven't tried this with specialty paints like Vallejo Liquid Gold for several years; I think the last time I varnished those paints was on my Space Hulk termies, back when I had no idea what I was doing. Most of them are still just glossy from the 8mm-thick layer of Future I put on them.) Dr. Gargunza fucked around with this message at 21:16 on Jul 18, 2016 |
|
#
?
Jul 18, 2016 21:14
|
|
|
I think it also depends on how much of a metallic sheen you're trying to get. If you want it to look exactly like when you first put the paint on the mini, then you shouldn't put anything on top, since all varnishes will affect the appearance in some way. That said, I'd also be interested to know how long everyone waits to varnish their miniatures. Cure time for thin coats of acrylic is on the order of "a few days". If you're having trouble with your varnishes producing effects you don't like, try waiting a week after you're finished painting to apply the varnish. I'm not sure it'll actually fix this issue, but varnishing before the paint has fully cured is a good way to gently caress up your model: the trapped moisture can end up bleeding into your varnish and clouding it. I can try some tests myself, but as I've never had a huge issue with varnishing, I'm not sure I'd be the best one to try it out. If someone who has had these issues wants to try it, I'm sure it'd be very useful information for everyone.
|
|
#
?
Jul 18, 2016 21:49
|
|
|
I'm gonna try the metal varnish
|
|
#
?
Jul 18, 2016 21:54
|
|
|
Finished five Fenrisian Wolves to be used for Wood Elf hunting hounds tonight.  Sorry for lovely tablet picture.
|
|
#
?
Jul 18, 2016 21:59
|
|
|
 I don't know anything about painting with nail polish, but this looks like it has a lot of potential.
|
|
#
?
Jul 18, 2016 22:19
|
|
|
Radioactive Toy posted:Yeah, I felt like starting with a Stormtrooper would be good as a first dip in to the hobby since they are really only two colors but they don't seem super easy to work with so far. Oh well, things are turning out OK as a first try besides my primer disaster this morning where some of the troopers' faces ended up as blobs of nothingness. They are currently sitting in some Simple Green so I can try again tomorrow. What I've been doing is just painting the edge of the base red/blue/whatever in sets of three. You could also forego the tutorial and make one set black with red highlights for the stripes and whatnot. I'm pretty sure the ST squad cards for the blister have that scheme, and if not, who cares.
|
|
#
?
Jul 18, 2016 22:21
|
|
|
You can get effects like this with metal polishing powder if you're into that sort of thing: http://www.mvpfigure.com/gundam-model-tutorial/airbrush-tutorial-how-to-create-mirror-chrome-effect-by-nanxnei-studio/. No idea how that responds to varnish, though my guess is that you'd want to use gloss varnish. "Traditional" metallic paints are more of a glitter effect. I think this is how it works: whereas glossy surfaces are microscopically smooth (so the reflected light all bounces back in one direction) and matte surfaces have many microfacets facing different ways* (so the reflected light bounces back every which way), metallic paints have what I'll call "millifacets": small-but-macroscopic facets that each reflect light in a single direction, producing a more discontinuous-looking reflection pattern that results in a glittery sheen. * For the math/graphics folks, they have different surface normals.
|
|
#
?
Jul 18, 2016 22:33
|
|
|
I've got a bunch of the older Space Marine metal bodies - the ones that came with the sprue of arm pairs. I stripped them down, and some of the arms are unusable, due to them having been converted in the distant past to hold different weapons. Has anyone successfully used modern arms on the metal bodies? I really don't want to have to sell these guys on Ebay for like $2 each.
|
|
#
?
Jul 19, 2016 01:48
|
|
|
berzerkmonkey posted:I've got a bunch of the older Space Marine metal bodies - the ones that came with the sprue of arm pairs. I stripped them down, and some of the arms are unusable, due to them having been converted in the distant past to hold different weapons. Has anyone successfully used modern arms on the metal bodies? I really don't want to have to sell these guys on Ebay for like $2 each. They usually work, most generations of tac marine arms are loosely compatible.
|
|
#
?
Jul 19, 2016 02:01
|
|
|
El Estrago Bonito posted:They usually work, most generations of tac marine arms are loosely compatible. Cool. Thanks.
|
|
#
?
Jul 19, 2016 02:08
|
|
|
demota posted:
If you can really get such a fantastic chrome effect from a brush on paint then its a definite buy for me. Re: varnish metallic chat. Am I the only one that likes his metallics dull? I always found shiny metallics imparted a slightly toy-like aspect to the minis. I like mine dulled heavily because realistically, the only metallics which would shine so much (in scale) would be someone's chromed grille.
|
|
#
?
Jul 19, 2016 14:35
|
|
|
Z the IVth posted:Re: varnish metallic chat. Am I the only one that likes his metallics dull? I always found shiny metallics imparted a slightly toy-like aspect to the minis. I like mine dulled heavily because realistically, the only metallics which would shine so much (in scale) would be someone's chromed grille. As an Infinity player, if I can get the above mirror finish on my Nomads' helmets I'm totally gonna make them all neon and DaftPunky as gently caress.
|
|
#
?
Jul 19, 2016 15:01
|
|
|
So I have a metal can of Army Painter Quick shade that I've been effectively sharing with a friend as we paint up a few minis. My question is, is there an easy way to divide up the stuff and put some in a sealable container for him to use so we don't have to keep switching off using it? Wasn't sure if it would clog up in a dropper bottle or something.
|
|
#
?
Jul 19, 2016 18:17
|
|
|
Unzip and Attack posted:So I have a metal can of Army Painter Quick shade that I've been effectively sharing with a friend as we paint up a few minis. My question is, is there an easy way to divide up the stuff and put some in a sealable container for him to use so we don't have to keep switching off using it? Wasn't sure if it would clog up in a dropper bottle or something. Short of that, just dump some into a glass jar and close the lid well. It's a solvent, so don't put it in plastic, or you'll end up with a puddle at some point.
|
|
#
?
Jul 19, 2016 18:39
|
|
|
Im trying to decide on a spot colour or something to add to the model. Here's its current state.  http://lethemonster.blogspot.co.uk/2016/07/imperial-knight-part-2-ii.html I was originally think of a royal, deep red colour but Im not so sure anymore. Something that goes well with the gold edging while offsetting the masses of blue. Cant decide what colour to paint the chest piece either.
|
|
#
?
Jul 19, 2016 22:45
|
|
|
Lethemonster posted:Im trying to decide on a spot colour or something to add to the model. Here's its current state. I want to eat this. Maybe an off white, like VMA Aged White? Otherwise first thing that comes to mind are subsued colors like  and  Also I need some ideas. This dude:  The orange-y gold. What'd work out closer to the feel of that picture, silver covered in clear layers of orange, or a straight up metallic like fulgurite copper?
|
|
#
?
Jul 19, 2016 22:52
|
|
|
Screaming Bell looks like it might work for that, it's a deep red bronze kind of a metal.
|
|
#
?
Jul 20, 2016 07:30
|
|
|
Ok what is going on. I bought some new paint (Battlefront's paint) and it like, doesn't apply to my models. It is acting as if it is super thin, I can see the brush strokes in dry paint and painting it on the model just kind of pushes the paint around rather than applying a coat. The models are plastic and primed. Edit: OK so apparently GW 'primer' isn't actually primer, its just black spraypaint. That may explain why I am experiencing this? Apparently painting with Citadel paints, the paint goes on just fine. So what primer would people recommend? Phi230 fucked around with this message at 15:54 on Jul 20, 2016 |
|
#
?
Jul 20, 2016 15:41
|
|
|
Phi230 posted:Ok what is going on. I bought some new paint (Battlefront's paint) and it like, doesn't apply to my models. It is acting as if it is super thin, I can see the brush strokes in dry paint and painting it on the model just kind of pushes the paint around rather than applying a coat. Krylon flat black or white. Depending on the spray, paint might not adhere - I can't get VMC to adhere to anything I've painted with AP Khaki spray. It's going to suck stripping down all of my Steel Legion again.
|
|
#
?
Jul 20, 2016 16:12
|
|
|
It sounds like your new Battlefront paint might not be mixed enough? You really have to shake the hell out of some of that stuff.
|
|
#
?
Jul 20, 2016 16:17
|
|
|
Yeah I shook the gently caress out of it but it still is like watery when it comes out. I'll try getting some new primer when I'm out at the store today and try that, and try mixing it even more.
|
|
#
?
Jul 20, 2016 16:21
|
|
|
Try putting a piece of sprue in the bottle, or take a toothpick and see if all the pigment has gunked up at the bottom.
|
|
#
?
Jul 20, 2016 16:32
|
|
|
I got the Krylon primer, and mixed the poo poo out of the paint but its still very watery and applies very thin. I can't access the bottle to put a sprue in or check the filament because its a tiny squeeze bottle. I guess I'll just need many coats of this stuff.
|
|
#
?
Jul 20, 2016 18:43
|
|
|
The nozzle of most dropper bottled can pull out if you use pliers, this is not nearly widely known enough.
|
|
#
?
Jul 20, 2016 18:50
|
|
|
Based on pictures, the bottles are pretty much the same as Vallejo and Reaper bottles, both of which are super easy to pop the dropper off and put in an agitator.
|
|
#
?
Jul 20, 2016 19:17
|
|
|
Finished my Mk3 Trollbloods Battlebox: 
|
|
#
?
Jul 20, 2016 19:17
|
|
|
Avenging Dentist posted:Based on pictures, the bottles are pretty much the same as Vallejo and Reaper bottles, both of which are super easy to pop the dropper off and put in an agitator. moths posted:The nozzle of most dropper bottled can pull out if you use pliers, this is not nearly widely known enough. Yeah so I popped it off, scraped the bottom with a hairclip, and put in a piece of sprue and shoot the gently caress out of it. Hopefully this does it. I dunno if it worked yet, because I'm currently stripping my T72s of the poo poo paint job. Its deffo the paint, because I tried some citadel paint on them and it went on perfectly. I really only bought the Battlefront paints because it has more accurate Soviet colors. But if the paint continues to be lovely I'll have to wing it again like I did with my BMPs and Infantry. On a unrelated note how does this look for a base? Waiting for the highlight to dry before I put any flock/rocks/bushes on it, but I intend this scheme to go on all my tree and infantry bases. How does it look? Gonna turn this particular base into a hedge row. 
Phi230 fucked around with this message at 19:53 on Jul 20, 2016 |
|
#
?
Jul 20, 2016 19:42
|
|
|
For what it's worth, I use these beads as agitators. They're hematite (iron oxide), so they won't rust, and they're exactly the right size to fit into dropper bottles. As for primer, you're probably right that it's not the issue, but if you want to try a different primer, I've heard very good things about Tamiya Fine Grey Surface Primer. Grey is apparently the best color of primer when it comes to getting a really smooth coat.
|
|
#
?
Jul 20, 2016 19:47
|
|
|
Avenging Dentist posted:For what it's worth, I use these beads as agitators. They're hematite (iron oxide), so they won't rust, and they're exactly the right size to fit into dropper bottles. As for primer, you're probably right that it's not the issue, but if you want to try a different primer, I've heard very good things about Tamiya Fine Grey Surface Primer. Grey is apparently the best color of primer when it comes to getting a really smooth coat. I actually got a black and grey primer on a BOGO deal today at hobbytown so I'll try one tank grey and one tank black and see how both look. I'm sure neither will look awful but if grey actually makes a difference I'll prime the rest of the T72s grey. Right now I'm just trying to get my paint working and I won't know that for another day. Hope I didn't waste my money on poo poo paint. About the base, I think I made a really good investment with Vallejo pumice as the basing material. Its super fun to work with and it makes a really good earthy texture.
|
|
#
?
Jul 20, 2016 19:54
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 16, 2024 06:59 |
|
|
Fyrbrand posted:Finished my Mk3 Trollbloods Battlebox: Rad
|
|
#
?
Jul 20, 2016 20:17
|
|
