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lwoodio posted:NEMA frame designation. On the manufacturer's website it will probably just say frame. Ahhhh, thank you! e: 56C was the answer. The 106mm on adjacent centers was a red herring, it's actually a 5.875" diameter on centers. Bad Munki fucked around with this message at 21:05 on Jul 10, 2016 |
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Jul 10, 2016 20:32
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Motronic posted:I wouldn't say "very little". Many small motors (think portable generators, mowers, pressure washers) even by reputable brands still often run filterless and need ND. I have a basically new (under a year old) Karcher with a Honda motor that takes 30ND. Ummmm, are you sure that Honda takes ND? I've always filled Honda's in the GX series with regular detergent oil. quote:Recommended Oil: sharkytm fucked around with this message at 01:12 on Jul 11, 2016 |
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Jul 11, 2016 01:08
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sharkytm posted:Ummmm, are you sure that Honda takes ND? I've always filled Honda's in the GX series with regular detergent oil. My own research: quote:Use 4-stroke motor oil that meets Apparently I'm a moron. Sorry, sorry. Change your oil now. I have a lot of old poo poo.
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Jul 11, 2016 03:41
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Motronic posted:My own research:  No worries, I was honestly wondering once you mentioned it.
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Jul 11, 2016 13:57
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Cross posting from the woodworking thread but maybe this is more appropriate here. Has anyone here made MAtthias Wandel's Thickness/Drum Sander plans? If so how is it? Anything you would improve or change? I might start making it this week but modify it like Marius Hornberger has so you can also sand from the top. Without an auto feed the top sanding seems a lot easier to manage. I'm gearing up cutting board production to try and attend some shows in the fall and sanding is my real bottleneck. Drum Sanders retail for crazy amounts. North of 2k new in Canada. Even on Craigslist the cheapest I've seen is $600 or they are absolutely enormous for my small shop and not viable. Here is the best I've found. Having the auto feed might be worth the price though. I might make Matthias' one till I can sell a few boards and then buy a nicer one to really ramp up production.
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Jul 11, 2016 16:13
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I think it's come up in this thread before, but I can't seem to find where. Any thoughts/advice/recommendations on cooling vests?
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Jul 12, 2016 19:37
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BUGS OF SPRING posted:Drum Sanders retail for crazy amounts. North of 2k new in Canada. Being in Canada and wanting a top mount sander have you considered just making a vdrum kit from stockroom supply?
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Jul 13, 2016 00:27
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MrPete posted:Being in Canada and wanting a top mount sander have you considered just making a vdrum kit from stockroom supply? Neat, I had no idea this existed. Thanks! Even if I go the full thickness sander/top mount combo this seems like the best deal. After pricing everything I'm looking at close to these prices anyways to build it. Bearings and flanges are more expensive than I thought they'd be. Though I could probably build a cheaper solution than cast flanges. It looks like Marius went that route in his video. keep it down up there! fucked around with this message at 15:04 on Jul 13, 2016 |
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Jul 13, 2016 15:00
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I have been thinking about picking up a plunge router in the near future, but wanted to check with the group to see if there is a go to router to pick up. I previously owned a Hitachi router with a plunge base that seemed to work okay, but I'm in the mindset that if it's necessary I would rather pick up a quality tool that I can hold onto versus a stop gap tool to save a few bucks. I'm not dedicated to one brand, but I seem to see the Porter Cable, Bosch, and Dewalt routers around quite a bit.
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Jul 13, 2016 18:15
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Those are all good brands. That being said, the hitachi m12 is at a pretty good sweet spot price point and is SUPER popular in the cnc router crowd on account of that combined with a perfectly good construction. I have the hitachi m12 on my cnc table, and a dewalt that I use for non-mounted stuff, they're both good. I imagine the dewalt to be higher quality, but I have never found myself pushing either to the point where I would notice the difference.
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Jul 13, 2016 18:21
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I have an old Makita 3HP Plunge that I use sometimes as a table router on my table saw wing. I apparently didn't lock the lever lock down securely enough (vibrates, obv) and it slipped off and fell 2 1/2 feet to the floor. Bounced, did not crack. 
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Jul 13, 2016 18:50
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I own a Bosch router and the worst thing I can say about it is that it can be a bit finicky to get different bases on/off of it. But it's also the only router I've ever used so I may simply not be aware of what I'm missing. 
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Jul 13, 2016 18:50
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Looks like there's several versions of the m12, are they all good or are they just different sets of extras?
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Jul 13, 2016 19:48
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Are the cheap Harbor Freight soldering irons and rotary tools going to be enough for very occasional use? Maybe 1-2 times a year, if that. I don't do much DIY stuff, but I don't want to keep having to borrow from my more mechanically-inclined friend. If they're going to do it, which of these soldering irons should I get? http://www.harborfreight.com/180-watt-industrial-soldering-gun-61170.html http://www.harborfreight.com/30-Watt-Lightweight-Soldering-Iron-69060.html I'm worried that with the more expensive one with the trigger, it will be harder to get as much precision as with a pen style one.
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Jul 17, 2016 22:53
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22 Eargesplitten posted:Are the cheap Harbor Freight soldering irons and rotary tools going to be enough for very occasional use? Maybe 1-2 times a year, if that. I don't do much DIY stuff, but I don't want to keep having to borrow from my more mechanically-inclined friend. They're for totally different things. The gun is for stained glass or other large scale things where you need a ton of heat on a macro scale. Pen irons are for general electrical work and will work with oh, 6 maybe 8 awg and thinner wire ok. You're probably looking for a pen. I'm sure the HF will work but it may not be fast to heat up / reheat and won't be as stable temp as a higher quality brand. Frankly, I'm just opposed to anything at that price point ($3.99?) even plugging into a wall, but that's just me. Edit: If I was in the market for the cheapest pen to get me through basic tasks irregularly, the lowest I'd probably go would be this 40w kit that comes with a few different tips. https://www.amazon.com/Weller-SP40NKUS-Watt-Soldering-Black/dp/B00B3SG7F0 Sniep fucked around with this message at 23:46 on Jul 17, 2016 |
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Jul 17, 2016 23:07
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Alright, thanks. I guess if the heat is unsteady, the heating of the solder will be inconsistent, and it will be hosed up in some way?
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Jul 18, 2016 00:59
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Avoid a constant-temp pencil iron. They're cheap, but take forever to heat up, and do a lovely job of soldering. If you are doing stained glass, cutting rope, or doing woodburning, the big gun will do OK. For electrical soldering, you want a temperature controlled soldering station. Cheap Tenma irons with a dial on the handle are available for like $20-$30, but a proper station is going to be close to $80-$100. If you can't swing that, there are countless Hakko clones on eBay. Just be sure to buy genuine Hakko tips for them, the Chinese tips are loving awful. Check out the web blog forums for long discussions about beginner soldering irons, including teardowns of cheap EBay units. I run a Hakko FX888-D, which is about $90. Blackjack units from Circuit Specialists are another option. If you're only doing soldering once or twice a year, I'd borrow a good station I'd you can't swing the cash. For rotary tools, the HF ones are junk. Drexel or a used Proxxon is the way to go. Don't do cordless either.
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Jul 18, 2016 01:06
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22 Eargesplitten posted:Alright, thanks. I guess if the heat is unsteady, the heating of the solder will be inconsistent, and it will be hosed up in some way? It will just be frustrating to use. You don't heat solder - you heat what you are soldering and flow the solder into it. A cheap iron may not have the power to do this reliably so you'll never get it to flow. It also may just take forever, which causes you to heat more stuff (radiating outwards from your work area) which can suck a lot in many circumstances.
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Jul 18, 2016 01:08
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Okay. All I've soldered to this point is wiring, so that hasn't been a problem. I can't find a Drexel brand tool, was that an autocorrect of Dremel?
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Jul 18, 2016 02:22
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gently caress, yeah, sorry. Dremel dremel dremel. There, now my phone knows that's a word.
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Jul 18, 2016 03:04
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sharkytm posted:Just be sure to buy genuine Hakko tips for them, the Chinese tips are loving awful I have had great experiences with hakko clone tips. I can only guess that they are fake, they are identical to the real thing except that they cost 2usd/ea
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Jul 18, 2016 13:27
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I saw a youtube video on making concrete counter tops and I thought I kinda liked the look. But I have no intention of replacing my counter tops soon, but I would mind a work bench or desk with a concrete top. Currently, I use a plywood top with two layers of 3/4 (or maybe 1/2) plywood and a sacrificial layer of hardboard on top. Thus far, I haven't damaged anything, and the worst part I think of for a concrete top (besides weighing 400lbs. . .) would be potential damage if I dropped a tool or accidentally started to drill or cut into the top. I suppose I would of course keep the current plywood bench, but is a concrete bench top a bad idea? It certainly would not be my only bench, I think it might be a great top for things like electronic work.
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Jul 18, 2016 13:57
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22 Eargesplitten posted:Are the cheap Harbor Freight soldering irons and rotary tools going to be enough for very occasional use? Maybe 1-2 times a year, if that. I don't do much DIY stuff, but I don't want to keep having to borrow from my more mechanically-inclined friend. I'm going to go against the grain of apparently everyone else and say that yes, the $4 iron is fine for 1-2 times a year usage. I should know, since I've used that one at about that same rate. But I'm not the type of person that says they "abuse" tools like it's some sort of bragging thing and I'd expect to be given weird looks if I told someone they should spend $90 on a station or bother someone to borrow one if it's not their hobby or profession. If you're doing precision work sure, get a Weller for $20. But the last two things I've used the HF piece for were soldering wire to subwoofer terminals and repairing a DC jack on a keyboard. And it was plenty sufficient.
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Jul 18, 2016 14:03
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Crotch Fruit posted:I saw a youtube video on making concrete counter tops and I thought I kinda liked the look. But I have no intention of replacing my counter tops soon, but I would mind a work bench or desk with a concrete top. Currently, I use a plywood top with two layers of 3/4 (or maybe 1/2) plywood and a sacrificial layer of hardboard on top. Thus far, I haven't damaged anything, and the worst part I think of for a concrete top (besides weighing 400lbs. . .) would be potential damage if I dropped a tool or accidentally started to drill or cut into the top. I suppose I would of course keep the current plywood bench, but is a concrete bench top a bad idea? It certainly would not be my only bench, I think it might be a great top for things like electronic work. At my last job they had a concrete counter in the kitchen. It was pretty cool, looked great. Surface was a lot smoother than I expected. One day someone did chip it by hitting it hard enough. They had people come in and somehow fill/buff it so you could barely tell.
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Jul 18, 2016 14:21
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Crotch Fruit posted:I saw a youtube video on making concrete counter tops and I thought I kinda liked the look. But I have no intention of replacing my counter tops soon, but I would mind a work bench or desk with a concrete top. Currently, I use a plywood top with two layers of 3/4 (or maybe 1/2) plywood and a sacrificial layer of hardboard on top. Thus far, I haven't damaged anything, and the worst part I think of for a concrete top (besides weighing 400lbs. . .) would be potential damage if I dropped a tool or accidentally started to drill or cut into the top. I suppose I would of course keep the current plywood bench, but is a concrete bench top a bad idea? It certainly would not be my only bench, I think it might be a great top for things like electronic work. I guess for electronic work it'd be fine, I just can't imagine having a woodworking workbench that doesn't have a sacrificial top layer.
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Jul 18, 2016 14:41
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metallicaeg posted:I'm going to go against the grain of apparently everyone else and say that yes, the $4 iron is fine for 1-2 times a year usage. I should know, since I've used that one at about that same rate. In my opinion, it’s all about what you’re using it for. You can handle speaker wire and DC jacks with a dumb iron (i.e. no temperature regulation) all day every day. But if you need to work on something sensitive (say, replacing a bad electrolytic capacitor), you really want a temperature controlled iron, even if it’s just the once—perhaps especially if it’s just the once, because it’s easier to gently caress a part up with too much heat if you’re inexperienced. Now obviously it usually doesn’t make economic sense to buy a nice iron for a single repair job, but I’d purchase a temperature‐controlled iron for 1–2 things a year if those 1–2 things a year were always something sensitive and I couldn’t borrow a friend’s/employer’s.
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Jul 18, 2016 14:42
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What do you guys like in the way of impact driver bits? I can get a 15 pack of #2 Makita Gold's for like $9 on amazon. Is there a better deal / better product out there? Back story: I'm going to be sinking like 500 tapcons this coming weekend. Did a similar project a year or so ago and was chewing through cheapo #2 bits until i got fed up and grabbed the legit Hitachi impact set that I had... made a huge difference. This time around I want to make sure I have plenty of the good stuff on hand.
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Jul 18, 2016 17:23
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Sointenly posted:What do you guys like in the way of impact driver bits? I can get a 15 pack of #2 Makita Gold's for like $9 on amazon. Is there a better deal / better product out there? I just built a deck not long ago with Makita golds. Granted, they were T20 and not PH2, but I'd genuinely be shocked if they don't hold up for you.
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Jul 18, 2016 17:42
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Sointenly posted:What do you guys like in the way of impact driver bits? I can get a 15 pack of #2 Makita Gold's for like $9 on amazon. Is there a better deal / better product out there? Makita Gold bits are awesome. I started with the Milwaukee Shockwave sets, but the PH2's aren't very well matched to the screw heads. metallicaeg posted:I just built a deck not long ago with Makita golds. Granted, they were T20 and not PH2, but I'd genuinely be shocked if they don't hold up for you. I wish more fasteners took Torx or Robertson, they are both far superior to PH.
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Jul 18, 2016 18:08
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sharkytm posted:Makita Gold bits are awesome. I started with the Milwaukee Shockwave sets, but the PH2's aren't very well matched to the screw heads. Thanks for this, I was considering Milwaukee's also but now I'm pretty well set on the Golds.
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Jul 18, 2016 18:12
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sharkytm posted:Makita Gold bits are awesome. I started with the Milwaukee Shockwave sets, but the PH2's aren't very well matched to the screw heads. Philips head and flathead screws are a pox on civilization. Torx, robertson, hex, whatever, just give me something that won't cam out or derail at a moments' notice.
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Jul 18, 2016 18:15
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I don't get why Phillips are so poo poo. Pozidrive is the same basic + shape, but knocking in 3" PZ wood screws I don't have nearly the same about of trouble as PH.
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Jul 18, 2016 18:44
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Phillips heads cam out so much because they're specifically designed to do so. Torx head best head.
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Jul 18, 2016 20:40
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stubblyhead posted:Phillips heads cam out so much because they're specifically designed to do so. Torx head best head. I tried out a box of those wood screws at home depot that use torx and include the bit. Using them worked so beautifully I wanted to cry.
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Jul 18, 2016 20:47
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You children should appreciate the progress to where there are such things as torx and squarehead. When I was a kid, it was 60/40 common/phillips and that was 10 miles uphill both ways to school in the snow goddammit.
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Jul 18, 2016 21:07
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Sointenly posted:What do you guys like in the way of impact driver bits? I can get a 15 pack of #2 Makita Gold's for like $9 on amazon. Is there a better deal / better product out there? I use these and I've driven a few 25# cases of #2 philips with just a few bits. https://www.amazon.com/Makita-B-31893-Magnetic-Driver-21-Piece/dp/B00CHSVNEU I will never waste my money on the Milwaukee shockwave crap. Burnt up a solid 12pack of them on a 5# box of 2.5" deck screws. the spyder fucked around with this message at 22:04 on Jul 18, 2016 |
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Jul 18, 2016 22:02
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Back in my day, you had to screw your self, we didn't have no Phillip coming by to do the hard work for us. 
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Jul 18, 2016 22:02
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I used this set for a lot of home improvement and in the wood working thread mentioned tree house construction (in itself around 250 screws I think): https://www.amazon.com/Wera-Diamond...mpactor+bit+set Not a single bit broken yet. Only buy torx though, I'm no weird masochist. But the workshop I've inherited has all manner of screws lying scattered around that I'm trying to use up, can't let them go to waste. The bit holder in that set is a bit clumsy though, but it gets the job done. Rnr fucked around with this message at 22:52 on Jul 18, 2016 |
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Jul 18, 2016 22:47
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Mr. Mambold posted:You children should appreciate the progress to where there are such things as torx and squarehead. When I was a kid, it was 60/40 common/phillips and that was 10 miles uphill both ways to school in the snow goddammit. And no impact drivers, no less!
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Jul 19, 2016 00:09
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Mr. Mambold posted:You children should appreciate the progress to where there are such things as torx and squarehead. When I was a kid, it was 60/40 common/phillips and that was 10 miles uphill both ways to school in the snow goddammit.
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Jul 19, 2016 03:36
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