|
22 Eargesplitten posted:Also, is liftoff oversteer a thing for non-rwd cars? Is it just less catastrophic on cars that aren't mid-engine?
|
#
?
Jul 23, 2016 01:13
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 21, 2024 14:24 |
|
|
Uthor posted:Steering lock. It keeps your steering wheel from turning and can get engaged if you turn the wheel with the car off. Wiggling the wheel is sometimes needed to get it to allow you to turn the key. Does that get more sensitive as time goes by? My wife's old car got it so bad that it took me months to be able to get it reliably. It's not so much a wiggle I guess, it's pulling the wheel to a different position and holding it there. E: InitialDave posted:Very much so. If anything, it can be more pronounced on FWD cars due to the lighter back end and the engine braking acting on the front wheels. 22 Eargesplitten fucked around with this message at 03:20 on Jul 23, 2016 |
|
#
?
Jul 23, 2016 01:43
|
|
|
22 Eargesplitten posted:Does that get more sensitive as time goes by? My wife's old car got it so bad that it took me months to be able to get it reliably. It's not so much a wiggle I guess, it's pulling the wheel to a different position and holding it there. It's difficult because the locking mechanism is binding the cylinder, you have to get the torque off of the cylinder by turning the wheel a bit. It's normal.
|
|
#
?
Jul 23, 2016 03:24
|
|
|
I just received my Black Roof Side Rails order (Mopar 68281916AA ) for my Fiat 500x. Unfortunately, there are no instructions in the packaging, and the only link to installation instructions on the site takes you to a login screen. Does anyone have a workaround, or another source of these docs?
|
|
#
?
Jul 23, 2016 05:45
|
|
|
22 Eargesplitten posted:Does that get more sensitive as time goes by? My wife's old car got it so bad that it took me months to be able to get it reliably. It's not so much a wiggle I guess, it's pulling the wheel to a different position and holding it there. My old Saturn had an issue with the cylinder binding up without the wheel even being locked. Turned out the cylinder needed some grease on the outside to stop it because the original grease had worn off.
|
|
#
?
Jul 23, 2016 17:54
|
|
|
I'm thinking about getting the Haynes manual for my Miata, are they still the go-to books for big projects? Has anyone tried their subscription service? I'm curious if you can just use that to download the manual as PDF.
|
|
#
?
Jul 23, 2016 20:42
|
|
|
2005 GMC Yukon Denali XL 6.0L with front and rear air conditioning Problem: A/C blows somewhat cold, but not as cold as expected. Seemed to blow cold enough a month ago I took the truck to CarEx, whom I normally hate going to, but they're the only one's open on Saturday in my town and we're going on a road trip on Monday to Florida to be dumb tourists for a week. gently caress driving in Florida without A/C. Anyway they said that the system was a pound low, but it still was not blowing cold. They also said that they could not detect a leak in the system and that it held good pressure after the refrigerant was added. I did some reading, and apparently the blend door actuators are known to get stuck in these cars. I pulled mine out, and manually adjusted the blend doors to no effect on the A/C side. I checked the HVAC fan, and it's fine. The heat also works fine, and the problem extends to the front and rear systems which makes me think the problem is not the actuators. Also, I found that A/C line after the orifice tube is cold, and the line before the tube is very hot. See the image below for clarification. Also, when the vehicle is shut off I hear a kind of hissing noise coming from the accumulator area. I used the old soapy water trick, and I don't see any sign of a leak. The low pressure service port has some of that dye stuff on it, so they must have injected some ultraviolet dye but I don't have a UV lamp to check for leaks.  Any ideas/help would be greatly appreciated.
|
|
#
?
Jul 24, 2016 01:29
|
|
|
Risket posted:2005 GMC Yukon Denali XL 6.0L with front and rear air conditioning PM me your address. I'll send you my blacklight and glasses. Thats the only way your gonna find a pinhole leak usually. If that is what is causing the issue. Could be a blockage of some sort but i'm not ac certified so I'm just guessing.
|
|
#
?
Jul 24, 2016 01:35
|
|
|
I would love to take you up on your offer, but unfortunately I'm going to be out of town for a week starting on Monday. Thank you very much for offering though! If I can't find a place that can find the leak I may yet take you up on that.
|
|
#
?
Jul 24, 2016 01:41
|
|
|
A pound low with both front and rear ac systems after 11 years is not too far out of line. I suspect something else is wrong.
|
|
#
?
Jul 24, 2016 01:53
|
|
|
kastein posted:A pound low with both front and rear ac systems after 11 years is not too far out of line. I suspect something else is wrong. CarEx did a full recharge, they didn't just stop when the found it was a pound low. Risket fucked around with this message at 02:12 on Jul 24, 2016 |
|
#
?
Jul 24, 2016 02:09
|
|
|
Given smoke testers are $800+, what's the best way for a shadetree mechanic to find vacuum leaks? I've tried spraying carb cleaner, no results, I tried blowing cigar smoke and just got dizzy. Please tell me there's a better way.
|
|
#
?
Jul 24, 2016 06:41
|
|
|
One of those smoke bottles that beekeepers use? Surely those don't cost $800.
|
|
#
?
Jul 24, 2016 08:18
|
|
|
There's the trick where you waft an open but un-lit propane torch around and listen for RPM increases, but I've not had luck with that method.
|
|
#
?
Jul 24, 2016 10:32
|
|
|
spog posted:Anyone here got any experience of LPG systems? I'm a week late to your post, but I do. What is it doing?
|
|
#
?
Jul 24, 2016 11:29
|
|
|
Tomarse posted:I'm a week late to your post, but I do. What is it doing? Oh I missed it too but I also have an LPG system in my car.
|
|
#
?
Jul 24, 2016 12:27
|
|
|
Tomarse posted:I'm a week late to your post, but I do. What is it doing? spankmeister posted:Oh I missed it too but I also have an LPG system in my car. Coo, thanks. Saab 9-3 running a professionally-fitted BRC MY07 system. Been running perfectly for the 12 months I have had it. Past month, it has the intermittant problem of switching back to petrol mode and beeping the error sound (as if the LPG were empty, though the tank was >50% full and the gauge agreed). Happens when I am cruising at 70mph, about 45mins into a long run. Turning the system off/on seems to work, as long as you leave a couple of mins before turning on. Doesn't happen all the time and never at the point when I would expect any weaknesses to show up (not cold, not hard accelerating, not low LPG, not on hottest part of the run). MPG seems to be the same as always. Two possible causes/red herrings 1) It started after i filled up at a place I had never used before and the pump looked lovely. Could be crap going through the system 2) I changed the LPG filter about 500miles before the trouble started. I've just noted that the jubilee clip wasn't as tight as it could be I've just bought a diagnostic cable t see if any fault are logged (nearest garage charges £80 for a codes pull), but I am curious if this problem is one you've come across.
|
|
#
?
Jul 24, 2016 14:17
|
|
|
Krakkles posted:Given smoke testers are $800+, what's the best way for a shadetree mechanic to find vacuum leaks? I've tried spraying carb cleaner, no results, I tried blowing cigar smoke and just got dizzy. Please tell me there's a better way. This: http://www.ebay.com/itm/EVAP-Smoke-...3989725&vxp=mtr Or build one yourself for like $30. I have also used the unlit propane torch method, but that is limited to certain locations/engine bays. If you have a fan running all the time it's probably not going to work. You can also spray carb cleaner around to find larger leaks.
|
|
#
?
Jul 24, 2016 15:40
|
|
|
spog posted:Coo, thanks. Your car runs fine otherwise on LPG? No stutter, hesitation or rough idle or anything? e: you live on the northern hemisphere i.e. it's summer now? Could be temperature related. What's your coolant level like? If the coolant is low, then the evaporator can't stay warm enough to gasify the lpg. spankmeister fucked around with this message at 15:52 on Jul 24, 2016 |
|
#
?
Jul 24, 2016 15:44
|
|
|
spankmeister posted:Your car runs fine otherwise on LPG? No stutter, hesitation or rough idle or anything? Apart from that, running perfectly fine. Idle in gas seems a little rough, but that's probably because it is ticking over slightly lower than on petrol. It's hot here: hottest it has been all year - except the issue has only appeared on the second hottest day and not when it was even hotter. Also appeared when the car was cruising at a cooling speed, not when it during the hottest part of the drive (slow traffic after a fast run). Engine temp gauge shows the exact middle of the gauge, as they tend to do these days. Coolant level is fine. Just got the software working at it doesn't appear to have an error codes logged. EDIT: Seems that it doesn't store error codes by default and I have to enable them.What a stupid design. spog fucked around with this message at 17:00 on Jul 24, 2016 |
|
#
?
Jul 24, 2016 16:55
|
|
|
Ok, so what's the trick/issue with antifreeze and aluminum components? Vehicle is a 2012 Wrangler. I'm getting ready to replace my leaking OE radiator with an aluminum Flex-a-lite, and the clogged heater core with something from rockauto probably (any brands to pick/avoid?). Since I'm already going to be doing copious flushing to try to get rid of as much casting sand may still be in the block as possible, I figure this might be a good time to get away from the hard-to-find and $25/gallon antifreeze Chrysler recommends (Zerex G-05 works but isn't always stocked locally) for the aluminum block & head Pentastar. So what CAN I actually use? This poo poo was a lot simpler 10 years ago.
|
|
#
?
Jul 24, 2016 18:28
|
|
|
If you're ordering parts already, just order some Zerex G05 off of Amazon. It was easier for me than finding it locally since the shops don't stock a lot of it, but it's seemingly always sold out.
|
|
#
?
Jul 24, 2016 20:25
|
|
|
General wheel question: Does anyone apply some kind of anti sneeze compound on their lug nuts?
|
|
#
?
Jul 24, 2016 22:43
|
|
|
I do not but I also live in the gulf of mexico so not the best person to talk to. I think if you lived up north and had steel studs with aluminum lugs it might be a consideration.
|
|
#
?
Jul 24, 2016 22:50
|
|
|
Um... aluminum lug nuts? The gently caress?
|
|
#
?
Jul 24, 2016 22:59
|
|
|
spog posted:Apart from that, running perfectly fine. Idle in gas seems a little rough, but that's probably because it is ticking over slightly lower than on petrol. It could be any number of things like lambda sensor, temperature switch, gas pressure sensor, relay, the actual switch on the dashboard itself. Reading the code will help.
|
|
#
?
Jul 24, 2016 23:00
|
|
|
Three-Phase posted:General wheel question:  ).It fits within the good rule of "everything gets assembled with loctite or anti-seize", so even though I'm in the southwest, it gets it.
|
|
#
?
Jul 24, 2016 23:11
|
|
|
Speaking of anti-seize-ing, does anyone coat their undercarriage and suspension parts with something temporary for winter salt protection? I cant decide if its a stupid idea or not to just coat the gently caress out of my (potential) new cars belly with plastidip or something like that. I know POR-15 is the normal recommendation but its expensive as gently caress and hard to apply. My main goal would be keeping the sway bar link/control arm/shock bolts free of nasty corrosion.
|
|
#
?
Jul 25, 2016 00:05
|
|
|
.
puberty worked me over fucked around with this message at 03:48 on Jan 4, 2020 |
|
#
?
Jul 25, 2016 00:19
|
|
|
Three-Phase posted:General wheel question: I don't, but I use a torque wrench and have had a problem with them being too tight to take off by hand (when someone else touches my wheels is a different story). I do put some where my wheel contacts the hub. That prevents the wheel from getting stuck on and I need at most a gentle kick to pop it off.
|
|
#
?
Jul 25, 2016 00:55
|
|
|
kastein posted:Um... aluminum lug nuts? The gently caress? I can't speak for the US but over here ricers love them because....well I don't know why because. Naturally they're horribly illegal and naturally nobody gives a gently caress. They're often combined with poorly engineered spacers and oversized rims with stretched tyres.
|
|
#
?
Jul 25, 2016 01:02
|
|
|
Senior Funkenstien posted:My old Saturn had an issue with the cylinder binding up without the wheel even being locked. Turned out the cylinder needed some grease on the outside to stop it because the original grease had worn off. Hers was a Saturn too, so maybe that was it. Mine hasn't done it in a day or two with a lot of trips, so maybe I was just accidentally torquing it.
|
|
#
?
Jul 25, 2016 01:05
|
|
|
Slavvy posted:I can't speak for the US but over here ricers love them because....well I don't know why because. Naturally they're horribly illegal and naturally nobody gives a gently caress. They're often combined with poorly engineered spacers and oversized rims with stretched tyres.  Wierd... is it one of those weight reduction things that could be also accomplished by taking a poo poo before driving your car to the meet, or avoiding fast food for a week? Or is it because they look shiny with open end lugnuts?
|
|
#
?
Jul 25, 2016 02:34
|
|
|
Thanks for the heads-up. I think I will use some locite.
|
|
#
?
Jul 25, 2016 02:43
|
|
|
Three-Phase posted:Thanks for the heads-up. I think I will use some locite.
|
|
#
?
Jul 25, 2016 03:26
|
|
|
Motronic posted:This: http://www.ebay.com/itm/EVAP-Smoke-...3989725&vxp=mtr
|
|
#
?
Jul 25, 2016 04:15
|
|
|
Krakkles posted:I just want to make sure what I said wasn't unclear - you should use anti-seize, not loctite. Krakkles posted:Tried the propane method, no results, probably due to the conditions you mention. Found a How-To on making a smoke tester, didn't feel like putting in the effort, spent $89.99. THANK YOU! Three-Phase had better see your first post, otherwise s/he's going to be using the propane method for removing his/her lug nuts.
|
|
#
?
Jul 25, 2016 04:59
|
|
|
The Royal Nonesuch posted:
The ones I've seen more often than not are these, note the spikes are highly illegal in the UK so those get put on there when they're parked up at the local fast food place.  Also note the drift quick release bumper.
|
|
#
?
Jul 25, 2016 08:22
|
|
|
88h88 posted:The ones I've seen more often than not are these, note the spikes are highly illegal in the UK so those get put on there when they're parked up at the local fast food place. I'm pretty sure those brightly anodized 2ner lugnuts you see around are still steel. Those ones don't look aluminum, although I suppose they could be plated with something. But who would make aluminum lug nuts?
|
|
#
?
Jul 25, 2016 09:24
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 21, 2024 14:24 |
|
|
Raluek posted:But who would make aluminum lug nuts? China. And there are a lot of aluminium ones about because of this, mainly sold by these little 'fashion' car brands that sell tees and stickers. Dudes selling them never check materials because why would they? All they see is they can buy in stock from China for little cash and sell them on for a fair whack more in their own country.
|
|
#
?
Jul 25, 2016 09:30
|
|