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To stop cluttering my bus thread with this truck here's its own thread. Bit of backstory for those that missed the bus thread. I bought this fucker in feb to get back and forth to class with a screwed up leg. I wanted a support truck for the bus, which meant mechanical diesel, manual trans, and 4x4. I eventually found this thing and lowballed the guy, he bit and I drove off. Its a 1990 F350 cab/chassis. Dana 60 front. 10.25 rear, 4.10 with LSD. ZF5 5 speed, 7.3 IDI. Its a ex ranch truck, meaning its rouuuugh as all hell cosmetically. PO bought it as a drunk decision and quickly realized old iron is needy as gently caress, unloading it onto me. Pictures! Chekout those racing slick 33s. Onto poo poo that has been done. PO: OIl changed, all filters serviced, 8 new injectors, steering links and TREs replaced, LED exterior lights, 2 new batteries, bullshit CAT gearknob. Me: Heatercore, blower resistor, blower was pulled oil. 26 years of rats nest removed from the heaterbox which was the grossest loving thing on earth. Rewire of the glowplug power circuit, this was a hokey mess of speaker wire. Trashed early 00s cd radio for something weather proof. cluster overhauled, added LED lights. pedal pads replaced, gross carpet removed 33s got tossed out for old 35s. those got tossed out for ex mil 37s. fuel turned down, timing advanced 1* Headlamp dimmer, turn indicators, horn, reverse lamps, abs/cruise delete, and dome lamps fixed. K/N filter was tossed for a paper one, valvecvoer gaskets replaed. Adjusted SCA levels, coolant hoses, fan clutch fix, and belts replaced. King pin bushings. stripped the body moulding off Its all the same, the parts are just bigger. add a core support weld and brace to the list of poo poo that needs welding and bracing. One of the more fun projects on this truck. I refilled the fan clutch using silicone diff oil for RC cars. works great now. From the valvecover replacement. Looks pretty clean inside. Plans for this truck: Overhaul the front driveshaft Rewire the yes. Ford undersized everything and is highly allergic to relays. I've found more melted connectors than not. Front winch goes away for a hydraulic. I'm undecided to put the electric under the bed box, or just have dual PTO hydraulics.... this is probably the best option. New seat in vinyl, vinyl floors too, tint the windows. Canvas top after I rebuild the bedsides. I'm going for a military look. On board air via YORK compressor Electric powered A/C. coolant filter + automatic SCA charge Real fuel filters + Facet Dura-Lift pump. PaS filter + Hydroboost brakes TURBO?! 46" bed height dwarfs all around it. Teaser of the Bussman/Eaton vehicle power distribution center: cursedshitbox fucked around with this message at 19:27 on Feb 5, 2017 |
# ? Jul 17, 2016 17:35 |
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# ? May 27, 2024 02:11 |
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This truck is cool as frig and those 37s look loving perfect on there. I've enjoyed seen the progress on this in the bus thread so I'll be keeping an eye on this one too.
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# ? Jul 17, 2016 21:14 |
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Diesel for lyfe.
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# ? Jul 17, 2016 21:27 |
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How are you thinking of doing the electric AC? Nice truck.
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# ? Jul 18, 2016 02:51 |
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Theres options for low voltage compressors and roof mount applications for off road vehicles without a dedicated spot for a compressor. I'll go this route if I can't create a packaging solution for the engine (likely won't be able to) Originally I was gonna backdate and go over some previously covered projects, but gently caress all that unless you guys wanna see that poo poo. Last weekend came the column/pedal box repair. I'mma start off with this. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SiLCGMf5VcA thats a good idea of what this fucker was like to drive. Pedal box mount, just to the right of the clutch pedal. clutch pedal mounts in single shear, brake pedal is double shear. Normally theres a little nylon bush that rides between the steel shaft and aluminum housing, but like everything else from the 80s, its hosed off. (note the T of the brake pedal in the bottom of the photo) I honestly don't have a lotta pictures, but this a dirty, greasy, fiddly spring trap ridden operation. wheel, nut buster, interior trim. You know its bad when a column that is NINE years older is in cleaner, better shape. Clutch rod/brake pedal pivot is in the foreground, note the heim joint. new column stripped down, cleaned, greased, rekeyed and reassembled. Pedal box rebuilt with new nylons, this little heim joint, clutch switch delete. ***I'm going to turn bushes for this thing outta brass later on and pull the pedal box again for that operation** another view... Teeth from the tilt mechanism on the old column. its an intregal unit and is about 500usd to replace. Mind you the tilt rod function is handled by babbies first rzeppa joint with a single bearing on the steering wheel side. This is unacceptable engineering IMO, hence the deletion of tilt. READY FOR PENETRATION CAPT'N It drives so <3 now. Facet Dura-Lift pump, steel stock and filter mounts ordered...
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# ? Jul 19, 2016 03:16 |
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WTF, why is the clutch master all the way over the gas pedal, did Ford really put the clutch pedal on the left side of the brake and the clutch cylinder on the right side of the brake? I expect these kinds of shenanigans from native-RHD vehicles that have been converted to LHD by their foreign makers for the USDM, but not from Ford.
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# ? Jul 19, 2016 16:07 |
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kastein posted:WTF, why is the clutch master all the way over the gas pedal, did Ford really put the clutch pedal on the left side of the brake and the clutch cylinder on the right side of the brake? I expect these kinds of shenanigans from native-RHD vehicles that have been converted to LHD by their foreign makers for the USDM, but not from Ford. Yep. Concentric shafts in the pedal box.
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# ? Jul 19, 2016 20:38 |
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kastein posted:WTF, why is the clutch master all the way over the gas pedal, did Ford really put the clutch pedal on the left side of the brake and the clutch cylinder on the right side of the brake? I expect these kinds of shenanigans from native-RHD vehicles that have been converted to LHD by their foreign makers for the USDM, but not from Ford. Because ford!!! actually the ECU is located to the left of the clutch master (efi models) and it probably interfered with all the bullshit going on right there. (parking brake bolts to firewall right there too) Truck things! 7525lb as pictured. 675lb in crap. means this pig weighs 6850lb. six thousand eight hundred and fifty motherfucking pounds. jesus bonus tunnel noises: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2PvSVFozeTQ
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# ? Jul 20, 2016 23:20 |
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cursedshitbox posted:six thousand eight hundred and fifty motherfucking pounds. jesus After converting that from moon units, HOLY poo poo. Where is all that weight? Even a Phantom seems anorexic next to that.
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# ? Jul 20, 2016 23:43 |
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a bed made with 1/2" (12.7mm), 3/8,(9.5mm) and 1/4" (6.3mm) plate everywhere. Dana 60 front axle that weighs lolyes. a 1100lb (~500 kilo) diesel engine, and a frame that is .20" (5mm) thick in the C channels. Its the heaviest non-bus vehicle I've ever owned, out of 58 vehicles. It also has a thousand pounds on the phantom, which is hahahaha loving heavy. Actually I should find one to go park by, they're hilariously large cars. E: it'll probably gain another 500-700lb by the time I'm done with it too.
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# ? Jul 21, 2016 00:08 |
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cursedshitbox posted:E: it'll probably gain another 500-700lb by the time I'm done with it too. In that case I see no choice but to turbo the fucker.
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# ? Jul 21, 2016 00:22 |
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37" military tires aren't exactly slim and lightweight either. And that rear axle is probably pushing 300lbs. Steel wheels right? There's nothing lightweight about a 3/4-ton or 1-ton pickup, especially with big tires, bumpers, winch, and steel flatbed. That winch is probably over 100, the front bumper's probably somewhere between 100 and 200. Hell, IIRC F350 rear leaf springs are somewhere around 100lbs each as well.
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# ? Jul 22, 2016 00:13 |
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cursedshitbox posted:bonus tunnel noises: Ahh caldecott tunnel.
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# ? Jul 22, 2016 01:19 |
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Sudo Echo posted:Ahh caldecott tunnel. I brap those bores to death err day :3 kastein posted:37" military tires aren't exactly slim and lightweight either. And that rear axle is probably pushing 300lbs. Steel wheels right? alu centerline wheels or whatever the hell they are. the combo is heavy enough I don't like lifting them, They're drat close to my own weight. D60 at a hair over 500lb. 10.25 is around 400 depending on loadout. I'm also a tard and forgot that my 190lb rear end was in the cab when I scaled it. Not that it really matters, the winch still weighs more. :v speaking of, gently caress putting that guy under the bed. I'd need csb-vibrator-sized cables to run that, annnnd nope. Old headliner. new headliner. slathered some paint on the bed while I was doing touchup on the bus.
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# ? Jul 22, 2016 01:47 |
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Our old 92 F350 dump at work is about 6100, and that's a 2 wheel, 351 truck. It also managed to accidentally gross over 15k a few times.. I never really liked bricknoses until recently. Yours is probably the one that brought me around from the other thread. I can't get over how good the proportions are. It's the rare truck with a flat bed and non-dual axle that actually looks good.
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# ? Jul 22, 2016 02:36 |
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cursedshitbox posted:I brap those bores to death err day :3 drat then you're driving right by me all the time then. If you ever see a nerd waving from an old Subaru don't freak out
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# ? Jul 22, 2016 03:08 |
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Sudo Echo posted:drat then you're driving right by me all the time then. If you ever see a nerd waving from an old Subaru don't freak out Keep an eye out for this thing. Hypnolobster posted:
I think its the bed. Theres something ab out that box.
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# ? Jul 22, 2016 06:15 |
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Today on this old piece of poo poo: Brackets, boogers and bedliner ohmy. Fuel filter/pump bracket. I built this last weekend. Now that my pump arrived, I get to cut this fucker apart and modify it. Gome! Fuse box upper bracket. Makin chickenshit welds. Holy fucknuts ford uses some thin loving steel. yep. chickenshit central. whatever. Its better than having a 4 piece core support. the truck actually drives a bit better now too. E!: I forgot! I fixed the parking brake pedal bracket that broke in half too. got some awesome burns on my arm welding under a dashboard. Onto some paint! Out with the gross seat, and in with a chisel and a hammer. If you'll also note, theres a big rear end plate bolted to the floor. that has to go too. It didnt suck too bad. and while I'm in here, might as well reward myself with a rear end in a top hat view of my big fat tranny. annnd cover back on. I'll fill those holes with chickenshit sometime later. Moving on. Tried to wipe some overspray off with a little acetone and took the paint off the back of the cab. haha oh early 90s paint. whatever! [s] Back to that gently caress ugly core support I made. Lets de-emphasize the fucker. Certainly not my best work, but it appears I'm going to get a lot of practice in the future.... FWIW I'm not very concerned about the epoxy cracks, I'll keep an eye on it. but I don't like seeing sheet crack like that. Lastly! RABS and Cruise controllers removed. For those not-in-the-know RABS: Rear Anti-Lock Brakes. Its an awesome deathtrap of an 80s system that added to the driving experience. I'll do without this system. As for cruise? Its getting a hand throttle like my bus. Truck compared to other common and uncommon road going vehicles. cursedshitbox fucked around with this message at 02:25 on Jul 29, 2016 |
# ? Jul 29, 2016 02:15 |
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Had no idea your monster truck had its own thread. Probably my favorite truck in AI at the momentcursedshitbox posted:Teaser of the Bussman/Eaton vehicle power distribution center: cursedshitbox posted:six thousand eight hundred and fifty motherfucking pounds. jesus
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# ? Jul 29, 2016 11:42 |
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Love how this is coming along
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# ? Jul 29, 2016 19:30 |
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cursedshitbox posted:FWIW I'm not very concerned about the epoxy cracks, I'll keep an eye on it. but I don't like seeing sheet crack like that. Are you going to stop-drill the sheet cracks?
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# ? Jul 29, 2016 19:45 |
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Can this thing tow the bus in an emergency?
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# ? Jul 29, 2016 22:27 |
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Astonishing Wang posted:Can this thing tow the bus in an emergency? Legally, no. but yes it can move it. I intend to put winches front/rear in case the bus gets stuck off road. ehnus posted:Are you going to stop-drill the sheet cracks? Drill, plate, tube, etc. SPOILERS!
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# ? Jul 30, 2016 02:55 |
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Goddam I love this thread. Been away for a while and Im glad the brick got its own thread love. The weight of it is hilarious to me, my 86 GMC dump truck weighs literally less than 1k lbs more than it, 7640.
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# ? Jul 31, 2016 05:43 |
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Moved the coolant reservoir/windshield washer tank to the other fender. (I'll paint the brackets later on) Future home for the fuel filters and fuse panel. Joints greased. so awesome to have zerks on the axle ujoints. I'll need a low-profile tip for these tight fucks. almost ready for install. (also note the lights that are out, drat you PPO and scotch locks) bike popped a headgasket, good thing trucks are. 46" deck height is lol. cursedshitbox fucked around with this message at 18:43 on Aug 6, 2016 |
# ? Aug 6, 2016 18:40 |
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Fuel system installed! This has been the most frustration riddled 3 days of my life ever. I'm so thinking twice before performing major surgery on the DD while the wife needs something to drive to physical therapy and do errands. Theres 9 possibly 10 revisions before this thing played nice with the truck and would evacuate its friggin' airbubbles. the return loop I made leaked like a sieve thanks to amazon ballvalves from china or where ever, it was deleted. optimal way for the system to work is as follows: from tank switching valve 10 micron (red) filter with water separator Fuel pump plus 80 micron sight glass roach catcher. (pump gets power from IP) 2 micron yellow kitty filter (this is where the fuel pressure gauge is, psi/kpa) Air bleed + check valve(I'm doubting this oem check valve still works) that goes to injector return line system Injection pump. return starts at the injection pump, goes through all 8 injectors, then to the tank. Trial and error. Mostly error. 10mic bleeds, 2 mic wouldnt bleed, or vise versa. took 2-3 diesel showers. lotta cuts, burns, and bruises, but the fuckers done and runs properly. God dammit I need a beer. cursedshitbox fucked around with this message at 20:50 on Aug 17, 2016 |
# ? Aug 17, 2016 20:48 |
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Work of art to my eyes.
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# ? Aug 18, 2016 00:24 |
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CommieGIR posted:Work of art to my eyes. hopefully the db2 will be happier with it. I want everything to last. Took a cheap headlight resto kit to the donkey. I hate fogged over lenses, and I'm not quite ready to drop $200 on new housings when there are other maintenance issues to catch up on.
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# ? Aug 18, 2016 01:10 |
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cursedshitbox posted:hopefully the db2 will be happier with it. I want everything to last. Did you seal those with anything?
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# ? Aug 18, 2016 01:50 |
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cursedshitbox posted:hopefully the db2 will be happier with it. I want everything to last. Are you using a lubricity additive in your fuel? Diesel was a lot thicker when these things were made. My '94 idi-t prefers DieselKleen (gray bottle) but anything is better than nothing. Modern ULSD just don't lube up a DB2 proper. Truck is gorgeous! I was gonna do a thread soon about getting mine ready for a 3000mi X-mas voyage but now I'm intimidated.
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# ? Aug 18, 2016 01:51 |
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Seat Safety Switch posted:Did you seal those with anything? Not yet. gonna clear it over with some plastic spraypaint tomorrow ish. digger_smolkin posted:Are you using a lubricity additive in your fuel? Diesel was a lot thicker when these things were made. My '94 idi-t prefers DieselKleen (gray bottle) but anything is better than nothing. Modern ULSD just don't lube up a DB2 proper. I've run dieselkleen through it before. (I have a bottle of diesel purge for it, but my leaky valves assured me that wasnt happening). Generic go-to is 2stroke oil. Make a thread! Need more brick love here
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# ? Aug 18, 2016 01:57 |
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Is that a double fuel filter? I thought you would get super clean diesel direct from the pumps in California? are you expecting it to catch a lot of crud? I can't remember the last time I changed the fuel filter on my landy. I probably should!
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# ? Aug 18, 2016 09:34 |
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When your talking sub .001 clearances on diesel injector pumps, even the poo poo that accumulates on your filler cap and falls into the tank when you open it can absolutely destroy a multiple thousand dollar injector pump. Petrol engines will run on fuel with twigs and rocks in it compared to the sensitivity that diesels have to lumpy fuel.
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# ? Aug 18, 2016 12:47 |
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Tomarse posted:Is that a double fuel filter? I thought you would get super clean diesel direct from the pumps in California? are you expecting it to catch a lot of crud? CA diesel is a cetane of like 53 and is filtered to 10 micron. db2's manual says 85% of 5micron particles. the truck shipped with 15 mic. The smallest amount of trash will destroy that guy in very short order. Its a reman from who knows how long ago. the injectors are new too. The bus just has a single giant 30 micron on it. but it has no injection pump. the injectors themselves are the ip. the fuel pump on it works as the governor too. I'll probably not do much to it other than draining out the 50 or so gallons of old diesel (the truck will eat this poo poo nicely) and boiling out the 125 gallon tank. I don't wish to or ever wish to run exotic fuels in my junk. I've had to unfuck one too many trashed fuel systems because of it...
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# ? Aug 18, 2016 14:16 |
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Man, I really need to get back to my diesel roots
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# ? Aug 18, 2016 15:08 |
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Tons O poo poo done to the truck in the past few days. Starting off with the glowplug wiring. remember when I rewired the power circuit months ago? I've finally gotten around to pulling the old wire outta the loom and fixing connections at the gp controller. haha uhhh. nope. the old supply wires. 160A ran through this garbage. Much nicer. cap back on. Trimmed out a bunch of other wires. no more a/c, fuel heater, water sensors, etc. Onto more fun things! Front driveshaft, Transfercase, front shackle bushings. horror freights biggest stands, and two jacks to lift this pig. F/R bushing. note how the shackle was digging into the frame. Bushings were legitimately the easiest part of the whole operation. Donkey back on all fours. 1/2" higher on driver side, 3/4" higher on passenger side. Transfercase and its auto-oiling system. New slip yoke bushing pressed into the extension housing. 8 tooth drive gear for speedometer, and new output seal (cause the old one got destroyed removing it) Speedometer now reads 7mph fast instead of 10mph slow. I'm happy with this result. new centering ball in front driveshaft. I reused the joints as they had no play, but i managed to split my ujoint C-clamp in two making this job the biggest pain in the dick of the day. I called it quits after this. I was planning to weld some cracks in the exhaust, but fuckit. next time. Between this driveshaft and the craftsman roller jack that didnt have the handle seated well falling on my foot causing all the ows. that said. mannnn this thing drive sooo nice now.
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# ? Sep 5, 2016 01:48 |
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That truck looks awesome. Enjoying the thread. Keep up the good posts.
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# ? Sep 5, 2016 18:35 |
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Failed to mention. noticed 3 or 4 cracks on the bottom of the core support. guess when I go to do a radiator/intercooler or whatever i'll just be pulling the entire core support and essentially overhauling it. yesterday the radio started smoking like crazy for no reason. Its removed and in the trash now. loving nope. I don't know how, or why. but I know there is gonna be two 5lb extinguishers installed asap. nopenopenope.
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# ? Sep 7, 2016 00:13 |
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I saw your pictures of this thing in CA but didn't realize it was an IDI till now. I just assumed 460 but this is so much loving cooler.
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# ? Sep 8, 2016 02:32 |
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# ? May 27, 2024 02:11 |
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Yerok posted:I saw your pictures of this thing in CA but didn't realize it was an IDI till now. I just assumed 460 but this is so much loving cooler. Just a grumpy rear end old diesel. Speaking of! a set of zd-9 beru plugs and removal tools on the way. 2 plugs are dead, i pulled a working one. AUTOFUCKNGLITE. ARRGHHHHHHHHHHHH. (one dead one won't come out. ) anyway. radio caught fire, tossed it. bought a bluetooth stereo amp off ebay for $lol. I don't like cables, own CDs, or listen to broadcast radio, so why buy another headunit? This little guy is good for 50W per channel (at like 6 ohm heh), and has a few mechanical push buttons, can handle 8-24 volts. I may add this functionality to the bus too. Initially I was gonna re-use the steering wheel controls, but seeing as how they're coked all to hell, and new switches cost double the amp, eh fuckit. With the amp going *in* the dash, I need to fill a hole. That'll do. Planning Pyro, Boost, either a dual oil temp gauge(engine/trans), or air pressure. maybe both eventually. little enclosure, removed the switches and plugs. all ready to go in. the sealed connector handles volume/power functions, it has a few open pins for future use. (play, next, previous), the old ford connector handles the speakers. pro-mounted in the dash. (checkout my awesome hole I made next to the volume switch, godfucking dammit. don't blindside drill holes, kids!) Done for now. laptop I bought ehhh 3 weeks ago took an awesome poo poo after a small drop, it'll be parted and fund some gofast poo poo for the truck methinks. I have a lead on a $600 turbo setup.
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# ? Sep 17, 2016 01:28 |