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Where's the B&W home development for dummies post? I'm tired of waiting a week for results. I'd like to do 135, 110, and 4x5. edit: Also, whoever recommended the Pakon for 35mm - it really does give great results, but I'd rather not scour Ebay looking for a 10 year old device that I may or may not be able to get working in a Windows XP VM. Is there something good between "lovely flatbed I already have" and the Pakon? luchadornado fucked around with this message at 14:24 on Jul 30, 2016 |
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Jul 30, 2016 14:17
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I've got some Fujifilm 400h that expired in 2012. I think it's been stored in a fridge all the time but I'm not sure. Do I need to do anything when I shoot and develop this stuff?
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Jul 30, 2016 18:55
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Xabi posted:I've got some Fujifilm 400h that expired in 2012. I think it's been stored in a fridge all the time but I'm not sure. Do I need to do anything when I shoot and develop this stuff? You should be okay shooting it at box speed, if you want to be really cautious shoot it at 320
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Jul 30, 2016 22:57
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Helicity posted:edit: Also, whoever recommended the Pakon for 35mm - it really does give great results, but I'd rather not scour Ebay looking for a 10 year old device that I may or may not be able to get working in a Windows XP VM. Is there something good between "lovely flatbed I already have" and the Pakon? Plustek 8200i
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Jul 31, 2016 01:18
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Hi I'm back after like 4000 posts to say that I want to start getting into medium format film but have never developed at home (anything over 10 rolls and it just makes economic sense to buy a 200 dollar scanner and do it myself). Does anyone have any general tips on either of these?
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Jul 31, 2016 01:21
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Helicity posted:Where's the B&W home development for dummies post? I'm tired of waiting a week for results. I'd like to do 135, 110, and 4x5. https://www.lomography.com/magazine/56919-a-beginners-guide-to-cheap-and-easy-developing-of-black-and-white-film-at-home This is a 'for dummies' writeup. I bet there's something in the process described that a more learned poster will call out, but I used it as a jumping-off point and generally had success with it. Just make sure to use distilled water, at least to mix your chems and for the final rinse. And since I'm still an idiot when it comes to home processing, I have a question of my own. What's the likely cause of this?  (The blown highlight is bleeding out of the frame at the top.) Obviously not noticeable when cropped to the edges of the frame, but does it look like a light leak, or a development process issue?
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Jul 31, 2016 02:55
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SMERSH Mouth posted:https://www.lomography.com/magazine/56919-a-beginners-guide-to-cheap-and-easy-developing-of-black-and-white-film-at-home I get those light leaks frequently when I have a strong light source at the edge of a frame--usually man-made, but I guess depending on your exposure it could be from natural light.
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Jul 31, 2016 03:04
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Helicity posted:Where's the B&W home development for dummies post? I'm tired of waiting a week for results. I'd like to do 135, 110, and 4x5. http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=2864270&userid=83493#post344262317
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Jul 31, 2016 03:29
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Developing b&w at home sounds a lot more intimidating than it actually is. Just stick to a single type of film and a single type of developer. Don't go nuts with the developers. The massive dev chart is your best friend, and I also like an app called develop! that times all of your stuff and also lets you make your own recipes.
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Jul 31, 2016 04:13
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SMERSH Mouth posted:And since I'm still an idiot when it comes to home processing, I have a question of my own. What's the likely cause of this? Yep, it's when you have excessively strong light, it bleeds, possibly by bouncing around inside the film. May also be if the film gate doesn't snug completely up to the film. But you can't entirely avoid bleeds like that on extremely overexposed areas.
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Jul 31, 2016 10:22
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The current state of Fuji's film efforts: http://www.thephoblographer.com/201...m/#.V53rBGP_bMU code:Spedman fucked around with this message at 13:22 on Jul 31, 2016 |
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Jul 31, 2016 13:20
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So I've got in front of me an Olympus Mju II in non-functioning condition I bought with every intention of fixing up. You guys think this is possible or a fool's errand?
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Aug 1, 2016 14:28
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Understanding posted:So I've got in front of me an Olympus Mju II in non-functioning condition I bought with every intention of fixing up. You guys think this is possible or a fool's errand? If it's the zoom lens one, there are a thousand of those around KEH and Ebay and you're probably better off just getting one in working order. If you want to tinker with it and see if you can get it running through, go to town. Do you know what's wrong with it yet?
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Aug 1, 2016 15:54
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Understanding posted:So I've got in front of me an Olympus Mju II in non-functioning condition I bought with every intention of fixing up. You guys think this is possible or a fool's errand? Do you have experience repairing small electronics? Do you already know what needs to be fixed? If the answer to both of those is no, then godspeed you fool.
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Aug 1, 2016 16:38
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it's the 35mm 2.8, and since it's non-responsive with a fresh battery, I had to conclude what ever's wrong with it had to do with power. After I put it back together it had momentary power and would whir a bit for half a second. Unfortunately it looks like this thing took a bad drop while in it's case, since there was a lot of plastic pieces kicking around but the plastic cover is fine. If I go any deeper into this I'll have to accept that i could have it in so many pieces I might not get it back together again. I wont have the time to do real an investigative teardown, and i'll need another multimeter because the cheapie one i own doesn't test continuity. I only bought it for $15, so I'm not broken up about it. I just love the Mjui/Mju ii cameras.
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Aug 1, 2016 16:53
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What kind of lovely conditions would a roll of C41 film have to be kept at to make it emulsify as fast as possible? I bought a roll of Portra 400 from someone at work that was only 4 years expired, and it looks like I went to Hell Boston for the weekend. Everything's super blue with red/yellow spikes that start at the bottom, and 7-8 of my shots came out completely black (randomly scattered, not just in a row). Just wondering at how bad he had to have hosed up.
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Aug 2, 2016 01:59
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Could it be your camera? Are there black frames or just black across the entire neg?
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Aug 2, 2016 05:49
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change my name posted:What kind of lovely conditions would a roll of C41 film have to be kept at to make it emulsify as fast as possible? I bought a roll of Portra 400 from someone at work that was only 4 years expired, and it looks like I went to Hell Boston for the weekend. Everything's super blue with red/yellow spikes that start at the bottom, and 7-8 of my shots came out completely black (randomly scattered, not just in a row). Just wondering at how bad he had to have hosed up. leaving it in the trunk of a car parked in the sun for 3 days while camping during the summer will lead to some very interesting colors.
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Aug 2, 2016 14:26
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Understanding posted:Could it be your camera? Are there black frames or just black across the entire neg? So after asking around my office, the consensus is that my camera leaked somehow (minolta x-700).  Some of the frames are black throughout, including the numbering near the sprockets.
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Aug 2, 2016 14:37
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Light leaks are the devil's work. Especially after you sink hours into sealing and resealing a back only to find out that the problem was caused by a malfunctioning shutter.
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Aug 3, 2016 04:01
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Yesterday I bought an old Praktica LTL because I decided I should shoot more 35mm film (I still prefer medium format, but it's cumbersome to lug around, plus I've hurt my shoulder which doesn't help). Then, after few hours it broke  . Film advance lever got stuck, and while I managed to fix that, shutter speed selector is now acting up.While I could just buy another one, I'm kind of getting sick of crappy East German and Soviet cameras (except my Pentacon Six, because it seems it is one of those few which will last forever). Any recommendations for a good M42 lensmount camera? I'd like to keep using those sweet, sharp CZJ lenses.
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Aug 3, 2016 11:20
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Doctor Bombadil posted:Yesterday I bought an old Praktica LTL because I decided I should shoot more 35mm film (I still prefer medium format, but it's cumbersome to lug around, plus I've hurt my shoulder which doesn't help). Zenit-E. Find a good one and it will last you forever.
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Aug 3, 2016 11:39
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Get a Bessa-R and put soviet LTM lenses on it
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Aug 3, 2016 12:27
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I've been scared to try and mix & match Kiev RF bodies and lenses with Cosina and Nikon RF bodies and lenses, and Russian LTM bodies and lenses with Cosina, Canon, and Leica LTM bodies and lenses. So basically afraid to forge a Third Way between capitalist and communist rangefinders. But it's because I hear that focus accuracy would suffer, due to the two classes having different standard focus calibrations or something. I've been interested in picking up an m42 camera as well. I'm sure a good zenit is reliable, but I really value mirror lock up so my options are apparantly limited to one of the early K-mount cameras with MLU, plus m42 adapter, or (comedy $$$ option) a Bessaflex.
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Aug 3, 2016 15:37
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Pentax 67 has MLU...
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Aug 3, 2016 16:50
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Just getting back into developing my own b&w -- holy gently caress, has hc-110 always been this expensive or did something happen? Almost $100cdn for 1L. I /think/ I remember it being a little more reasonable. Now I wish I hadnt left my unused bottle in a hot garage 3 years ago.
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Aug 6, 2016 15:25
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VelociBacon posted:Pentax 67 has MLU... Some of the Pentax 6x7 ones don't though.
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Aug 6, 2016 16:00
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Martytoof posted:Just getting back into developing my own b&w -- holy gently caress, has hc-110 always been this expensive or did something happen? Almost $100cdn for 1L. It should be about half that, I think; I just bought a bottle last month or so for USD $30. The price has gone up a little but nothing like that.
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Aug 6, 2016 16:09
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I have some brown gunk floating around my jar with d76 in it. the liquid is still clear, but I can't imagine this is good. should I toss it?
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Aug 6, 2016 18:33
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 Untitled by Drew Davis, on Flickr 15 year old Elite Chrome 200. Still able to get something out of it despite the slides being very very pink.
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Aug 6, 2016 19:23
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Okay I found my bottle of HC-110. Expired 2010. May have spent some time in a garage -- hot summers, cold winters. Regardless, I'll run a roll through it. I've been reading that HC doesn't expire easily, but everyone's like "yeah this has been expired a year" or "two".. Not six years and fluctuating temperature like mine. I guess it'll be an adventure.
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Aug 7, 2016 03:48
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Martytoof posted:Okay I found my bottle of HC-110. Expired 2010. May have spent some time in a garage -- hot summers, cold winters. Regardless, I'll run a roll through it. I've been reading that HC doesn't expire easily, but everyone's like "yeah this has been expired a year" or "two".. Not six years and fluctuating temperature like mine. I guess it'll be an adventure. Oxygen will kill it rather than temp fluctuations, if the bottle has been sealed properly and doesn't have any floaters it should be worth a try.
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Aug 7, 2016 08:15
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The color and viscosity also indicates if it's good or not. Like lighter colour and more liquid.
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Aug 7, 2016 09:34
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My rule of thumb for HC-110 has always been if it hasn't broken down enough to leak out of the bottle it's probably fine. I used some 4 year old stuff once.
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Aug 8, 2016 07:37
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Spedman posted:Oxygen will kill it rather than temp fluctuations, if the bottle has been sealed properly and doesn't have any floaters it should be worth a try. Yeah, it hasn't ever been opened that I can tell. I used to use Ilfosol3 and another bottle of HC110 that my friend gave me before I went into my film hiatus, from what I remember I bought this to have a backup once I ran out and just never got around to it. I'll give it a shot. My problem now is that I'm using potentially expired film from bulk stock that was sitting around in the same area as the developer, AND potentially bad developer, so I guess I should buy a few rolls of known-good film so I don't drive myself crazy figuring out which is which. Also all my cameras are full manual and I'll probably gently caress up exposure and spend another day figuring that out. Maybe time to pick up a cheap ME Super with metering.
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Aug 8, 2016 13:17
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So, I really done hosed up with this roll of film and I'm not sure it's worth trying to get it developed, need someone to tell me it's ok/it's not. Basically something went wrong when I tried to remove the film, the film seemed to be caught and I couldn't wind it back into its container. When I tried it would "catch" and I'd have to force it - sounded like it was tearing when I did this so I stopped. The only way I could get the film out in the end was to open up the back of the camera and pull it out by hand, so I got my fingers all over the film and the film is not inside its container, it's rolled around the outside. I did this in a very dark room, but then the rolled up film did get exposed to light briefly afterwards. Does it sound like it's going to pretty much ruined? I feel like not much of the film has actually been exposed to light, but I don't know if me touching it would affect it and also I wonder if the light could just penetrate the whole roll
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Aug 17, 2016 10:35
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Your finger grease won't affect the result too much. It's much harder to say if it has been ruined by light exposure. If you're getting a lab to develop it, maybe ask if they can waive the cost, or give you a reduction, if the entire film happens to be ruined.
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Aug 17, 2016 12:16
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nielsm posted:Your finger grease won't affect the result too much. It's much harder to say if it has been ruined by light exposure. That's what I like about Colonial Photo & Hobby. I brought in that 120 film that the pre-1910 Kodak Brownie hosed up with, along with a test roll I ran through later that day to see if the camera was totally unable to work. They quickly stuffed the rolls into light-tight canisters and checked them both for light exposure, and threw out the test roll for free after I said I didn't want it developed.
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Aug 17, 2016 13:37
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Your fingerprints won't affect things much, I've definitely hosed up getting film onto a reel before and ended up pawing the entire thing with my sweaty hands without ill effect. Light exposure is hard to say but generally when it's happened to me (accidentally opening a camera back or something) it's generally just destroyed a couple of frames, the film rolled up on the spool has been OK. So probably worth trying?
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Aug 17, 2016 13:43
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The worst that will happen is you'll be out $10~, so I would get it developed. My lab doesn't charge me if a roll comes back blank.... not that I've ever done that before 
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Aug 17, 2016 15:33
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