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Enourmo posted:The whole lower opening thermostat thing is just a bandaid tbh. If your engine's producing more heat than the radiator can dump it's gonna overheat, opening the thermostat earlier just makes it take slightly longer to get there. Yeah except I'd it's jammed closed whrn it should be open and not using the radiator. I had an accord where the thermostat failed and i had to gingerly drive it home. In retrospect I should have towed it.
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Aug 1, 2016 20:15
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He's not saying don't replace it, he's saying replacing it with a lower temp thermostat isn't the way to fix it. Replace it with the proper temp.
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Aug 1, 2016 20:15
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In other words, if your fire alarms keep going off, maybe you should look into why your house is on fire, rather than replace the alarms.
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Aug 1, 2016 20:25
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Are modern mazdas as terrible for rusting out as late 90s/early 2000s cars?
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Aug 1, 2016 21:07
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PaintVagrant posted:Are modern mazdas as terrible for rusting out as late 90s/early 2000s cars? Cars as recent as 2008 still have rust issues.
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Aug 1, 2016 21:09
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I'm hoping if I get this noise in front of some more experienced sets of ears, someone might be able to pinpoint the cause. Car is a 2010 Honda Fit sport, L15A/auto trans, approx. 60k miles. Drive belt was replaced last year with no change (needed to be done anyway), no other symptoms and the noise hasn't gotten worse over time. It occurs independently of engine temp or outside temp, and whether the A/C is off or on (this was recorded with the engine hot and the A/C off). An indie mechanic suggested it could be the alternator pulley or an idler pulley, but didn't feel it was worth worrying about. You can hear it best from 0:03 - 0:07 and from 0:37-0:43. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tGyXfUHAu5I
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Aug 1, 2016 21:23
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Temp spike diagnosis: low coolant.  Now to figure out where that much coolant went...
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Aug 2, 2016 00:02
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How difficult/expensive would it be to get this dent fixed? Looking at getting a new used car for the wife and this one looks great outside of the dent, so wondering what I'll be looking at cost wise to fix the dent if it does end up getting purchased.
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Aug 2, 2016 01:28
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I think the "fix" is probably a new tailgate.
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Aug 2, 2016 01:34
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It's repairable. Probably around 1k to 1.2k.
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Aug 2, 2016 01:47
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Ineptus Mechanicus posted:I'm hoping if I get this noise in front of some more experienced sets of ears, someone might be able to pinpoint the cause. Car is a 2010 Honda Fit sport, L15A/auto trans, approx. 60k miles. Drive belt was replaced last year with no change (needed to be done anyway), no other symptoms and the noise hasn't gotten worse over time. It occurs independently of engine temp or outside temp, and whether the A/C is off or on (this was recorded with the engine hot and the A/C off). An indie mechanic suggested it could be the alternator pulley or an idler pulley, but didn't feel it was worth worrying about. Sounds awfully harsh to be a pulley, but not impossible. Should be easy to diagnose anyway, take the belt off and give all of the accessories / pullies a spin by hand. Whatever is making that noise should feel pretty gnarly when you give it a twist.
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Aug 2, 2016 04:07
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I am want to compare notes with anyone here who might also have too many cars. I have a 91 Ford F-250, a 92 Camaro, and a 93 Subaru Loyale. I mostly drive either a 2009 and 2015 Subaru. When I drive my 90's cars a lot I have no problems. But when I let them simply sit, they all lose coolant. I don't live in a particularly hot climate, but it is very dry here. Because we get arctic temperatures here in Wyoming, and because I live at 7500 feet, I run a higher ratio of antifreeze to water. What do you guys think? It seems counterintuitive to me. Sometimes the radiator is down by 1/4 to 1/3 depending on how many months has passed. I never see a puddle. It is almost as if the water in the coolant is evaporating.
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Aug 2, 2016 14:52
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B4Ctom1 posted:I am want to compare notes with anyone here who might also have too many cars. I have a 91 Ford F-250, a 92 Camaro, and a 93 Subaru Loyale. I mostly drive either a 2009 and 2015 Subaru. Head gasket issues?
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Aug 2, 2016 16:15
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B4Ctom1 posted:I am want to compare notes with anyone here who might also have too many cars. I have a 91 Ford F-250, a 92 Camaro, and a 93 Subaru Loyale. I mostly drive either a 2009 and 2015 Subaru. Any hoses with some crusty white poo poo on them? Slow leak + evaporation?
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Aug 2, 2016 16:22
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I have a 92 Ford Ranger with the 4 cylinder 2.3 L engine, and my fuel pump died followed by my timing belt stripping. The mechanic told me there's a chance it's an interference engine and I can't seem to find a straight answer anywhere if that's true of mine. I'm hoping the engine didn't kill itself, does anyone know if I need to be worried about that?
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Aug 3, 2016 00:17
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I don't think any iteration of the Pinto engine was ever an interference engine. Throw a new belt on it.
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Aug 3, 2016 00:30
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^^^^ What IOC said. It's one of the easiest timing belts in the world to do too. The only way it would have been damaged is if it broke at, say, 8000 RPM. Which that engine would only reach if you downshifted into 2nd around 90 mph with a manual transmission.
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Aug 3, 2016 01:26
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Yeah you are ok. To change the fuel pump, undo the front 4 bolts and halfway the rear 2. Then just pry up with a 2x6 and wedge it under the bed. Change the fuel neck while you are in there otherwise you will pour a gallon of gas every time you fill up soon. Don't ask me how i know.
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Aug 3, 2016 01:56
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Time for new tires. Does it matter what kind of tread pattern or tire I get? I have an Accord and I live in LA, no snow and minimal rain. It's MT and so wheelspin while launching on a wet road is the only real going concern.
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Aug 3, 2016 03:14
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spog posted:Head gasket issues? One of them is a 54k truck 460, the other is an older Subaru Boxer. The other has a motor I built. None of them fail the "combustion gases in the coolant" test. PaintVagrant posted:Any hoses with some crusty white poo poo on them? Slow leak + evaporation? I had an 81 GMC beater truck before and a 84 Camaro. The 84 received a few different engines over the years. Both did the same thing if they weren't being driven.
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Aug 3, 2016 03:19
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skooma512 posted:Time for new tires. I remember doing this on my Miata, and it was pretty hilarious how long they lasted. I put 40k on them and couldn't discern any actual wear.
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Aug 3, 2016 04:57
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IOwnCalculus posted:Sounds awfully harsh to be a pulley, but not impossible. Should be easy to diagnose anyway, take the belt off and give all of the accessories / pullies a spin by hand. Whatever is making that noise should feel pretty gnarly when you give it a twist. Thanks, I'll give it a try when it's nicer out
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Aug 3, 2016 11:03
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Christobevii3 posted:Yeah you are ok. To change the fuel pump, undo the front 4 bolts and halfway the rear 2. Then just pry up with a 2x6 and wedge it under the bed. Change the fuel neck while you are in there otherwise you will pour a gallon of gas every time you fill up soon. Don't ask me how i know. Thanks. Big load off my mind. I'll have to make sure the mechanic changes the fuel neck, I never would have thought of that.
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Aug 3, 2016 17:35
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Krakkles posted:Nope. Go on tire rack, search the size, pick the cheapest/highest treadwear tire you feel comfortable with. Are you saying tires literally don't differ in terms of experience between manufacturers or models? I thought checking specific model reviews on tire rack was important.
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Aug 3, 2016 20:01
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Michael Scott posted:Are you saying tires literally don't differ in terms of experience between manufacturers or models? I thought checking specific model reviews on tire rack was important. It's never a bad idea to check reviews, but for this basic use case? I wouldn't personally do more than glance that there wasn't reviews consistently saying "YOU WILL DIE IF YOU ORDER THIS".
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Aug 3, 2016 20:07
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That goes against all I've ever learned when people were telling me "don't cheap-out on things that separate you from the ground, i.e. shoes, bed, tires."
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Aug 3, 2016 20:52
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scuz posted:That goes against all I've ever learned when people were telling me "don't cheap-out on things that separate you from the ground, i.e. shoes, bed, tires." Then again, my last set of tires cost $1400, so ... v  vI apologize if I misunderstood the question, but I took it as "am I going to die if I buy cheap/the wrong tires", to which, the simple answer is no. The more complicated answer is maybe, as it will take longer for your car to stop, it will have less traction in corners or adverse conditions, and they may be less durable in some scenarios.
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Aug 3, 2016 20:58
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If an agm deep cycle battery doesn't explicity have the word "starting" on it, will it overheat/die if I try to start with it?
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Aug 3, 2016 21:02
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No.
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Aug 3, 2016 21:26
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2009 jetta SE 16 inch tires (girlfriend's car) Will any basically any tire work with her Tire Pressure Monitoring System? I'm assuming yes. Was going to get her these: http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires...&autoModClar=SE
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Aug 4, 2016 00:57
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Gumbel2Gumbel posted:Will any basically any tire work with her Tire Pressure Monitoring System? I'm assuming yes. Yes.
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Aug 4, 2016 01:01
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Gumbel2Gumbel posted:2009 jetta SE 16 inch tires (girlfriend's car) I'd give a set of these serious consideration. I put a set on my Focus back in May and I've been really happy with them. Only complaints are they don't stick to the road under hard braking like a summer tire would and they're a bit chirpy at higher temperatures, but otherwise I'm kind of shocked they're all seasons.
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Aug 4, 2016 01:46
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How easy/hard is it for two non-mechanics equipped with only the pdf of a Haynes manual to replace the headlights, mirrors, and maybe a rear window mechanism on a 2002 Alero? Our local pick and pull is having an all you can carry deal on Sunday and if it's reasonable to snag those parts and swap them out, my wife and I would like to do so. We're both about moderately handy and own a basic tool set along with a battery-powered drill/screwdriver set.
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Aug 4, 2016 04:24
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LivesInGrey posted:How easy/hard is it for two non-mechanics equipped with only the pdf of a Haynes manual to replace the headlights, mirrors, and maybe a rear window mechanism on a 2002 Alero? Our local pick and pull is having an all you can carry deal on Sunday and if it's reasonable to snag those parts and swap them out, my wife and I would like to do so. We're both about moderately handy and own a basic tool set along with a battery-powered drill/screwdriver set. You probably won't even need the manual. Just start unbolting poo poo until you have the bits you want. The Haynes will come in handy when you want to install the parts though.
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Aug 4, 2016 04:27
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Don't listen to Rhyno. It is a GM and all the plastic clips will shatter under unclipping. You can do it but expect that.
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Aug 4, 2016 04:32
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LivesInGrey posted:How easy/hard is it for two non-mechanics equipped with only the pdf of a Haynes manual to replace the headlights, mirrors, and maybe a rear window mechanism on a 2002 Alero? Our local pick and pull is having an all you can carry deal on Sunday and if it's reasonable to snag those parts and swap them out, my wife and I would like to do so. We're both about moderately handy and own a basic tool set along with a battery-powered drill/screwdriver set. Absolutely go and have fun taking parts off of junkers - if you can pull everything you want without having to gently caress the donor up too badly, then you will most likely be able to use your newfound knowledge installing it all on your car. That's the beauty of being a noob in a junkyard; cheap parts and carefree learning. If you break everything and find you're out of your league then just laugh and go get lunch. The headlights and mirrors should be super basic once you figure out which trim pieces hide the fasteners. The rear window mechanism will be more involved but you can figure it out... you might want to pick up a cheapo bit set for your drill that has slightly more advanced tips like torx /hex/etc. Something like this. And don't forget your biggest/longest basic-rear end screwdriver for prying duty. Junkyards are fun! The Royal Nonesuch fucked around with this message at 05:08 on Aug 4, 2016 |
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Aug 4, 2016 05:04
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My car battery turns five this month and has been slowly dying, so it's time for retirement. Walmart says these batteries fit my car. Is there any reason not to get the brand that's half as much as all the others? I remember somebody making an effortpost about batteries semi-recently but I couldn't find it with a quick search.
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Aug 4, 2016 05:58
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I have Interstate batteries in both of my cars and have had no issues at all since installation. I ran a WM battery in a previous car and had to replace it in less than a year. Anecdotal but I believe all WM batteries are reconditioned.
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Aug 4, 2016 06:18
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Got my eye on a pretty nice-looking 1985 Nissan 200SX in my price range. I am planning on taking a look, but I was curious if they're expensive cars to keep up. I know a newer Nissan is going to have plenty of parts kicking around, but something older like this, is it decent cost-wise for upkeep, or is it all a bunch of weird crap that's going to cost a bunch?
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Aug 4, 2016 06:42
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Javid posted:My car battery turns five this month and has been slowly dying, so it's time for retirement. Walmart says these batteries fit my car. Is there any reason not to get the brand that's half as much as all the others? IIRC, Its been remanufactured by Johnson Controls, which isn't terrible. My serious advice is to buy the battery with the longest full replacement warranty you can reasonably afford. That warranty is pretty much them telling you how long they expect the battery to last. Most one year batteries are the "I'm strapped for cash and need a battery right the gently caress now" and generally should be treated as such.
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Aug 4, 2016 06:57
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