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Ilor posted:It might just be the model itself. Did you wash it in warm, soapy water first to remove any mold-release residue? I gave it a wash but maybe not thorough enough? Funny thing is I was so n00b on my first few that I didn't wash them after building, but the Chaos Black is still on there tight. I'm building GW models if that matters.
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Aug 3, 2016 18:46
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Shadin posted:I gave it a wash but maybe not thorough enough? Funny thing is I was so n00b on my first few that I didn't wash them after building, but the Chaos Black is still on there tight. I'm building GW models if that matters. There are a lot of variable with spray paint - weather, distance, composition of the model, mold releases on the model, factory paint batch issues, etc. Soak the models in a grease cutter (Simple Green, Super Clean, etc) and scrub them with a toothbrush to remove the bad primer. This should also remove any oils left on the models during the casting process. Do a quick wash and scrub in warm dish-soapy water (I prefer Dawn, since it is specifically made for grease-cutting.) Rinse and let dry overnight. once dry, spray one model and see if you get a repeat of the paint issue - if not, you're golden. If so, you might have a bad batch of paint. EDIT: FYI, Krylon Flat is great for priming and has the benefit of being easier to toss a can when it goes bad, since you've only paid like $4 for it.
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Aug 3, 2016 18:54
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berzerkmonkey posted:There are a lot of variable with spray paint - weather, distance, composition of the model, mold releases on the model, factory paint batch issues, etc. Yep, got the one I did with the paint on primer soaking in Super Clean now, going to try spraying it tonight. Just wanted to make sure this wasn't typical behavior for the Imperial Primer, because the climate I live in is going to make it tough to go out and use the Chaos Black spray in the winter.
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Aug 3, 2016 19:07
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TKIY posted:Quick question. For zenithal priming/highlighting after you fully prime in black do you use white paint or white primer for the rest of the process? I use white primer.
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Aug 3, 2016 19:40
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Is there anything I should keep in mind when painting MDF? Is there anything special I'll need to do to prep it or paint it?
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Aug 3, 2016 22:09
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I recommend using an enamel-based primer. Takes longer to dry, but it'll hold up a lot better than water-based stuff, and reduces the risk of getting weird swelling/surface texture funkiness. MDF is super thirsty.
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Aug 3, 2016 22:22
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selnaric posted:I've done this with some Hormagaunts that I started to paint. Which color(s) did you use to get just the iridescence?
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Aug 5, 2016 04:13
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Shadin posted:Sorry if this has been covered, this is a big thread to dig through. The potted Imperial Primer isn't actually a primer it's a color match for the black spray primer. Just use Rusto 2X flat black primer (not paint and prime). SRM posted:Is there anything I should keep in mind when painting MDF? Is there anything special I'll need to do to prep it or paint it? You need to let the MDF "drink" because other wise it will absorb all the water based paint you use. I'd recommend use a real deal primer like Kilz to stop it from absorbing everything. Otherwise you should do a few coats of primer. El Estrago Bonito fucked around with this message at 05:26 on Aug 5, 2016 |
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Aug 5, 2016 05:21
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I've never had any problems just using regular Rattlecan primer on MDF
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Aug 5, 2016 06:08
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Are there any decent two brush blending tutorials that go decently in depth into WHY things work and don't work? I've been trying my hand at it recently, and it's all kinda coming out crap. Either all the paint gets wicked away and I'm left with basically nothing, or there's an outline ringing where the paint was originally, or sometimes nothing happens at all. I realize it's likely that I'm just missing something very stupid and obvious, but I can't seem to figure out what.
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Aug 5, 2016 19:42
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Are you trying with some slow-dry additive? I haven't been able to get it to work either but I haven't tried since I picked up some slow-dry.
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Aug 5, 2016 19:48
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GoodBee posted:Are you trying with some slow-dry additive? It's the next thing on my list to try. Honestly though, I've been trying to avoid all the additives in general until I get the hang of doing stuff without, but I'm starting to think this might be a situation where I should just do it.
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Aug 6, 2016 06:01
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Dimo ArKacho posted:It's the next thing on my list to try. Honestly though, I've been trying to avoid all the additives in general until I get the hang of doing stuff without, but I'm starting to think this might be a situation where I should just do it. If you want to try out fancy technqiues like blending you need to play with additives. Acrylic paint is pretty much only able to layer when used straight out of the pot with water.
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Aug 6, 2016 12:33
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I had a humidity/temp related tragedy with some Chaos Black spray, and after a few days in Super Clean that stuff still isn't budging. Has anyone had any luck getting this poo poo off or is this one of those learning experiences I keep hearing about?
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Aug 6, 2016 17:37
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I just finished my first imperial tank in over a year, and for once I'm actually pretty pleased with the result. It took me the bulk of two days, in part because for assembly, priming and basecoating I did three at once, but also because I'm a slow painter. Anyway, pictures. (click for huge)  I tried to add some light soot effect on the end of the gun, and I think it ended up pretty good. I am however super pleased about how the window turned out.  I painted the barrels in the back red, as if there's any other logical choice for the contents of the trunk of a giant rolling flamethrower. Any thoughts or glaring issues I should fix/do better for the next ones?
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Aug 6, 2016 18:06
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Z the IVth posted:If you want to try out fancy technqiues like blending you need to play with additives. Acrylic paint is pretty much only able to layer when used straight out of the pot with water.  There are two things we don't have the luxury of when painting toy dolls: oils (unless you go through the hassle) and special paper material. The closest we can get to oils is if we use blending and retarder fluids and because you're painting on hard plastic with only a primer coating, you won't get the niceties of having paint naturally absorbed by the paper to create blends naturally. And water rings form because of how it dries and what happens if you suck up the water in the middle, either intentionally or accidentally.Dimo ArKacho posted:Are there any decent two brush blending tutorials that go decently in depth into WHY things work and don't work? I've been trying my hand at it recently, and it's all kinda coming out crap. Either all the paint gets wicked away and I'm left with basically nothing, or there's an outline ringing where the paint was originally, or sometimes nothing happens at all. I realize it's likely that I'm just missing something very stupid and obvious, but I can't seem to figure out what.
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Aug 6, 2016 18:22
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Z the IVth posted:If you want to try out fancy technqiues like blending you need to play with additives. Acrylic paint is pretty much only able to layer when used straight out of the pot with water. This may be true of craft paints, but hobby paints have enough stuff stuff in them that just adding water is fine. You can use additives if you like them, but they aren't necessary. I'd like to think I get pretty good blends without them, and better painters than me do stupid stuff. Here's a piece by Jessica Rich using just paint + water: 
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Aug 6, 2016 19:03
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Gareth Gobulcoque posted:This may be true of craft paints, but hobby paints have enough stuff stuff in them that just adding water is fine. You can use additives if you like them, but they aren't necessary. I'd like to think I get pretty good blends without them, and better painters than me do stupid stuff. Yep, I agree with this until your taking really weird techniques or airbrushing
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Aug 6, 2016 19:11
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Gareth Gobulcoque posted:This may be true of craft paints, but hobby paints have enough stuff stuff in them that just adding water is fine. You can use additives if you like them, but they aren't necessary. I'd like to think I get pretty good blends without them, and better painters than me do stupid stuff. Paint + water + dish soap at a minimum. If you live in a high humidity environment you can get away without needing to add retarder since your paint doesn't dry instantly. The brand of paint also plays a role since all of them behave differently and you can get away with different things when using different brands. I've found that mixing a cocktail of additives into my diluent mix just makes painting much easier and gives more room for error when it comes to executing blends. No need for this two brush nonsense, I just reload with a second colour and blend directly.
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Aug 6, 2016 20:50
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So would adding a flow aid or retarder make it easier to learn blending or 2 brush blending? I mostly just layer now.
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Aug 6, 2016 21:24
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GoodBee posted:So would adding a flow aid or retarder make it easier to learn blending or 2 brush blending? I mostly just layer now. IMHO flow aid (or dish soap) is just good practice - it stops your paint from pooling into globs. You have every benefit to gain from using it and virtually no drawbacks. Retarder will slow the drying of your paint. While I haven't done TBB myself, everything I've read suggests that the second brush is there just to speed things along, so you apply paint with the first brush then blend it in with the second. With retarder I apply paint with one brush, then clean and reload it with a second shade and blend that in directly. Exactly if you were painting on paper. YMMV though as I started off trained on paper so this is more natural for me.
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Aug 7, 2016 10:29
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Question about metal primers: I know that leaving black primer visible on a model is lovely and obvious but is it the same for metal primers? Got a dickload of Iron Warriors I gotta paint and I'd rather prime in metallic unless it looks lovely.
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Aug 7, 2016 18:56
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I painted up some WarMachine Precursor Knights and Sword Knights for a friend right before a tournament using the Army Painter silver/chain mail primer, GW black wash and just a base coat on the cloth bits/couple of details and I don't think they look lovely. They look fine for tabletop, just kind of unfinished. I'd imagine they'd look perfectly with a little highlight on the metals and cloth and some more details picked out. GoodBee fucked around with this message at 19:22 on Aug 7, 2016 |
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Aug 7, 2016 19:18
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Yeah, my plan was to do washes, highlighting, seal, and do the brown oil wash and white spirits trick. Getting the spray will probably save me enough aggravation to be worth it.
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Aug 7, 2016 19:25
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I need some help  My main color for my current army is Vallejo Filthy brown. On white primer, it looks great - an earthy, subdued yellow. But after washing, it lives up to its name. I've tried three different washes so far - Army Painter Soft Tone, GW Seraphim Sepia, and GW Reikland Fleshshade (pictured). The Fleshshade is actually the one that works best, but it still takes the color down too much for me. On the other hand, washing is such a simple way of defining shadows that I don't want to forgo the step. Can you recommend a wash? Or a technique that I should use? So far I don't dillute my washes, maybe that would help? Also. please ignore the highlights on the example mini, I was trying a new highlight color and it's too bright. 
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Aug 8, 2016 01:28
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Vallejo Model Colour Smoke, diluted with any sort of matte medium (Citadel Lamain Medium as an example) also some Flow-aid may help.
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Aug 8, 2016 01:34
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Holy poo poo I started painting again. Every time I start up again I wonder why I stop. It's so much fun and feels so rewarding to finish something.
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Aug 8, 2016 01:52
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crime fighting hog posted:Holy poo poo I started painting again. You got some sick blends going there but your image is tiny!
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Aug 8, 2016 02:08
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crime fighting hog posted:Holy poo poo I started painting again. And holy poo poo you knocked it out of the park. The blending on that flag is gorgeous.
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Aug 8, 2016 02:10
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Z the IVth posted:You got some sick blends going there but your image is tiny! Here's a higher res. Sorry. Imgur has changed A LOT since I last used it.   SRM posted:And holy poo poo you knocked it out of the park. The blending on that flag is gorgeous. Thank you so much. Airbrushing is still such a "holy poo poo hope this ratio is right" situation so I'm really glad when it went well. I've got about 10 more big robot guys coming down the pipe, hope to keep the magic alive!
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Aug 8, 2016 03:38
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Hey guys - best way to strip resin? I'm frankly unhappy with my Vulkan model now that I've progressed with airbrushes. How do I strip most of the paint off without wrecking the detail?
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Aug 8, 2016 10:45
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If I recall, Simple Green does just fine on resin as it does on plastic.
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Aug 8, 2016 15:02
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Purple power is the stronger formula and just as resin safe. Tends to be in the automotive section of Wal-mart and the like, but sometimes only as a whole gallon jug.
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Aug 8, 2016 15:32
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Never worry about buying too much Simple Green. There are plenty of uses for it and I find myself running out of it too quickly.
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Aug 8, 2016 15:40
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I ran out of floor cleaner, and used my Purple Power. It didnt smell as nice as Mr. Clean, but it worked!
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Aug 8, 2016 15:59
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I'm UK based, any alternatives you'd recommend?
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Aug 8, 2016 16:14
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Lord Twisted posted:I'm UK based, any alternatives you'd recommend? Dettol or Fairy Power Spray are what I think the UK goons recommend. As a side note, I got some HDX citrus degreaser from Home Depot, and it is amazing for removing grease (I used it on my kitchen tiles.) I'm going to test it out on some minis and report back - if nothing else, my models will have an overpowering orange-ish scent! berzerkmonkey fucked around with this message at 16:44 on Aug 8, 2016 |
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Aug 8, 2016 16:42
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berzerkmonkey posted:Dettol or Fairy Power Spray are what I think the UK goons recommend. I've been using LA's Totally Awesome Orange Degreaser for stripping models and it works really, really good. Usually takes less than 24 hours for it to strip most of the paint off.
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Aug 8, 2016 17:02
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berzerkmonkey posted:Dettol or Fairy Power Spray are what I think the UK goons recommend. Cheers mate. I'll get some power spray and a toothbrush and give the big V a bath. I'm just unhappy now that I've got great results airbrushing - he's too much of an iconic model to have a second rate paint job!
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Aug 8, 2016 17:05
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You guys using an ultrasonic cleaner at all? Bought a fairly entry level one off Amazon and it's been working wonders with some diluted simple green
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Aug 8, 2016 17:15
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