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Is this beam in the garage likely to be solid inside such that I can screw those huge fuckoff bike hooks or a canoe lift to any of the three faces and be able to get "when screwed into solid wood" capacity? Not sure if it's like an engineered wood beam or if they put I-beam stuff in residential. It spans a 2-car garage with a bathroom above, was built in 94 and measures 8x17.
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Aug 5, 2016 13:03
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Feenix posted:So I have a garage I'm starting to improve in a house that we bought about 7 months ago. Nothing major, I'm no pro... Just trying to make the most impact in the least strokes. No, I built something similar for my son's play area when he was a kid - plywood sheet, 2-locking folding struts, and 2-pices if 1x1. For your application I would use 2x4s and find the heaviest locking struts that you can find. Using chain is also a good idea if you don't mid not using the sides/corners.
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Aug 5, 2016 13:40
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uwaeve posted:Is this beam in the garage likely to be solid inside such that I can screw those huge fuckoff bike hooks or a canoe lift to any of the three faces and be able to get "when screwed into solid wood" capacity? Not sure if it's like an engineered wood beam or if they put I-beam stuff in residential. It spans a 2-car garage with a bathroom above, was built in 94 and measures 8x17. It's probably a solid beam, though it could be sistered joists I guess (which could be problematic for your hook). You could always try drilling through the side of it to rule out if its a TJI joist. Even if it's sistered, putting the hook in through the side should be ok. Also, I have seen steel beams used in residential construction where the span has to be exceptionally long. But you'll figure out if it's that pretty quickly. Flash Gordon Ramsay fucked around with this message at 14:41 on Aug 5, 2016 |
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Aug 5, 2016 14:22
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My 45' wide brick/block home had a steel I beam running the width of the house and through the attached garage. Whatever that is worth, it was built in 1958.
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Aug 5, 2016 14:39
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Stupid fire pit question: if I'm surrounding a 10ga fire pit liner with some sort of brick, can I use the cheap concrete brick around the liner without refractory brick on the inside? Since the hearth is going to be 10" deep, I'd like the bricks to act as a radiating mass, but am not certain of their longevity when the liner and a thin air gap would fashion as the only buffer.
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Aug 5, 2016 14:56
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I am working on putting in a bathroom in my basement. I have a clean out set into the concrete that I'd like to cover with something that I can remove when needed to access the area. My plan has been to pour leveling concrete over the area and then tile it. Any thoughts on how I should deal with this corner? I've found a lot of options on line for decorative and functional covers but I'm struggling to know how to incorporate it into the rest of the project - do I pour the concrete, put down the cover, and tile around it? Do I tile first and then try and put it over the tile? Seems like a basic question but for some reason I can't find a good answer. Any help would be appreciated!
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Aug 5, 2016 15:23
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kid sinister posted:Why not hang the front part from chains attached to the wall above? No legs to deal with, you'd just need a latch to keep the table up while you're not working. I suppose you'd have to deal with a maximum weight though that your table could hold. The same goes for your original leg idea, at least at the hinge-supported side. I think I want to do pegboard or rail shelving/modular shelving above. So flipping up is likely not an option if I want to do that.
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Aug 5, 2016 15:39
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Our central A/C unit wasn't cooling below ~75 for a a month or so, and froze up during a party despite good airflow. Tech came out this morning and found it was low on refrigerant -- about 2.5lbs out of 5 or so low. Unfortunately, it's R22, so finding and repairing a leak is probably not the best course of action. Which means replacing the unit. How the hell do I navigate the different manufacturers and models of A/C units to figure out what's going to be a good value, reliable, etc?
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Aug 5, 2016 16:36
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dakana posted:Which means replacing the unit. How the hell do I navigate the different manufacturers and models of A/C units to figure out what's going to be a good value, reliable, etc? You don't. You focus on finding a good HVAC company. Good companies won't install poo poo units. And poo poo companies that install good units will still gently caress them up and make them run like poo poo units.
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Aug 5, 2016 16:39
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Feenix posted:I think I want to do pegboard or rail shelving/modular shelving above. So flipping up is likely not an option if I want to do that. If the hinges you buy can handle the weight of whatever it is you want to put on the table, and you screw them securely into the studs in your wall, this is a good idea and you should do it.
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Aug 5, 2016 16:56
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Safety Dance posted:If the hinges you buy can handle the weight of whatever it is you want to put on the table, and you screw them securely into the studs in your wall, this is a good idea and you should do it. I will use hardcore hinges and good legs. 
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Aug 5, 2016 17:25
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Feenix posted:So I have a garage I'm starting to improve in a house that we bought about 7 months ago. Nothing major, I'm no pro... Just trying to make the most impact in the least strokes. Whats up garage improving buddy, I was looking to do something similar (yes it's a great idea). If the price is right, there's something like this at Home Depot I'd looked at as well. I'm on the fence about DIY vs. something like this at the moment. I'm betting McMaster-Carr or even Amazon would have similar lockable folding braces if you wanted to figure out the hinges and bench surface yourself, but I'm not one of those people that knows how to find that poo poo quick. One other thing I realized (as you may have) is that if you throw a 2 or 3' deep table there, you're not going to be able to reach as high on the pegboard with the table deployed as you are with it stowed. I'm also trying to figure out how high to mount it so I can stand and work as well as get a rolling shop chair or something. I'm short but it seems from poking around I want it sort of on the high side (more like assembly/cleaning/smaller type work than big or heavy stuff on and off it). Sources mention 36" for workbenches but I stood and sat at some that were at like 42" high and it seemed more natural I guess. Edit: also lighting...against the wall in the garage I cast a shadow on any bench I'm going to put in so if you drop a fluorescent fixture over it, depending on how bright you want the workbench it could also limit your pegboard. I'm only mentioning it because I had grand plans for a really high pegboard or tracks until I realized I can't reach poo poo with the table out and I'm going to want a light over it. uwaeve fucked around with this message at 18:36 on Aug 5, 2016 |
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Aug 5, 2016 18:33
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I'm a strong proponent of work surfaces being around elbow-high, and getting a tall rolling chair or a tall stool for sitting when you feel like sitting.
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Aug 5, 2016 19:07
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All good points. I'm several inches over six feet so I'll be able to reach stuff but I'll be sure not to plan poorly. And definitely on the lights. I hate that if you look towards any wall while being near it, you're blocking the lights from the center of the garage. [Ed] also that prefab surface us nice but I'll bet you dollars to donuts I can build a nice (basic) one for under $100... Feenix fucked around with this message at 06:09 on Aug 6, 2016 |
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Aug 6, 2016 06:07
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New house has some door-less wall cabinets in the garage with some odd mortis cuts for what I assume used to be hinges. Anyone ever seen anything like this? http://imgur.com/gLf4Clf
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Aug 6, 2016 19:10
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Mortise. And no, that's very "interesting" and doesn't seem to have any holes corresponding to some mystery hinge that would fit in there. Discard.
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Aug 7, 2016 00:14
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Yeah, I'm not particularly interested in replacing the doors, they're just so strange to me, it's gonna bug me forever.
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Aug 7, 2016 02:44
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Shopping for a new refrigerator, is there a current conventional wisdom about which brands to favor/avoid or is it more model specific?
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Aug 7, 2016 18:39
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Subterfrugal posted:Shopping for a new refrigerator, is there a current conventional wisdom about which brands to favor/avoid or is it more model specific? My attitude on this kind of thing is to get a subscription to Consumer Reports. It doesn't cost much and their analyses are a lot more helpful than free reviews IME.
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Aug 7, 2016 18:49
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I would partially counter that recommendation; the past several times I've chosen products based on Consumer Reports recommendations I haven't been particularly satisfied with what I got. IMO, with a lot of the things they test with a relatively shallow understanding/testing setup, so they miss the more subtle things, and they don't always give enough info in their writeups of individual products to know how things will work in your personal circumstances. It's still better than nothing, but I feel like I get better recommendations from sites dedicated to the thing that I need than I do from Consumer Reports.
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Aug 8, 2016 01:45
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I haven't bought many appliances, but when we needed a new dishwasher last year we went with the top-rated one from Home Depot, 4 1/2 stars with over 5000 reviews. Decide what features are must-have, what would be nice, and see if you can find something with huge numbers of good reviews.
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Aug 8, 2016 02:32
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Subterfrugal posted:Shopping for a new refrigerator, is there a current conventional wisdom about which brands to favor/avoid or is it more model specific? Unsurprisingly, The Sweet Home has opinions: http://m.thesweethome.com/reviews/the-best-refrigerator/
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Aug 8, 2016 02:33
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I like Consumer Reports for a few things:
I wouldn't purchase something based solely on CR's say so, but they make the research phase of making a major purchase a hell of a lot more streamlined, compared to reading a bunch of different reviews of different items written by different people and trying to come up with a comparison of those items based on said reviews. In other words, use CR to come up with a top-3 (or top-5) list, then go to more detailed reviews for those specific items.
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Aug 8, 2016 02:38
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That reminds me, my local library has a section with several years' worth of CR magazines, so it's worth checking yours.
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Aug 8, 2016 03:26
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GWBBQ posted:I haven't bought many appliances, but when we needed a new dishwasher last year we went with the I really cannot speak more highly of them, it's magic. Even the third rack silverware tray which seems ridiculous at first blush but really adds a significant amount of space. You also never have random spoons stuck to each other dirty, and if you sort them it's a breeze to unload.
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Aug 8, 2016 03:36
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H110Hawk posted:I really cannot speak more highly of them, it's magic. Even the third rack silverware tray which seems ridiculous at first blush but really adds a significant amount of space. You also never have random spoons stuck to each other dirty, and if you sort them it's a breeze to unload. Seconded. Bought whatever Bosch the sweethome recommended with that dope silverware tray and now I have a place to cram all the weird poo poo a two year-old seems to put in or around his mouth.
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Aug 8, 2016 05:20
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Can anyone recommend me some clear epoxy resin for pouring over beercaps to make a clear table top surface? Eg something like this to make something like this?  Also, what adhesive would be best for gluing the caps to the table top?
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Aug 8, 2016 11:58
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How bad is it to try and re-seal pavers with new joint sand when relative humidity will go up to 95% over night?
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Aug 8, 2016 13:14
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baquerd posted:How bad is it to try and re-seal pavers with new joint sand when relative humidity will go up to 95% over night? Not at all. It's fine. As long as you can give it a couple hours after wet down before actual rain (and it's not going below freezing) it will happily chooch away.
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Aug 8, 2016 15:16
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Motronic posted:Not at all. It's fine. From your phrasing, I wonder if you think I'm using polymeric sand. I'm using traditional sand and sealer with joint stabilizer, is that still OK?
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Aug 8, 2016 16:13
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baquerd posted:From your phrasing, I wonder if you think I'm using polymeric sand. I'm using traditional sand and sealer with joint stabilizer, is that still OK? Yep, I absolutely took from your post that you were using poly sand. I don't have any experience with what you're using here, but if I were in your position I'd be checking the label on the products. They will undoubtedly detail what their dry/cure requirements are.
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Aug 8, 2016 16:18
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Motronic posted:I don't have any experience with what you're using here, but if I were in your position I'd be checking the label on the products. They will undoubtedly detail what their dry/cure requirements are. Yeah, it says to only apply when humidity is under 85%, not to apply when rain is forecast within 48 hours, and that it's safe to walk on after 2 hours. When I'd apply it, forecast is 60% relative humidity, 2 hours later would put it at 75%, and 3 hours after that it's 90% until the next morning. I'd really like to get this done that day, otherwise the pavers will go at least one rainfall with nothing in between the joints. To me, a strict interpretation of their instructions says this should be OK...
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Aug 8, 2016 20:56
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Has anyone here purchased a sliding bathroom barn door? Any place I look online is either cheap $100 junk or a $1500 artisinal ripoff. There has to be something that bridges that gap, but I can't seem to find anything.
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Aug 9, 2016 00:38
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OSU_Matthew posted:Can anyone recommend me some clear epoxy resin for pouring over beercaps to make a clear table top surface? We just finished doing our countertops with http://www.countertopepoxy.com/premium-fx-poxy/ . They came out pretty well, and it was very easy to work with. Note that you can probably get it cheaper on Amazon. We used it on top of concrete, but it should work for beer caps just the same. To hold them down, I'd probably just use clear silicone caulk. You only really need to hold them down while you pour the epoxy. Just put a big dab of caulk below each one, and stick it to the table.
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Aug 9, 2016 01:11
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devicenull posted:We just finished doing our countertops with http://www.countertopepoxy.com/premium-fx-poxy/ . They came out pretty well, and it was very easy to work with. Note that you can probably get it cheaper on Amazon. We used it on top of concrete, but it should work for beer caps just the same. Awesome, thanks! I've never used epoxy before so I just wasn't sure if there was anything special I should watch out for or a particular kind I should use (since everything I can find seems to be a bit pricey). Caulk is a good idea, I'll try that out! How much surface area did those two gallons cover?
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Aug 9, 2016 01:54
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Making a picture frame. Wood. Loctite Ultragel (mentions wood) Or regular wood glue?
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Aug 9, 2016 05:03
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Feenix posted:Making a picture frame. Wood. http://www.thistothat.com/ What do you got for corner clamps?
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Aug 9, 2016 05:52
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Feenix posted:Making a picture frame. Wood. Plain old Titebond or Titebond II glues up stronger than the wood itself if you're able to clamp the joints. I believe plain old elmers glue is 99% the same thing and will work in a pinch, though I've never tried it myself
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Aug 9, 2016 12:04
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The main thing for frames is to either have some method of clamping the corners together (for mitered corners), or to have a joint that does side grain to side grain. I'd recommend getting a strap clamp; I've used this one to make picture frames and it works fine. The thing with mitered joints is that they're still going to be weak even if you do have a method for clamping them together, since they're end grain to end grain. They'll be more than strong enough to hold together and support a reasonable piece of artwork, though.
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Aug 9, 2016 13:07
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I'm going to start drawing up some actual plans for my deck. Is there a definitive beam/joist span guide somewhere? I've found a few different tables online that seem to have conflicting information. To keep the deck as low to the ground as possible I'm planning on using 2x6s for beams/joists, so I'm going to need to be very precise in my post placement. Also, is there some other thread I should be asking these questions? You all have been super helpful in the past, so I don't want to annoy everyone if my my deck questions (of which I'm sure I'll have plenty) should go somewhere else.
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Aug 9, 2016 15:59
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