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Geirskogul posted:Oh poo poo, Santa does exist Speaking of imgur sucking, I can't see poo poo. edit: oh wait it all came back.
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Jul 26, 2016 15:34
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By percentage of total weight how much of that van is rust?
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Jul 26, 2016 17:40
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Actually quite low. There's surface rust in a lot of places, but I bet the undercoat outweighs the rust 4:1
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Jul 26, 2016 23:23
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Are there weird automotive materials in it, like wood and cork? EDIT: Sorry, I meant the van in general. Dick Trauma fucked around with this message at 00:30 on Jul 27, 2016 |
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Jul 27, 2016 00:08
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The undercoat? No. Sprayed on rubber. Also the crv is throwing the check engine light, but no code. Either ECU or transmission.
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Jul 27, 2016 00:18
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Looked it up, and while there's no OBDII code, it said you can short the diagnostic connector pins to have the light itself read out a code. Six slow blinks, seven fast ones. Honda code 67. "Catalyst efficiency below threshold." It's not terrible yet, because it hasn't thrown an actual OBDII code, but I bet running around for thousands of miles with exhaust valves being held open didn't do any favors to the cat. So, I pulled out an old trick, to see if it will help:  Light reset with fuse 13, and I took it on a 50 mile round trip drive. We'll see :shifty: Also, removing the rear O2 sensor shattered two O2 sensor wrenches. I live right next to an Oreilly's, so I'm sorry Elemnt80. Return *shatter* Return *shatter*. But I finally got it with judicious use of Deep Creep and a hammer.
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Jul 31, 2016 05:13
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I've never even heard of a 'Spark Plug Non-Fouler' before.
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Jul 31, 2016 07:02
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The Locator posted:I've never even heard of a 'Spark Plug Non-Fouler' before. It's just called that to get around what it really is, which is an O2 sensor spacer to get rid of catalyst efficiency codes, say after you've knocked yours out with a broom.  I've never seen one used for its named purpose.
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Jul 31, 2016 07:29
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Terrible Robot posted:It's just called that to get around what it really is, which is an O2 sensor spacer to get rid of catalyst efficiency codes, say after you've knocked yours out with a broom. Back when I umm... might have been running a cat-less exhaust, they had actual dummy devices that completely replaced the sensor's to get rid of the code. This is the first time I've ever heard of these, which I guess shows just how far away from the 'car scene' I am these days.
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Jul 31, 2016 07:36
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Dummy devices work, but they can get spendy for the ones that actually function as intented. Also there's something funky with Hondas with these engines regarding O2 sensor voltage. Something about those "universal" sensors eventually frying a MOSFET on the PCM. Also, there's a reason those "non foulers" come in two-packs: you traditionally need two of them to space the sensor out far enough. They also make the hole opening too small to fit an O2 sensor probe, so you have to drill it out pretty large with a step-bit to fit. They're either always aluminum, or at least one of them is aluminum, to make drilling easier. And the really shameless ones only have a thin "ring" of metal that you can almost punch out with your thumb like an electrical box knockout. It's the same thing as "tobacco" pipes that have a really thin area to punch out for a carb. Queen_Combat fucked around with this message at 07:45 on Jul 31, 2016 |
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Jul 31, 2016 07:42
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Geirskogul posted:Looked it up, and while there's no OBDII code, it said you can short the diagnostic connector pins to have the light itself read out a code. I think I'd be more curious than anything. You know, so long as they weren't thrown at my head in anger. 
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Jul 31, 2016 09:13
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Look up O2 sensor spacers on Amazon. No drilling needed on many of them.
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Jul 31, 2016 10:24
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I did. Not too many available with Prime, and I needed it today as I leave tomorrow until the 28th for drill. Totally saw that it's a market, though. Auto parts seem to have a lot of shelf inertia. One weekend a month two weeks a year my rear end in a top hat. They've doubled it 
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Jul 31, 2016 10:34
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Spark plug non foulers are the triggerless assault rifle "kit" of the automotive world. I love both of them.
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Jul 31, 2016 17:05
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The race starts when the rules are written.   I discovered that WYZ uses plain old carbon black to make their black ABS, and that's UV resistant. So, A/C exhaust vent is made. It's pretty large, actually, with an air opening size of 9 inches by 4.5 inches. Designing for FDM 3D printing is fun. From the ground up, you have to think about the orientation your object will print in, as well as overhang angles. For instance, on the vents, I had to put 45 degree gussets so the endcap would have something to bridge to:  Because it's printing upwards like this:  And the very next layer, it has to bridge across all of those  So it had better have support structure to lay on. I also intentionally designed the stripe down the center, because I knew I would be cutting it in half to print both halves. Queen_Combat fucked around with this message at 21:29 on Jul 31, 2016 |
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Jul 31, 2016 21:22
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Okay, the "silicone II" I bought must have been old or something, because it started curing IMMEDIATELY upon application. I need to let it cure fully, then cut it out and do it again (maybe this time at night). Seriously, it is a disaster. But at least it's not permanent.  
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Aug 1, 2016 00:52
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Please never cover up that dragon.  Also I wish we could send this thread back in time about 20 years to tease do-it-yourself'ers with the prospect of literally making your own replacement parts. It's my favorite part of this thread. 
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Aug 1, 2016 16:53
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The Locator posted:Back when I umm... might have been running a cat-less exhaust, they had actual dummy devices that completely replaced the sensor's to get rid of the code. This is the first time I've ever heard of these, which I guess shows just how far away from the 'car scene' I am these days. A lot of the guys who were making those got hit with a $35k per device sold EPA CAA "defeat device" fine, which usually gets bargained down to "you're going bankrupt and we're taking all your money" IIRC. They are somewhat frowned upon these days, but I'm sure still available. Meanwhile, sparkplug non foulers technically are legal because an O2 sensor snout won't fit through them as-manufactured, and some sparkplugs use the same thread as an O2 sensor, and if you modify the thing to be a defeat device the EPA should be going after you, not the manufacturer. Problem solved. Make sure you get the ones with (usually, check your O2 sensor first) M18x1.5 threads... many spark plugs use M14 which clearly won't work. e: the company I know of that's been making O2 sims since at least 2009 is still making them. I'm assuming they just aren't big enough to attract the EPA's attention... yet. Not a business I'd be in, that's for sure, I don't like risking a $35k fine for every $56 device sold. kastein fucked around with this message at 20:59 on Aug 1, 2016 |
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Aug 1, 2016 18:20
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Holy poo poo that's a huge goddamn fine! Also, HOLY loving poo poo FIRST loving TRY NO ADJUSTMENT   Thought to myself "oh yeah, that's this month" and swung by on the way home. He did the loaded test in 2nd gear (up to 23mph on the gauge, between 20 and 25 required) and the idle test was done in seconds. That's NEVER HAPPENED BEFORE. LAST YEAR IT TOOK 19 TRIES AND OVER $200. gently caress yes progressive carb! I don't think I'll paint over the dragon. I'll definitely paint around it and maybe leave only the head, but that's enough, right? It's a legend now no matter how much I hate it.
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Aug 2, 2016 02:05
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Right on the line for idle, drat.
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Aug 2, 2016 04:04
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Is that the van that passed or the beetle? Hell yea on the dragon though!
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Aug 2, 2016 04:40
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That's the bus. The beetle was a pain the first year, but I've got it tuned and an idle jet I throw in there for the test. One 8mm bolt to swap it out. The bus was three gallons of denatured alcohol and a 2,000 RPM idle last year. But that was on the crap EMPI dual carbs - now it's on Mike's Weber progressive he sold me, and even though it's clapped out, it passed first go and gets much better mileage. 18-19 instead of 11-13. E: the beetle passed the idle at 498/500 two years ago IIRC. New carb for it, too.
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Aug 2, 2016 05:30
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Also, there is no Yin, without Yang. Throttle cable snapped on me in Home Depot as I was picking up the air conditioner.  Luckily, I had forseen the cable snapping soon, due to its fraying. So I had ordered two of them friday (didn't know which year specifically was the right length - 1973/74 version does fit as it should) and they showed up today. So I had  my fiancee bring them to me, and I changed it in the lot.But now I have a 5000 BTU LG air conditioner with an EER of 11.2, and a piece of red oak paneling to finish it off.
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Aug 2, 2016 05:37
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Does anybody know of a good wood waterproofing spray? This AC is different from the old ones and, while it has a drain, it also has a slinger fan and evaporates the condensate to improve efficiency. I didn't stain the underside of the bed, though, and don't want leaking air and extra moisture to start rotting things. Painting with a brush is also a pain.
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Aug 3, 2016 20:38
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Aug 4, 2016 02:07
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You're just begging to be selected for a "random" drug test.
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Aug 4, 2016 02:18
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What am I doing?
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Aug 5, 2016 02:23
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IDK, something practical with a leftover window unit? 
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Aug 5, 2016 16:07
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It turns out window AC units don't tolerate any restriction on intake or exhaust and operate at the very edge of function. It's been a three day struggle to get this operational. At night it kind of keeps you from dying, but it does not actively cool the entire thing. I have plans to implement on Monday, involving another exhaust vent and foamboard ducting. It was not terrible last night, but it was also humid as poo poo. I also need to notch the bed frame so it blows upwards, too. Otherwise it just cools the chair.
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Aug 5, 2016 16:22
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Yeah, you're also gonna need a drain for it. From the photo I had assumed that you had cut a big ol' AC-sized hole in the side of the bus for that thing cuz that's the only way it'll work  How many BTUs is it? And since cold air sinks, it'd be better to mount it up higher, but this is a non-standard application you're going for. poo poo, it might be easier to mount the thing on the roof and divert all the cold air with ducting, etc. Incidentally the Thompson's Water Seal spray was what I was going to recommend for the water proofing but you beat me to it 
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Aug 5, 2016 17:04
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scuz posted:poo poo, it might be easier to mount the thing on the roof and divert all the cold air with ducting, etc. Time for an RV AC unit?
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Aug 5, 2016 17:16
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I've got a drain and backup channel. And I chose that AC unit because it blows upwards instead of forwards. I think I need to get a 12v fan to help mix the air. And, as it is, I have the air restricted and blowing forwards, which is not ideal, so I'm going to notch the bed to allow it to blow upwards. RV AC units are heavy, and I really didn't want to ruin the line of the bus. Also it won't fit in the parking area if it's any taller. The output blows into an 8-inch elbow, into the side cabinet, and out the side vent that also vents the diesel fumes from the tank. I've sealed the side cabinet to water and air, but the cabinet itself gets hot. So, next step is to use foamboard to insulate the cabinet, and create a more direct "channel" from the exhaust elbow to the exhaust vent, so even if left uninsulated it will be a 10" strip that heats up instead of the entire thing.
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Aug 5, 2016 20:39
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What about something like this: http://www.climaterightair.com/applications/rv-trailer-air-conditioning-and-heating.html I have seen them mounted internally in teardrop trailers.
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Aug 6, 2016 05:58
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You could try a portable AC unit: https://www.homedepot.com/b/Heating-Venting-Cooling-Air-Conditioners-Coolers-Air-Conditioners-Portable-Air-Conditioners/N-5yc1vZc4m4 It looks like they might be better able to handle running in confined spaces, plus they're already set up with a duct for exhaust. It might be a little big to fit in the bus, though.
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Aug 6, 2016 06:06
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Look at all these people that think I have a spare $600 to spend This will work, I'm sure. As it is, it kind of kept me from dying. It's my design that's the problem. I need better exhaust isolation, and maybe a second intake. Fixing the airflow will help mixing.
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Aug 6, 2016 14:25
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There are really 3 "zones" that need to be thought of when putting a window unit in an enclosed space like that. The back, which is the hot air exhaust, the middle, which is fresh air intake, and the cooled zones. They all need to be separated. Here's something I found that's similar to your mounting, might be able to get some ideas from it. http://www.nationalserroscotty.org/resources/Fuller-ac.pdf EDIT: Here's another one that shows proper separation of the 3 zones. https://teardropadventures.com/2016/06/04/teardrop-trailer-air-condition-ac-unit-installation/
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Aug 6, 2016 21:49
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Exactly, three zones. Hot exhausts out the side. Fresh in from the bottom (it will have a second cover flush with the front of the unit). And the inside. Currently the intake also takes interior air, which is not ideal.
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Aug 6, 2016 22:09
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Is it dry enough out there to take advantage of evaporative cooling? Would be more power efficient for running off batteries, for sure.
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Aug 6, 2016 22:29
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Where is the giant swamp cooler? I feel like your environment is appropriate for it.
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Aug 7, 2016 01:33
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Swamp coolers are great if you happen to like living in a swamp. I grew up with a swamp cooler (didn't live in a place with A/C until my early 20's) and I'm never (if I have a choice) living in a swamp cooled place again. It's certainly better than no cooling system, but A/C is the champ for comfort.
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Aug 7, 2016 01:48
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