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Parallel Paraplegic posted:Oh I didn't realize there were different kinds, I've only ever used the "push down on it until it makes a loud bang" type. Guess I'm going back to the hardware store this weekend http://www.lowes.com/pd/Stanley-Center-Punch/1000004842 I really like having one on hand even with an auto punch already in the toolbox because when working on metal if you mark slightly off you can always get this out and push the hole back to where you want by angling to the side and whacking again. Doesn't always work with an auto, they tend to slip in my experience.
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Aug 5, 2016 21:22
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oxbrain posted:Or the drill bit itself. Or a pencil/pen. Anything with a point that is harder than the wood will work fine. A nail would probably work but I somehow do not have any at all. Never really got it to work in the past with the bit itself for some reason, and when I do it with a pencil/pen it seems to grab the edge of the dent and torque itself out of the hole slightly, just enough to go in uneven. I'm guessing it wasn't deep enough a dent, or the dent was too small. I actually just tried my centerpunch and while I can't push it all the way down without loving up the wood I can make a pretty good little dent if I just push it about half-way that the bit doesn't skip out of. Thanks again thread!
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Aug 5, 2016 21:31
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Make some sort of dent in the wood for the drill bit to rest in, if you're doing a big hole start with a smaller pilot hole, it's much easier to control where the hole goes then.
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Aug 6, 2016 05:44
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These days I use an automatic center punch, my Blue Point is adjustable. I also have one like Parts Kit posted but for many years I used whatever pointy thing was handy. And someone suggested brad point bits -- they are inexpensive and worth owning for drilling into wood. If you use dowels, grab a set of metric brad points too.
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Aug 6, 2016 06:41
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The storage box / chest is done. I redid the lid design and used boards going the other way instead. It's too bad the hinges are mostly hidden, they look pretty cool.  Not strictly woodworking but related, started painting the floor in my workshop, good thing most of my tools can be moved around. The bandsaw though, no chance. I am painting around it. 
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Aug 6, 2016 07:52
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His Divine Shadow posted:The storage box / chest is done. I redid the lid design and used boards going the other way instead. That's really cool! I really need to seal the floor of my workshop, it's just bricks and concrete tiles.
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Aug 7, 2016 04:54
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His Divine Shadow posted:It's too bad the hinges are mostly hidden, they look pretty cool. Looks good. I would flip the hinges around and bend the long piece around the edge so they show on top.
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Aug 7, 2016 06:25
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Here's an interesting project. https://www.facebook.com/thisisinsiderdesign/videos/323606977980938/
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Aug 8, 2016 04:08
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Aug 8, 2016 05:34
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Thinner the stuff you're turning, the better you need to select your wood.
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Aug 8, 2016 08:13
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Sucks, but otherwise looks like a good start. What chuck did you end up going for? I'm about to drop some cash on one myself, most likely a Nova of some sort. A guy I know who also does some turning mentioned a while back that tops are a simple and easy to sell item if you want to make some cash back from the tools.
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Aug 8, 2016 13:32
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wormil posted:These days I use an automatic center punch, my Blue Point is adjustable. I also have one like Parts Kit posted but for many years I used whatever pointy thing was handy. And someone suggested brad point bits -- they are inexpensive and worth owning for drilling into wood. If you use dowels, grab a set of metric brad points too. Yeah I use an automatic centre punch on wood sometimes. If it's soft wood you just press a bit, no need to push it all the way and actually actuate. Pine or whatever will dent just from a bit of pressure. Maple or whatever hardwoods seem to be ok with the punch actuating. Mind you, I have probably the crappiest one money can buy so maybe it doesn't strike very hard compared to one people actually use while metalworking. I also loosened something on it that is supposed to reduce the power or something.
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Aug 8, 2016 15:24
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Spookydonut posted:Thinner the stuff you're turning, the better you need to select your wood. No argument, although I think it was buried at least a quarter inch under a solid-looking surface. Don't know how I could've seen it coming. It's black mesquite, maybe it's prone to that? Parts Kit posted:Sucks, but otherwise looks like a good start. What chuck did you end up going for? I'm about to drop some cash on one myself, most likely a Nova of some sort. Thank you, it actually felt like it was going very well. But getting 75% of the way there and then this... I think I screamed. I cheaped out and ended up with this set, since it comes with 3 sets of jaws and generally good reviews for a beginner's choice. Nova's are certainly a step up, just pricier to get the same options (esp. if you're buying new). I've only used it a few times and it seems to work very well -- the couple of times it let loose of the piece was when I didn't make a proper tenon, but once I figured that out it really held on. A lot of people hate having to use bars to tighten the jaws, but it hasn't been that big of a pain for me. If I were trying to mass-produce stuff, then I could see it getting annoying.
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Aug 8, 2016 16:25
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Going to try my hand and building a shoe rack for the wife. I'm not big into woodworking but like taking up small project here and there. What's a good wood that's affordable but can take a stain well? Looking at pine and poplar it seem these are good priced but stain like crap. Oak seems to be a decent choice. Any suggestions?
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Aug 8, 2016 18:57
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After loving up more times than I can count and at least 20 different trips to home depot due to getting the wrong kind of screws my table is finally near completion, the danish oil drying on it right now. Thanks thread!
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Aug 8, 2016 19:36
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FCKGW posted:Going to try my hand and building a shoe rack for the wife. I'm not big into woodworking but like taking up small project here and there. Why not walnut, then you don't need to stain at all. You could just finish it with say shellac or water based polyurethane. Or oil, or nothing.
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Aug 9, 2016 05:10
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Let's play Count the Fuckups I Made:
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Aug 9, 2016 05:16
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And walnut does take stain well in case you want to make it look like oak.
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Aug 9, 2016 05:17
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wormil posted:And walnut does take stain well in case you want to make it look like oak. I'm not sure I follow here, isn't walnut very dark, much darker than even stained oak? By staining something I assume you're making it darker, so making dark walnut even darker makes it look like oak? I feel I am missing something here, perhaps a joke, because it seems a bit silly to get something good like walnut and try and make it look like something else, same with oak. Both woods look good as they are. I only ever stain pine.
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Aug 9, 2016 06:21
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Parallel Paraplegic posted:Let's play Count the Fuckups I Made: This is a very popular game among woodworkers, but only for their own works. Usually nobody else notices. Nice table!
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Aug 9, 2016 12:56
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Im making a bunch of wheels for a project, so I went out and bought a wheel cutter, which works a treat, except for the fact that the axle hole is too small, and I want to enlarge it. My current method of eyeballing the centre isnt working, and I need to make a bunch of them soonish, so I figure a jig will help, but im not too sure how to go about it. The process to make the wheels isnt too involved. Drill down just under half way on one side of the wood, then flip it over, use the hole to align the drill press, and then finish it off. I could swap out the wheel cutter for a standard drill bit of the correct size, once everything is aligned and clamped on the second side, but that would involve a shitload of drill bit changes, and I wanted something more stream lined. It might work to cut a hole the exact size of the wheel, maybe line it with sandpaper so the wheel doesnt spin, and then align it once and clamp it in place, then I can just swap the bits.
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Aug 9, 2016 13:00
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:This is a very popular game among woodworkers, but only for their own works. Usually nobody else notices. Nice table! Yep, exactly. You are the only one that sees them. Looks like a fine table to me.
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Aug 9, 2016 14:01
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Trabant posted:Thank you, it actually felt like it was going very well. But getting 75% of the way there and then this... I think I screamed. Thanks for the info on that chuck. I'm thinking I will stick with the Nova since some of their accessory jaws look pretty sweet, particularly the pen set so I can get the drilling/squaring done on the lathe too, but I'll keep that one in mind.
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Aug 9, 2016 15:01
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mds2 posted:Yep, exactly. You are the only one that sees them. Aw c'mon, nobody's going to point out how there's like 6 screws that are totally different than the rest because I ran out, or how the holes are all wobbly and asymmetrical  (Thanks though!)
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Aug 9, 2016 15:07
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Parallel Paraplegic posted:Aw c'mon, nobody's going to point out how there's like 6 screws that are totally different than the rest because I ran out, or how the holes are all wobbly and asymmetrical Mismatched screws and real wood will always have more character and history than Ikea and Target garbage. Good looking table.
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Aug 9, 2016 15:25
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Parallel Paraplegic posted:Aw c'mon, nobody's going to point out how there's like 6 screws that are totally different than the rest because I ran out, or how the holes are all wobbly and asymmetrical Nice table. Though your screws are totally different and the holes are all asymmetrical!
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Aug 9, 2016 15:42
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His Divine Shadow posted:I'm not sure I follow here, I was just being silly.
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Aug 9, 2016 16:13
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Will any food-oil be ok to treat some birch plywood? I just need it to be slightly dust-/schmutz-proof.
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Aug 9, 2016 16:23
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Did a roof from a friend and they were asking me what they should do with their rotten window that was letting bugs and water in. I noticed that there was an old window behind their cottage and got an idea.  Took the two top panes out of the old window behind their cottage and one of the panes from the window I replaced (bottom pane) and build a frame out of 2x6" cedar, made groves with the router, and threw on some trim, lost of clear silicone, paint, and some caulking. Think it turned out pretty nice. About 20% more visibility over the old one.
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Aug 9, 2016 16:58
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Pondex posted:Will any food-oil be ok to treat some birch plywood? I just need it to be slightly dust-/schmutz-proof. Oil will attract dust. Use a coat of waterbase poly or buy a can of spray lacquer or blonde shellac.
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Aug 9, 2016 17:14
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One more table question - I'd like to fill the holes where the screws are with something to have a mostly smooth work surface. The top of the table is attached to the legs with bolts that can be removed from the bottom entirely so that I don't have to unscrew anything from the top ever, so I'm not worried about getting back at the screws at a later time. I bought some plastic wood just on a whim, is that good enough? Should I like, mix up some sawdust and wood glue?
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Aug 9, 2016 17:50
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wormil posted:Oil will attract dust. Use a coat of waterbase poly or buy a can of spray lacquer or blonde shellac. I'll look into that instead. Thanks.
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Aug 9, 2016 18:22
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Parallel Paraplegic posted:One more table question... IMO, plastic wood is good for pin nail holes, and sometimes acceptable for brad nails. It's going to shrink and crack and look vastly different from that wood, no matter what you do. It isn't much more work to buy a plug cutter and cut plugs from the scraps. Let the glue dry, chisel the bulk away, and a few quick swipes with a sharp plane will bring them flush. Plus, then you have another tool, so it's a win-win.
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Aug 9, 2016 18:59
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CharlieWhiskey posted:Mismatched screws and real wood will always have more character and history than Ikea and Target garbage. New thread title pls
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Aug 9, 2016 19:32
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wormil posted:I was just being silly. You've got to understand how precious walnut is in Finland. I have had a few chunks for the last three years, and am still afraid to use them. HDS was reacting like seeing someone paint over ebony.
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Aug 10, 2016 10:24
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wormil posted:I was just being silly. Knowing nothing about staining, thanks for clearing that up.
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Aug 10, 2016 19:40
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FYI, I wasn't kidding about taking stain well. This comes in handy if you get walnut with baby poo poo greenish-brown sapwood attached (the steaming process sometimes does that), a bit of walnut stain will have it looking tip top. As for making it look like oak, that was me using wry humor (or trying) to say that it's better to use the wood you want in the first place. You might have some success staining poplar but it blotches badly and that's a dead giveaway. Stained pine never really looks like anything but stained pine. If you add dyes and toners to the mix then you can get better results but that's advanced finishing.
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Aug 11, 2016 01:50
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Just bought a nice big board of ash and a bit of cherry. Both are rarities around here, and I've had the biggest grin for the last hour. The ash I'll use for the springpoles on my ridiculous lathe, while the cherry will make a nightstand tabletop, very excited to start work.
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Aug 11, 2016 12:09
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Free Market Mambo posted:Just bought a nice big board of ash and a bit of cherry. Both are rarities around here, and I've had the biggest grin for the last hour. I eagerly await your spring-loaded death-trap and/or goon masterpiece. It seems like that's the only 2 options in this thread.
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Aug 11, 2016 14:57
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Any recommendations for a low angle smoothing plane? I don't have room for a jointer.
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Aug 11, 2016 14:58
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