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literally a fish posted:hello volvo spergs can you help me out? Speaking of which, had to leave the land of happiness and Volvos as keeping the boost inside the engine was tedious (mostly just expensive) after 300k mi. Also the body started to crap out, as did the electronics. Replaced it with a I4 Honda generic family car and the lack of
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Aug 17, 2016 21:43
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literally a fish posted:hello volvo spergs can you help me out? That is the pressure switch for the brake booster auxiliary vacuum pump. If you sit with engine off but ignition on and tap the brake pedal, you should hear the pump going "bzzzzzzt". If not, the switch is broken. The non-return valves for the brake booster is also integrated in the switch. How do I know? I used to work with exactly that part at Volvo R&D...  Deleting the switch may cause a hard brake pedal during cold starts and I recommend against it. https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo-booster-vacuum-switch-s60-v70-xc70-s80-genuine-volvo-31265825 dev/null fucked around with this message at 01:33 on Aug 18, 2016 |
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Aug 18, 2016 01:20
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I remembered it being something to do with the brake vac pump! Thanks very much 
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Aug 18, 2016 02:21
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So my car (06 V70 2.5T) feels like it has no brakes right after a cold start, no initial bite and lots of pedal travel before you get much braking. I thought it was the cheap rock auto pads/rotors I put on it, but could it somehow be related to the switch you're talking about above or something else? I flushed new fluid through and bled every corner so I don't think it's the fluid. Edit: I'll be damned. Sounds exactly like the issue. http://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=43817 Suburban Dad fucked around with this message at 15:00 on Aug 18, 2016 |
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Aug 18, 2016 14:24
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Larrymer posted:So my car (06 V70 2.5T) feels like it has no brakes right after a cold start, no initial bite and lots of pedal travel before you get much braking. I thought it was the cheap rock auto pads/rotors I put on it, but could it somehow be related to the switch you're talking about above or something else? I flushed new fluid through and bled every corner so I don't think it's the fluid. Yes, a broken pump/switch might give you lousy pedal feel, and if you drive on higher altitudes it gets even worse. (Low quality pads doesn't help either...) The traditional way of using the engine inlet as vacuum source was ruined with the introduction of electronic throttles. Today, modern engines have practically no inlet vacuum at all during the cold start sequence. This has forced the manufacturers to come up with all sorts of contraptions in order to secure an acceptable brake pedal feel. Current Volvos have now discarded the use of inlet vacuum and switched to the same kind of camshaft driven pumps used on the diesel variants.
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Aug 19, 2016 00:28
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It only happens right after a cold start, otherwise the pedal feels fine. Would that point to the switch?
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Aug 19, 2016 14:42
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Yup.
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Aug 19, 2016 20:31
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Larrymer posted:It only happens right after a cold start, otherwise the pedal feels fine. Would that point to the switch? If you can not hear the pump running while pumping the brake pedal during ignition on, then it is either the switch or the pump that is broken. Disconnect the plug going to the switch and connect the two terminals. If the pump starts running, it is the switch, if not, it is the pump. (Or both  )
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Aug 19, 2016 22:22
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Trying to figure out whats wrong with my 93' 240. If I leave it for a few days, its hard to start. It will never start right away, but it starts on the 2nd time I try. However, If im driving it around a bit, it seems to have no issues starting. Thats my battery that needs replacing right?
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Aug 21, 2016 01:57
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How do you pop the front bumper chrome back into those little clips on the body on a 240? My car was missing the chrome when I bought it and I found a replacement at the yard. From my minimal dicking with it it seems like it'll be a real pain in the rear end to get everything lined up and snapped in. I know I've done it before, years ago, but I don't remember how. Do you just have to trial-and-error it or is there some trick?
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Aug 21, 2016 05:16
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I think my 940 is leaking vacuum from the brake booster. I need to buy a new one. I have a question about something this website says: https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo-power-brake-booster-740-745-760-940-960-53-5995 It lists the booster as "Non-ABS." I am assuming that means it doesn't work with ABS? Can someone explain this to me please? EDIT: Does this mean I would need a different master cylinder? Big Bowie Bonanza fucked around with this message at 04:05 on Aug 22, 2016 |
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Aug 22, 2016 04:02
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dev/null posted:If you can not hear the pump running while pumping the brake pedal during ignition on, then it is either the switch or the pump that is broken. Disconnect the plug going to the switch and connect the two terminals. If the pump starts running, it is the switch, if not, it is the pump. (Or both Thanks for this. 
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Aug 22, 2016 14:47
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FordPRefectLL posted:I think my 940 is leaking vacuum from the brake booster. I need to buy a new one. I have a question about something this website says: If your car has ABS, this booster will probably not fit. It may very well fit mechanically, but the force/displacement ratio might not match the master cylinder (which differs between ABS and non-ABS), and replacing the cylinder might screw with the ABS in general. Best case: Weird pedal feel. Worst case: ABS goes nuts. Edit: Are you sure about the booster being leaky? Have you checked the checkvalve? (The white plastic thingy where the hose connects to the booster) dev/null fucked around with this message at 00:06 on Aug 23, 2016 |
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Aug 22, 2016 23:59
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I plugged that up and drove around for a bit and the misfiring stop so I assumed it wasn't the check valve.
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Aug 23, 2016 07:03
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FordPRefectLL posted:I plugged that up and drove around for a bit and the misfiring stop so I assumed it wasn't the check valve. OK, does it hold any vacuum when you turn engine off? Anyways, I retract my earlier statement regarding booster variants. I dug through some part lists today and it turns out that from -91, the 940 uses the same master cylinder for both ABS and non ABS equipped cars. If your car has the tandem-booster (thick, small diameter) then it should be the same, but the only way to be sure is to check your car for the partnumber. (Should be 3516094)
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Aug 23, 2016 18:24
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I'm replacing the pcv system in my 2004 v70 2.5T, and things look predictably clogged. The thing is, there seemed to be quite a bit of dirty oil in the turbo intercooler pipes and such. Is this normal for a clogged pcv or is the turbo on the way out as well? I haven't had a chance to try for play in the turbo yet, I'll do that in a bit. Edit :   No play, but I have a dreadful feeling the filter wasn't sealed correctly and some crap got in the system. Slim Pickens fucked around with this message at 03:25 on Aug 29, 2016 |
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Aug 29, 2016 02:59
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It's a bit on the heavy side, but that's pretty much normal buildup for things with a PCV system and no catch can. If there's no play, I'd say run it.
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Aug 29, 2016 19:43
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Yeah, there is always oil in the intake, it's normal for even a healthy motor. Basically the PCV box is an oil/air separator under light vacuum. A tube sucks crank gases from the top of the engine and crankcase, and the separator swirls it and tries to get most of the oil to condense. The condensed oil drains down to the bottom and back into the pan. The air and remaining oil vapor gets sucked into the intake tube just before the turbo, so it is always oily. The key is to watch your oil consumption. If you're not losing more than a quart in 1500/2000 miles you're fine. My V70 has 185k on it now and it loses less than half a quart between 5k mile changes, and the intake is fully coated in oil.
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Aug 30, 2016 03:24
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This is probably an extreme long shot, but my 2006 XC70 makes a noise while going over big speed bumps/steep driveways at low-ish speed that sounds like split wire loom or something similar is zipping against an edge as the car flexes. I'm sort of hoping there aren't that many places it could be so I could find it and re-attach whatever's slipping around.
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Aug 30, 2016 05:42
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LloydDobler posted:Yeah, there is always oil in the intake, it's normal for even a healthy motor. Basically the PCV box is an oil/air separator under light vacuum. A tube sucks crank gases from the top of the engine and crankcase, and the separator swirls it and tries to get most of the oil to condense. The condensed oil drains down to the bottom and back into the pan. The air and remaining oil vapor gets sucked into the intake tube just before the turbo, so it is always oily. It's been losing less than a quart between 6k mi oil changes, so I'm not too worried yet. New air filter and an oil change and I'll keep an eye on it. So many god drat electrical connectors and vacuum lines on cars anymore, I hope I didn't miss an important one.
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Aug 30, 2016 20:41
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 I think my intake manifold is cracked. There was oil/dirt all around the area before I cleaned it to get a better look, and all the other intake runners are nowhere near as dirty around the mounting flange. Has anyone ever had this happen before? 1999 C70 T5M is the car. I've been trying to nail down exactly what the PO did to it tune wise. So far I know it's setup to run 22psi in every gear except 1st and 5th (limits itself to 16psi in those gears) but the injectors and turbo both seem stock (16T, white injectors) so 22psi seems really aggressive. I just happened to notice this while I was inspecting the engine bay. Terrible Robot fucked around with this message at 23:19 on Sep 6, 2016 |
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Sep 6, 2016 22:54
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Sometimes Volvo castings look like they're cracked when it's just casting defects. But the good news is if it is cracked, those manifolds are on every 5cyl turbo volvo from 99 to 2010 basically unchanged, so with a junkyard visit it should be easy and cheap to replace. Hell, I have 3 spares in my garage that have just sort of migrated there somehow. I can't believe 22 psi on a 16T is anywhere near efficient, you're probably blowing really superheated air into the cylinders. But I'm not that well versed on what happens when you push too much pressure out of too little turbo. You should check intake temperature. What I do know is basically the most any tuners ever put through my 16T here at altitude was 18-19 psi. That'd be only 16-17 at sea level before they recommend upgrading the turbo. I didn't see over 20 psi until I got a 19T. And again, at sea level most tuners don't turn the 19T up much over 18-19 psi.
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Sep 8, 2016 05:38
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Anybody know if 15" spica wheels fit over P2 (V70) brakes? Mine are 286mm rotors according to my rock auto order.
Suburban Dad fucked around with this message at 14:16 on Sep 8, 2016 |
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Sep 8, 2016 14:14
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LloydDobler posted:Sometimes Volvo castings look like they're cracked when it's just casting defects. But the good news is if it is cracked, those manifolds are on every 5cyl turbo volvo from 99 to 2010 basically unchanged, so with a junkyard visit it should be easy and cheap to replace. Hell, I have 3 spares in my garage that have just sort of migrated there somehow. Yeah I'm leaning towards it just being a casting flaw or if it is a crack it's so small as to not make a difference. In any case my local lord of the flies yard has 2 turbo volvos in it so I'll probably grab an intake just in case. I haven't seen the IATs get that high under load, usually no more than 3-5C above ambient. IATs, timing advance, coolant temp, all do exactly what they're supposed to under load. I really wish I could monitor the AFRs but Volvo didn't start installing wideband sensors until 01 I believe. I'm not entirely sure the PO didn't upgrade the turbo to an 18T (or possibly built a hybrid 16/18) when they did the tune, because you're right it should run out of puff around 16psi and just build massive heat past that, which I haven't really seen. As usual, more data is needed. Another thought I had is maybe the BPS is reading a little high. In other news the rear passenger shock mount broke last night so I guess ill be doing those soon. Do you happen to know if the coupe C70s are the same as the verts in that you have to go through the rear seat/remove the subwoofers to gain access to the mount? I assume they are but if there's an easier way on the coupe that'd be awesome. Terrible Robot fucked around with this message at 16:10 on Sep 8, 2016 |
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Sep 8, 2016 15:47
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No, coupe trunks go all the way up to the back seat. Shock mounts are in the trunk.
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Sep 8, 2016 19:54
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Nice!
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Sep 8, 2016 20:15
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Can anyone tell me where this piece of plastic is supposed to mount? I found it while changing spark plugs and can't for the life of me figure out where it is supposed to attach. https://jonhustead.smugmug.com/Other/Photo-stream/i-znDV7jW
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Sep 12, 2016 03:54
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powderific posted:Can anyone tell me where this piece of plastic is supposed to mount? I found it while changing spark plugs and can't for the life of me figure out where it is supposed to attach. https://jonhustead.smugmug.com/Other/Photo-stream/i-znDV7jW Ah! I remember this thing; the detent clip goes on the strut tower bar?; uh like this:  I need to clean my engine bay 
Blitter fucked around with this message at 04:39 on Sep 12, 2016 |
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Sep 12, 2016 04:34
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Holy poo poo, I found that thing dangling months ago and couldn't figure out where it went so I left it or zip tied it. Mind blown.
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Sep 12, 2016 15:02
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Man, I need to look closer as I thought I'd check around that area. Thanks.
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Sep 12, 2016 18:52
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Blitter is right and your picture actually shows the spot it needs: In the circled part will be a nub, it fits into the unused strut tower hole. Mine cracked years ago, so I drilled out the nub and zip tied it in place.
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Sep 12, 2016 20:53
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 Yeah this thing is definitely cracked. It only leaks enough to make the computer angry under sustained full boost. When it opens up the ecu sets a P1238 code and goes into semi-limp mode, throttle acts like it has no resolution below 20%, builds almost no boost until code is cleared. After code is cleared it drives perfectly normal until you hammer on it again. C'est la vie, good thing I've got a PCV rebuild kit sitting in my basement ready to go, and the updated check valve to boot. Hell I might even throw the phenolic spacer I bought years ago for the 855 on there while I'm at it.
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Sep 14, 2016 13:07
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Hi Volvo friends. I was hoping someone here could be of some help. My wife has a 2011 s40 (paid off) that she just took in for maintenance and apparently it needs a new oil trap (they want $750) and a replacement for a collapsed engine mount ($400). The car is out of warranty now and we kind of want a bigger car for family anyway so it seems like this might be a good time to trade it in and lease or buy something new like the XC60. The KBB book says her car should be valued at around 9,000-11,000 at the dealership. The guy there told her she could trade in the car without having to pay for any repairs for $9500 which seems fair given the circumstances. Right now volvo is running a lease deal on a XC60 T5 for $4,109 down and $429 a month for 24 months. When I did the math it seemed to me that the total cost would be $14,405 (I'm sure taxes and stuff will add to this later) - $9500-$11000 (depending how you value the repairs) = around $270 a month. The man she spoke with today said he could take the car for trade ($9500-$11000) and put her in a 2016 XC60 for $287 a month for 36 months. When I ran the math on that it seemed bonkers since that seems to me to be around $509 a month. Am I missing something here? Am I horrible at math? I also can't really tell if the repair costs are crazy or not (pretty ignorant about car stuff). I read some horror stories about the maintenance costs of keeping up a Volvo so I'm thinking a lease might be a good option if we don't switch to another car company. If anybody has some advice on the situation that would be super helpful. Thanks.
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Sep 16, 2016 05:26
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On the front of how the new volvos are holding up, I see that the V60 T5 Drive-E's are available in the high 20's with very low mileage. Any idea how these hold up regarding maintenance? I know it's not a camry but it's a hell of a lot more car too
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Sep 16, 2016 18:02
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So I'm finally back in a Volvo. I drove a 2008 Peugeot 308 SW for a couple of years and while it was very economic and roomy and well equipped and everything it also fell apart at every opportunity. Broken injectors, broken dpf, broken turbo, broken diesel additive system. And the interior looks like its twenty years old already. So I spend a whopping 900 bucks and got me a 1995 855. Its got the smallest engine (2.0 10V 126HP) and no extras whatsoever. No AC, no electric windows, no heated seats, no cruise control. Nothing! And I don't loving care because its a well kept Volvo (It has been used as a company car for 20 years and always got its inspections at the Volvo dealer) and even though its 13 years older than the Peugeot and has 100000 km more on the clock it just feels so much more reliable than that French garbage car. It has some small issues like pulsating brakes when I brake heavily and I can smell exhaust when the windows are open and I'm standing still or only moving slowly (cracked exhaust header?). Its all stuff I know how to fix though and nothing that can't wait till the next paycheck. Generally I'm happy though. I mean, headlight wipers! It doesn't get much better than that!
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Sep 18, 2016 14:32
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My 2005 S60 2.5T AWD is still performing very well, 18 months into my ownership. I have seen some people refreshing suspension, but haven't got there yet. Is is strongly recommended if I have no real negative symptoms? I recently replaced the fuel pressure sensor, which solved the intermittent MIL and crank-hard-start issue. Was starting to bog on acceleration, too. But no longer, now it flies down the highway again. It still sometimes shows 'reduced engine performance' in the display, but no MIL and no codes. Occasionally while cranking, the starter will stall. Like it's turning to crank before ignition, and then everything stops for a fraction of a second, then cranks over again and then starts. Once running, no issues. Starter dead spot? I hate that term as I don't know what the underlying physical failure would be. One more questions, hopefully easier: The 'regular maintenance due' warning has come on. All service is up to date, but I can't clear it. Can this be reset DIY?
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Sep 18, 2016 22:51
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mr.belowaverage posted:One more questions, hopefully easier: The 'regular maintenance due' warning has come on. All service is up to date, but I can't clear it. Can this be reset DIY? Yeah, I had to do the procedure on my car recently. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6qcU28mZgfY&t=75s
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Sep 18, 2016 23:31
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volvofriends, I have found myself with an '82 245 that I wish to daily drive I've been slowly addressing basic issues over the past few weeks, but I've ended up stuck on doing the motor mounts. I have a reasonable plan for supporting the engine - good floor jack - but I've been having a hell of a time getting to the bolts themselves. Specifically, I think I'm going to have to take apart the power steering hose and possibly some other stuff, just because i can't find an angle to sneak that wrench in on the driver side (not that the passenger bracket bolts are all out, either). Am I missing something huge here? Should I just quit being a baby and keep taking stuff apart?
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Sep 19, 2016 07:18
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mr.belowaverage posted:Occasionally while cranking, the starter will stall. Like it's turning to crank before ignition, and then everything stops for a fraction of a second, then cranks over again and then starts. Once running, no issues. Starter dead spot? I hate that term as I don't know what the underlying physical failure would be. Yup, starter dead spot. Underlying physical failure AIUI is a faulty contact on the commutator or a broken wire in one of the windings? someone correct me
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Sep 19, 2016 08:45
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americong posted:volvofriends, I have found myself with an '82 245 that I wish to daily drive Try taking the bracket off the crossmember rather than getting at the motor mount bolt. I can't remember if that works on 240s but it works on 7 and 9 series.
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Sep 19, 2016 19:31
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