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Is that Asus 950 2G set to continue to be the recommended no-additional-PCIe-power-connector Nvidia card? How likely is the release of a 75W 1000-series card?
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Aug 21, 2016 00:41
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The last case I bought was an NZXT H2 White Steel and it's by far the best case I've owned. I live in a 90 year old house with a lot of dust, and the thing is absolutely quiet at the highest fan setting, with a filtered, positive air flow inside - I open it twice a year to clean it, and there's hardly any accumulation. Everything gets trapped in the filters, which I clean regularly. Removable front fans, with an opening on the top for an additional fan if needed. Minimalist design without any extra windows or lights. Regular size tower, too. I'm going to be upgrading my PC by the end of the year - Are there any cases that are similar / considered successors to this thing? I might honestly just pull the parts out of this case and use it again when I upgrade.
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Aug 21, 2016 03:55
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This is my current PC: CPU: Intel Core i3-3220 Ivy Bridge Dual-Core 3.3 GHz LGA 1155 55W Motherboard: ASRock H77M LGA 1155 Intel H77 HDMI SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 Micro ATX RAM: CORSAIR ValueSelect 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1333 Video Card: Zotac GeForce GTX 970 4GB Monitor: Hanns-G HL227DBB 21.5" LED monitor 5ms Full HD 250 cd/m2 I definitely want to keep the video card since I just bought it last year, but everything else is from 2013. All I use my computer for is gaming and browsing. I've been playing around with PCPartPicker and came up with something like this: PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant CPU: Intel Core i5-6600 3.3GHz Quad-Core Processor ($213.99 @ SuperBiiz) Motherboard: MSI H170A PC Mate ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($97.99 @ SuperBiiz) Memory: Kingston HyperX Fury Black 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR4-2133 Memory ($38.99 @ NCIX US) Case: Fractal Design Define R5 (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case ($99.99 @ NCIX US) Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA GS 550W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($82.98 @ Newegg) Case Fan: Fractal Design GP14-WT 68.4 CFM 140mm Fan ($13.99 @ SuperBiiz) Total: $547.93 My overall budget is around $1500 and a new monitor is included in that budget. Will I see a noticeable improvement or should I put some more money into a CPU and GPU? I've been holding off on picking out a monitor until I see what I'm spending on upgrading the PC. I could potentially go up to $2000 if completely necessary. I don't really play very many demanding games, mostly MMOs and Overwatch.
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Aug 21, 2016 04:10
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vanbags posted:This is my current PC: What kind of monitor do you want to use? That's the real major thing to determine if you need to upgrade your 970. Either way, I'd get an SSD if you don't already have one, and drop down to an i5-6500 as the clockspeed difference is unnoticeable for your purposes.
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Aug 21, 2016 05:16
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Phlegmish posted:What's your monitor resolution and max refresh rate? i have a 1080p 120 hz and a 60 hz 1080p second monitor. I might get one of those curved 21:9 gysnc monitors but still undecided on that. I want to start doing twitch streaming and making lp's and such and maybe get back into photography which used to be a big hobby of mine. 7 TB storage I used for  and will probably transfer another 6 TB from this machine so probably 1 ssd and 4 hdd.
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Aug 21, 2016 05:26
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Neo_Crimson posted:What kind of monitor do you want to use? That's the real major thing to determine if you need to upgrade your 970. Either way, I'd get an SSD if you don't already have one, and drop down to an i5-6500 as the clockspeed difference is unnoticeable for your purposes. I mean the monitor I have now looks fine for me, but I've never had anything nicer to compare it to.
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Aug 21, 2016 06:18
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goodness posted:After 5 years it may be time to update something on my machine. The main thing will be to get an SSD. Next the HDD and Power Supply? The OP says those are suspect after 5 years so it is about time. I also need to get a bigger case, right now I have an Antec 300 case but its a little too small with a 290x in there. RAM is DD3 1600, would an upgrade be meaningful with my mobo/cpu? Thermal paste hasn't been applied between cooler & cpu since first putting it together.
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Aug 21, 2016 11:11
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IMO you should go 1) SSD 2) HDD (get a 2TB second one as a backup, they're cheap) 3) PSU 3.5) CPU/Mobo/RAM together while you're at it (there is no point buying new DDR3, it's a dying standard, unless you get someone's old high performance DDR3 for free just skip straight to DDR4-3000) Graphics depends on whether you want to play new games on ultra, but given 1080p you're probably ok for a while if you can dial down settings.
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Aug 21, 2016 11:32
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I CANNOT EJACULATE WITHOUT SEEING NATIVE AMERICANS BRUTALISED!
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90°C on the GPU at idle? Seems like you have some kind of virus that's mining on the GPU, there's no way even a 290X would idle at 90°C. I guess it could be a faulty reading in Speccy, so I would double check the temperature in the Radeon Settings overdrive panel.
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Aug 21, 2016 11:53
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I'm still using an i3-3220 in a socket 1155, would upgrading to an i5-3470 (same socket) bring any significant difference? I mean I see some people are selling them used for around 70€, but I'm not sure that's even worth it.
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Aug 21, 2016 12:51
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vanbags posted:My overall budget is around $1500 and a new monitor is included in that budget. Will I see a noticeable improvement or should I put some more money into a CPU and GPU? I've been holding off on picking out a monitor until I see what I'm spending on upgrading the PC. I could potentially go up to $2000 if completely necessary. I don't really play very many demanding games, mostly MMOs and Overwatch. MMOs can be notorious for being CPU bound and often make good use of multithreaded cores, so an upgrade to an i5 may help. OTOH if you're finding you need to reduce graphical options to get a consistent frame rate, you are likely bottlenecking on the GPU. Yes, the 970 is the most recent part, but it is still likely to be the bottleneck. GPU performance gains in the last generation have exceeded CPU gains over the last 3 or more. Compare benchmarks for games you want to play, but something like a RX480 8gb / 1060 / 1070 would be good options and ultra affordable.
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Aug 21, 2016 14:36
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If you look at task manager processes tab you'll probably find iehighutil with an internet explorer icon. That's a Bitcoin mining Trojan horse. Kill it, delete it, and your games will run better and your computer will be much quieter. If it's not iehighutil run malwarebytes to find out what it is.
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Aug 21, 2016 15:40
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Khablam posted:What issue are you trying to solve, are you getting poor performance in any particular titles? Agreed with most of this except a 480 or 1060 would be side-grades. If you want to upgrade from a 970, then a 1070 is your best bet.
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Aug 21, 2016 17:41
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HalloKitty posted:90°C on the GPU at idle? Seems like you have some kind of virus that's mining on the GPU, there's no way even a 290X would idle at 90°C. That wasn't idle, I was streaming some video. I'll double check the temp though online people say 90 is pretty standard for it. GutBomb posted:If you look at task manager processes tab you'll probably find iehighutil with an internet explorer icon. That's a Bitcoin mining Trojan horse. Kill it, delete it, and your games will run better and your computer will be much quieter. If it's not iehighutil run malwarebytes to find out what it is. Didn't see an iehighutil and I ran the malware again, I do it every week. Nothing popped up edit: It is idling at 74 and goes up to 90 for video and games from what I can see. goodness fucked around with this message at 18:05 on Aug 21, 2016 |
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Aug 21, 2016 17:58
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What's the best thing to do with old computer components? I'm planning to upgrade from a system I built in 2012. I don't really have need for a HTPC (and the Bitfenix Prodigy case is kind of a lame size for that anyway), and I don't think I can really make a sale or hand-me-down with it since one of the reasons I'm upgrading is severe hardware failures (hard drive stops getting recognized, random hard-lock bluescreens with the last forcing me to reformat). I would just shove it in a closet but that closet already has an even older build from 2007 and a monitor that no longer works
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Aug 21, 2016 18:41
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CharlieFoxtrot posted:What's the best thing to do with old computer components? I'm planning to upgrade from a system I built in 2012. I don't really have need for a HTPC (and the Bitfenix Prodigy case is kind of a lame size for that anyway), and I don't think I can really make a sale or hand-me-down with it since one of the reasons I'm upgrading is severe hardware failures (hard drive stops getting recognized, random hard-lock bluescreens with the last forcing me to reformat). I would just shove it in a closet but that closet already has an even older build from 2007 and a monitor that no longer works Give it to the local electronics recycling center/business, or strip all the parts that still work and give them to someone for free.
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Aug 21, 2016 18:43
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Is it pretty common for a fresh install of Windows to not even have Ethernet capability? I'm currently using my girlfriend's laptop to copy the installation disc that came with my motherboard to a thumb drive in the hopes that the correct drivers are on there. This is kind of frustrating given how 'optional' disc drives are these days.
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Aug 21, 2016 19:04
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DrNutt posted:Is it pretty common for a fresh install of Windows to not even have Ethernet capability? I'm currently using my girlfriend's laptop to copy the installation disc that came with my motherboard to a thumb drive in the hopes that the correct drivers are on there. This is kind of frustrating given how 'optional' disc drives are these days. With laptops? Certainly. Use another device to get the drivers for it and put them onto it.
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Aug 21, 2016 19:20
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DrNutt posted:Is it pretty common for a fresh install of Windows to not even have Ethernet capability? I'm currently using my girlfriend's laptop to copy the installation disc that came with my motherboard to a thumb drive in the hopes that the correct drivers are on there. This is kind of frustrating given how 'optional' disc drives are these days. If it's an old Windows on new hardware, yes. If it's a new Windows, sometimes. Use your phone/laptop to download the driver to something with a USB connector.
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Aug 21, 2016 19:21
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The biggest problem I've found is finding the right driver. I should have stuck with MSI because Gigabyte's driver download support appears to be garbage.
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Aug 21, 2016 19:29
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DrNutt posted:The biggest problem I've found is finding the right driver. I should have stuck with MSI because Gigabyte's driver download support appears to be garbage. Your motherboard spec sheet should state which ethernet controller you have. You can just download the appropriate driver from whoever makes the controller.
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Aug 21, 2016 19:45
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Khablam posted:What issue are you trying to solve, are you getting poor performance in any particular titles? As for performance issues, I can play mostly play on high settings but if I ramp the shadows or liquid detail up I get a noticeable screen tear, but I also play everything with v-sync disabled because I've heard it increases input lag. Just playing WoW right now with everything high except shadows and liquid I stay around 100 or more FPS.
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Aug 21, 2016 19:53
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vanbags posted:As for performance issues, I can play mostly play on high settings but if I ramp the shadows or liquid detail up I get a noticeable screen tear, but I also play everything with v-sync disabled because I've heard it increases input lag. Just playing WoW right now with everything high except shadows and liquid I stay around 100 or more FPS. If your computer already handles the games you are playing with excellent framerate then why upgrade? From what you've posted so far it sounds to me like you'd be best off if you save up your money for a better upgrade when your computer actually starts to show its age, ie isn't running well in games you actually play. The build you suggested is better than what you have now, yeah, but what you have now is already good.
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Aug 21, 2016 21:20
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vanbags posted:I also play everything with v-sync disabled because I've heard it increases input lag. Do you notice a difference?
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Aug 21, 2016 21:37
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blowfish posted:Your motherboard spec sheet should state which ethernet controller you have. You can just download the appropriate driver from whoever makes the controller. Awesome, thank you!
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Aug 21, 2016 21:53
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DrNutt posted:The biggest problem I've found is finding the right driver. I should have stuck with MSI because Gigabyte's driver download support appears to be garbage. Blowfish's suggestion should work. But if you can't figure it out otherwise you can always go to Device Manager, right click on any unknown device, choose Properties, go to Details-tab, select "Hardware IDs" from the Property-menu and make note of the VEN_ and DEV_ codes. Then go to PCIDatabase.com and search for the device. If it brand new hardware you may need to Google the IDs. It's usually preferable to get the drivers from the device manufacturer, they should be newer than the ones available from the computer or motherboard manufacturer.
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Aug 21, 2016 21:58
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Col.Kiwi posted:Why do you want to upgrade at all then? That's what he was getting at when he asked you what issue you're trying to solve.
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Aug 21, 2016 23:52
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vanbags posted:My biggest concern is some newer games coming out recommend better processors than I have like the WoW expansion this month that recommends an i5-3330. I don't want to have to drop my settings any lower than they already are and I'd like to potentially be able to max shadows all the way up. But if all that is bottlenecked by my GPU then I will probably just hold off like you suggest, if going from an i3-3220 to an i5-6500 isn't going to do me any favors paired with a GeForce GTX 970. If that's the recommended (not minimum) requirement that'll put you somewhere in the realm of maxing nearly everything that has a CPU impact. I'd still wait until you have an actual issue to solve before upgrading (or where new parts are 100% faster so it feels like you gained), but that's just me.
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Aug 22, 2016 01:33
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Trying to build a PC is giving me paralysis by analysis. I just want to game at 1440p and not feel like I'm being ripped off. It would be even better if I could just buy everything I needed at the Microcenter so that I don't have to wait for things. And I'd be happy if I can get everything (including monitor) for $1600 or less. But the budget is flexible. My birthday is coming up, and I just got a huge promotion at work. I've been using a 2010 iMac since... well, 2010, and the last year of it has not been great so this is my present to myself. I feel somewhat committed to an i5 6600k and a GTX 1070. I do not know why. I feel like the guy in the movie PI, or maybe like the Malkoviches in Being John Malkovich just meaninglessly chanting Malkovich Malkovich Malkovich. But mine is gtx 1070 gtx 1070 gtx 1070. Then I think maybe my choice of components is a reflection of myself. Middling. Mediocre. Never quite going all of the way or giving 100% effort. I should just get the i7 and the GTX 1080 (gently caress it, two of 'em), and... I don't know. Play Overwatch and emulators. Which is mostly an accurate use case. I play Hearthstone, Overwatch, and Heroes of the Storm. I'm going to play WoW Legion when it comes out so that I can remember why I quit again. And then a bunch of roguelikes, indie-games, emulators, and other poo poo that works fine on my current rig. Plus about 2 non-Blizzard triple A titles a year. Just whatever catches my eye. I'm going to gently caress heavily with VR as well, just as soon as my bank account recovers from the computer and monitor purchase. I also frequently play PC games on my TV with a steam controller. Right now in my bachelor pad the hookup is HDMI, but my gf and I are planning to move in together, and I anticipate my shameful gamebox being relegated to an office somewhere at which point it will have to be powerful enough to work with steamlink. I think anything that would work with VR could do steamlink too, but if not, it needs to. I probably should just print this out and hand it to the guy with the pony tail and wrist brace at microcenter. But I feel like he'd try to upsell me on a 2 year warranty that I don't need. I think I just want guidance. I feel at odds with the PC gaming universe. I want a cool m-ITX system that fits on my desk easily, is quiet as a mouse, and is made of nothing but rose gold colored brushed aluminum and USB ports (A and C!). The world wants to give me a phallic tower with a rave going on inside of it.
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Aug 22, 2016 03:07
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I know nothing
goodness fucked around with this message at 03:15 on Aug 22, 2016 |
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Aug 22, 2016 03:09
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goodness posted:$1600 feels like overkill for gaming at only 1440p Being able to crank it to 4K is a plus. It's the price of a 4k monitor that worries me. Also draw distance, shadows, etc are more important to me than resolution, and I'm certainly happy to spend less! I just don't know what I will get at various price points.
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Aug 22, 2016 03:10
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Gaming at 4K will go way past $1600, and not fit ITX, assuming you want high settings at 60 fps. 1440 gaming with a good gsync display can hit $1600, IMO.
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Aug 22, 2016 03:13
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Subjunctive posted:Gaming at 4K will go way past $1600, and not fit ITX, assuming you want high settings at 60 fps. 1440 gaming with a good gsync display can hit $1600, IMO. Is there an ideal build that people go to at the moment? ITX isn't a necessity, but I like it. However most of the ITX cases I like are like this one and they always end up obstructing the video card in some way. If something like that will work, it's definitely my preference.
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Aug 22, 2016 03:24
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There are cases much smaller than the Prodigy (which is actually quite large) that will still take full-size video cards. Silverstone RVZ02, NCASE M1 The problem is you can't SLI with ITX motherboards and even the 1080 would struggle for 4K 60fps. Maybe a Titan
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Aug 22, 2016 03:39
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CharlieFoxtrot posted:There are cases much smaller than the Prodigy (which is actually quite large) that will still take full-size video cards. Silverstone RVZ02, NCASE M1 Additional examples of good ITX cases that actually are pretty small (but still take almost any video card you could want): Silverstone SG13, Fractal Design Node 202, Fractal Design Node 304. "ITX" has become a marketing buzzword at this point so there are quite a few cases out there now which for some weird reason are ITX-only but are not actually small. ITX motherboards are tiny but there are certainly plenty of ITX-only cases out there now where the case is not especially small. Prodigy is a good example of a comically large ITX case, they even went on to release a version called Prodigy M which fits much larger mATX motherboards even though the case itself is exactly the same size. For those who would like a fairly small system but don't care if it is truly ITX small, there are some neat microATX cases out there. The smaller ones are as small or smaller than the silly big ITX cases like Prodigy. For example Silverstone SG10 supports mATX and has very broad compatibility overall, while being smaller than an ITX Bitfenix Prodigy.
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Aug 22, 2016 03:53
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Mr. Belding posted:Is there an ideal build that people go to at the moment? ITX isn't a necessity, but I like it. However most of the ITX cases I like are like this one and they always end up obstructing the video card in some way. If something like that will work, it's definitely my preference. Here's a 2560x1440 build using a small mini ITX case, you'll probably want a 1070 with a blower cooler for this case because they exhaust their heat outside of the case which is good for cases with very small internal volume. PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant CPU: Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($219.99 @ Newegg) CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-L9i 33.8 CFM CPU Cooler ($38.94 @ Newegg) Motherboard: ASRock Z170M-ITX/ac Mini ITX LGA1151 Motherboard ($110.98 @ Newegg) Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws 4 Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($74.99 @ Newegg) Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($157.95 @ Amazon) Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 1070 8GB Video Card ($419.95 @ B&H) Case: Fractal Design Node 202 HTPC Case ($79.99 @ SuperBiiz) Power Supply: Silverstone 500W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular SFX Power Supply ($94.99 @ B&H) Total: $1197.78 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-08-22 00:26 EDT-0400
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Aug 22, 2016 05:28
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MaxxBot posted:Here's a 2560x1440 build using a small mini ITX case, you'll probably want a 1070 with a blower cooler for this case because they exhaust their heat outside of the case which is good for cases with very small internal volume. Any advice if I were to go for mATX instead of ITX for a similar build? With a 1070, 6600K, and a SSD + old school magnetic drive edit: can this build accommodate another hard drive? I'd just get this then
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Aug 22, 2016 06:37
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If you want the smallest mITX case that'll still take any full-size dual slot GPU, I think the DAN A4-SFX wins out: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KvPyZARdwo8 Too bad it's made by one dude and isn't currently available. You can sign up on his website to be notified of when it's available again though!
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Aug 22, 2016 10:01
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I'm looking to buy myself a new gaming pc, and would like some input from goons more knowledgeable than myself. I'm thinking of getting the following items: CPU: Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($219.99 @ Newegg) CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-U12S 55.0 CFM CPU Cooler ($59.50 @ OutletPC) Motherboard: ASRock Z170 Pro4 ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($92.98 @ Newegg) Memory: 16GB Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($158.06 @ Newegg) Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 1070 8GB Video Card ($449.95 @ B&H) Case: Fractal Design Define R5 (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case ($99.99 @ NCIX US) Are there any parts here that I could or should replace with something else because it's cheaper or it gives more bang per buck? I will be overclocking it. Are there any RAM brands I should avoid, other than huge heatsinks? Also, I'm planninng on giving my old computer to my wife, but will keep the 650w psu in it for my new one. This means she'll be using a XFX 450W psu with my old computer, which should be fine according to this psu calculator. However, the 450w psu is missing a 6+2 pci-e pin for the gpu. My question is, can I use a converter, like this one and expect it to work fine, or should I get a new psu that actually has a 6+2 pin instead? Shaking lemur butt fucked around with this message at 13:39 on Aug 22, 2016 |
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Aug 22, 2016 12:41
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You can replace the cooler with a Cryorig H7 or Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO in increasing order of savings. You can also switch over to the Fractal Design Define S to save $35. You probably weren't using 5.25" bays anyway, right? As for RAM, I've never heard anyone outright recommend against a brand, but you might as well get something from the usual suspects (G. Skill, Corsair, Crucial, Kingston) since it's rare that doing otherwise will save you much.
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Aug 22, 2016 13:52
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