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Every time I turn it on it pulls like two cups of water from the bus. It's monsoon season right now and a dry car is glorious.
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Aug 7, 2016 04:39
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Nothing on this bus is square.   If I try to start it midday I'm doomed. But it will happily cool at night, and can keep up quite a bit throughout. Adding a small clip on fan to mix the air really, really helped. I also cut more vents in the floor between the batteries, under the bed, and added a second exhaust vent. I've also ducted the exhaust through the cabinet with 3/4 inch foam board, so the cabinet doesn't turn into a radiator like it was. I'll 3D print vent covers for the floor. I'm on AT for the guard right now and just RTV'd some screen over the holes to keep critters out due to lack of time. Next step is 135 degree corner molding, and lights.
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Aug 9, 2016 15:53
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I just looked at the pictures on a big screen and realized it makes the construction look super lovely. That's because it is, but I have ways of tarting it up. Now if only the farside battery will stop getting so hot. I've had to replace it once (good thing I had a spare.) I think the AC is cooking it, even though the AC itself is only moderately warm. There's an eight inch gap with air flowing between the two, but maybe it's radiative heating or something. I had two Optima batteries from 10/15 in parallel, but the nearside one got hot enough to bulge cells. I pulled it and after it cooled the bulges went down, but I don't trust it. I replaced it with one from 2/16, but that one's getting toasty, too. I changed the connections so ground goes to the nearside and pos goes to the farside. Shouldn't matter but  Maybe the battery that isn't getting hot has a super low internal resistance or something.I have the inverter/charger set to 15A max (either 15 or 55 through a DIP switch), with the batteries in parallel. The voltage on both batteries sits at maybe 13.4-13.7V after an hour or two of charging, but if I disconnect the hot battery it jumps up to 14.1-14.2V immediately. Queen_Combat fucked around with this message at 21:09 on Aug 9, 2016 |
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Aug 9, 2016 20:48
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Stoopid question because I'm am electrically challenged. Is the old battery dying? Pulling enough current from the new battery to heat it up?
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Aug 10, 2016 12:58
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I think it's just mismatched batteries. I pulled the one that was getting hot and replaced it with another that had a higher resting voltage (12.6 volts), and now the nearside battery is getting warm. This just goes to show the adage "don't mix old and new" batteries holds true. Unfortunately, with both "old" (10/15) batteries, one fails hard and starts bulging. I have two sets of Optomas (4 total), 2 from 10/15 and 2 from 2/16. One of the 2/16 batteries has failed and has a permanent bulge, and one of the 10/15 batteries fails and bulges, but the bulge drops when it cools. Right now I have one of the 10/15 and one of the 2/16 batteries, and while the 10/15 gets pretty toasty on a heavy charge, it doesn't bulge or vent, so I'm going to keep it as-is. Hopefully a few cycles or so will help equalize them. They're very expensive batteries normally, so I'm glad I could salvage two working ones from a few "bad" sets. They were allegedly "bad," which is why I got them for so cheap. In other news, I have the AC working to the point where it will actively cool the bus at night, and will keep you from dying during the Phoenix days. I added two more 4 inch exhaust vents in addition to the one 7 inch exhaust. Shedding heat was the main problem, and this is all I can squeeze in there. I promise more pictures tomorrow when the sun is out. You guys won't be happy with my
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Aug 14, 2016 06:50
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Geirskogul posted:I would save up for the FireBlock-style foam The only difference between Great Stuff and Fire-block Great Stuff is the latter is bright orange and easier for a building inspector to see when he or she is verifying that it's been installed in holes in the fireblocking. You're fine using the regular stuff in your van.
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Aug 14, 2016 15:18
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That's good (scary) to know. Welp, when this goes up, it's going up fast. Random picture dump:   I installed this one when the metal was still hot from grinding, and it melted. New one printing now:    
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Aug 14, 2016 21:43
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Can we get a sticker collage update?
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Aug 15, 2016 00:05
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I don't think I have any new ones, but I went out just now for you and took pictures. Consider this "Sticker Collage Archival Recording (or SCAR): 14 AUG 2016." Driver's Side:  Passenger Side:  Rear Window:  Also, I used some scrap wood (previous door for the underbed storage) and made a table:  3D printed hinges:  Flip-out support:  It's for very light things, like drinks or maybe a computer (with the keyboard in my lap, Logitech KR400 wireless keyboard/touchpad), that's it. Will do nicely to hold a tablet for watching stuff, though. I went out and ordered one of these after the recent mention of it:  And also one of these, because the face one I have is fading badly after only three months:  Also maybe this one:  Any ideas for more? Queen_Combat fucked around with this message at 03:04 on Aug 15, 2016 |
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Aug 15, 2016 01:09
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I've been running bulbs in the front, because no electronic, or "LED," flasher was working. They would all flash continuously when hooked up. I tried cheap ones, I tried more expensive ones, and I tried high-draw (12 watts measured) LED bulbs, but nothing would work. Only incandescents would work on the front. Today, I spent some time after drill (they let me go home at noon... and I decided to use the spare few hours) I traced the load wire from the flasher to the hazard light switch. The hazard light switch uses the turn signal flasher, and the way it's wired up, the turn signal goes through the hazard switch before going to the turn signal stalk. The stalk chooses which side gets the flash. The hazard switch itself is one bad motherfucker. I mean, look at all of those spades  Thinking that something was wrong with the hazard switch, I unplugged each wire one-by-one to see if any would stop the constant turn signal flashing. None worked. I disassembled the hazard switch, just in case, and cleaned and lubed everything with dielectric grease, again hoping there was a phantom trace of carbonized grease causing a resistance. Again, nothing. I started tracing wires from the hazard switch itself. I found that the one labeled "Fuse #1" on the diagram actually went to a random spade connector in the wiring loom.  It was that standard "That loving PO"-type thing where they stripped some wire, jammed it in the spade connector, and jammed the connector into the loom. Ensuring that 1: the connection will be lovely and intermittent with any corrosion, and 2: the spade connector is going to be loose and hosed up after you fix their hack. I pulled the wire bodge, re-bent the spade connector so it was tight on it's blade again, and tested everything. No more constant relay clicking, and everything else seems to work. Turn signals, running lights, brake lights, hazards with the vehicle off, etc. Since everything worked (even the hazard switch standby illumination key-on engine-off), I unplugged the wire from the hazard switch and threw it in the glovebox with a white electrical tape label, "Random Hazard Switch Wire." The only downside to today's endeavor (unrelated to the hazard switch wire) is that I had to temporarily disconnect the dash turn signal indicator. VW did the standard thing back in the day by only having one turn signal indicator bulb, and it's polarity changes back and forth depending on which way you move the turn signal stalk. A lot of LED "turn signal" bulbs actually show full brightness all the time, even when you're just using your running lights. Instead of brightening when you hit the turn signal, they dim when you hit the turn signal. This is especially true for so-called "CAN bus" LED bulbs, because most of them don't have the surface area or heatsink to have an actual resistive or high-wattage load all of the time, and can only handle the intermittent heat of a turn signal resistor (fooling the car in thinking that the turn signal bulb is functional, without using a "power resistor"). In addition, a lot of these old-style turn signal indicators will use the primary filament winding as the "ground," as this simplifies turn signal switch construction, and minimizes extra wiring. With these bulbs (and with super cheap non "CAN bus" LED bulbs due to lovely construction), having an switching-polarity incandescent turn signal indicator is functionally the same as having a straight short between the primary and secondary filaments of a bulb. On an incandescent, this is no problem, as a stray 4 volts here or there is no issue, and the bulb still brightens when you illuminate the secondary filament (while the primary filament dims). But with the LED bulbs, this means that using the standard turn signal indicator without setting up a diode bridge or something means that your turn signals don't work. You have a bright bulb, and when you hit the turn signal, your turn signal indicator bulb essentially shorts out both "filament" pins on the LED bulb, and it does nothing. The relay clicks, but you don't get any alternating brightness. So, for now to make it work, I disconnected the wire going up to the turn signal indicator from the flasher. I think if I add some diodes inside the turn signal stalk I can permanently fix the small issue. But, my electronic turn signal relay is one of those that beeps when the signal is on, and I rely more on the sound than the dashboard anyway. Queen_Combat fucked around with this message at 23:17 on Aug 19, 2016 |
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Aug 19, 2016 23:04
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Exhaust came in. Had some wrap to spare. EMPI exhausts are known for disintegrating in a few years' time anyway, and I'm missing the main exhaust heat shield. It sucks when the only replacement is aftermarket garbage, but whatevs. 
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Aug 20, 2016 19:34
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The bus has been leaking more and more oil, and I think it's the oil pump install I did. So, I tore everything down to get to the oil pump. (Pictured: Hello darkness my old friend) I used some Permatex thread sealer and sealed around the oil pump, and the threads of the oil pump bolt. Really it didn't look like there was much wet around it, but I can't find any other place the oil would be coming from, and the oil pump was the last thing I touched. Also suspect was the fan hub seal. When I replaced it back in September, I cracked the flange that holds the seal on, and did a quick repair with JB weld.  It wasn't obviously leaking, but I replaced the O-ring on the tapered fan hub shaft anyway, and reinforced the are around the cracked seal with Quick Steel putty, just in case (not pictured). Next, I installed the new exhaust. The old one is leaky all over (and it's original), and the main baffle inside has fallen out and rattles around. Plus it is very heavy.  So, on went the new exhaust.  I did have to break out the angle grinder and trim the tow hook flange a little.   With my past experiences with exhaust wrap, I've got maybe six months before it all flakes off in a cloud of fiberglass and "lava rock." Since on this car the exhaust is behind me instead of in front of me where it can shower fiberglass dust into the cabin vents, I don't care 
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Aug 20, 2016 21:50
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I've used more than 50% of the caulk-gun sized tube of red RTV. I think I have a problem 
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Aug 21, 2016 21:01
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Nah, you have a Volkswagen.
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Aug 22, 2016 05:10
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But I repeat myself 
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Aug 22, 2016 05:13
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Yeah, and that problem is using red instead of The Right Stuff.
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Aug 22, 2016 05:14
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I can't find a high temp version. E: right stuff says 450 continuous, permatex red says 550 continuous, 650 peak. I do like it for other things, though. Queen_Combat fucked around with this message at 07:07 on Aug 22, 2016 |
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Aug 22, 2016 05:18
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It's all high temp, anything your red can do it can do better (and it cures way faster).
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Aug 22, 2016 06:53
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Still swear by ultra copper for most things, but this high temp red is working...okay. If I accidentally heat it up before it cures it never cures and stays goopy, but it won't burn. Strange. A lot of stuff is put on hold right now, as I'm saving up money for a new longblock. I have no oil pressure at idle after the engine gets hot, but putting it on "high idle," (ie: the throttle is a little sticky and I can get it to hold at 1300 RPM or so) it'll hold 5-10. Good pressure when cold (maxes out the 80 PSI VDO gauge), but I still don't trust it. Doesn't help that the VDO gauge pings the light at 6 PSI and the stock sender was 1.5-2  . There are leaks from the case split (as far as I can tell, it's pretty slow but marks every spot I park with 4-5 drops). Plus, all the new longblocks you can buy, while they cost about $2k and have a $600 core and $300 round-trip shipping, have hydraulic lifters. I really want hydraulic lifters. I know that $3k is getting into the territory for a Subaru or Ford Zetec swap, but it'll be a straight longblock change instead of having to spend months engineering and redneck building. There's a reason shop subaru swaps cost $5-10k.Rebuilding the engine is at least $1800 in parts, plus time, and that doesn't include machining / line boring. And I wouldn't have hydraulic lifters. I'm treating the engine right now like I'm treating the beetle's cracked (on the passenger side) windshield: it's a bonus, and while I'll take care of it properly, I don't want to dump much more money into it. In cheaper news, stickers.   
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Aug 28, 2016 00:19
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Whack a 2.0 out of a '78 in there and get hydro lifters and more power to boot.
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Aug 28, 2016 09:57
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I've scoured the junkyards around here, and buses simply don't exist. Which is what I'd expect. What do you guys think about a (total) $3k for a rebuilt 2.0 longblock with hydraulic lifters? I think it'd get me another 75-100k out of it, and that's enough to last me another decade.
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Aug 28, 2016 10:20
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Who did the rebuild? I assume ACVW motors are like Subaru motors where J. Random Dickhole will just make them worse after they split the case.
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Aug 28, 2016 16:28
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I mean I'm planning on getting one from a reputable shop. They're all old school, 50-year-old shops with six weeks of lead time. And it's less a rebuild, and more a new engine using an old case as a starting point. The case is cleaned, all bolt holes are helicoil'd, it's line bored, and the smog holes are TIG'd over and they give you options of what type of hole setup you want. New rods, pistons, cylinders. Rebuilt heads with my choice of exhaust port style (VW changed in 74, so I'd request the old round ports). My choice of flywheel style. Then it's run for a few hours, and I'm the sucker that would pay the extra $25 to have the video of the hot run emailed to me. The engine I've got is a floor sweep special. Mismatched heads, everything.
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Aug 28, 2016 19:53
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Geirskogul posted:I'm the sucker that would pay the extra $25 to have the video of the hot run emailed to me Sounds like the sort of thing they'd send as a VHS tape in a plain brown envelope with a generic company name as the return address.
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Aug 28, 2016 22:40
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Geirskogul posted:I mean I'm planning on getting one from a reputable shop. They're all old school, 50-year-old shops with six weeks of lead time. And it's less a rebuild, and more a new engine using an old case as a starting point. The case is cleaned, all bolt holes are helicoil'd, it's line bored, and the smog holes are TIG'd over and they give you options of what type of hole setup you want. That's a poo poo load of labor, 3k doesn't sound too bad. Is it worth putting 3k into the bus for you?
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Aug 29, 2016 08:03
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I'm well into sunk cost territory. I started with a vehicle that's welded together from at least six donors, with moderate rust in places (clearly sat on the ground sans axles at some point), and a lot of issues. But the headliner was nearly perfect  I've repaired or replaced the entire suspension, brakes, bearings, and driveshafts. All steering components minus the tie rods have been replaced, the electrics now work, and the whole slew of campervan additions cost a pretty penny, despite the outcome. Also the windows and seals all around, minus the two rearmost ones. All interior panels, insulation (there wasn't any), intake and exhaust. The only original things left of note are the engine/transmission, and the dragon. It's the bus of theseus. Since it's late at night, and I don't have to work tomorrow, I'm in what I call my "creative primetime." Too awake to sleep, too tired and late to do any real work or make noise, and too scared to start drinking after midnight. So, I'm designing an oil separator for the bus, and also the Enfield. I want to sell the Enfield soon, but it has always (from new) had so much blowby due to a super lovely oil breather design that even the dumbest buyer would be put off. Seriously, google "Enfield AVL oil breather" for issues - in the top 10 results is my youtube video from seven years ago. (Got a new engine whole, under warranty, but it had the same issue -- dealer refused a refund then suddenly went under anyway).  E: view it in 3D here: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1742157 Also jamming out to Moulettes. Whoever linked this a few months ago in the chat thread was a genius. Very difficult to find folk/light rock nowadays. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z7xuCQGX9iU Queen_Combat fucked around with this message at 09:53 on Aug 29, 2016 |
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Aug 29, 2016 08:55
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Turns out your exhaust is quieter when you remember to tighten down all of the bolts. And replace the bolts that had since fallen off because you forgot to tighten them down. Also, found a steering wheel cover I like. I'm tired of burning my hands on 40-year-old plastic -- I'd rather burn my hands on rich corinthian leather.   I also found a good combination of batteries. They seemed dead (<10 volts) but after a few days of CAREFUL charging, monitoring battery temperatures so I don't blow a cell, I'm good.  My old battery combos all had at least one battery that was a charge sink, where above 12.6 volts or so the battery would stop charging and instead would just get really hot. Like a shorted cell, but not an actual fully shorted one. These will get up to 14.2 easy on the single 100W solar panel, meaning the charger is seeing less than an amp of draw and is actually raising the voltage 
Queen_Combat fucked around with this message at 23:32 on Aug 29, 2016 |
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Aug 29, 2016 22:11
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You don't need to justify spending money on a project vehicle to us! You want it then do it! On the plus side, I can't imagine that a bus is a bad project vehicle to spend cash on. Even if you sell up in the future you're surely gonna get quite a lot of it back due to demand. That's what I like to tell myself about my camper too.... Geirskogul posted:Also jamming out to Moulettes. Whoever linked this a few months ago in the chat thread was a genius. Very difficult to find folk/light rock nowadays. I think that was probably me as I've been to see them a few times this year. Glad you're enjoying them! I also often find myself listening to them at night in my creative prime time (I can't think of a better term for it!)
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Aug 29, 2016 23:32
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Corinth is known for its leather! I kinda want to put proper leather covers on both my WJ and CR-V. The WJ is leather from the factory but it's got a lot of little nicks and scratches. CR-V has plastic, though a used factory EX wheel might be a better choice.
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Aug 30, 2016 04:51
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I keep forgetting that this is magic. Except I did gently caress up and printed it before I fully thought it through.  Now the draining oil won't be forced backwards along upward-moving air pathways, and the drain hole (bottom) is separate from the air intake hole (bottom side).
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Aug 30, 2016 05:31
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That makes more sense, I wondered about the first one but didn't understand enough to question it. And once again you're making me want a 3d printer.
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Aug 30, 2016 10:50
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Finished printing the thing, waiting on another free day to try to install it. I've run out of motivation.  On the CRV front,  my fiancee called me as I was in the shower getting ready for work, saying that her car died completely. She can start it, but "all the electrics shut off" right after starting.I didn't know what to expect, so I jumped out of the shower, and loaded up the beetle with a car battery, jumper cables, and assorted tools. Got there, and after testing learned that I could keep the car running by holding the key halfway between "run" and "start," indicating a problem with the ignition switch. I tore down the steering column on the side of the road, and discovered that there was a safety needle stuck into the wires coming off the ignition switch  I noted which wires it was puncturing, and removed it. The car acted the same. I replaced the needle, and the car ran just fine  . After getting home from work that night, I discovered that the first gen CRV had the ignition switches recalled for an internal failure, with the car shutting off randomly (and eventually totally, unless you held the key halfway between the two positions, like I discovered) as the listed symptom. Here's a picture of some very dirty hands, showing that the needle was pulling some current after I replaced it. It must have been in there for quite a while, allowing air and moisture in, letting the copper wires corrode. My replacing it may have caused it to just barely function again, with a high resistance connection.   A new switch is on the way, and as a temporary measure (it's her only vehicle - she's selling the motorcycle), I soldered a big fat wire right between the two contacts on the back of the switch. It'll get her to work just fine if a safety needle was working for x-years prior.
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Sep 5, 2016 03:03
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I can't even comprehend. The laziness and stupidity of that "fix" borders on brilliant. PO was a genius (jackass)!
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Sep 5, 2016 03:10
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Recalls are free. I don't get why they did that.
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Sep 5, 2016 05:19
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I wonder if it was a field expedient fix that they forgot about. Or called somebody in to fix it, he "fixed it" and took the $50 or whatever, and bounced. Also do recalls have an end date? I sent an inquiry to a local Honda dealership and they told me to pound sand. I mean, the part is only $35 on Amazon (already on the way), but I thought I'd give it a shot.
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Sep 5, 2016 05:22
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CharlesM posted:Recalls are free. I don't get why they did that. Probably one of those "need the car today, part won't be in for a month" situations
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Sep 5, 2016 05:25
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That's an impressive hack. Voting for field expedient fix to make the wife happy, then forgot about it immediately afterward.
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Sep 5, 2016 05:34
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Geirskogul posted:I wonder if it was a field expedient fix that they forgot about. Or called somebody in to fix it, he "fixed it" and took the $50 or whatever, and bounced. Yeah I bet someone got stranded, fixed it that way to get home, and promptly forgot about it because now it works! I have done that to myself several times with similar temporary repairs.
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Sep 5, 2016 15:01
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New switch arrived today, I'll install it when she gets home. Also, more stickers! KSP is good. CafePress bumper stickers are bad. DO NOT BUY.  The weeb corner grows stronger  Goon-supplied stickers are the best  Figured I'd put the massive five-battery bank into use, and install an always-on rear dashcam.  I spent some time looking over the first day's footage, to estimate file size and recording time. Turns out people DO NOT LIKE cameras, even in the lot that has (fake) signs at the entrance that say "CAMERAS IN USE AT ALL TIMES THIS IS NOT A PUBLIC AREA." Got a lot of gawkers. A front dashcam, nobody bats an eye at (judging by how often I back in with the cams forwards). I asked the people who park directly behind the bus, though, and all five families were A-OK with the camera pointing at their car at all times, so suck it, random people who walk through the lot at 3AM and dig through the trash. I also changed the resolution from 1080p to 720p, as it's that cheap $35 Amazon cam and it has a poo poo lens anyway. Tripled my recording time on a 32GB SD card from 3 to over 9 hours. I also bent up a coat hangar and made use of the cracked rear hatch panel. Had to cut sideways an inch or so, but this bit is hidden by the mattress and bed frame anyway   Lets you open it from the inside, regardless of whether or not it's locked. I think it's a good safety and convenience feature, and it's a shame VW only offered it on Euro westfalias.
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Sep 7, 2016 00:51
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| # ? May 14, 2024 13:53 |
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Just loving around    (filename  )  
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Sep 15, 2016 10:54
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