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Does extreme heat cut how much current a car battery can put out? I drove up to my school and left the car sitting out in 92 degree heat and direct sunlight for about an hour. It took two tries to start it after that and it sounded like it was turning over slower than normal speed. The battery is new and the charging system seems to be working (was staying around 14.2 volts during the drive back home). Voltage at the battery with the car off and key out is 12.85, 12.65 with the car off and key in the on position. Got the same measurements at the OBD port with a multimeter.
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Aug 24, 2016 20:30
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The Door Frame posted:So it's not an overheating piece of poo poo with awful handling? My dad brought up the Nader thing when I asked him, but he also said they were prone to huge mechanical failures. According to Wikipedia, almost 1.8 million of these things were produced, so did people just collectively decide to not acknowledge them anymore? They were overly complicated pieces compared to GM's other offerings. Chances are if you fancied buying some air cooled rear engine goodness you would take the more tried and tested route of getting something German, and if you fancied Chevy there are a million better options that are more representative of that marque from that time period. It's pretty much a case of right product, wrong company/time and there are plenty of examples of those kinds of cars that have fallen out of the public consciousness.
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Aug 24, 2016 20:38
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SperginMcBadposter posted:Does extreme heat cut how much current a car battery can put out? I drove up to my school and left the car sitting out in 92 degree heat and direct sunlight for about an hour. It took two tries to start it after that and it sounded like it was turning over slower than normal speed. The battery is new and the charging system seems to be working (was staying around 14.2 volts during the drive back home). Voltage at the battery with the car off and key out is 12.85, 12.65 with the car off and key in the on position. Got the same measurements at the OBD port with a multimeter. Electrical resistance (including the battery's internal resistance) goes up with temperature, but so does the rate of chemisty. Heat makes batteries degrade faster over time, but generally they make more output when warm. You'd have to hook up an ammeter and measure current to really see what's going on. Heat can increase the resistance in the starter cables (reducing the current they'll handle), so depending how old your blue car is, if they're already marginal due to corrosion the heat could be pushing it over the line. Re "extreme" heat, your engine bay can get to nearly 200 while the engine's running, even parked in direct sunlight it would still be cooling off compared to running. The Door Frame posted:So it's not an overheating piece of poo poo with awful handling? My dad brought up the Nader thing when I asked him, but he also said they were prone to huge mechanical failures. According to Wikipedia, almost 1.8 million of these things were produced, so did people just collectively decide to not acknowledge them anymore? Well, it was a mostly-aluminum, aircooled, sometimes turbocharged flat 6 designed by GM in the late 1950s, some degree of unreliability is expected compared to the small blocks that they made a billion of and had plenty of time to iron out the wrinkles. I doubt handling was noticeably worse than any other American car of the era, but I've never driven one so I couldn't say; Don Yenko did race them for years with pretty good success before making his famous Camaros, take that as you will. Honestly, I think it comes down to this: While a unibody, rear-engine, turbocharged, aluminum, aircooled-powered sport sedan appeals to car nerds like us, to the muscle-car guys who made the mystique, it didn't have a veeeeee-8 so who gives a gently caress.
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Aug 24, 2016 20:52
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Hi all. I am new to this whole car-having thing having recently purchased a 2014 Hyundai Accent in a sweet Robocop Blue. Paint Color: Clearwater Blue Paint Code: T9U There are a couple of small places where the paint was damaged and I need help going about fixing it. Scratches on plastic parts (such as the bumper) shouldn't be much more than an aesthetic issue, but there is one spot on the hood edge and one on a door frame where the metal has been exposed and rust began to form. What do I need in order to touch it up? A light sanding to remove surface rust and then a touch-up paint of some sort followed by clear coat? I punched the info on PaintScratch.com and it spat out a bunch of kits, paints and paint pens; is there any real difference between spray, pen or brush? I'm thinking paint pens (base and clear coat) for the small metal dings and spray on the larger scratches on the bumper. This is completely new to me and I certainly appreciate any input. Thanks!
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Aug 24, 2016 21:40
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Ok, so legitimate safety issues, a bizarre engine, an unfamiliar setup, and its low power got a sporty economy car buried in history by the rise of Muscle and Pony cars? What a shame, the second generation ones are really pretty
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Aug 24, 2016 22:37
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The corvair corsair is a beast that handles well. It could have been a high end Corvette. https://youtu.be/3hKn8idEaZE
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Aug 24, 2016 23:12
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pahuyuth posted:The passenger turn signal/brake light is out (and all the others are fast-blinking) on my daughter's 2006 Chevy Malibu due to a blown brake light socket. I got a replacement socket (well, sort of... it's just a generic socket but the parts store said it should work with the bulb), but it has 3 wires whereas the original blown socket has 5 wire leads. The replacement has 3 white wires, labelled A,B,C and the original has 4 black wires, one green and I can barely make out A,B,C on the socket itself. Likely not. Those sockets are intended for simple replacements where its just the basic plug or you are adding in a light somewhere and need a socket. You might hit up a local junkyard for the harness for a quick solution.
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Aug 25, 2016 00:39
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My 2006 Ford Focus ZX3 (2.0L because that matters on parts sites) needs new brake pads. Only front, because the rear has drums and I'm not touching them. If I buy sub-$20 pads from rockauto then they'll be cheaper (after $6 shipping) than anything in the local auto parts stores (autozone, advance, o'reilly). So I'm looking at the Bosch BE1044H pads from this list, if the link works. Anyone have a reason I should avoid these or buy something else?
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Aug 25, 2016 02:24
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cephalopods posted:My 2006 Ford Focus ZX3 (2.0L because that matters on parts sites) needs new brake pads. Only front, because the rear has drums and I'm not touching them. You could also get the centric ceramic ones. there the same price and a better pad with them being ceramic. just go easy for a while when they are first on the car. Try not to do any harsh braking or aggressive driving. Ive found ceramic pads like to be gently broken in. Where as old metallic pads liked a real rough and toumble first drive to set the pads.
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Aug 25, 2016 02:46
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cephalopods posted:My 2006 Ford Focus ZX3 (2.0L because that matters on parts sites) needs new brake pads. Only front, because the rear has drums and I'm not touching them. Those will likely be no better or worse than any other pad from the economy section. Also engine size matters for that year range ('05-'07) because the only other engine was a 2.3L that came in the ST trim, which uses significantly larger front brakes.
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Aug 25, 2016 02:52
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Buy midgrade locally over $6 difference. If they are wrong the shipping back will ruin it. Also, drums aren't that big of a deal. Usually just takes a flat head and needle-nose to do.
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Aug 25, 2016 02:54
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Geoj posted:Those will likely be no better or worse than any other pad from the economy section. Also you have a different 2.0L and transmission then the base model.
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Aug 25, 2016 03:04
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Depending on how long the drums have been sealed, a rubber mallet might come in handy, but they're not terribly difficult to changeChristobevii3 posted:The corvair corsair is a beast that handles well. It could have been a high end Corvette. You know, that's the first thing that crossed my mind when I first saw one, but seeing a completed setup, I hate it. I know that it would be a sin to cut one out of a 993, but an M64/60 would be right at home in the back of that little thing.... E: Hahaha, $38k for one of those engines The Door Frame fucked around with this message at 04:20 on Aug 25, 2016 |
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Aug 25, 2016 04:17
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wargames posted:Also you have a different 2.0L and transmission then the base model. You're probably thinking about the pre-US facelift MkI (2000-2004), which had the older SPI SOHC 2.0 as well as the more modern Zetec DOHC 2.0 which used different manual gearboxes (but the same automatic IIRC.) The US facelift MkI had the same engine/transmissions in all models and trims except the ST.
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Aug 25, 2016 05:09
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The Door Frame posted:Depending on how long the drums have been sealed, a rubber mallet might come in handy, but they're not terribly difficult to change Still placing in autocross too. Here's Jay's take https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eTGayn3Y800
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Aug 25, 2016 05:11
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The Door Frame posted:What the hell is the deal with the Corvair? How the gently caress did an American, 1960's rear engine, air cooled, sporty compact fly under the radar? My grandfather used to talk endlessly about his cars, he had a pretty much every economy class GM car at some point and at least half a dozen Beetles, but I have never seen, let alone heard of the Corvair From the outside, they look pretty normal. The only weird part is the long trunk. So.. they do fly quite under the radar. They also weren't made for long. Part of their end of production was the mustang. When the mustang came out, GM decided they had to have a directly competing car, and so was born the Camaro. The Corvair's slot in the lineup was "right there" so.. it was dropped. Enourmo posted:The Corvair got a bad reputation (partly deserved, but not nearly as bad as it got). The Door Frame posted:Ok, so legitimate safety issues, a bizarre engine, an unfamiliar setup, and its low power got a sporty economy car buried in history by the rise of Muscle and Pony cars? What a shame, the second generation ones are really pretty I wouldn't even say that. The maneuver that caused the corvair to do it's thing, would cause almost any car to spin. IIRC it's essentially a Scandinavian flick. The car wasn't even low powered. They really did get the claimed horsepower, in an era of seriously inflated horsepower numbers. Their only real reliability issue was the alternator and fan belt. It took a long nasty path from the crank to the top of the engine. And much like a beatle, the belt can break, and the car doesn't stop, for a long time. They could also pull wheelies.... Especially if you pulled the 60lb of ballast out of the front of the car.
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Aug 25, 2016 15:05
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Corvairs are pretty cars, remind me a little of Triumph Dolomites and weirdo Japanese stuff like the Hino Contessa
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Aug 25, 2016 17:17
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The Door Frame posted:So it's not an overheating piece of poo poo with awful handling? My dad brought up the Nader thing when I asked him, but he also said they were prone to huge mechanical failures. According to Wikipedia, almost 1.8 million of these things were produced, so did people just collectively decide to not acknowledge them anymore? To be clear, the handling issues are primarily a first-generation Corvair issue, but the problems are not unique to it (there were other cars that used swing-axle suspension at the time as well). Swing-axle allows for cheap RWD IRS, but it's awful:  The second-generation Corvair fixes most of the handling issues since it has a proper IRS. It's also much prettier. The first-gen Corvair was probably somewhat deserving of the trashing Nader gave it, but it was also singled out by virtue of being the biggest target. You're going to make a lot more news in the '60s taking down General Motors than you are taking down VW.
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Aug 25, 2016 18:32
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IOwnCalculus posted:To be clear, the handling issues are primarily a first-generation Corvair issue, but the problems are not unique to it (there were other cars that used swing-axle suspension at the time as well). Swing-axle allows for cheap RWD IRS, but it's awful: As long as there are travel limiting straps on it, it's no so bad... And many of cars esteemed for their good handling have simple swing axle designs. Mercedes, Triumph, Datsun, and others. Similar front suspensions were on ford trucks through.. I think the 90's. I suppose i'm just all in a tizzy because (twelve years after reading it..) I still am not happy with unsafe at any speed.
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Aug 25, 2016 19:15
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Nerobro posted:Similar front suspensions were on ford trucks through.. I think the 90's. Twin I-beams are a little better, because instead of being mounted outboard of the diff, each arm is mounted on the opposing side of the frame. That means more length to take up the wheel travel, which reduces the angle that it rotates at full droop. Still, there's a reason no variation on swing axles is used anywhere, on any vehicle, anymore. It's a half-rear end compromise between solid axles and IRS that takes the biggest drawbacks of both and produces a result that's worse than either.
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Aug 25, 2016 19:22
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Nerobro posted:As long as there are travel limiting straps on it, it's no so bad... I could be remembering this horribly wrong but I vaguely recall that the original engineers were aware of the issue and the initial corvair design had a rear anti roll bar precisely to act as a travel limiting strap and prevent it from killing you in a corner, it was subsequently taken out to get the price point down and magically it then wanted to kill you. I'm pretty sure GM just put the roll bar back in when remedying existing corvairs. Edit: So I partially remembered this wrong. GM was aware of the issue but it was a front roll bar and the purpose was basically to make it so it would understeer and wash out way before before the car jack knifed on you. The final fix was travel limiting straps coupled with a front roll bar although some sources seem to think the front roll bar was a bandaid fix and ultimately unnecessary once the real issue was addressed. F1DriverQuidenBerg fucked around with this message at 22:04 on Aug 25, 2016 |
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Aug 25, 2016 19:41
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Any tips on getting my auto tranny fluid changed? My '13 S60 (with 'lifetime' fluid) has about 60k miles and I'm starting to get a little nervous. Half the sources online say to leave it alone, the other half reccomend a change (but not a flush). I've reached out to several mechanics in my area and they all either only offer a flush or don't want to touch it at all.
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Aug 25, 2016 19:44
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Augmented Dickey posted:Any tips on getting my auto tranny fluid changed? My '13 S60 (with 'lifetime' fluid) has about 60k miles and I'm starting to get a little nervous. Half the sources online say to leave it alone, the other half reccomend a change (but not a flush). I've reached out to several mechanics in my area and they all either only offer a flush or don't want to touch it at all. Hey I just picked up an old S40 from 2003. How have you liked your newer Volvo?  I would go with the factory maintenance recommendation, which is not to touch it. Why are you nervous about it?
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Aug 25, 2016 19:45
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Stupid newbie who knows jack poo poo about cars question: My car died, it needs a new head gasket, and the repair is gonna cost almost as much as I paid for the drat thing. It's a 2001 Monte Carlo LS, it's pretty beat up (1 medium dent, scuffs on the bumper, cracks in the head/tail-lights, fuel gauge doesn't work, etc.) How do I make the most off my junkheap to put it towards a new car? Scrap yard offered me $110 for it, and 2001 Monte LSes in much better condition than mine go for around $7-800 on eBay, so I doubt I'd get more than $4-500 out of it. Donating to charity would probably get me a tax break for $500 if I read the laws right. Any options I'm missing? I've heard it's a good body because it'll hold a bunch of different GM engines, but I'm not sure if that's true, or if it even matters.
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Aug 25, 2016 23:04
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drunk asian neighbor posted:How do I make the most off my junkheap to put it towards a new car? The high-effort answer is that you can remove every part individually and sell it on eBay. I imagine you'd easily clear $500 that way. Alternatively, assuming your head isn't warped, you could throw on a new headgasket yourself and sell the running car. Sans headgasket, your car is practically worthless.
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Aug 25, 2016 23:25
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Christobevii3 posted:Buy midgrade locally over $6 difference. If they are wrong the shipping back will ruin it. Also, drums aren't that big of a deal. Usually just takes a flat head and needle-nose to do. Don't drums take longer to wear? I was just gonna put them off until the next time this car sees a garage. Nobody in this household has direct experience with them and my willingness to learn has been tempered by how often I've been told they're a bitch. Anyway, (at the risk of falling into a well here), I spotted compatible (cross-checked with rockauto and fordparts.com) monroe pads on amazon, prime shipping, for a comparable price. If they arrive and they're wrong I should still have time to suck it up and take a morning trip to autozone before we do this next week. Returns on first-party amazon items are usually pretty painless.
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Aug 26, 2016 03:47
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cephalopods posted:Don't drums take longer to wear? I was just gonna put them off until the next time this car sees a garage. Nobody in this household has direct experience with them and my willingness to learn has been tempered by how often I've been told they're a bitch. YMMV but I ripped the drums off my '02 Focus (which is functionally identical to your's minus the engine, front brakes and some cosmetic/sheetmetal changes) at 65,000 miles and replaced them with rear discs they had plenty of meat left on the shoes. Probably would have made it past 130,000 miles if I had to guess.
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Aug 26, 2016 03:57
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The only reason I replaced the rear shoes and drums on my focus was the rear wheel bearings died. The shoes never actually wore out. That was at 130k miles or so.
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Aug 26, 2016 16:19
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Our Ford E350's drum brakes became dangerous at 141k miles, ask SouthsideSaint. Nothing left on the shoes, drums were even 100% poo poo. They sounded like rock tumblers.
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Aug 26, 2016 16:21
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scuz posted:Our Ford E350's drum brakes became dangerous at 141k miles, ask SouthsideSaint. Nothing left on the shoes, drums were even 100% poo poo. They sounded like rock tumblers. It's true. Most times at work when a customer asks us to check the rear drums it's because they have been grinding or rock tumbling. The drum really helps trap and increase the sound with speed. Beware of your drums are rusty. When I was a young wrench I beat the life out of a set of drums that were rusty. They came off but they ripped the pins that hold the shoes on out of the backing plate. But this is a rustbelt problem.
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Aug 26, 2016 19:23
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I can already tell Christobevii3 does not live in the rustbelt. Drums can be a real loving party to repair up here, but it's not bad as long as you know you're in for hell and buy "one of everything" before starting. New hardware kit, adjuster kit, shoes, maybe ebrake cables, drum, you name it, shotgun it all and then just put it back together how it was in the first place, but with new parts and the adjuster adjusted properly. The only issue is when you don't realize that something or other (usually a small, inconsequential looking part that's not included in the hardware kit) is needed and you don't have it, then you tear the thing apart and the part is destroyed on your old brakes, not included in the new set, and you can't put it back together till you get it, and it's always the one part that's out of stock at every auto parts store within 10 miles. Not saying you shouldn't do your own drum brakes because of this, but it's something to look out for... I recommend looking at the factory service manual and/or pictures on the internet and/or forum threads that are model specific to figure out what it looked like before it sat on the bottom of the ocean for 20 years, then compare what's pictured to the hardware kit you buy and make sure anything that isn't included is bought separately.
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Aug 26, 2016 19:29
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I do not live in the rustbelt and buying a spring kit and shoes for the ranger was $50. Drums are always first side takes 45 minutes multiple hand cuts and second 15 minutes. Also, keep three cars since I can always say gently caress it and come back next weekend.
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Aug 26, 2016 20:40
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Yeah, I agree. Buying a hardware kit is the smart thing to do, I just learned the hard way a few months ago that a hardware kit for an 80s Comanche doesn't include the adjuster bits, which I assumed it would (since every previous drum hardware kit I've bought did) and thus my project got screwed over for another weekend while I waited for the adjuster kit to arrive. Once I had all the stuff I needed in hand, it took me a grand total of 15min a side since I'd already freed the drums when checking to see if the brakes needed work previously.
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Aug 26, 2016 22:00
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Michael Scott posted:I would go with the factory maintenance recommendation, which is not to touch it. Why are you nervous about it? Lifetime fluid = lifetime of the transmission, when it dies that means the fluid was done! I'd just do a change and be done with it.
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Aug 27, 2016 00:07
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IOwnCalculus posted:Lifetime fluid = lifetime of the transmission, when it dies that means the fluid was done! I'd just do a change and be done with it. Or, more likely, lifetime of the warranty. It's spec'd such that it minimizes their costs due to either in-warranty fluids changing, or in-warranty transmission replacements.
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Aug 27, 2016 04:04
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Enourmo posted:Twin I-beams are a little better, because instead of being mounted outboard of the diff, each arm is mounted on the opposing side of the frame. That means more length to take up the wheel travel, which reduces the angle that it rotates at full droop. Except in very specific circumstances... 
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Aug 27, 2016 09:19
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I've got a 2014 WRX, and it will soon need tires. This is my daily and it came with these "NEAT PERFORMANCE" tires that wear out super fast and don't have great traction. I live in DC so we get some weather sometimes like last years crazy snow. Anybody have like a favorite all-around good tire that would give me SOME traction in bad weather when it happens? Is this a pipe dream? Is it made of unobtanium and cost like 30000000 dollars a pop? Does it make red smoke when i do maaaaaaad skids? These are all important questions.
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Aug 27, 2016 14:45
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AcidRonin posted:I've got a 2014 WRX, and it will soon need tires. This is my daily and it came with these "NEAT PERFORMANCE" tires that wear out super fast and don't have great traction. I live in DC so we get some weather sometimes like last years crazy snow. Anybody have like a favorite all-around good tire that would give me SOME traction in bad weather when it happens? Is this a pipe dream? Is it made of unobtanium and cost like 30000000 dollars a pop? Does it make red smoke when i do maaaaaaad skids? These are all important questions. http://m.tirerack.com/tires/TireDetailsServlet?tireMake=Continental&tireModel=ExtremeContact+DWS+06
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Aug 27, 2016 16:19
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So how big of a deal is it if I use conventional vice synthetic in my 2015 Mazda 3?
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Aug 27, 2016 23:58
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vulturesrow posted:So how big of a deal is it if I use conventional vice synthetic in my 2015 Mazda 3? Does the owner's manual specify synthetic? If yes, your warranty is void once you put conventional in it (and you'll need proof of oil changes if you ever have a warranty claim on the engine internals). Also, a quick Google search says it needs 0w20, which is very difficult to find in anything but synthetic and synthetic blend.
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Aug 28, 2016 04:17
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