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His Divine Shadow posted:I threw away hundreds of screws I had just because they where philips head. Yeah, most of my screws are torx or square drive these days, but I don't exactly have much control over the screws that ship with a product. And these were #14 screws (about a 1/4" shaft), too, so not exactly something I had a comparable replacement for. Had to go to the hardware store, which only sells more Phillips-head screws, of course.
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Aug 25, 2016 16:12
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Frogmanv2 posted:Apparently its got a festool router in there. Or trimmer. The prototype was made with a Dewalt, the production version has a custom router. The video by Make has more information than everything else I've seen combined, which is still not very much information considering they are asking for $1500. GEMorris posted:There's so much "knowledge" in woodworking that is just New thread title! But young farts are now repeating what they heard from those old farts (e.g. reddit). Zhent posted:Does anyone have a handy explanation or quick 'hand planes for dummies' answer on what is a scrub plane, and how it fits in with the rest of the jackplane, jointer, then finish cycle? Scrubs are short, narrow, have a big mouth and an iron shaped like a scoop. They are meant for removing wood fast. Without looking I believe they are German in origin. The jack, jointer, smoother, are English. They are from different systems.
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Aug 25, 2016 18:01
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I thought if I went really fast and evenly I could sand the inside of this curve with a 1" belt sander, but of course I didn't and so now I've got these lines dug in it. So how do you sand the inside of a curve like this? I feel like you'd need a squishy drum sander attachment, but I haven't seen anything like that; they're all rigid, and so not good for what I'm trying to do.
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Aug 27, 2016 14:54
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jackpot posted:I thought if I went really fast and evenly I could sand the inside of this curve with a 1" belt sander, but of course I didn't and so now I've got these lines dug in it. So how do you sand the inside of a curve like this? I feel like you'd need a squishy drum sander attachment, but I haven't seen anything like that; they're all rigid, and so not good for what I'm trying to do. Get a 1" dowel or slightly smaller and wrap sandpaper around it is how I go. Then just grind away by hand (but I'm an old school fart*). That looks cool, what is it? *I'm sure there's more efficient ways
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Aug 27, 2016 15:33
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You're trying to shape the wood it looks like, not just smooth it. Shaping can be done with sandpaper for sure, but it's messy and kind of like driving nails with a wrench. What works great for situations like that is a fine rasp. The resulting surface will only need a few passes with some sandpaper for final smoothing, at most. Ariou and gramercy rasps are fantastic, but a bit pricey. Still wouldn't be without mine.
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Aug 27, 2016 15:56
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^^ Didn't see this before I posted. I'll look for a rasp too, thanks.Mr. Mambold posted:Get a 1" dowel or slightly smaller and wrap sandpaper around it is how I go. Then just grind away by hand (but I'm an old school fart*). That looks cool, what is it? It's a key! My toddler son loves keys, and so I'm using that as an excuse to practice with my scroll saw. The wood is some Brazilian rosewood that I found in the scrap bin at Woodcraft, and it's freakin' gorgeous. 
jackpot fucked around with this message at 16:30 on Aug 27, 2016 |
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Aug 27, 2016 16:19
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jackpot posted:I thought if I went really fast and evenly I could sand the inside of this curve with a 1" belt sander, but of course I didn't and so now I've got these lines dug in it. So how do you sand the inside of a curve like this? I feel like you'd need a squishy drum sander attachment, but I haven't seen anything like that; they're all rigid, and so not good for what I'm trying to do. A wrapped dowel is also a good method and you can use one that matches the radius of the curve since those things are cheap. Other round objects work too, I've used poo poo like mini-maglites to keep from having to go to the store.
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Aug 27, 2016 17:00
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Woodcraft is having a sale for Labor Day weekend on vises, benches, and clamps - I'm not sure if that applies only to the website or extends to the stores, but I know at least the pipe clamps on their website are cheaper than Amazon. I may use this opportunity to get a few more camps of various sizes, since it seems almost impossible to have too many clamps available.
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Aug 28, 2016 03:27
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WAIT WHAT RANDOM WOODCRAFT IS SELLING BRAZILIAN ROSEWOOD???
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Aug 28, 2016 05:52
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I finally replaced the Bosch blade on my BS with a Vermont American, night and day difference. That Bosch blade was a turd from the start, dull and burned wood. The VA blade cuts through hardwoods without burning and minimal effort pushing. I might try sharpening the Bosch and see if I can improve it. Also, been hearing a ticking sound on my BS and finally figured out the upper tire is not glued on and as it spins the centrifugal force throws it away from the wheel then when it meets the blade again it slaps against the wheel. The previous caretaker must have replaced the tire and not known to glue it down. A relief to figure out the problem as I had been thinking it was the bearings.
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Aug 28, 2016 06:21
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jackpot posted:^^ Didn't see this before I posted. I'll look for a rasp too, thanks. Maybe a dremel?
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Aug 28, 2016 14:13
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I can't get my dull jointer knives out. I tried prying it every which way, smashing it with a mallet and block of wood, penetrating lubricant, and an acetylene torch. loving now what? New jointer?
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Aug 28, 2016 17:52
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Had a bit of an adventure at the lumberyard. Went in, asked where the surfaced wood was, guy was very mumbly but pointed to the back and said they had more utility grade out back. I get a couple boards but still need a shitton of 2x3 or 2x4 so my stepdad and I take the cart and wander out back. Dude there gives us a weird look but helpfully points us to some douglas fir that was only slightly more expensive but better condition. Well, it turns out long story short, they haven't let people pick their own wood in years at that place and I had basically just gone all fuckin rogue. The poor woman at the front desk looked like I was crazy, but we managed to get it all priced out and now I've got lumber at my house. The bad news is instead of paying extra for s4s, which they simply didn't have there in any quantity, I ended up paying less for just roughly surfaced. On the plus side, this means that if I gently caress it up I'm out very little. On the down side, I just committed to hand planing something like 150 board feet of fairly low quality fir.  So next time I guess I'll try other places and be more clear with them on what I'm looking for, calling ahead.
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Aug 28, 2016 18:46
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jackpot posted:^^ Didn't see this before I posted. I'll look for a rasp too, thanks. That is really cool. Also a spindle sander and a light touch could sand that curve pretty easily.
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Aug 28, 2016 18:59
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I've been having a hell of a time tracking down the metric equivalent of a pine 2 x 12. Apparently this is not a thing in Finland. The trees might be too small? I'm meeting a guy next week who says he has something fairly close, so we'll see. I should have probably been less picky, but I'm terrified of somehow messing up the instructions I'm following. Also, I have a belt sander with what is apparently a bizarre size requiring belts ordered from Germany, is gluing up your own belts feasible? Will I abrade my beautiful face?
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Aug 28, 2016 20:05
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Free Market Mambo posted:I've been having a hell of a time tracking down the metric equivalent of a pine 2 x 12. Apparently this is not a thing in Finland. The trees might be too small? I'm meeting a guy next week who says he has something fairly close, so we'll see. I should have probably been less picky, but I'm terrified of somehow messing up the instructions I'm following. You don't have it in laminated dimension lumber either? What are you building that requires it?
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Aug 28, 2016 20:11
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Mr. Mambold posted:You don't have it in laminated dimension lumber either? What are you building that requires it? I'm building the springpole lathe from August's Popular Woodworking. I hadn't even considered looking at the laminated lumber, how does it work with hand tools?
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Aug 28, 2016 20:14
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Free Market Mambo posted:I'm building the springpole lathe from August's Popular Woodworking. I hadn't even considered looking at the laminated lumber, how does it work with hand tools? Idk, I only ever cut it to length with a skilsaw.
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Aug 28, 2016 20:19
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RadioPassive posted:I can't get my dull jointer knives out. I tried prying it every which way, smashing it with a mallet and block of wood, penetrating lubricant, and an acetylene torch. You've managed to get the gib out and the knife is stuck to the cutterhead? Upgrading to an after market spiral cutterhead would probably be cheaper than getting a new jointer.
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Aug 28, 2016 20:20
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Mr. Mambold posted:Idk, I only ever cut it to length with a skilsaw. I'll probably have to stick with standard lumber, given that I need to be doing M&T joinery with it. But thanks for the suggestion.
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Aug 28, 2016 20:24
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I need a thing to cut wood. Was debating getting a ripping hand saw and a crosscut, but maybe I should get a circular saw? I want to do basic woodworking, such as making boxes and practicing joints. I've already got chisels, mallet, and Jack plane. Tell me what kind of saw I need.
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Aug 28, 2016 23:44
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Zosologist posted:I need a thing to cut wood. Was debating getting a ripping hand saw and a crosscut, but maybe I should get a circular saw? How much ripping do you plan on doing? How much space do you have?
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Aug 29, 2016 00:20
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Phone posted:How much ripping do you plan on doing? How much space do you have? I will be doing some ripping but not much until I get the table saw.
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Aug 29, 2016 00:27
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Cobalt60 posted:WAIT WHAT RANDOM WOODCRAFT IS SELLING BRAZILIAN ROSEWOOD??? Made a knife handle from it a while back: 
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Aug 29, 2016 01:38
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Get a circular saw, IMO. They don't really completely obsolete even if you have a full set of other saws, thanks to their portability; they're also better for crosscutting large boards than table saws are, since you can move the saw through the piece instead of vice versa. And they're pretty cheap as far as power tools go. And you don't want to do any ripping with hand tools if you can help it, unless you're a hand tools purist.
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Aug 29, 2016 01:44
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Meow Meow Meow posted:You've managed to get the gib out and the knife is stuck to the cutterhead? Upgrading to an after market spiral cutterhead would probably be cheaper than getting a new jointer. It's just a plain Craftsman jointer that I got used for $150, and I can't even get the wedges out. The screws came out fine, but nothing else budges.
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Aug 29, 2016 02:21
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RadioPassive posted:It's just a plain Craftsman jointer that I got used for $150, and I can't even get the wedges out. The screws came out fine, but nothing else budges. Pics?
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Aug 29, 2016 03:04
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Not my pics but it's exactly like this:   And I actually found those pics from an offsite forum post asking exactly the same question. Their suggestions and solution didn't work for me.
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Aug 29, 2016 03:30
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I used a rare earth magnet to pull the blades out of my thickness planer. Maybe that could work for you?
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Aug 29, 2016 03:51
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Zosologist posted:I want to do basic woodworking, such as making boxes and practicing joints. I've already got chisels, mallet, and Jack plane. For small projects I would buy good quality handsaws and learn how to sharpen them. At some point you will want them anyway and imo you'll have more control for small pieces than with a circ saw. RadioPassive posted:I can't get my dull jointer knives out. Have you done all the obvious things like read the manual and checked youtube for a video? I'm not implying you haven't, just asking for clarity. If you've done the right things and they are just stuck, I would take a sturdy punch, cold chisel, or long bolt + hammer and give them a good whack. I know you are not supposed to loosen them that way but sometimes you gotta do what you gotta do. I assume it's the wedge that stuck and not the blades themselves? First hose it down with wd40 or equivalent and let it set for a few hours or over night.
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Aug 29, 2016 06:15
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:
I really enjoy resawing and ripping with my 26" rip saw, it's meditative. I will never ask the same of anyone else though.
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Aug 29, 2016 11:07
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RadioPassive posted:Not my pics but it's exactly like this: This might be a stupid question, but you're not prying up like that person, are you? Those gibs are tightened by being pushed upwards by the screws. Usually a sharp whack towards the head with a mallet and a short piece of wood is enough to break them loose. wormil posted:First hose it down with wd40 or equivalent and let it set for a few hours or over night. Turpentine or something similar might work a little better in the short term in this case, but yeah, wd40 might be better overnight. One Legged Ninja fucked around with this message at 12:12 on Aug 29, 2016 |
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Aug 29, 2016 12:08
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One Legged Ninja posted:Those gibs are tightened by being pushed upwards by the screws. No they're not. They're wedges held down by screws, per the original manufacturer's operation manual that I have which instructs to "gently pry them loose with a small screwdriver."
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Aug 29, 2016 12:11
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Oh, ok. Sorry, they look exactly like my planer gibs, so I assumed. E: Could you turn the leveling screws backwards and force the knife out? Last resort is take the head out, and drive a wedge in. One Legged Ninja fucked around with this message at 12:16 on Aug 29, 2016 |
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Aug 29, 2016 12:13
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One Legged Ninja posted:E: Could you turn the leveling screws backwards and force the knife out? Tried that. Started to round off two of them but not badly enough that I couldn't back them off again. One Legged Ninja posted:Last resort is take the head out, and drive a wedge in. That's the plan next time. My job is being poo poo and keeping me long hours lately. I'm gonna heat it with my acetylene torch, bathe it in PB Blaster for a few days while I wait for time enough to do real work on it, then try to remove the head once I'm free.
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Aug 29, 2016 12:54
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RadioPassive posted:Not my pics but it's exactly like this: Is there no movement at all? That looks like the same design as my Grizzly (it's a safety feature, hah!), and I think the knives slide horizontally once you've loosened it up. Yours could have resin and debris in there somehow?
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Aug 29, 2016 15:05
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One Legged Ninja posted:Turpentine or something similar might work a little better in the short term ... Might, but I believe turpentine is too weak a solvent to do much good, maybe I'm wrong. I keep a bottle of 10w-30 mixed with kerosene as a general purpose light machine oil/penetrating fluid. They say an acetone/oil mix is the best but I've never tried it. I don't work with rusty things often and if PB Blaster or my oil/kerosene mix don't do the job then a hydraulic press or 2' cheater bar will. Heat is fine for nuts and bolts but I hesitate to use it on anything that is tempered or where there is a level of precision.
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Aug 29, 2016 17:54
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I have been getting into this satisfying hobby for a few years, slowly acquiring power tools as needed (circular saw, contractor table saw, drill press) and now am looking to get some more hand tools as I don't see myself getting a power jointer/planer in the near future. I have no hand planes, but this one showed up locally for $50 CAD: http://imgur.com/a/YcaDH I'm not too familiar with Stanley hand planes, but does this look reasonable? There is no info given other than "Stanley no. 5 smooth bottom 14 in jack plane - excellent condition"...but no pic of the bottom to indicate what shape it's in. I want to get into small box-making and thought hand planes would be a good option, and a jack plane is likely going to be pretty useful for dimensioning/truing small boards. I could get a fancy new Veritas jack plane but that is around $300 CAD. Any advice is much appreciated!
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Aug 29, 2016 20:01
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Monoclinic posted:I have been getting into this satisfying hobby for a few years, slowly acquiring power tools as needed (circular saw, contractor table saw, drill press) and now am looking to get some more hand tools as I don't see myself getting a power jointer/planer in the near future. I have no hand planes, but this one showed up locally for $50 CAD: http://imgur.com/a/YcaDH I'm not too familiar with Stanley hand planes, but does this look reasonable? There is no info given other than "Stanley no. 5 smooth bottom 14 in jack plane - excellent condition"...but no pic of the bottom to indicate what shape it's in. That is a Stanley Two-Tone. The low end of the Stanley planes. The first plane I ever bought was a Two-tone smoother and I use it all the time. $50 seems steep to me, but it looks like it is in great shape.
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Aug 29, 2016 20:13
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Finished my workbench! It's amazing how useful the thing was, even as I was building it, as a surface of the right height to work on the various piece that would eventually be incorporated into its structure. Basically as soon as I had the bare frame glued together, it was getting used as a work surface. Top and bottom stretchers are mortise-and-tenon joints into the 4x4 legs; the middle stretchers (which are really only there as supports for the drawers) are rabbeted into the legs instead. I got given that vise years ago, but never before had a bench I could attach it to.  Drawers are just open-faced boxes that rest on the plywood that rests on the middle stretchers. More plywood serves as dividers. All of the plywood used was 3/4" CDX, leftover from building the workshop. So it's ugly but serviceable, which IMO is what a workbench should be.  Once I get the workshop electrified, there'll be outlets in-between the windows just a bit above the workbench surface.  I sized the height of the underneath storage so that I could fit my thickness planer in there, so it finally has a proper home. Plus it weighs a good 40+ pounds, and I figure a workbench can never really be too heavy. This is the first piece of furniture I've ever made, and as I didn't have proper plans going in, there are a few bits that don't quite match up properly. Fortunately that doesn't really matter that much; the errors are all cosmetic, not structural, and it doesn't need to be pretty. Still, my next furniture project (a bookshelf) will need to be pretty, so I'd better be a lot more careful with that one...
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Aug 29, 2016 20:49
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