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I had to look that up, looks pretty crazy. Also here's what the machines look like. No idea which one I'll get, told them to pick out a good one. 
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Aug 18, 2016 17:06
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Can anyone talk about files, in detail? I'm talking about bastard files, mill files, hand files, etc. I know the basics of how they work, but where do I find good ones? How do I maintain them, aside from "don't drop them"? I've had a few people who do machining for a living come through our blacksmith classes with files they brought from work, and they're a much higher quality than anything I can buy at Home Depot. Since I'd like to do more work by hand, it'd be nice to have some high quality tools.
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Aug 19, 2016 18:29
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There's an OLD book out there by the Nicholson company called "File Filosophy". There's several different versions in PDF out there, here's one of them. http://www.wewilliams.net/docs/1920%20-%20File%20Filosophy%20by%20Nicholson%20File%20Co.-%2011th%20Ed.pdf Not much about files has changed in 100 years. Can't help you with recommendations of modern brands that are quality, I'd be interested in that info myself.
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Aug 19, 2016 18:35
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Pagan posted:Can anyone talk about files, in detail? I'm talking about bastard files, mill files, hand files, etc. I know the basics of how they work, but where do I find good ones? How do I maintain them, aside from "don't drop them"? I purchase exclusively Nicholson files, usually in a 10 inch bastard mill. MSC carries them for like $13. Be sure to order a handle, they normally don't come with one. Don't be that guy with a wicked scar in the center of his palm that starts the story with, "So I was deburring a nasty casting on the lathe..." I have a pretty massive selection of files and rarely use any but the bastard. The precision swiss are neat, but if I need something that nice we just stick it on a surface grinder. It's too hard to remain parallel and flat with a file to any precision. Nicholson has a guide as well with a ton of info - http://www.nicholsontool.com/MagentoShare/media/documents/nicholson-guide-to-filing-2014.pdf
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Aug 19, 2016 18:48
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Pagan posted:Can anyone talk about files, in detail? I'm talking about bastard files, mill files, hand files, etc. I know the basics of how they work, but where do I find good ones? How do I maintain them, aside from "don't drop them"? This probably covered by File Filosophy, but: don't drop them don't drag them back, lift and pull back then do another stroke and you can use a tool known as a "file card" to clear the teeth if you've gummed one up with soft materials such as plastic, aluminum, copper, brass, etc.
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Aug 19, 2016 18:55
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I haven't been able to get a Nicholson that was actually straight in years, Pferd supremacy for life. One seriously counterintuitive thing about files, oil and grease make them cut like poo poo. Even touching them with your fingers leaves enough oil that you'll feel it slipping the next few strokes. Rubbing some sidewalk chalk over the teeth is the greatest, esp working on brass and aluminum. As far as the geometry goes, it's just a question of what's maneuverable enough to get to where you're working. IMO the most useful are *6-12" mill files, finer teeth in the smaller sizes and more aggressive in the larger sizes *10" bastard half-round *8" tapered triangle That'll cover ~80% of anything you run into. shame on an IGA fucked around with this message at 20:02 on Aug 19, 2016 |
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Aug 19, 2016 19:42
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Yeah I'm partial to Nicholson's too. They're the least worst of the ones available to normal Joes like us. If you can afford it, there's always the specialist tool places that cater to machine shops and industrial customers (probably McMaster Carr? Dunno, those fucks don't sell to Canadians). I'm not sure what brands they carry but it'll be better than the consumer trash we find at walmarts.
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Aug 19, 2016 19:51
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Amazon is seriously amazing for quality hand tools, search often and you'll find them marking stuff like pferd files and wiha flag drivers 80%off because they need to empty the box before they restock. E: for example, here's an 8" fine single cut with gel handle for $4.21, Prime shipping. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000VD6QGS/ref=biss_dp_t_asn shame on an IGA fucked around with this message at 20:17 on Aug 19, 2016 |
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Aug 19, 2016 20:07
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Paul Sellers has written a lot on files and rasps for woodworking and he doesn't have high opinions (anymore) on Nicholson files. Seems to like bahco: https://paulsellers.com/2015/03/bahco-oberg-files-cut-steel-fast/ He also recommended these portugal made rasps and files: http://www.tomefeteira.com/produtos.html
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Aug 19, 2016 20:44
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AbsentMindedWelder posted:There's an OLD book out there by the Nicholson company called "File Filosophy". There's several different versions in PDF out there, here's one of them. I've been in the Nicholson File building; it's right next to the Steel Yard. Thanks for the link, and what a small world.
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Aug 19, 2016 21:34
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AbsentMindedWelder posted:There's an OLD book out there by the Nicholson company called "File Filosophy". There's several different versions in PDF out there, here's one of them. https://books.google.com/books?id=DlZAAAAAIAAJ&pg=PA1#v=onepage&q&f=false Check out the Assyrian examples on pages 11 & 12, not much about files has changed for 2,700 years.
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Aug 19, 2016 21:58
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Blacksmithing / Metalwork: Not much has changed for 2,700 years
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Aug 20, 2016 08:21
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Reading the manual for this welding machine and it has some strange functions, also what I thought was scratch-start was lift-arc start, so this unit has HF and lift-arc. Also a spot weld function, wonder how that works. I wonder also if it's more of a tack-function rather than a spot weld. The weirdest function must be this thing called the minilog system, if I understand it correctly, it means you can set two currents, and you can flick back and forth between them by pressing the torch switch. Holding the switch longer than .7sec in that mode turns on or off the torch and initiates up- and downslope functions if set. EDIT: Also a tack weld function, that actually seems very useful. His Divine Shadow fucked around with this message at 07:29 on Aug 23, 2016 |
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Aug 20, 2016 21:54
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I'm flipping out a bit about gas saving because I read TIG uses lots of argon and an 11 liter bottle costs 350 euros to buy and 80 euros to refill. I dunno if that means much to you guys, 11 liters is the physical inside volume of the bottle, the compressed gas inside it is of course a lot more than 11 liters when at atmospheric pressure. There are gas savers to connect to the regulators that supposedly save 50% of the gas every time you weld by reducing the intial "puff" of gas, and then there are gas savers for the torches too, basically mesh screens that direct the flow of gas better, meaning you need less of it.
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Aug 23, 2016 07:33
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Those might be worthwhile if you're welding all day, but if you're making a quick bead, then going off to hammer something into shape and coming back twenty minutes later, those little puffs ought to purge the hose of any normal atmosphere.
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Aug 23, 2016 14:48
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11 litres seems awfully small. Even if that's the physical volume of the cylinder, that comes to just under .4 cubic feet which is TINY. I called my LWS today (east coast, mid-Atlantic region)... they would charge me $50 USD to swap out my 141 cubic foot cylinder. (that refers to the volume of the gas @ atmospheric pressure)
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Aug 23, 2016 17:21
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11 liters is about as big as they sell to private consumers, bigger than that and you're into rental schemes which usually isn't worth it unless you're a company. Based on what I can find, a 10-11 liter bottle can contain around 2.36 cubic meters of gas, which is around 81 cubic feet. So a little more than half the size you get and nearly twice the price to refil. Though I am sure companies who rent get to refill much more cheaply. The gas market is pretty monopolistic here though. Also dragged home some junk, an old compressor that the seller said didn't work. The motor works however and it's a 2.2kw 920RPM motor. I figured for that alone it was worth 30 euros he wanted. 
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Aug 23, 2016 18:42
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Speaking of gasses, I came across this on reddit and now I'm worried: https://imgur.com/a/arf7w Guy got himself some mig gas and maybe thought he was going to put it in his car or something. I don't know what he was thinking but it's got me wondering. You know how propane is reverse thread? Are there similar physical safety measures preventing someone from connecting an acetylene tank to their mig for example?
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Aug 24, 2016 01:19
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Almost positive that all gas fuels are reversed threads and the inerts are normal.
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Aug 24, 2016 01:53
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That inspires confidence. TSC sells 55 cu. ft. cylinders for $280 and gas for $70. You can also get 80 cu. ft. for $85, but I can't figure out from their website if they also sell cylinders that size. Compared to prices already posted, TSC seems expensive. I mean, their prices for a flowmeter sucks compared to e-bay. It seems like it's really easy to spend a lot of money on gasses . Is it just a case of "certain regions are irrevocably boned on prices", or are there suppliers with good deals to watch out for?
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Aug 24, 2016 03:39
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DreadLlama posted:That inspires confidence. TSC is always overpriced. Support your LWS, they should have the best pricing. If you're lucky and have several from competing companies, call them all and get pricing. My local Airgas wanted 2x the cost to fill a big 120CF C25 tank for me when compared to the indy LWS.
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Aug 24, 2016 03:53
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In that case I will check out the locals. Thank you. Perhaps I will be lucky and they will have cheap refractory as well. Can anyone find a fire brick for less than $4?
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Aug 24, 2016 05:42
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If you need refractory, see if there is a Harbison Walker distributor near you: http://thinkhwi.com/
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Aug 24, 2016 13:12
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Arrived today, but I had it shipped to my parents place, sadly too big to get in my little Yaris so I'll have to go back with the trailer tomorrow. Torch looks new, flexible head, Kemppi TTC 130, so a 130A torch, smallest model they have. Kinda feels clumsy but I didn't try it very much, 
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Aug 25, 2016 16:41
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I disassembled my metal spinning lathe yesterday. The headstock comes totally off, so I think I am going to mount it separately and make the lathe a gap bed so I can spin larger diameters. The tailstock quill is very chewed up. Not sure how I will find a replacement. Hopefully I can machine down a larger sized one. It is 1.25" Dia. With a 1/2"-10 acme left hand thread in the back, and what looks to be a 3MT arbour hole in the front.
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Aug 26, 2016 23:45
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Question on how to fix something. The item in the picture is an alignment pin, about 4 inches long, 1/2 inch wide narrowing to about 1/4 inch at the threads. The pin goes into my jointer and holds the safety guard on the top. Unfortunately while moving it the top heavy thing tipped over and the guard jammed up on a work bench. As you can see the threaded piece right at the joint is slightly bent. The main sold piece is still completely straight. I didn't want to just chuck it into a vise and try bending it before I checked with people more knowledgeable about metal than I. 
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Aug 27, 2016 02:50
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I would screw it in to a nut and hold the nut in the vise, and then give it some taps with a rawhide hammer until it is straight.
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Aug 27, 2016 13:27
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I've got a bimetal holesaw I wanna sharpen but my mandrel for those tiny lil 1" Dremel grinding wheels is broken- any thoughts on other sharpening methods?
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Aug 27, 2016 17:15
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Ambrose Burnside posted:I've got a bimetal holesaw I wanna sharpen but my mandrel for those tiny lil 1" Dremel grinding wheels is broken- any thoughts on other sharpening methods? vise & needle files
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Aug 27, 2016 17:56
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Already tried that, teeth are too hard. I could do it with diamond files but I don't have any and aren't gonna go get a set for this.
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Aug 27, 2016 18:23
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emery cloth glued to a stick?
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Aug 27, 2016 18:32
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Buy a new hole saw, it's usually cheaper all told after you account for work time lost sharpening. The only thing I bother sharpening are drills and 2 flute endmills. Even then the endmill is useless for heavy operation afterwards because I do it by hand with a pedestal grinder.
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Aug 27, 2016 19:59
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Brekelefuw posted:I would screw it in to a nut and hold the nut in the vise, and then give it some taps with a rawhide hammer until it is straight. Similar, but I'm not sure a nut will have enough staying power. I'd: - buy a long nut / tube nut / coupler nut off mcmaster or at the hardware store and do what Brekelefuw said - drill a hole into a piece of steel plate stock out of the scrap bin, tap it to the right thread spec, and do the same thing - or if I was angry and short on time, probably just put it back in the hole it was in when it got bent and do the same thing. It clearly can handle the force or it would have broken the part it was screwed into or stripped the hole when it got bent in the first place, right? 
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Aug 29, 2016 22:23
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Finally this hell week is coming to an end. Everyone's been laid out with this bad cold so I hadn't had time to look at my new welder or really do anything, but last night I got to it. Turns out it makes a constant annoying sound in stick mode. I thought there was something broken but consulting the manual it was the idling sound it makes in stick mode. Perhaps it's some kind of safety feature. I knew of one person who used to have the same machine and he said yes it does that, and there's a kinda whining sound when it welds too, so you can tell by ear if someone's having too long an arc. Tried it for myself and it definitely makes a different noise depending on the arc length. Way way way easier to weld with, I didn't know welding could be this easy.
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Sep 2, 2016 04:19
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kastein posted:Similar, but I'm not sure a nut will have enough staying power. I'd: I think I will combine Brekelefuw's and kastein's suggestions. I can run by a real hardware store this Saturday as I like the idea of using a longer nut/coupler and if I can't find one then option 3 and just bend the dang thing back using the original parts. Thanks for the ideas.
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Sep 2, 2016 06:27
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His Divine Shadow posted:Finally this hell week is coming to an end. Everyone's been laid out with this bad cold so I hadn't had time to look at my new welder or really do anything, but last night I got to it. Turns out it makes a constant annoying sound in stick mode. I thought there was something broken but consulting the manual it was the idling sound it makes in stick mode. Perhaps it's some kind of safety feature. I knew of one person who used to have the same machine and he said yes it does that, and there's a kinda whining sound when it welds too, so you can tell by ear if someone's having too long an arc. Tried it for myself and it definitely makes a different noise depending on the arc length. Way way way easier to weld with, I didn't know welding could be this easy. That's the danger of MIG. It's not too difficult to make a weld that _looks_ fine but is as effective as a bead of silicone. Weld two things together then cut through the cross section, if it doesn't look like one continuous material, it isn't really welded. Your local tec might have evening classes in welding or fabrication that would be worth a look.
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Sep 2, 2016 07:54
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I'm not using MIG? I'm stick welding, and soon TIG welding.
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Sep 2, 2016 08:07
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I'm wondering if I should build my welder into my welding table, to make it a combined welding cart / table. The cart is pretty big and bulky and made for a much larger bottle than I got access to so it's a space hog in my tiny shop. OTOH I dunno how good it is to have the welder in the same structure that is getting welded on, the table itself would most likely be made to act as a ground so I don't have to clamp everything I want to weld. Perhaps if you insulated it from the table itself. Put it on a piece of plywood so it doesn't make physical contact with the frame. And since the table will be kept in a woodworking shop I probably want to enclose it good to prevent dust from getting in. The table wold be on castors and be rolled outside for any welding work.
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Sep 2, 2016 09:53
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Yeah I don't know how I read that from your post. Huh, that's what I get for posting before I've had coffee.
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Sep 2, 2016 11:25
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I did mig weld some hardox plate as the 1st thing I ever did weld using my dads welder, those welds broke off fast.
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Sep 2, 2016 11:32
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