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PerrineClostermann posted:So I have a friend in Canada who's building a PC to replace an old, old piece of junk. He's picking up a monitor and keyboard as well. I helped him make some selections, but there's a slight complication. To help save some time and money, he's sourcing some parts from a local retailer, not these online retailers. In particular, the PSU I had selected isn't available. looks perfect to me, though you can save a pretty penny on windows 10 by purchasing from r/microsoftsoftwareswap. It's like $30 USD. I'd say put the money towards a 1070, but yeesh prices are bad. The absolute cheapest was $539 CAD (~$419 USD). Maybe put it into a nicer monitor? I can't really comment on that regard.
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Sep 7, 2016 08:14
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Cat Army 
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Well, again, we have to swap out the psu. That recommendation for Windows helps though, I'll forward that info. What PSU brands are good?
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Sep 7, 2016 08:26
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PerrineClostermann posted:Well, again, we have to swap out the psu. That recommendation for Windows helps though, I'll forward that info. whoops, missed the PSU. Anyways, EVGA and Seasonic tend to be good. look in the OP but honestly that EVGA bronze unit isn't terrible, though if it's old chuck it for sure. Though it's not mentioned in the OP, the EVGA GS series is quite good as well. I only really know EVGA sorry 
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Sep 7, 2016 08:32
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im doing a build for a friend http://pcpartpicker.com/list/Cdvwcc about $60 budgeted for the case. He already has a 1080p monitor and I have a win10 key for him The idea is to have a high value system that will play games on medium settings for the next few years. He plays a lot of indy games but his primary objective is to play overwatch at a rock solid 60fps Is there any major value mismatch? Is there a component that costs much less than one i picked and only loses minor performance, or possibly the opposite where i can spend a little more and get a big boost? I am buying from california so i will probably shop online outside of the state so no newegg or amazon. Yes tiger direct, B & H and what else i can find
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Sep 7, 2016 09:18
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Fauxtool posted:im doing a build for a friend I would strongly recommend that you avoid tigerdirect if at all possible; they're shady as hell and have a reputation for ripping off or straight up stealing from their customers. Beyond that, the two things I would say are that you really ought to get a 400-450Watt PSU. A 360 watt PSU will probably be fine with a 1060, but I wouldn't recommend it. Don't buy crucial SSDs. Go for a Samsung 850 EVO, or an x400 Sandisk. I recommend the EVO. Strongly reconsider whether or not you really need a DVD drive. You can get a portable USB DVD player for around $20 these days, so the same price, and it's not like you need a DVD for windows anymore. other than that you have a really solid budget build.
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Sep 7, 2016 12:10
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PerrineClostermann posted:So I have a friend in Canada who's building a PC to replace an old, old piece of junk. He's picking up a monitor and keyboard as well. I helped him make some selections, but there's a slight complication. To help save some time and money, he's sourcing some parts from a local retailer, not these online retailers. In particular, the PSU I had selected isn't available. Be mindful that the 2tb drive is 5400 rpm
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Sep 7, 2016 13:02
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PerrineClostermann posted:So I have a friend in Canada who's building a PC to replace an old, old piece of junk. He's picking up a monitor and keyboard as well. I helped him make some selections, but there's a slight complication. To help save some time and money, he's sourcing some parts from a local retailer, not these online retailers. In particular, the PSU I had selected isn't available. If you're going for faster RAM, might as well go for 3000-3200MHz, if you can find it for a similar price at least. With the PSU, I can't really think of manufacturers to avoid in particular. Seasonic and EVGA have good reputations, so my advice is to get a gold-rated one from either of those in the 500-650W range. Most models have reviews, so if you're not sure just google and see what comes up.
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Sep 7, 2016 14:42
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jauk3n posted:What country are you in? USA USA!!! - You probably don't need an i7 processor. If you're really just gaming, an i5-6600K is a better value. It can be (when lightly overclocked) just as fast as the i7-6700K at what you're gonna be doing, and frees up ~$100 to spend on other things, like a better video card or beer. - The motherboard you picked already has two on-board NICs (LAN ports). Do you really need a wired network adapter? - You probably don't need a sound card. On-board audio has gotten a lot better recently, especially on gaming-focused higher-end motherboards, one of which you have selected. - My personal rule in my house is "if it doesn't move around, wire it in", so I don't stick wireless cards in any PCs I build. It's worth considering whether or not you're really going to be using wireless, and save the money if you're not. - Look at a Samsung 850 Evo SSD instead of the Intel. It's a better value - it's a great SSD, and you can get 500GB for $8 more, or stay at 240GB and save about $60. - We've now saved you enough money to get a GTX 1080 instead of a 980. Wahoo! Or, more beer.
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Sep 7, 2016 14:54
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jauk3n posted:What country are you in? USA USA!!! Ok here goes. I changed a bunch of stuff. PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant CPU: Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($227.99 @ SuperBiiz) CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($24.88 @ OutletPC) Motherboard: Asus Z170-A ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($149.39 @ Amazon) Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3200 Memory ($76.99 @ Newegg) Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($157.79 @ OutletPC) Video Card: Gigabyte GeForce GTX 1070 8GB Mini ITX OC Video Card ($384.99 @ SuperBiiz) Case: be quiet! Silent Base 800 (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA NEX 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($78.49 @ SuperBiiz) Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit ($88.88 @ OutletPC) Wireless Network Adapter: Intel 7260HMWDTX1 PCI-Express x1 802.11a/b/g/n/ac Wi-Fi Adapter ($44.99 @ Newegg) Keyboard: Logitech Y-UY95 Wired Gaming Keyboard ($63.01 @ Amazon) Total: $1297.40 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-09-07 10:12 EDT-0400 If you're gaming the i7 won't do anything for you so I switched it out for the i5 6600k. I also switched the cooler and the ram because you picked ones that were a bit expensive. I picked a motherboard with on board ethernet and good sound output options so you don't need the sound wired network cards. I picked an SSD that is well regarded and twice as big as what you picked, and I picked a current generation video card rather than last generation. The 1070 is cheaper and better than the 980. Finally I picked a power supply with a better warranty and reliability. It ends up being a lot better and cheaper.
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Sep 7, 2016 15:18
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becoming posted:- You probably don't need an i7 processor. If you're really just gaming, an i5-6600K is a better value. It can be (when lightly overclocked) just as fast as the i7-6700K at what you're gonna be doing, and frees up ~$100 to spend on other things, like a better video card or beer. Like I said, next to nothing. I appreciate the feed back.
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Sep 7, 2016 15:33
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GutBomb posted:Ok here goes. *saved*. This helped a lot. Thanks for doing the leg work. I fail horribly at this.
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Sep 7, 2016 15:39
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What do I need to do when getting a new monitor to make sure that it's working perfectly? I hear people talking about the "panel lottery" and I don't want to get burned
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Sep 7, 2016 17:11
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So I had a power supply up an die on me - just suddenly went, wasn't a cheapo one either, and was maybe a year and a half old. Thankfully i had an old power supply from a previous build kicking around and that got my machine running again. How concerned should I be about it's age? I've heard that PSUs are more likely to fault with age. I'm not entirely sure how old it is, it was in my old machine for at least 4, possibly more.
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Sep 7, 2016 17:15
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It'll probably work fine for the time being, but I'd seriously consider getting a new one. It's not generally recommended to keep the same PSU for more than 4-5 years.
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Sep 7, 2016 17:53
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Besides the advice to avoid cheapo PSUs, any recommended brands and brands to avoid with PSUs?
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Sep 7, 2016 18:07
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EVGA and Seasonic have good reputations, so it's hard to go wrong there. Go for a gold-rated one if possible.
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Sep 7, 2016 18:13
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Oxyclean posted:Besides the advice to avoid cheapo PSUs, any recommended brands and brands to avoid with PSUs? EVGA G2 and GS lines are highly recommend here. Stay away from Corsair CX and CSM lines.
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Sep 7, 2016 18:15
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Corsair RMx is another good choice, especially given they've had a 10 year warranty since early this year.
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Sep 7, 2016 18:27
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EVGA, Corsair, Seasonic, and FSP/Sparkle all tend to have solid models (and some have lovely cheap models, too) in my experience, but that's not to say that other brands are not worth considering - I've seen interesting things from Rosewill (Newegg's house brand) and Antec as well, to name a couple. The best approach for any model is to find a review from a website that uses a thorough process with a real power supply tester instead of PC components. JonnyGuru and HardOCP are pretty solid in my experience, and there are others. I don't have any direct experience with brands to avoid, but in this day and age I would say that anything without an efficiency rating or without active PFC (look to see if there's a 115/230V switch, if so then no active PFC) is not worth considering for any purpose. Even a bottom-end $25 430W EVGA has both of these. Inefficiency doesn't necessarily mean that the power supply is shoddy or fragile, but there's a strong correlation and the increased heat produced by an inefficient supply inherently contributes to wear and tear. Active PFC contributes to increased efficiency and reduces load on the AC source. Any manufacturer which is spending enough effort on a model to make it any good is not likely to neglect these. You also want to generally just consider if the wattage numbers are sane for the pricing of the supply. You are not likely to get a good 700W power supply for $30, so be suspicious if you see something like that. Eletriarnation fucked around with this message at 18:34 on Sep 7, 2016 |
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Sep 7, 2016 18:29
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I'm building a gaming PC for my wife - I'm decent enough at this (built my current gaming PC myself, with help from this thread a while ago) but I never can keep up with current hardware. It doesn't need to be a powerhouse - it should run, say, Fallout 4 competently, as a benchmark. I'm using this guide as a starting point: https://pcpartpicker.com/guide/CRRscf/modest-gaming-build Any thoughts? Any way I could chip some money off that list without sacrificing much - say, like, a comparable video card that has a great sale right now or a slightly downgraded processor? Anything on that list that's just a bad idea?
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Sep 7, 2016 18:57
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CharlieFoxtrot posted:What do I need to do when getting a new monitor to make sure that it's working perfectly? I hear people talking about the "panel lottery" and I don't want to get burned Generally speaking nothing. There are a lot of people who take a lot of pictures of their screen in a dark room and convince themselves its leaking a lot of light. Any ability to see this in use doesn't matter to them, and they will return 5 in a row to get one that doesn't. It's generally a super marginal thing and if you're happy with what you receive there's not a problem. Of course, a small percentage of any high-end products will have issues, but I refuse to believe people RMAing 3+ units are super unlucky and are actually super spergy instead.
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Sep 7, 2016 20:08
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Rotten Red Rod posted:I'm building a gaming PC for my wife - I'm decent enough at this (built my current gaming PC myself, with help from this thread a while ago) but I never can keep up with current hardware. It doesn't need to be a powerhouse - it should run, say, Fallout 4 competently, as a benchmark. - Grab a cheaper case. If you are willing to go with a small mITX case, look for an SG13 (usually about $40), or a Core V1 or Elite 130 (often ~$30 on sale/after rebate) and the ASRock H110 ITX/ac board recommended in the OP of the thread. - If you're near a Micro Center, you can do better on the processor/motherboard combo - the i5-6500 and H110 ITX/ac board I just mentioned combo for $220, saving you $40 (though you will pay tax obviously, which will eat into that savings a bit). - You can probably step down to the 4GB RX 480 instead of the 8GB and save another $40, if the $40 is worth it to you. All that having been said, and aside from buying at Micro Center (I am fortunate and have three within an hour of my house), the only thing I'd really change in the case. I think that's a nice enough case, but a bit spendy for what you get. Look for deals on NewEgg (and if you're local to Micro Center, there as well) to find well-reviewed cases that either go on sale or have big mail-in rebates. The Core V1 I mentioned earlier has an MSRP of $50 and is very easy to work in; my friend built in it recently and got it for $49.99 shipped from NewEgg, then a mail-in rebate took it down to $30. Tough to beat that. At Micro Center, I got a Cooler Master Silencio 352 for my niece, and after their close-out deal and a MIR, I paid $23. Deals are out there on cases if you're patient-ish and not married to any particular one. Also, in case it's not abundantly clear, the motherboard in the PCPP link will not fit in the ITX cases I mentioned (SG13, Core V1, Elite 130). If you put together your own build on PCPP, it'll stop you from making most mistakes, but to be safe, go ahead and paste your build list here when you're getting ready to buy and someone will review to make sure everything looks good. becoming fucked around with this message at 20:57 on Sep 7, 2016 |
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Sep 7, 2016 20:55
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Rotten Red Rod posted:I'm building a gaming PC for my wife - I'm decent enough at this (built my current gaming PC myself, with help from this thread a while ago) but I never can keep up with current hardware. It doesn't need to be a powerhouse - it should run, say, Fallout 4 competently, as a benchmark. I'd be surprised if you manage to find a 4 GB RX 480, let alone one $40 cheaper, but you could go down to a 4 GB RX 470 and probably not regret it.
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Sep 7, 2016 21:16
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I was gifted a GTX 780ti by a friend of mine and I'm fairly certain it is maxing out my old 550w PSU and regardless, it is way too close to bare minimum. Amazon's got the EVGA SuperNOVA 750 B2 for a decent discount on Prime (it's ~$75), any opinions? Is it a happy medium between not skimping but also not paying out the rear end? 750 watt PSU's get kinda pricey.
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Sep 7, 2016 21:17
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Thanks for the tips. I don't think I have a Micro Center near me (San Jose, CA) but I do have several similar stores. I'll see what they have. I've got a Samsung EVO SSD in my computer and I'm happy with it, I'll switch it to that.
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Sep 7, 2016 23:00
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Potential BFF posted:I was gifted a GTX 780ti by a friend of mine and I'm fairly certain it is maxing out my old 550w PSU and regardless, it is way too close to bare minimum. What issues are you experiencing that makes you think the PSU is not enough?
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Sep 8, 2016 13:37
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I said come in! posted:What issues are you experiencing that makes you think the PSU is not enough? I'm getting black screen resets when the card starts working hard (Black Ops 3, Battlefront). Temps on the card are staying under 80°C when it is under load which seems to be normal for the card, rest of the system is <50°C. Idling temps are under 40°C on all components. I haven't seen any of the screen tearing of artifacting that usually accompanies a heat issue. I checked a few calculators and a 550W PSU is cutting it really close for my system + the new card.
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Sep 8, 2016 14:50
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How does the Define Nano S soundproofing and dust filtering compare to the S/R5? I'm looking to downsize since I don't need a gigantor case. A small one would make my workspace a lot nicer. And I think it does but just to confirm, can the Nano fit 2 3.5 drives plus an SSD? Also, any recommendations on desk-mountable monitor arms? Dual would be a bonus but I've had bad experiences with those so two single monitor arms works for me.
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Sep 8, 2016 19:37
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Potential BFF posted:I'm getting black screen resets when the card starts working hard (Black Ops 3, Battlefront). Temps on the card are staying under 80°C when it is under load which seems to be normal for the card, rest of the system is <50°C. Idling temps are under 40°C on all components. I haven't seen any of the screen tearing of artifacting that usually accompanies a heat issue. I checked a few calculators and a 550W PSU is cutting it really close for my system + the new card. Are you overclocked at all on the GPU? I've seen this happen when I push too hard and the clock fails. It doesn't have to overheat.
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Sep 8, 2016 19:48
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VelociBacon posted:Are you overclocked at all on the GPU? I've seen this happen when I push too hard and the clock fails. It doesn't have to overheat. No overclocking, everything is running on standard settings. I was running an ATI card before but ran their clean install utility, I don't think it is a driver issue since I have yet to have a problem outside of circumstances where the card is pulling a bunch of power.
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Sep 8, 2016 20:09
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That's strange, I feel like 550W should be enough for a regular gaming computer. If you're going to replace the PSU, I still wouldn't go above 650W.
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Sep 8, 2016 21:49
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Do you know the PSU model? You're not running a "550W" Shaw or Diablotek, are you? And what was the previous AMD card?
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Sep 8, 2016 22:26
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My current PSU is a 550W Seasonic G Series,, the gfx card I replaced is an R9 270x. Both the GTX 780ti and the R9 are ASUS.
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Sep 8, 2016 22:35
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So every part of my build should be in by today, except my video card which should arrive Monday. I'm thinking it might be a good idea to build everything else now and get everything set up (and start installing games...) so that I could just plop in the video card when it arrives. PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant CPU: Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor (Purchased For $228.99) CPU Cooler: CRYORIG M9i 48.4 CFM CPU Cooler (Purchased For $21.79) Motherboard: ASRock Fatal1ty Z170 Gaming-ITX/ac Mini ITX LGA1151 Motherboard (Purchased For $138.04) Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws 4 Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory (Purchased For $80.93) Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive (Purchased For $96.19) Video Card: Asus GeForce GTX 1070 8GB Dual Series Video Card (Purchased For $394.99) Case: Thermaltake Core V1 Mini ITX Tower Case (Purchased For $57.80) Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA G2 550W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply (Purchased For $88.09) So the things I'm thinking about :
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Sep 8, 2016 23:57
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Potential BFF posted:My current PSU is a 550W Seasonic G Series,, the gfx card I replaced is an R9 270x. Both the GTX 780ti and the R9 are ASUS. How old is the PSU? Seasonic tends to be a uniformly high quality manufacturer and the 780 Ti spec says that it only uses 250W. It also says that it recommends at least a 600W power supply but that's being really generous. Unless you have a lot of hard drives or a crazy+overclocked CPU (what is your CPU?), it would be hard to pull over 250W with the rest of the system put together. CharlieFoxtrot posted:So the things I'm thinking about : At a glance the build looks good to me. Cryorig probably includes some paste with the HSF but if not I've had good results with Tuniq TX-2. I think someone else recommended some Gelid paste too recently but I can't recall the specific variety. For CPU overclocking all you have to do if you want to take it easy is bump up the CPU multiplier to whatever is still stable and set the memory to its advertised speed (don't forget latency too) since 2133 is the default (or use XMP?). For the GPU, there are a few programs; MSI has Afterburner, EVGA has PrecisionX and I'm sure ASUS has one too. I think they're all usable with any recent card though. vvv Sure, this review suggests that the number from the spec is actually pretty close to correct: http://www.guru3d.com/articles-pages/gtx-780-ti-sli-geforce-review,4.html Eletriarnation fucked around with this message at 01:04 on Sep 9, 2016 |
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Sep 9, 2016 00:36
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Eletriarnation posted:How old is the PSU? Seasonic tends to be a uniformly high quality manufacturer and the 780 Ti spec says that it only uses 250W. It also says that it recommends at least a 600W power supply but that's being really generous. Unless you have a lot of hard drives or a crazy+overclocked CPU (what is your CPU?), it would be hard to pull over 250W with the rest of the system put together. I'd definitely look at benchmarks for how much that card draws in a system because it isn't going to be the manufacturer's recommendation because the recommendation has a lot of fudge factor for makers of PSUs that emphatically aren't Seasonic. I'd be looking for 20% headroom just to be sure, but I'd expect you to have it.
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Sep 9, 2016 00:55
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Eletriarnation posted:How old is the PSU? Seasonic tends to be a uniformly high quality manufacturer and the 780 Ti spec says that it only uses 250W. It also says that it recommends at least a 600W power supply but that's being really generous. Unless you have a lot of hard drives or a crazy+overclocked CPU (what is your CPU?), it would be hard to pull over 250W with the rest of the system put together. The PSU is about 2 years old. My current processor is a Q9550 @ 2.83ghz but I am going to inherit an i5 fairly soon.
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Sep 9, 2016 01:15
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Partial Trip Report. I just finished assembling a new PC and I am so frustrated with the Seasonic Power Supply. The motherboard power cables on the Seasonic 660w are a giant pain in the rear end. For some idiot reason the part that plugs into the PSU are split across two rows so that wider part goes above the shorter half. There is not enough slack to plug them in one at a time. As if that wasn't enough, which was top and which was bottom was not clearly marked. This made it take 4 times as long to plug in as it should have and was way harder than it needed to be. D- would not buy again. LLSix fucked around with this message at 02:47 on Sep 9, 2016 |
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Sep 9, 2016 02:43
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I store the boxes of all of my components in my garage in case I sell parts off later or just to hold spare parts like modular PSU cables. I went out there today to get a modular PSU cable from the PSU box and discovered that someone broke in and stole all of the empty boxes. There's nothing of value there and it should have been completely obvious that the boxes were empty. So annoying. The also got the cooling shell from a GTX 1080 since I removed it to put the liquid cooler on. I hope they enjoy the junk. Frustrating.
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Sep 9, 2016 03:19
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Potential BFF posted:The PSU is about 2 years old. My current processor is a Q9550 @ 2.83ghz but I am going to inherit an i5 fairly soon. Hmm. The Q9550 can't possibly draw that much power to be an issue and 2 years isn't really old, so it may not be the PSU. It's always possible that your unit is failing to live up to its specs, but you may end up disappointed if you buy a new PSU and it doesn't fix the issue. Since an i5 will necessarily come with a new motherboard, you may wish to wait to make that change and see if this problem persists before you make any other changes to attempt to remedy it. Without another clear suspect the motherboard is always a possibility.
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Sep 9, 2016 03:48
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