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Your Loyal Vizier posted:Perfect, thank you! The RMx comes with a 10 year warranty too, which is perfect because I don't trust this guy to replace it at 5. I also swapped the RAM for something with more clearance and a lower price (yay cost fluctuations). But now suddenly the Cryorig H7 is out of stock everywhere... That cooler is plenty for Skylake if you can't find the Cryorig, but they both have paste preapplied so you don't need that garbage Arctic paste. If you're going to get paste at least get something decent like Noctua NT-H1 which should be the same price but better performing.
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Aug 31, 2016 15:24
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Any thoughts on Lian Li cases? They didn't get mentioned in the OP so I was wondering what the general take is on them; I'm looking at the LIAN LI PC-Q10WX. It's a step up in price, but not as big as those custom Kickstarter cases so it might be a good middle ground for me, and if they're built to last it might be worth it if I end up re-using it for a new build in 5 years
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Aug 31, 2016 15:27
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CharlieFoxtrot posted:Any thoughts on Lian Li cases? They didn't get mentioned in the OP so I was wondering what the general take is on them; I'm looking at the LIAN LI PC-Q10WX. It's a step up in price, but not as big as those custom Kickstarter cases so it might be a good middle ground for me, and if they're built to last it might be worth it if I end up re-using it for a new build in 5 years They are designed for boutique form-factor over functionality... a lot of them have very bad airflow design especially for the GPU, and they don't keep dust out either. They're all made of aluminum which is nice if you get a model with the carrying handle for a super light package. I checked them out in person at Microcenter before but stuck with my tried and true Core V1
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Aug 31, 2016 15:31
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CharlieFoxtrot posted:Any thoughts on Lian Li cases? They didn't get mentioned in the OP so I was wondering what the general take is on them; I'm looking at the LIAN LI PC-Q10WX. It's a step up in price, but not as big as those custom Kickstarter cases so it might be a good middle ground for me, and if they're built to last it might be worth it if I end up re-using it for a new build in 5 years 1) Ease of use is very high, especially mounting 2) Some nice soundproof elements, but missing some like foam on cases 3) It's not very good for filtering dust - at all - and it takes way too long to clean the front filter 4) It's heavy af, but that shouldn't be surprising 5) Some things like screws are impossible to buy replacements for, which sucks when they're supposed to be placed loosely in some cases. I've sacrificed the two screws for my front panel to the Vacuum God, so guess I'm not using a front panel anymore! It's only sort of prestigious, and as it is, I've currently got some tape on the front where I'm missing a placeholder panel to close the slot from where I used an optical drive, since that panel is somehow now gone, it's dusty as hell and not super silent, and my door panel is probably not gonna be used for good due to their dumbass screws that have been impossible to find online for years (here in Europe). I'm getting a beQuiet next time.
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Aug 31, 2016 17:09
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Zero VGS posted:That cooler is plenty for Skylake if you can't find the Cryorig, but they both have paste preapplied so you don't need that garbage Arctic paste. If you're going to get paste at least get something decent like Noctua NT-H1 which should be the same price but better performing. Oh, excellent! I'll just go with the pre-applied paste then, if it's acceptable. Applying my own makes me nervous, and I'm just building in the ability for him to overclock for prudence's sake. I don't know if he'll ever actually take advantage of it. Out of curiosity, why is the Arctic paste crappy and the noctua good? I just threw that brand on there because nerds seem to like it
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Aug 31, 2016 17:48
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Your Loyal Vizier posted:Oh, excellent! I'll just go with the pre-applied paste then, if it's acceptable. Applying my own makes me nervous, and I'm just building in the ability for him to overclock for prudence's sake. I don't know if he'll ever actually take advantage of it. Some people dislike AS5 because it's especially thick and can be a bit fussier to work with. Getting whatever is cheap is fine in general though. Using the stuff that comes with a cooler is also perfectly fine and is what would usually be done for a brand new build.
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Aug 31, 2016 18:05
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Zero VGS posted:They are designed for boutique form-factor over functionality... a lot of them have very bad airflow design especially for the GPU, and they don't keep dust out either. They're all made of aluminum which is nice if you get a model with the carrying handle for a super light package. Thanks for this. Hmm, now I am looking at the Core V1 more closely. I am also starting to become enamored with the idea of getting one of those tower coolers...
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Aug 31, 2016 20:01
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Col.Kiwi posted:Common thermal pastes are within 2-3 degrees of each other. http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/thermal-paste-performance-benchmark,3616-18.html The Noctua I mentioned is the same $6 a tube as the AS5, it performs a few degrees better, you get more applications from a tube, and most importantly it is non-conductive so if you get a little somewhere it won't fry anything. CharlieFoxtrot posted:Thanks for this. Hmm, now I am looking at the Core V1 more closely. I am also starting to become enamored with the idea of getting one of those tower coolers... The Core V1 is by far the easiest ITX case to build in because 5 of the 6 sides pop off it. You really don't need a big fuckoff cooler though, overclocked Skylake at most is going to put out around 100 watts, which a smaller sized cooler will disperse. Hell, in my Core V1 I use this completely passive cooler on an overclocked 6700k, and the front fan in the Core V1 keeps the whole thing frosty: https://www.amazon.com/NoFan-CR-80EH-IcePipe-Fanless-Cooler/dp/B00HW2O2L2
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Aug 31, 2016 20:30
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How does the V1 hold up with two 80mm fans on the back? When I upgrade my Node 304 it's one I'm looking at.
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Aug 31, 2016 21:16
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Bovril Delight posted:How does the V1 hold up with two 80mm fans on the back? When I upgrade my Node 304 it's one I'm looking at. Pretty well I think? You have the front fan, the CPU cooler (whether a tower or radiator), and the 80mm exhausts all lined up in a row. The CPU is laid down horizontally and is surrounded by plenty of rooms.. But I'm surprised that you're considering this an "upgrade"; I'd say that the Node 304 is generally superior to the Core V1 in everything except price and ease of access, and possibly aesthetics. If it's cooling you care about, the Node may have worse airflow but it's more than made up for by the ability to mount a 240mm radiator without modding.
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Aug 31, 2016 21:51
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Do you mean 140mm? I'm struggling how you could mount a 240mm in this case.
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Aug 31, 2016 22:23
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Bovril Delight posted:Do you mean 140mm? I'm struggling how you could mount a 240mm in this case. Oh, nevermind, I must have confused it with a different shoebox-type case - I'm positive there's one that lets you mount a 240mm radiator on the top side, I thought it was Fractal Design's. Looking it up, the Node 304 still supports 2x92mm radiators, which are slightly better than the Core V1's options (1x140mm max, and you might need to remove the front fan if it's a thick radiator and you want push/pull).
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Aug 31, 2016 22:56
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owls or something posted:Heavy means reliable. The Evo 212 will fit and work fine even with a mild overclock. I have a Phanteks PH-TC12DX_BK in mine because I wanted to push it. It is huge and heavy, has dual fans but comes with a splitter so it only uses one power source on the motherboard. I did not think about the limited fan headers on the ITX board, thank you so much for mentioning this. Switched the fan to match, just in case. Col.Kiwi posted:Common thermal pastes are within 2-3 degrees of each other. http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/thermal-paste-performance-benchmark,3616-18.html Zero VGS posted:it is non-conductive so if you get a little somewhere it won't fry anything.[/url] This is critical loving need to know. I went ahead and grabbed a tube of it, just in case I need it in the future, but I'll use the pre-applied paste for this build. Thank you so, so much everybody for all the help. We just pulled the trigger on the final build, with the adjustments suggested. I would have made so many missteps if not for this thread, I'm glad you guys are here.
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Sep 1, 2016 01:15
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Also, if you ever need to repaste a GPU cooler you need to do it with non-conductive paste. There's just no good reason to pick up Arctic Silver 5 anymore - get either Gelid GC Extreme or Noctua NT-H1. The Gelid stuff is just a little better than the NT-H1 nowadays but we're talking a matter of a degree or so.
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Sep 1, 2016 03:19
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NihilCredo posted:Oh, nevermind, I must have confused it with a different shoebox-type case - I'm positive there's one that lets you mount a 240mm radiator on the top side, I thought it was Fractal Design's. Are 92mm radiators even a thing?
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Sep 1, 2016 08:59
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Yes, but I don't think 92mm all-in-ones are. I can't find any actually being sold anywhere, just evidence that Asetek launched some in 2010 which may or may not still be available.
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Sep 1, 2016 11:48
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Paul MaudDib posted:Also, if you ever need to repaste a GPU cooler you need to do it with non-conductive paste. There's just no good reason to pick up Arctic Silver 5 anymore - get either Gelid GC Extreme or Noctua NT-H1. The Gelid stuff is just a little better than the NT-H1 nowadays but we're talking a matter of a degree or so. Good to know. It looks like the Gelid comes with a slick application tool too, I will throw a bookmark for that in my PC parts folder in case I ever run out of this Noctua tube (unlikely)
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Sep 1, 2016 16:51
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NihilCredo posted:Oh, nevermind, I must have confused it with a different shoebox-type case - I'm positive there's one that lets you mount a 240mm radiator on the top side, I thought it was Fractal Design's. I didn't even think to see if a 92mm radiator existed, since all I saw was the standard sizes. I have a 120mm radiator with a push/pull rear exhaust config currently. It does really well for the CPU but less so the GPU, although mid 70s at full tilt isn't that bad. I've got a speed fan profile for the exhaust fan tied to the GPU temp, but my next build I definitely want something with a bit more space, but I do love the shoebox style.
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Sep 2, 2016 02:55
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Hey folks, not sure if this is best place to ask this, but I'm looking to build a little "home server" type of deal. Basically, I'd like a headless computer where I can mess around with Linux and learn some programming, host a Terraria/Minecraft/Starbound server for my brother and I (not all at the same time), maaaybe install OpenVPN and eventually maybe using it for some sort of NAS (I've just got a HDD plugged into a router for that right now.) I don't need any sort of media server capability as I consume most of my media via streaming. Initially my thought was to use a Raspberry Pi, but I'm finding that I can maybe do one or two of those things, but it seems like not an ideal solution for all of the above. Is something like a NUC suitable for my needs?
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Sep 3, 2016 01:14
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This is not an advice post, I just wanted to thank everyone in this thread one more time for your invaluable help on that Define Nano S build. We put it together this weekend and it booted on the first try! Everything fit together just so, the Asus overclock wizard was stupid easy, and it's completely silent and chewing through everything we've thrown at it on Ultra. I've never seen my friend so pleased, and I'm actually pretty jealous of the footprint compared to my R5. All credit for our success goes to you guys and the main build thread, as far as I'm concerned. Thanks so much!
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Sep 6, 2016 21:06
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Alright, a few more questions: 1. Anyone have numbers on a ~6", single-fan GTX 1060 6 GB vs. a longer one? This is the one I was thinking of getting., an EVGA. Do they tend to throttle/have thermal issues compared to longer dual-fan cards? I wanted to mount this card so the air inlet/outlets are independent of the rest of the parts, so it would be sucking in ambient temperature air (~25° C most of the time). Should I spend a little extra and get the superclocked one, or does it tend to throttle under load? Is it worth the extra cost for SC? (lol not that I can get one now, they're all loving out of stock) 2. Which motherboard do yall recommend for a performance setup? I'm looking for socket LGA1151, DDR4 and NVME boot support. What other features are useful? Have you found AC wireless, U.2, or USB type-C all that useful? I'm planning on having it hard-wired at home, and I'm not sure the small size and portability incentivizes me to bring it places (friend's place for LAN party might be nice, but we do mostly GOG stuff on laptops.) My current front-runner is the ASRock Fatal1ty Z170 Gaming ITX/ac. edit: Is the Z170 the way to go for chipset, or will the performance be just as good with an H170 or H110 motherboard? lock stock and Cheryl fucked around with this message at 02:04 on Sep 7, 2016 |
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Sep 7, 2016 01:58
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For the most performance I believe Z170 is the only way to go cause you need it for the faster RAM speeds along with overclocking the CPU if you end up doing that.
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Sep 7, 2016 02:16
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It's kind of a terrible idea in most mITX cases but you can also get mATX/mITX X99 boards, and that's another viable choice for performance.
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Sep 7, 2016 02:36
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Paul MaudDib posted:It's kind of a terrible idea in most mITX cases but you can also get mATX/mITX X99 boards, and that's another viable choice for performance. Pretty much any x99 itx build should use an AIO watercooler if you don't want horrible sound levels.
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Sep 7, 2016 08:56
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Kaleidoscopic Gaze posted:Alright, a few more questions: From what I've heard Pascal chips in general are limited to a greater degree by their BIOS locking the voltages and to a lesser degree by silicon lottery, so the main difference that the coolers end up making is just appearance and noise levels. The 6" 1060s are expected to perform similarly to larger models, so feel free to get one if it makes life easier/cheaper. I would be skeptical of paying any significant amount for SC or other modifiers that imply binning. Z170 is mandatory if you wish to overclock or run memory at faster than 2133MHz, which has been shown to make a nontrivial difference in some games. I would recommend it for any performance-sensitive system. If you aren't running a K-chip or high speed memory then it doesn't matter.
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Sep 7, 2016 20:34
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This EVGA cards are great. Reviews indicate that they run as well as the longer cards, without throttling. Some people on NewEgg have complained of the cards hitting 95 degrees and throttling, but I take newegg user reviews with a grain of salt. Even if you do get a bad card, EVGA's warranty is great. The only reason I went with a larger MSI dual fan card is because I have a Nano S, and there would only be a 1/2" gap between the card and the Power supply. I wasn't comfortable with that, and the larger card meant I would have one unencumbered fan.
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Sep 8, 2016 00:45
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My Core V1 came in and... I guess it looks nice and seems well constructed. It doesn't seem that much smaller than my BitFenix Prodigy if you subtract those weird handles, though. I guess it's not as long? Though that's the least important dimension to me. At least it fits under my desk better than the Prodigy
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Sep 8, 2016 19:45
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CharlieFoxtrot posted:My Core V1 came in and... I guess it looks nice and seems well constructed. It doesn't seem that much smaller than my BitFenix Prodigy if you subtract those weird handles, though. I guess it's not as long? Though that's the least important dimension to me. At least it fits under my desk better than the Prodigy Yeah, it's definitely one of the bigger mITX cases. That kind of cases (Core V1, Prodigy, Sugo) are meant for you to save space without having to compromise on power or features - you can run liquid cooling, full-sized GPUs and PSUs, several mechanical drives, etc. all while keeping good airflow and easy access. You buy them because you don't need anything bigger, more than because you actively want to go small. I don't know what your system specs are, you may or may not have been able to get away with a smaller case like the popular Raven or Node 202. You sort of mentioned wanting to overclock your CPU, if you do the low-profile cooler required by slim cases would significantly reduce your maximum achievable clock, for example. Again, I don't know how much you care about that as opposed to saving (under-)desk space.
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Sep 8, 2016 20:21
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I think there's only one cubed ITX case smaller than the Core V1 that takes a full PSU, and that'd be the Coolermaster Elite 110, but that's a very bad case in comparison both for airflow and ease of building.
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Sep 9, 2016 04:12
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The Rosewill U3 takes a full sized PSU. I wouldn't really recommend it on the merits of the GPU length limit but I did manage to squeeze a 1070 in with no real issues. Others on PC Part Picker have fit reference Nvidia GPU's (980's, Titan X's). http://pcpartpicker.com/product/7WW9TW/rosewill-case-legacyu3b It's a decent hold over until the Dan A4 arrives.
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Sep 9, 2016 05:26
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Zero VGS posted:I think there's only one cubed ITX case smaller than the Core V1 that takes a full PSU, and that'd be the Coolermaster Elite 110, but that's a very bad case in comparison both for airflow and ease of building. SG13B takes a full sized PSU and is like 10 liters... Linus shoved a 1200W PSU in there, a 18 core Xeon and a Titan X.
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Sep 9, 2016 06:39
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I really wish the M1 and A4 were just regular products you could buy in a store or on a normal webpage. This age of pre-ordering kickstarterted/croudfunded stuff is kinda frustrating.
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Sep 9, 2016 11:05
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Agreed. I have a 3 month wait for the m1....
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Sep 9, 2016 17:03
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kind of want the dancase A4 even when i already have my M1sitting on my desk why do PCs have to be so big
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Sep 10, 2016 03:59
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You know, after having done a build for the first time in a long while, I appreciate the space to cram down all those cables, I don't know how I would have worked in a smaller space. I mean I guess I could have gotten custom short cables but
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Sep 10, 2016 04:19
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Smiles posted:kind of want the dancase A4 even when i already have my M1sitting on my desk
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Sep 10, 2016 05:30
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Smiles posted:kind of want the dancase A4 even when i already have my M1sitting on my desk This is my motivation for designing and building a tiny acrylic mini-itx box. These days, you can make a really nice computer without any internal drives and with a short graphics card. My goal is 8 x 8 x 8 (though PSU mounted sidecar most likely, unless I can fit an SFX psu inside without compromising airflow). It's a moot point for the next 4-5 months, but when I make it happen, I will post the results edit: 8x8x8 is my first goal, with a little creativity, I can probably get it to 8x8x5
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Sep 10, 2016 06:21
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Also, which mobo is better? The ASRock Fatal1ty Gaming ITX, or the Asus Z170I Pro Gaming?
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Sep 10, 2016 06:36
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beepsandboops posted:I wonder if half height graphics cards will start catching on at some point, it seems like the logical progression for the form factor Half height is kind if silly now that there are riser cards/cables and itx-length video cards.
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Sep 10, 2016 08:24
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Kaleidoscopic Gaze posted:Also, which mobo is better? The ASRock Fatal1ty Gaming ITX, or the Asus Z170I Pro Gaming? The ASRock is probably better in the abstract, but you need to look at the features your specific use case calls for. Bookmark this: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1saNUPX6ycN20R1Yu_lNDPpowTfVwmrQiwHYVNAoZenw/edit#gid=0 For example, I doubt you care at all about 6 SATA ports instead of 4, but you might care about having a Type-C USB port (ASRock) vs. having Bluetooth 4.1 support (Asus).
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Sep 10, 2016 09:38
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