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Fart Pipe posted:Is the 04 FXT one of the years where the tune is really sensitive to intake and exhaust modifications where the stock one runs on the edge of being too lean? I plan on doing the up pipe to get rid of the cat that can break up and damage the turbo and eventually a turbo back exhaust. I'm going to search around for info on those things but just wondering if I have to get a tune for them right away. You do. 
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Sep 8, 2016 02:56
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literally a fish posted:You do. Thats cool, just need to plan for that money-wise, thanks for the info. Gotta get the transmixer goin' first though anyway. I figured out how to drive it for now, just gotta plan for the 2-3 shift and feather the go pedal a little while it catches up. Sucks I cant get on it yet cause man this car really hauls the mail.
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Sep 8, 2016 03:19
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Fart Pipe posted:Is the 04 FXT one of the years where the tune is really sensitive to intake and exhaust modifications where the stock one runs on the edge of being too lean? I plan on doing the up pipe to get rid of the cat that can break up and damage the turbo and eventually a turbo back exhaust. I'm going to search around for info on those things but just wondering if I have to get a tune for them right away. Here, no - not really an issue. But given Subaru USA likes to have a poo poo tune that Australia wouldnt even think of...... check with Jamal.
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Sep 8, 2016 03:30
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Krakkles posted:How are the Crosstreks? We're looking at one as a mom car, she likes the cargo space and safety features, I like that it's not a Volkswagen. I had one for three years and it was a good, useful, boring car. The extra height over a regular impreza was nice for me not hitting my head on the hatch.
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Sep 8, 2016 04:13
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CAT INTERCEPTOR posted:Here, no - not really an issue. But given Subaru USA likes to have a poo poo tune that Australia wouldnt even think of...... check with Jamal. The US tune shits pistons with everything stock, soooo.
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Sep 8, 2016 05:47
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Pretty much every 2.5 turbo can have that problem. My theory is that there are many, many cars out there that would not pass a leakdown test. Definitely switch out the uppipe, I don't think you need to change/tune anything to do that. If anything it will make a car less likely to knock because the turbo, egt, and engine bay in general will not be as hot. Invidias are still my goto and cheap. The only thing is that you have to take off the downpipe to change the up-pipe. So it would not be any extra work to add a downpipe. But then you do need tuning.
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Sep 8, 2016 06:00
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OK thank you. The Invidia was the one I was looking at so good to know I that one's ok . I'd like to do that right away since the car has 200k on it and I don't mind taking the dp off again later as long as the turbo is safe for now.
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Sep 8, 2016 08:25
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Jamal - I just got someone's stock '06 STi up-pipe for cheap to replace my catted '05 LGT up-pipe. I'm planning on getting a pre-emptive engine rebuild and additional work/tuning done in the next year. Is there enough of an advantage to an aftermarket up-pipe over the STi part for moderate (say 300 whp) power goals?
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Sep 8, 2016 14:26
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Scrambles posted:Jamal - I just got someone's stock '06 STi up-pipe for cheap to replace my catted '05 LGT up-pipe. I'm planning on getting a pre-emptive engine rebuild and additional work/tuning done in the next year. Is there enough of an advantage to an aftermarket up-pipe over the STi part for moderate (say 300 whp) power goals?
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Sep 8, 2016 16:37
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Scrambles posted:Is there enough of an advantage to an aftermarket up-pipe over the STi part for moderate (say 300 whp) power goals?
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Sep 8, 2016 16:51
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My son is a Subaru master tech, and he likes to send me before and after pics of some of the work he does. I assume he sent me this because it takes me a month to put together an engine. 2015 STI motor. This morning  This afternoon. 
daslog fucked around with this message at 02:19 on Sep 9, 2016 |
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Sep 9, 2016 00:55
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Probably idiot questions, but why no power steering or alternator and what's the giant plastic box tumor on the right side cover?
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Sep 9, 2016 04:33
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The plastic tumor is the air injection pump, it pumps fresh air into the exhaust to improve catalytic converter efficiency to clean up the emissions on startup. No ps and alt is probably because the ps is just strapped to the side of the engine bay since you don't need to disconnect it to remove the motor.
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Sep 9, 2016 04:38
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What do you do about AC when you pull a motor? Is it just a matter of needing the expensive AC equipment to store the freon and then pull vacuum/refill?
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Sep 9, 2016 04:53
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Mr. Powers posted:What do you do about AC when you pull a motor? Is it just a matter of needing the expensive AC equipment to store the freon and then pull vacuum/refill? You just unbolt the compressor fron the bracketry and set it aside, mine went where the battery is on my 99 Forester. Its similar to how I have done it any other way with any car... 
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Sep 9, 2016 05:17
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The lower bolts are pretty hard to get to. Injector brackets and manifold itself are in the way, so it's a lot easier to install the a/c compressor before the intake manifold. I've always finagled it in/out and left the lines connected. Plus we didn't have a/c recovery charging stuff in the shop. Disconnecting the lines is the official procedure though. P/S pump you definitely leave in the car. jamal fucked around with this message at 08:31 on Sep 9, 2016 |
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Sep 9, 2016 05:38
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I was mostly asking because it looked like there was an AC compressor on that rebuild on the stand.
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Sep 9, 2016 13:26
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Bajaha posted:The plastic tumor is the air injection pump, it pumps fresh air into the exhaust to improve catalytic converter efficiency to clean up the emissions on startup. I remember the E46 had an air injection pump that was electrical on the exhaust side of the engine bay. That thing was loud as poo poo. I wonder if there is a pro or con to having it being driven off the cams and possibly being a drag when not needed instead of how BMW did it.
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Sep 9, 2016 15:33
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Question for you guys. 2013 WRX, cobb intake and down pipe, borla cat back, 60K miles, access port on the 91 tune. The other night the car was fine. Parked for about an hour, then had a slow start with a tapping noise. Tapping/rattle continued but didn't increase with RPM, and went away occasionally. Car stalled with clutch in at a stop sign, but other than that ran fine the entire drive with the exception of the tapping. No CEL, no codes, but now the car has a no start condition. Cranks and cranks but never fires. Starter tests good. Battery is good. Timing belt hasn't jumped a tooth. Pulled oil pan, no metal shavings and rods look fine as well. Our thought currently is CPS. Any other ideas? Tapping/rattle sounds almost like a heat shield rattle but isn't, and was present mostly at low RPM but didn't increase in rate or sound with higher revs.
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Sep 10, 2016 00:37
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Fuel issues maybe? Edit:. Do you hear the pump prime when you turn the key but before starting? Normally a whirring for 2-3 seconds in the rear of the car. Mercury Ballistic fucked around with this message at 00:57 on Sep 10, 2016 |
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Sep 10, 2016 00:43
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Welp, I traded my WRX in (for a canadian car, no less!) today. It's bittersweet. On the one hand, it will be nice not worrying about the next thing to go wrong, on the other hand, I will miss it. We picked up a low kilometers Mazda3 that my wife will drive until her foot is healed and she can driver her manual Impreza again, and then I'll drive it for a few years until Subaru sells a WRX wagon again. I had asked Village Subaru not to put a sticker on it, and told them that me recommending them to my friends and family would bring them more business than a sticker would. When I was taking off the plates today, I realized that I never got around to taking that sticker off in eight years of ownership.
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Sep 10, 2016 01:00
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A couple of years ago my 2012 STI was in an accident. Among other parts the radiator was replaced. Today when getting some work done, the garage I went to noted that the radiator is for an automatic WRX rather than an STI and advised me to have it replaced with the appropriate part so I wouldn't burn up the transmission. Nobody who's looked at the car has said anything about it until now. Looking back at the invoice from the body shop, they claim to have replaced it with an "aftermarket STi MT w/turbo radiator" (Koyo I think, been a while since I looked at it), which sounds like the right part (relative quality of Koyo notwithstanding). I know an automatic vehicle needs some additional cooling, but I didn't think the STI's manual did. The body shop that did the work is very reputable and I don't think they'd have messed this up, so if anything I would tend to go with it having been misidentified today. That said I kind of want to get to the bottom of it. So, what should I look for on the radiator when the sun comes up tomorrow, and if it is in fact an automatic transmission radiator, how badly have I trashed my transmission these last couple of years? Koyo's website doesn't really help besides having the same part number for WRX and STIs of that model year and nobody else seems to have any definitive information.
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Sep 10, 2016 02:46
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Midjack posted:A couple of years ago my 2012 STI was in an accident. Among other parts the radiator was replaced. Today when getting some work done, the garage I went to noted that the radiator is for an automatic WRX rather than an STI and advised me to have it replaced with the appropriate part so I wouldn't burn up the transmission. Nobody who's looked at the car has said anything about it until now. Looking back at the invoice from the body shop, they claim to have replaced it with an "aftermarket STi MT w/turbo radiator" (Koyo I think, been a while since I looked at it), which sounds like the right part (relative quality of Koyo notwithstanding). I know an automatic vehicle needs some additional cooling, but I didn't think the STI's manual did. The body shop that did the work is very reputable and I don't think they'd have messed this up, so if anything I would tend to go with it having been misidentified today. That said I kind of want to get to the bottom of it. So, what should I look for on the radiator when the sun comes up tomorrow, and if it is in fact an automatic transmission radiator, how badly have I trashed my transmission these last couple of years? Koyo's website doesn't really help besides having the same part number for WRX and STIs of that model year and nobody else seems to have any definitive information. Assuming it's a Manual Transmission STI, I'm a bit confused as to why the transmission would be hooked to the radiator at all.
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Sep 10, 2016 02:58
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daslog posted:Assuming it's a Manual Transmission STI, I'm a bit confused as to why the transmission would be hooked to the radiator at all. It would not be, if it's an MT it has no external cooler - but if it's got an AT radiator in an MT car, to someone only half paying attention it might look like there ought to be something hooked up to the AT cooler lines in the rad. E: I've seen quite a few aftermarket radiators that only come in AT versions as you can just cap off / leave unconnected the AT cooler lines in an MT car and it means the radiator manufacturer only has to have one SKU, so if it got an aftermarket rad, yeah. vvv Yup (assuming it's an MT car) literally a fish fucked around with this message at 03:32 on Sep 10, 2016 |
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Sep 10, 2016 03:28
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literally a fish posted:It would not be, if it's an MT it has no external cooler - but if it's got an AT radiator in an MT car, to someone only half paying attention it might look like there ought to be something hooked up to the AT cooler lines in the rad. A really stupid person. Don't bring your car back there. It's staffed by idiots.
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Sep 10, 2016 03:30
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daslog posted:A really stupid person. Don't bring your car back there. It's staffed by idiots. That's kind of what I'm thinking. The only reason they got my business at all is they're close enough to work I can drop off there and pick up at the end of my workday.
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Sep 10, 2016 03:44
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It's an STI, they are only manual. (except for possible some japan only models) There is no trans cooler for the sti.
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Sep 10, 2016 04:06
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jamal posted:It's an STI, they are only manual. (except for possible some japan only models) Wait what? Yes there is. Has been for sometimes. There is a trans cooler for the autos. Also a Auto radiator in a manual typically is a good thing with the right holes blocked. Or setting up an external oil cooler. Depends on what was done CAT INTERCEPTOR fucked around with this message at 04:50 on Sep 10, 2016 |
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Sep 10, 2016 04:22
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Ok, sorry for not being clear; there is no trans cooler built into the radiator for an sti in the US. If there is a trans cooler integrated into the radiator for any MT car I would be surprised. Yeah I'd assume there is a trans cooler for the 6mt in other markets or as a group n part but I doubt it is part of the radiator like the AT cars have. [quote="CAT INTERCEPTOR" post=""464089619"] Also a Auto radiator in a manual typically is a good thing with the right holes blocked. [/quote] How does that work? you have empty space in the radiator not being used for cooling coolant. Oil cooler built into radiator can work. I don't think I would try to route engine oil through a stock AT radiator though. May cause an excessive pressure drop and they only have hose barbs and low pressure going through them. jamal fucked around with this message at 05:40 on Sep 10, 2016 |
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Sep 10, 2016 04:51
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An auto radiator is built to deal with more heat and typically has better cooling, more rows or deeper tanks. Old racing trick that's older than I am where racing limited aftermarket radiators. The GT auto radiator is a thicker unit than a manual WRX of the same vintage. The auto trans in this case has two lines looping into the bottom of the radiator and is thence deeper. Block the auto trans lines, you haev a handy upgrade for a manual car. Auto radiators are also unsually used in a towing package, not to cool the manual trans but simply a better radiator.
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Sep 10, 2016 13:09
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Got some potential trouble with my 2012 Impreza. Really poor timing as I'm unemployed and have two interviews later this week that are each over 100 mile round trip. I noticed the Check Engine and Traction Control light was shortly after leaving my home. I didn't notice anything too particular about the way it drove but I decided to turn back just in case. I fortunately have an OBD reader (thanks to my brother having an old lovely car that was barely passing inspection) which returned the codes U0073 and P1449. U0073 seems to indicate a communication wiring issue or control module malfunction and P1149 seems to indicate an issue with the fuel tank vent. I don't know if the two occurring together means anything since everything I've read online is asking about one or the other. I'm due for an oil change soon anyways so I'll have the dealer look at it when I go in. I hope this doesn't take my car out of commission for too long while it's being serviced. Gonna have to change my evening plans to do something a little closer to here out of caution but it should be fine to drive as long as I take care of this soon, right?
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Sep 11, 2016 01:14
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Gas cap screwed on tight?
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Sep 11, 2016 01:16
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Just checked. First I tightened it and then took the cap off and on twice. Unless I need to clear the codes or drive it some way, CEL and TCS lights are still on.
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Sep 11, 2016 01:22
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Edward IV posted:Just checked. First I tightened it and then took the cap off and on twice. Unless I need to clear the codes or drive it some way, CEL and TCS lights are still on. Pretty sure you need to clear the codes.
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Sep 11, 2016 01:24
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Not Nipsy Russell posted:Pretty sure you need to clear the codes. I think also this, though not sure on your specific model. In other news, what in the world would cause the engine oil light on a 2013 Forester 2.5x to be red (plenty of oil so I'm guessing overheating?) and varying in intensity? Rest of the cluster is constant, but the light goes completely out at a stop, then brightens with throttle input. (Currently being driven home by my wife). This goes against my basic understanding that increased air flow should cool things down at speed??
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Sep 11, 2016 01:35
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The oil light is a pressure idiot light (unless they made it something different in newer cars) and should only light up when oil pressure is below like 4psi or something stupidly useless like that That's fuckin' weird
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Sep 11, 2016 01:40
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Please stop driving a car with an oil pressure light on. Like tow it. It is the most serious light on your car. It may just be a sensor, but it could be a bad pump or something. The turbos have issues with the oil intake thing cracking. If the oil pressure light is due to a pressure issue and its being driven, enjoy buying a new motor.
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Sep 11, 2016 01:54
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Is it normally a variable light for oil pressure, though? I readily admit driving a car with any oil issues is inviting catastrophe, but I'm trying to rule out stuff I can do easily already without having a crash course in troubleshooting hard to access/expensive parts. Only thing I know how to do with oil is change it. Sensors and pumps? Couldn't pick them out of a lineup (yet) Edit: some further time to Google makes me think I'll start by replacing the pressure switch, which sounds like it's at the front of the engine. As long as it's less of a pain than the spark plugs were, can't be that bad? PabloBOOM fucked around with this message at 02:57 on Sep 11, 2016 |
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Sep 11, 2016 02:47
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Looks like clearing the codes did the trick for now though I only drove it for about two miles afterwords. The problem being the gas cap kind of makes sense since I filled up yesterday but didn't pay attention to hear if the attendant closed the cap completely. :nj: Odd that it took until now for the CEL light to come on now since I drove over 100 miles right after filling up yesterday. Also odd that you would have to have an OBD reader or take the car in somewhere to clear an issue caused by a lapse in judgement. (I don't know how likely that is because I live in NJ and rarely pump my own gas) That is unless it is because not having a secured cap results in a false positive for more serious issues.
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Sep 11, 2016 03:07
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Edward IV posted:Looks like clearing the codes did the trick for now though I only drove it for about two miles afterwords. Same thing happened to me a couple of years ago; I got distracted and didn't put my gas cap back on and I drove about 100 miles that night and the next day before Christmastime on the dashboard. Anything having to do with fuel system pressure can be a big deal so it's a sticky light.
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Sep 11, 2016 03:21
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