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At the end of the day, is the price in total what you want? The doc fee isn't required, but most dealers will try to charge for it.
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Sep 9, 2016 01:10
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It's a phenomenal price. I'm such a hard rear end. I just think doc fees are bullshit.
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Sep 9, 2016 01:11
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photomikey posted:It's a phenomenal price. I'm such a hard rear end. I just think doc fees are bullshit. It kind of is. It's why a lot of people recommend negotiating on an "out the door" price inclusive all whatever fees and other bullshit. They can rearrange the numbers however they want to come up with that price.
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Sep 9, 2016 01:18
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Out of curiosity, what's the vehicle and price you got it down to? Happy negotiating 
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Sep 9, 2016 01:18
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Doc fees are absolute bullshit but I've never once found a dealer willing to budge on it. I've occasionally found some small variance in what they charge, but usually they all charge whatever the local legal maximum is.
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Sep 9, 2016 01:26
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I've specifically told dealers twice that there's no keep-a-building fee because that's part of their vehicle price and that they just want an excuse to charge more or they've got bad bookkeeping if they can't figure their overhead correctly. I then walked out. One time they dropped the fee, another time I bought something somewhere else. Always be willing to walk! Doc fees are frickin idiotic.
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Sep 9, 2016 01:56
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Usually dealers in a given region operate as a cartel and all charge the same standard doc fee. It's bad but unavoidable.
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Sep 9, 2016 15:54
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If you add the doc fee into the total does it feel like youre still getting a good deal? Thats the only question that matters.
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Sep 9, 2016 17:29
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Yeah, I beat the guy up pretty good on price.
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Sep 9, 2016 18:01
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Then pretend its part of the sale price and move on.
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Sep 9, 2016 18:41
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Ok, done deal. I am buying the car in Phoenix. I am driving it to California and will register it in CA. Dealer wants me to pay sales tax in AZ and then show the receipt to the CA DMV folks who will then credit me for that tax paid. Some googling shows anecdotal evidence that that's how it works. Can anyone confirm this?
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Sep 9, 2016 19:10
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Let's talk Canadian cars. Local dealer is selling a 61k Mazda3 priced at 61,000 miles. I'm 99% certain it's only 61,000 kilometers. I'm having my guy check it out right now, but am I asking for it with this?
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Sep 9, 2016 19:10
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is it a mazda3 with 50 grand of blow in the trunk or what
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Sep 9, 2016 19:12
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KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:is it a mazda3 with 50 grand of blow in the trunk or what Maybe he meant 16k?
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Sep 9, 2016 19:19
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Nah, he means like, 60k miles is a lot more actual distance traveled than 60k kilometers I don't know how you'd tell if it's reading one or the other, I don't think it displays units. But if you're right and it's actually displaying kilometers aren't they pricing the car too LOW? Roll the dice and snap it up, either way 61k miles isn't that much.
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Sep 9, 2016 19:24
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I meant 61,000 on the odometer. They're asking $10k.
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Sep 9, 2016 19:24
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I checked on the test drive against mile markers. 99% certain it's KM.
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Sep 9, 2016 19:25
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Mr. Powers posted:I checked on the test drive against mile markers. 99% certain it's KM. So it's their mistake if they hosed it up and priced it as if it had 1.6 times more wear on it than it actually has.
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Sep 9, 2016 19:26
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Yeah, I guess I'm concerned its going to cause problems if I try to sell it down the road, though. All the registration records are km = miles, so I can have people entering it in properly or it looks like a rollback.
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Sep 9, 2016 19:32
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Depreciation is nonlinear, so even if you end up selling it with 100k miles instead of km, you'll still come out ahead. Essentially, you're saving $1500 on the price now and you'll sell it for $500 less than normal.
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Sep 9, 2016 23:26
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Well, I have it now. I'm pretty happy with the deal. I'm less happy with constantly having to convert C to F for outside temperature. This is going to be immersion therapy for metric.
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Sep 9, 2016 23:45
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There should be a way to change the display units. Maybe not the odo but the other stuff.
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Sep 10, 2016 00:06
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A lot of cars have a press this button while licking your nuts to switch to miles
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Sep 10, 2016 00:09
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Mr. Powers posted:Well, I have it now. I'm pretty happy with the deal. I'm less happy with constantly having to convert C to F for outside temperature. This is going to be immersion therapy for metric. That would drive me insane but congrats, they're very fun cars.
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Sep 10, 2016 00:46
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tater_salad posted:A lot of cars have a press this button while licking your nuts to switch to miles I called a Mazda dealership while getting the car checked out and the only way to do that is to replace the cluster, which would roll it back to 0000. Other posters are likely correct about the outside temperature units.
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Sep 10, 2016 00:57
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I have a 2005 Nissan Altima 3.5 SE with 58k miles on it. It overall runs good and I've followed the recommended maintenance for it. So far it looks like it's not really worth too much depending on where I looks but it runs solid. Would it make more sense for me to keep the car especially since the milage is low?
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Sep 10, 2016 19:47
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ZenVulgarity posted:I have a 2005 Nissan Altima 3.5 SE with 58k miles on it. It overall runs good and I've followed the recommended maintenance for it. So far it looks like it's not really worth too much depending on where I looks but it runs solid. Would it make more sense for me to keep the car especially since the milage is low? Do you need a car? If you don't need or want a car, you should sell all the cars you own. If you're asking if you should replace a perfectly good car for no reason, which is what it seems like, this is always a bad idea.
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Sep 10, 2016 20:57
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Twerk from Home posted:Do you need a car? If you don't need or want a car, you should sell all the cars you own. If you're asking if you should replace a perfectly good car for no reason, which is what it seems like, this is always a bad idea. It's the latter. And I kind of figured.
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Sep 10, 2016 23:39
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photomikey posted:I haven't bought a used car from a dealer in a while. I am at a fair price with a dealer. Price plus tax, title, license. 
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Sep 12, 2016 18:09
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photomikey posted:To give the story some closure, I ended up buying a 2014 Mercedes SLK 250 from an out-of-state dealer for about $3-4k less than I thought I could get it locally. I got some good advice from this thread and a couple of threads in AI (particularly the Vroom thread), I appreciate all the advice! Very nice ride, congratulations. How do you like it?
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Sep 12, 2016 18:48
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On top of a somewhat lovely dealer experience, I had a really lovely pre-purchase inspection experience, so that soured me a bit. But I love the car!!
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Sep 12, 2016 19:19
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I'd be interested in the details on your dealer and PPI experience. A lot of people are afraid of buying from out of state dealers, but I haven't read about a lot of people who have actually tried it.
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Sep 12, 2016 19:28
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photomikey posted:To give the story some closure, I ended up buying a 2014 Mercedes SLK 250 from an out-of-state dealer for about $3-4k less than I thought I could get it locally. I got some good advice from this thread and a couple of threads in AI (particularly the Vroom thread), I appreciate all the advice! This is exactly what I pictured.
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Sep 12, 2016 19:30
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Bovril Delight posted:This is exactly what I pictured.
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Sep 12, 2016 20:19
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I'm in Canada and in need of a car basically just for short work commute and 100 to 400 km one way trips to see family on weekends once a month or so. I hadn't really considered nissans but am able to get fairly good deal on a couple through a friend. Just looking for opinion on choosing between a 51k km '13 altima sl or just a new sentra. The comfort of the altima seems nice both seem efficient but as stated I don't know much about nissan besides what I've read online. Is there any obvious choice here? Should I just not buy a nissan even though I can get better price on these than other comparable cars? Main things I'm looking for are efficiency and reliability with comfort being bonus. I'm considering these because of pricing if the general consensus is neither for these I can fill out template and look at other brands.
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Sep 12, 2016 21:30
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Why Nissan? They're not particularly compelling and aren't really known for quality/longevity.
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Sep 12, 2016 22:09
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photomikey posted:To give the story some closure, I ended up buying a 2014 Mercedes SLK 250 from an out-of-state dealer for about $3-4k less than I thought I could get it locally. I got some good advice from this thread and a couple of threads in AI (particularly the Vroom thread), I appreciate all the advice! Congrats. If it has runflats get rid of them by driving them down to nothing at a track or something.
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Sep 12, 2016 22:38
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H110Hawk posted:Congrats. If it has runflats get rid of them by driving them down to nothing at a track or something. Do goons hate those or something?
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Sep 12, 2016 22:58
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I think everyone hates them. They tend to ride harsh and not handle as well as comparable normal tires.
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Sep 12, 2016 23:05
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Michael Scott posted:Do goons hate those or something? They're really hard and often from the factory mediocre compared to comparably priced (or even cheaper) higher performing tires. Going from factory all-season runflats to Bridgestone Potenza RE-11's was night and day difference. I mean sure they don't last nearly as long but this is a midlife crisis don't let money stop you. http://www.tirerack.com/tires/TireS...rSortCode=53950 (This assumes a 18" diameter and the "sport package.")
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Sep 12, 2016 23:15
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