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some texas redneck posted:Keep in mind the Vibe is another NUMI venture; mechanically, it's almost all Toyota, except for the heating/ac system - I think the US market Vibe and Matrix may have even been built side by side in the same factory? (not 100% on that) The Matrix was essentially a stretched Corolla. They're the same car but it is someones dad driving a corolla based car. Probably has some bastard rear torsion beam suspension that just cares if something is there to dampen.
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Sep 8, 2016 02:06
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| # ? May 17, 2024 18:52 |
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My 1966 Corvette is registered normally, because I abhor the antique/classic plates every state seems to offer (why the gently caress would I want a Model T on it?). Sadly I no longer live in a state that lets you use year-of-manufacture plates (one of the few things I miss about Utah was rocking '66 plates), but oh well. Usually vehicles over 25 years old are cheaper to register whether you go the classic/antique route or not. This was like $50 vs the $300 for my 2012 Jeep. Next year I'll dig into classic insurance...it's not a high-value car, but I've frankly never given it the due diligence I should've.
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Sep 8, 2016 02:25
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Every single classic car insurance requires a garage (or locked parking) that I've seen, and has a mile-limit on the plans that qualify you for those special "no emissions/no inspections" classic plates in nearly all states. Some states have "historic" plates for vehicles over X years old or built before <arbitrary year>, but those are not always the same. You can get more freedom by going with an "agreed value" plan with a standard insurance carrier. Note! With a standard carrier, with values above a certain amount based on the year and ACV of the vehicle (and also factor in any big discrepancy between KBB value and the agreed value, if it's a car new enough that KBB applies but old enough to be a classic), your rates will be very high.
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Sep 8, 2016 02:26
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drat, I was really hoping that insurance and stuff would be cheaper and more simple than a modern car. Wait a second, how expensive are we talking? And is it yearly or quarterly? I'm looking at 60's-70's classics worth between $4-$6k. Maybe I do some aggressive restomods over a couple years and bring the value up to about $8-$10k, but I'm not trying to get a Gullwing Merc or anything worth real money. I just want to make sure that if I am in another rough accident, I'm not handed a check for $800 and told to shove it up my rear end. And I also want to have the ability to drive when and where I want to, like every other car owner What about registering as a custom car, or is that a whole can of worms that I don't want to go near? The process for registering seems pretty straightforward and many of the weirder requirements are what I'd want installed anyways, but I feel like I would have to meet with several appraisers and have lots of not fun conversations about every tiny detail of my car
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Sep 8, 2016 03:21
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Shop around. Have a defined mileage you want to drive and ask for a monthly rate. Define the # of drivers (like in a multi-driver household, only YOU) Have all the things they bill out on available and ask for specific rates on these criteria. Now for my question: What dodge truck 1500 or 2500 series 4x4, year range 2000-2006ish has a frame rail width of: inside dimension 34-3/4" outside dimension 39-7/8" I've been searching every dodge forum and wikipedia and it's such a mess it makes me want to avoid dodge. ... But I got this sweet plow mount & plow for free with these dimensions and hundreds of cheap trucks to choose from. This is the one impossible to find dimension.
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Sep 8, 2016 03:44
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Slick posted:Shop around. Have a defined mileage you want to drive and ask for a monthly rate. Define the # of drivers (like in a multi-driver household, only YOU) Have all the things they bill out on available and ask for specific rates on these criteria.
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Sep 8, 2016 04:36
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My old car has small leaks of oil and power steering fluid and was stored at a friend's driveway until the person taking it off my hands was available to pick it up. I put a vinyl mat underneath and it had dried spots where the fluids dripped on it, how do I dispose of it safely? Do I need to take it to a disposal site or will they just call me an idiot and tell me to throw it away?
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Sep 8, 2016 04:42
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If it's dry like you say, it's fine to go in the garbage in most cities. If you want to be 100%, google "<your city name> environmental waste department" and call them.
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Sep 8, 2016 05:09
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I can also get a set of Firestones for $422 but I guess the question really should be, will the Primewells last me at least 3 years until we can trade in or sell that car? If it were my car we'd get the best tires. But my husband's car is 15 years old and we wont be keeping it forever. I'm probably going to shop around. We have a Walmart tire center near us and some other smaller local tire shops so we can see what we can find.
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Sep 8, 2016 11:20
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Chekans 3 16 posted:My old car has small leaks of oil and power steering fluid and was stored at a friend's driveway until the person taking it off my hands was available to pick it up. I put a vinyl mat underneath and it had dried spots where the fluids dripped on it, how do I dispose of it safely? Do I need to take it to a disposal site or will they just call me an idiot and tell me to throw it away? Burn the mat in your backyard. It's probably safe to toss in any cans of oil you have laying around as well.
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Sep 8, 2016 14:35
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JibbaJabberwocky posted:I can also get a set of Firestones for $422 but I guess the question really should be, will the Primewells last me at least 3 years until we can trade in or sell that car? If it were my car we'd get the best tires. But my husband's car is 15 years old and we wont be keeping it forever. *this is from the guy who is contemplating buying quality, name-brand used tires for his lifted Golf.
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Sep 8, 2016 15:27
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JibbaJabberwocky posted:I can also get a set of Firestones for $422 but I guess the question really should be, will the Primewells last me at least 3 years until we can trade in or sell that car? If it were my car we'd get the best tires. But my husband's car is 15 years old and we wont be keeping it forever. If you were replacing the seat belts, would you be asking the same question? Because tires are more important.
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Sep 8, 2016 15:42
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JibbaJabberwocky posted:I can also get a set of Firestones for $422 but I guess the question really should be, will the Primewells last me at least 3 years until we can trade in or sell that car? If it were my car we'd get the best tires. But my husband's car is 15 years old and we wont be keeping it forever. It's more about miles than years as for how long will they last. Then when you get in to quality of tires - is this going to wear evenly over those 40,000 miles? As long as you're aligned and maintain air pressure and rotate regularly, good tires will. Bad tires will cup, scuff, wear unevenly. I'm sure road noise might not be a huge concern, but there is a difference - better tires will be quieter. The most important things - are these tires going to keep my car attached to the road? Better tires will effect cornering, braking, acceleration, emergency maneuvers. Do you want bad tires when a car pulls out of a parking lot without looking or a child runs into the street? And what if its raining? Or snowing?
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Sep 8, 2016 16:26
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JibbaJabberwocky posted:I can also get a set of Firestones for $422 but I guess the question really should be, will the Primewells last me at least 3 years until we can trade in or sell that car? If it were my car we'd get the best tires. But my husband's car is 15 years old and we wont be keeping it forever. Get the Firestones then. That's a pretty negligible difference in the long run - $130 or so over a couple years. Chinese ditchfinder tires are called that because they do just that, they find ditches. It's less about the car and more about what's in it. If you want him dead or in an accident, get the cheapest hardest longest wearing hockey puck tires you can find, if you like him alive and with the standard complement of arms and legs, get decent tires that won't slide all over the place and cause an accident (or result in him not avoiding one) if some doofus pulls out in front of him in a rainstorm without looking because their cellphone conversation was more important. Whatever tires were on one of my cars when I got it were both crappy and old (and thus dried out and more slippery.) Even with only 73hp I could spin a tire all the way through first and into second on dry pavement. With rain, I could spin them even longer. With good tires it doesn't spin the tires at all, and braking/steering performance is similarly improved.
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Sep 8, 2016 19:32
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FogHelmut posted:Closer are those heat shrink crimp terminals that they haven't actually heat shrunk after fitting? That makes it even worse!
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Sep 8, 2016 23:10
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They're not heat shrink, they're the cheapest terminals you can find in walmart. It's loose-fitting plastic.
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Sep 8, 2016 23:47
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Godholio posted:They're not heat shrink, they're the cheapest terminals you can find in walmart. It's loose-fitting plastic. It allows for expansion with temperature changes. 
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Sep 9, 2016 02:59
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The Door Frame posted:drat, I was really hoping that insurance and stuff would be cheaper and more simple than a modern car. Wait a second, how expensive are we talking? And is it yearly or quarterly? I'm looking at 60's-70's classics worth between $4-$6k. Maybe I do some aggressive restomods over a couple years and bring the value up to about $8-$10k, but I'm not trying to get a Gullwing Merc or anything worth real money. I just want to make sure that if I am in another rough accident, I'm not handed a check for $800 and told to shove it up my rear end. And I also want to have the ability to drive when and where I want to, like every other car owner I think the main attraction to classic car insurance is that it's usually declared value, since normal insurance probably won't really know what the car is worth. But in your case, just register and insure it as a normal car. I have my '65 Impala and '60 F100 insured through AAA as just normal-rear end vehicles (not classics) and I pay $67/mo for both. I've only got liability on them, but it's not bare minimums (100k/300k). Additional coverage will obviously cost more, but the numbers look reasonable for the amount of coverage I've got. I guess my point is that even without classic insurance it's not prohibitively expensive to register and insure classics as normal vehicles, and drive them without mileage or housing restrictions.
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Sep 9, 2016 05:28
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Why not at least add comprehensive?
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Sep 9, 2016 06:52
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some texas redneck posted:Why not at least add comprehensive? I've been considering it. I probably will, once money becomes a little less tight.
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Sep 9, 2016 08:22
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Thanks for everyone who gave me car advise. We went with the Firestone tires and are doing all the work they suggested on the vehicle to keep it running a bit longer. Luckily they called us yesterday to say they were doing a deal, $100 off $500 of work or more, and we were putting $700 into his car so in the end we can get it all done and save money too. Hopefully we can keep the thing running for a few more years!
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Sep 9, 2016 15:02
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My car is a 2008, and the windshield has become...textured? When bright sunlight hits it, there are thousands of small specks that add up to make it appear sort of like the windshield is dirty. It's not just dirty, though. Even after a healthy cleaning the effect persists. My suspicion is that it's just wear on a 8 year old windshield, but I could be way off. I wish I could provide a picture, but I can't find or take anything that adequately illustrates what I'm encountering. Someone has to have experienced this before. Can I wax these microscopic dings out or something?
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Sep 9, 2016 20:38
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Your glass is pitted from years of impacts with tiny rocks and sand. The only way to fix this would be to individually fill each pit or else grind the glass down to a uniform level, neither of which are really practical or cost effective vs. replacing the whole windshield.
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Sep 9, 2016 20:45
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I have heard clay bar can help a bit, but never tried it.
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Sep 9, 2016 20:59
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Mercury Ballistic posted:I have heard clay bar can help a bit, but never tried it. Worth a shot https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vJkfrY2owb0
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Sep 9, 2016 21:02
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Worth a shot, but in general, you'll only fix sand damage to the windshield by resurfacing it with a 4lb blacksmiths hammer.
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Sep 9, 2016 21:17
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Geoj posted:Your glass is pitted from years of impacts with tiny rocks and sand. The only way to fix this would be to individually fill each pit or else grind the glass down to a uniform level, neither of which are really practical or cost effective vs. replacing the whole windshield. Ugh. What's a new windshield usually cost, and will insurance cover it if it hasn't broken yet?
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Sep 9, 2016 21:33
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Depends on the make/model, couple hundred dollars installed for your average run of the mill econo/shitbox all the way up to $1000+ for luxury models that have features like heated glass. Insurance will cover windshield replacement but you usually need to have a crack longer than a currency note's long edge before they'll authorize a replacement instead of just repairing the glass.
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Sep 9, 2016 21:38
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Find a gravel truck and follow closely. you may incur a net loss from having to get your car re-painted
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Sep 9, 2016 21:58
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Mine is definitely going to be on the more expensive side. There's an antenna built into it.  So, how does one go about cracking their windshield without it looking intentional? (Aside from driving behind a gravel truck)
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Sep 9, 2016 22:29
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Grab a rock and throw it at the windshield? Hope you like insurance fraud.
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Sep 9, 2016 22:31
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The Wonder Weapon posted:So, how does one go about cracking their windshield without it looking intentional? (Aside from driving behind a gravel truck) Get a chip repaired, requiring you to spend time on the phone with your insurance company and the windscreen company. Then take a day off work to hang around waiting for the fix. Guaranteed that if you do that, you'll get another crack within 2 weeks.
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Sep 9, 2016 22:45
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Raluek posted:I've been considering it. I probably will, once money becomes a little less tight. It's $80/year on my policy with a fairly low deductible ($250) and coverage for aftermarket stereo components. It's a lot cheaper than having a car get stolen and not being covered against theft.  (I learned this the hard way)
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Sep 10, 2016 00:52
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The Wonder Weapon posted:Mine is definitely going to be on the more expensive side. There's an antenna built into it. Depends more on quantity made. Altima in 2004 went to a rear glass antenna. Baseball went through it that year and cost to replace was $170
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Sep 10, 2016 01:01
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The Wonder Weapon posted:Mine is definitely going to be on the more expensive side. There's an antenna built into it. Porcelin off of a spark plug will spider web it pretty good. An experienced tech will probably know what you did. I also cracked mine from the inside by chucking my phone in anger while dealing with AAA's roadside assistance. Told the insurace company my phone hit it during an emergency stop, they said ok and replaced it for free. Ymmv. All of the above is probably illegal.
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Sep 10, 2016 06:45
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Elmnt80 posted:Porcelin off of a spark plug will spider web it pretty good. An experienced tech will probably know what you did. There's absolutely zero "probably" involved Check your insurance policy! I get a free windscreen every year because my insurance companies thinks that making sure the driver can properly see out the front of the car actually reduces accidents.
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Sep 10, 2016 15:18
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What type of adhesive should I use to attach a new windshield trim piece? Will any old black silicone work? And do I need any special tools? The piece has a lip that looks like it's supposed to go under the glass.
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Sep 10, 2016 23:12
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Interior, exterior, plastic, rubber, chrome, what the gently caress. How about a little information?
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Sep 11, 2016 01:09
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It's the exterior trim of my rear windshield. How bout a picture?  That's the old one, falling off. It's rubber with a chrome strip in the middle.
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Sep 11, 2016 02:35
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What kind of car is it? There are different techniques depending.
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Sep 11, 2016 02:42
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