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It's not that bad. Worst part is pulling the rear CCT if you have to adjust the rear cylinder. Remove the footpeg bracket in order to get more access. My tips are: One cylinder at a time. Don't turn the engine over with the cams out. Mark the cams to the cam chain so it's easy to reinstall them at the same location. Take a picture of the cam markings when you're at TDC. Adjust to just off the loose end of the spec if possible. It's a 45 minute job if you've done it before a few times, adjustment included. Buy a shim kit. Procedure looks like this: Lift tank Unbolt radiator, disconnect / remove fan and sensor wiring if needed to get more space, swing it down and out of the way Remove coil boots Pull plugs Remove valve covers Remove crank rotation plug/inspection port Rotate to tdc on one cylinder (making sure the cams aren't depressing the valves so you know you're at tdc). Take a picture of how the cam markings line up with the heads, then measure, if adjustment is needed, mark cams to cam chain, remove CCT, remove cams, swap shims one at a time, reinstall cams, torquing cam caps with a torque wrench, reinstall CCT (make sure it deploys after you've installed it so you don't over tension the chain) Once first cylinder is done, turn over the engine by hand until the second cylinder is at TDC, repeat above. Once you've got both cylinders adjusted, rotate it through a few times and take a look at your pictures to make sure the engine doesn't jump time and the cam markings line up like they did before. Reinstall valve covers, fresh plugs, plug boots, radiator, lower tank, off you go.
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Aug 4, 2016 00:28
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I need some help, some rear end in a top hat knocked over my 04 SV650 while it was parked. Parked my care nearby to find it just lying on its side in the street with the cover on. I was able to get it back upright and noticed some gas dripping down the engine cover, but there wasn't continuous dripping so I don't think a fuel line is broken. I turned the key to on and there was no error light. I tried starting it and it truned over and started, but the idle was around 800 then slowly went down and died. Subsequently when I press the switch to on I hear the usual "whine", but I press the start switch there is a click and it doesn't even turn over and the LCD goes blank until I release the ignition switch at which point the LCD "resets" I have no idea where to start looking for the solution and I can't transport the bike (only have a car)
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Aug 5, 2016 23:39
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What you are describing is a dead battery. If you have a flooded lead acid battery, the tip over probably lost some acid and that's why the battery is weak. The bigger problem is if it leaked battery acid all over your frame and motor and whatnot you have a mess to clean up and you're on a timer If you don't have a flooded battery it may just be coincidence that the battery also died
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Aug 6, 2016 00:34
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Welp, I really hope not because I'm posting from work! Yay night shift! I suppose the liquid could have been acid; smelled like gasoline though. I need to inspect where the battery is anyways (that's where the tip over sensor is I guess?) so that'll be first thing to do tomorrow. Hopefully I didn't leave a bunch of battery acid all over the frame; I didn't notice any discoloration or anything odd
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Aug 6, 2016 02:06
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Im posting to complain that the first gen naked has Phillips head screws on the brake fluid reservoirs and I'm pro at stripping them. On the bright side I finally learned how to use speedouts and my brakes are feeling good.
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Aug 6, 2016 21:26
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Checked the clutch switch and reinstalled the tip over sensor, but still no start. Took the battery to a local shop where the voltage was a little low at 12.4v (supposed to.be at least 12.5) and they are charging it for me. Still though, if it was only a tiny bit low would expect it to at least turn over. Anything else to check if it still doesn't start up with a recharged battery?
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Aug 6, 2016 23:18
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Straight up replaced the battery, still no start. I hear a click from the fuse relay near the battery and an electric whine from the front. I've also reinstalled tip sensor already too Edit: also tried roll starting it unsuccessfully several times. I have no idea Pikey fucked around with this message at 23:47 on Aug 7, 2016 |
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Aug 7, 2016 22:45
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Fuel economy is ridiculously low on my SV. Did a long stint today with some riders from MotoHouston and had to fill up about every one hundred miles. 1. I'm only adding about 2.5 gallons every fill up. Fuel light blinks rather than staying constantly on. I don't seem to remember that on my old SV. 2. Pretty sure the biek has been geared down. I almost hit the Rev limiter in 5th gear at about 110 mph. I'll have to count sprocket teeth. 3. Looks like a power commander three is installed. I'll have to download the manual and see what map is loaded up. Otherwise the bike is bunches of fun. Love the Pilot Road 3s I just mounted up. Do you guys think changing the gearing back to stock will gain me noticeable fuel economy? Also I need a new front master cylinder like loving yesterday. The GSXR radial is terrible.
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Aug 7, 2016 22:57
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Blinking is one gallon, steady is half gallon.
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Aug 7, 2016 22:58
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Are you filling the tank by just jamming the nozzle in there?
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Aug 8, 2016 00:47
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XYLOPAGUS posted:Fuel economy is ridiculously low on my SV. Did a long stint today with some riders from MotoHouston and had to fill up about every one hundred miles. on first gen i believe 4th gear is rev limit at 110mph, it is on mine anyway. and yeah, increasing gearing should increase top end fuel economy. edit: gearing commander says I'm slightly tall but that you're short Verge fucked around with this message at 01:59 on Aug 8, 2016 |
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Aug 8, 2016 01:42
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Z3n posted:Are you filling the tank by just jamming the nozzle in there? Yes? Angling toward my crotch. Just looked up the tank capacity and I should be able to get like an extra gallon? I do stand the bike upright and close my visor, though.
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Aug 8, 2016 18:09
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If you're just jamming the nozzle in and filling until it shuts off, you could easily be leaving a gallon-sized air space at the top. You need to slowly withdraw the nozzle as it fills up, making sure you get the fuel right to the top. Though that doesn't really address your 2.5 gallons / 100 miles thing. 40mpg seems a little low. That might be the effect of the sprocket, though.
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Aug 8, 2016 19:25
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My sv will generally take me to 140 or 150 miles before the light starts flashing. That's mostly commuting though
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Aug 8, 2016 20:28
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You learn which gas stations near you have nozzles with good throttling characteristics pretty quick, I'm no case can you rely on the auto-shutoff when you're dealing with a bike. My SV gets mid 40s for fuel economy, maybe 50 if I baby it, so 40 with non-stock gearing might not be that far off from expected
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Aug 8, 2016 20:29
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Gotta pull the fore skin back and top it off manually or you're never gonna really fill 'er up.
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Aug 8, 2016 20:40
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Z3n posted:Gotta pull the fore skin back This is the only thing I can think of whenever I use these drat California gas pumps. 
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Aug 8, 2016 20:57
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Z3n posted:Gotta pull the fore skin back and top it off manually or you're never gonna really fill 'er up. i loving hate these nozzles
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Aug 8, 2016 22:01
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Verge posted:on first gen i believe 4th gear is rev limit at 110mph, it is on mine anyway. and yeah, increasing gearing should increase top end fuel economy. Thanks! I had forgotten about that tool. I'll count me some teeth. The rear sprocket was getting close when I installed my new tires so it may be worthwhile to change it out. Hopefully I don't need to screw with the chain.
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Aug 9, 2016 12:28
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Looks like I just need to be more patient when I fill up. This is bike number 5 and my second SV. Maybe I'm still in that early excited stage. 
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Aug 9, 2016 12:32
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XYLOPAGUS posted:Thanks! I had forgotten about that tool. I'll count me some teeth. The rear sprocket was getting close when I installed my new tires so it may be worthwhile to change it out. Hopefully I don't need to screw with the chain. np. I've always heard to replace the sprockets and chain at the same time, something about them wearing each other down, can anyone back this up or am i just spitting third hand Bologna? at any rate check your chain real good because if your sprockets are trash, your chain might be too and a trashed train can do a lot more than just break and leave you stranded.
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Aug 9, 2016 18:30
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Welp I should definitely start posting pics of this thing. To keep with the build quality I ordered the Brembo 19RCS front master cylinder. Apparently, I hate money.
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Aug 12, 2016 19:48
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Verge posted:np. I've always heard to replace the sprockets and chain at the same time, something about them wearing each other down, can anyone back this up or am i just spitting third hand Bologna? at any rate check your chain real good because if your sprockets are trash, your chain might be too and a trashed train can do a lot more than just break and leave you stranded. Can't hurt to change them all at the same time but if the chain is in good shape there's no need to. Chances of that might not be great if the sprockets are thrashed, check for tight links and wear on the rollers
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Aug 27, 2016 04:45
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Fresh on the SV train, picked up my first big bike after passing my MOD2 a couple of weeks ago. Got myself a K8 SV650S and I'm LOVING it so far, although the sportier riding position is taking a bit of getting used to. My wrists are taking a hammering, so I'm starting to use my thighs on the tank to take a share of my bodyweight. Beauty of this purchase is that I did a reverse part-exchange on the Yamaha MT125 I bought last year, which paid for my years tax, insurance and a new bash hat and summer gloves. It's a tiny bit tatty, but I love it. Any ideas for a phone mount though? The clip-on's leave no space whatsoever to attach a mount to (occupied on the right by the brake fluid reservoir and heated grips controls on the left). Was thinking maybe a tank bag with a screen in it, or maybe something that can be mounted to the inside of the screen. Any product recommendations would be cool. Captain Cancer fucked around with this message at 15:30 on Aug 30, 2016 |
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Aug 30, 2016 15:22
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Since you have the S, I would recommend a fork stem ram mount. I had one on my 650n, but it would rotate side to side in the wind - should be fine on an S though.
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Aug 30, 2016 15:27
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M42 posted:Since you have the S, I would recommend a fork stem ram mount. I had one on my 650n, but it would rotate side to side in the wind - should be fine on an S though. Hadn't even considered such a thing. Great I'll check those out!
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Aug 30, 2016 15:31
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Selling my naked SV650 for something more upright and with better wind / weather protection Goodbye SV  Hello, Tiger 800 XRT  I will in fact miss running around central London on something narrow as a scooter vtwinning the gently caress out of everything, the Tiger is a much faster bike but is miles away from that sound...
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Sep 7, 2016 07:33
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I rode home in a torrential downpour today and experienced the SV325 for the first time. Am I missing anything from this list as far as fixing it? 1) Clear the head drain hole 2) Dry out the plug boot 3) Fill it with dielectric grease 4) Profit
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Sep 10, 2016 00:43
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Jim Silly-Balls posted:I rode home in a torrential downpour today and experienced the SV325 for the first time. Am I missing anything from this list as far as fixing it? also: is there anyway to prevent this?
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Sep 10, 2016 01:21
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You can prevent it by doing the things that he listed, or not riding in the rain. Jim- That list looks correct from what I recall in my SV days.
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Sep 10, 2016 01:33
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Coydog posted:You can prevent it by doing the things that he listed, or not riding in the rain. oh cool i thought that was just a fix, not a prevention. do i need to do it every year or just every plug change?
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Sep 10, 2016 01:35
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I never got that far, sorry. In fact, I put off doing it on mine long enough for fate to take the problem away from me. You'll never have to do it again if you just get your front wheel caught up in debris at 70. #lifehax It's probably a fairly permanent fix, as long as the plugs stay in place. VVV yw Coydog fucked around with this message at 01:50 on Sep 10, 2016 |
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Sep 10, 2016 01:40
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Coydog posted:I never got that far, sorry. In fact, I put off doing it on mine long enough for fate to take the problem away from me. You'll never have to do it again if you just get your front wheel caught up in debris at 70. #lifehax cool ty
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Sep 10, 2016 01:48
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You get a front fender extender to really fix it.
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Sep 10, 2016 06:55
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Z3n posted:You get a front fender extender to really fix it. That's what I was gonna post
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Sep 11, 2016 08:00
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So I'm about to buy a 17/43 sprocket set w/ a 525 x-ring chain (110 links) w/ a rivet-style masterlink (unless someone can point out an endless chain...that'd be sweeeeet). I feel like this is a good call to maintain the acceleration that I love while keeping total wear (engine and chain) to a minimum for my bike. I'm expecting better mpg/range as a bonus. Am I being dumb in any way? Oh, and if no one stops me, I may buy some or all of this from Cyclegear so if anyone has a brand they can recommend I'd rather go w/ a goon's recommendation. Z3n posted:You get a front fender extender to really fix it. I don't want to drill holes in my fender v.v
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Sep 18, 2016 02:44
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Verge posted:
Fwiw I just glued one on mine and it's held up just fine for a while now.
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Sep 18, 2016 03:21
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brotastrophe posted:Fwiw I just glued one on mine and it's held up just fine for a while now. What the gently caress glue is strong enough for this poo poo?
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Sep 18, 2016 04:40
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Verge posted:So I'm about to buy a 17/43 sprocket set You are gonna hate this. Please do it and let us know for sure, though.
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Sep 18, 2016 08:19
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Alright, Coy, I'll take good advice when it's given and not make myself hate...myself. I think right now I'm running PO's 15/47 based on tach vs speedo, maybe 15/46. Should I just go stock and order a basic set? TBH I don't understand how all this affects acceleration since I can always shift down to change the overall ratio but smarter men than me don't seem to be pointing that out so there must be something I'm missing.
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Sep 18, 2016 08:37
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