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Local tool shop had a sale on! So i went and got myself one of these! http://www.unimig.com.au/catalogue_product.asp?product=1017&category=11&subcategory=27 40A Plasma Cutter. Cleancut 10mm, sever 12mm. WHY DIDNT I BUY ONE OF THESE YEARS AGO? Best bit? $650
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Sep 11, 2016 23:53
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kastein posted:Not sure what the problem with that is, garages are meant for dirty work and driveways can be hosed off? It's the good old suburban "the driveway is an extension of the lawn and both should be maintained to perfection," most likely.
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Sep 11, 2016 23:54
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I'm looking at building a desk and bed frame when I get back from deployment. I want to have a tool that will be the most versatile for cutting lumber; I'm thinking miter saw. Who makes a decent one? What qualities are you looking for in a miter saw? What other tools (lets assume I don't have any; I have basic "fix my car/bike" tools) would I need or want to make this job easier?
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Sep 12, 2016 07:37
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Compound mitre saw- I've got a makita at home and it means I can cut stuff thats about 200mm wide at up to a 60 degree angle
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Sep 12, 2016 07:57
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Wasabi the J posted:I'm looking at building a desk and bed frame when I get back from deployment. Miter saws are fantastic, a sliding compound miter is even better. I've got the 12" HF one from my brother, but I don't particularly care for it, too loose and sloppy. I liked my old delta shopmaster much better, but it deflected on a cut and ate the blade, so I'm stuck with the harbor freight for now. Get an 18v battery powered circular saw and a Kreg rip cut jig for ripping down sheet goods. I'd invest in a good 18v lithium battery tool kit, like Makita or Milwaukee, and get a cordless drill/impact driver too. Track saws are another excellent option for ripping down sheet goods as well. If you're getting a miter saw, I'd get a stand for it. I'd also go to harbor freight and pick up a couple of plastic sawhorses, those things are infinitely useful and can be combined with a reinforced piece of plywood for an instant bench. If you're interested in woodworking, I also highly highly recommend buying the keg jig kit. It's stupidly and unnecessarily expensive, but I don't know how I ever lived without it--definitely a must buy. Wood glue and foam brushes are also a great thing to have. On down the line I'd buy a six gallon portable compressor and brad nailer for tacking on trim and stuff, that's also a great thing to have. A good tape measure and steel ruler is necessary too. That would be my priority list.
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Sep 12, 2016 12:23
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Hey cool, I didn't know that rip cut jig was a thing. I have just been using a 2x4 lined up to brace the circ saw against, this thing seems like it would be a lot easier to set up and use.
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Sep 12, 2016 14:34
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Wasabi the J posted:
Table saw is more versatile a hundred times over. Miter saw is pretty far down the list actually.
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Sep 12, 2016 19:17
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Everyone's favourite Canadian has reviewd that HF grinder that you guys are always banging on about : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eKB-zDJghZ0
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Sep 12, 2016 21:16
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wormil posted:Table saw is more versatile a hundred times over. Miter saw is pretty far down the list actually. I'd argue that most people do a lot more cutting dimensional lumber to length than breaking down sheet goods or ripping. If space is a concern, a miter saw and a track saw take up a lot less space than a table saw.
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Sep 12, 2016 22:02
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spog posted:Everyone's favourite Canadian has reviewd that HF grinder that you guys are always banging on about : Grip https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eKB-zDJghZ0&t=200s Edit: I need an air horn I can attach to my air compressor to terrorize the neighborhood kids. Any suggestions? GnarlyCharlie4u fucked around with this message at 22:08 on Sep 12, 2016 |
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Sep 12, 2016 22:06
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I have just been given an oldschool compressor a friend had on the farm he was selling. I will get some pics and details later. She only chooches up to about 30psi and the poo poo that drained from the tank was lovely. Is that level of psi going to be any use other than topping up tyres and poo poo? I am thinking of sanding and cutting wheels mainly.
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Sep 12, 2016 22:11
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30psi wouldn't even air up tires, and if the tank was full of nasty poo poo I wouldn't want to pressurize it either.
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Sep 12, 2016 22:29
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I have an air impact gun that isn't bapping. I took it apart to see if I could fix it. What kind of grease should I use when putting it back together? I figure it's a good time to clean and relube. I would like to bap bap again, but it was a cheapo that I don't really use often, so I'm not too worried about it if it's a goner.
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Sep 12, 2016 22:35
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Uthor posted:I have an air impact gun that isn't bapping. I took it apart to see if I could fix it. What kind of grease should I use when putting it back together? I figure it's a good time to clean and relube. I would like to bap bap again, but it was a cheapo that I don't really use often, so I'm not too worried about it if it's a goner. depends on the make. What brand is it? Generally speaking, Bel Ray air tool lube and waterproof grease are top notch.
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Sep 12, 2016 22:47
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Porter Cable https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00005R1IC/ref=cm_cr_arp_mb_bdcrb_top?ie=UTF8 Edit: I have some miscellaneous greases laying around that I'd rather use. I believe one of them is just a regular all purpose kind. I for sure have brake grease and silicone grease and the like. Uthor fucked around with this message at 22:59 on Sep 12, 2016 |
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Sep 12, 2016 22:57
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Safety Dance posted:I'd argue that most people do a lot more cutting dimensional lumber to length than breaking down sheet goods or ripping. quote:If space is a concern, a miter saw and a track saw take up a lot less space than a table saw.
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Sep 13, 2016 00:20
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Ferremit posted:Local tool shop had a sale on! So i went and got myself one of these! Aren't they great? I don't get a chance to use my Cutmaster as much as I wish, but man, it's handy.
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Sep 13, 2016 03:16
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Safety Dance posted:I'd argue that most people do a lot more cutting dimensional lumber to length than breaking down sheet goods or ripping. If space is a concern, a miter saw and a track saw take up a lot less space than a table saw. The criteria was "most versatile for cutting lumber" and that would be a tablesaw. There was also talk of building a desk and bed. Tablesaw is the most versatile saw and woodworking tool. Track saw is awesome for sheet goods.
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Sep 13, 2016 07:38
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Just about anything a tablesaw can do can be done with a $30 circular saw. I love having a table saw, but I wouldn't get one before a miter and/or circular saw. I'd recommend a miter saw first because its the easiest/fastest tool for probably 80% of the cuts most people will be making. Close second* would be a circular saw because it can do almost anything and is really cheap and portable (if you only have one rip cut to make it isn't really worth hauling out the table saw unless you have room to leave it set up all the time). Third would be the table saw because its a lot faster/easier to do rip cuts than with a circular but its much more expensive and cumbersome to store/set up. Miter cuts on a table saw are easier than with the circular saw but not as easy as the miter saw. *If you know you'll need it or its a small job, get the circular saw first. Who cares if its a pain in the rear end to set up a miter cut with a speed square if you only have to do it once or twice and it saves you from needing a more expensive saw?
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Sep 13, 2016 08:59
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wormil posted:The criteria was "most versatile for cutting lumber" and that would be a tablesaw. There was also talk of building a desk and bed. Tablesaw is the most versatile saw and woodworking tool. Track saw is awesome for sheet goods. If "most versatile for cutting lumber" was the only criterion, why didn't you recommend a Felder CF 741 S Professional? http://www.felderusa.com/us-us/products/combination-machines/combination-machine-new-cf-741-s-professional.html  It's a table saw, jointer, planer, router table, mortiser, and tenon cutter all in one.
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Sep 13, 2016 14:20
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Whatever happened to "a really nice jigsaw, some saw horses, straight-edges, and clamps"? Do fukken ANYTHING with that.
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Sep 13, 2016 15:40
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Cat Hatter posted:Just about anything a tablesaw can do can be done with a $30 circular saw. Eh, not really. The benefit of a tablesaw is precision, being able to duplicate parts easily. Plus tablesaws can do cove cutting, take dado blades, and make molding (although almost no one does that anymore). He asked for most versatile and the answer is tablesaw. If the criteria was a tight budget or typical DIY stuff then I would recommend a circular saw. Miter saw if you are doing framing work. Jig saw for craft projects. Cat Hatter posted:*If you know you'll need it or its a small job, get the circular saw first. Who cares if its a pain in the rear end to set up a miter cut with a speed square if you only have to do it once or twice and it saves you from needing a more expensive saw? I 100% agree with this.
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Sep 13, 2016 17:51
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scuz posted:Whatever happened to "a really nice jigsaw, some saw horses, straight-edges, and clamps"? Do fukken ANYTHING with that. Long straight or bevel cuts with a jigsaw is a nightmare. Track saw supremacy.
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Sep 13, 2016 18:16
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scuz posted:Whatever happened to "a really nice jigsaw, some saw horses, straight-edges, and clamps"? Do fukken ANYTHING with that. Never had a decent cut with a jigsaw. Ever. I'd go with a circular saw before compound miter. Both are useful as hell and can be had for under $200. I suppose, though, depending on what cuts you'll be making long term, you could go with compound miter and get your panels cut wherever you buy them.
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Sep 13, 2016 23:40
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QuarkMartial posted:Never had a decent cut with a jigsaw. Ever. I was given a decent 80's Craftsman tablesaw and *goddamn* is that thing useful. My carpentry is "functional" at best but it's way better than it would be without the tablesaw.
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Sep 14, 2016 01:14
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I'm with Safety Dance on this one Felder or go home  Honestly, I almost never use my table saw, even on sheet goods--too much of a pain to handle, especially in my tiny garage. In fact, I built my last project (sans drawers):  with only a miter saw, circular saw, and cheap dimensional lumber. I built this rocking horse:  With just a bandsaw and wood glue
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Sep 14, 2016 02:46
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OSU_Matthew posted:I built this rocking horse: Did you use dowels, or is that wood glue in sheer? I know it's supposed to be stronger than the wood around it, but my brain just doesn't trust it alone yet.
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Sep 14, 2016 03:17
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Safety Dance posted:Did you use dowels, or is that wood glue in sheer? I know it's supposed to be stronger than the wood around it, but my brain just doesn't trust it alone yet. Yup! I chopped off bits of the handle piece and used a forstner bit to drill holes in the hooves and torso to mortise/tenon everything together. No screws or mechanical fasteners otherwise
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Sep 14, 2016 05:00
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....................
wormil fucked around with this message at 04:05 on Sep 15, 2016 |
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Sep 14, 2016 07:22
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I live in the land of rust. Honda rotor screws are the bane of my existence. I've broken many impact screwdriver bits. Sometimes I just chisel the things out. Other times I drill the head off. I have assembled a device. An impact rated 1/2" drive #3 Phillips bit on a Wivco Shake-n-break in the air hammer.  Right after I put that thing together, an Accord came in for front and rear pads and rotors. All 8 rotor screws came out without any complaint whatsoever.  Wivco actually makes a shake-n-break meant for this with a built in lever and bit holder rather than my setup, but I have also used this mess on exhaust bolts and it really works well.
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Sep 14, 2016 14:11
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Why isn't there anything like that contraption that includes an actual impact driver (like the ones you hit with a manual hammer)?
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Sep 14, 2016 14:19
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revmoo posted:Why isn't there anything like that contraption that includes an actual impact driver (like the ones you hit with a manual hammer)? Because most of us don't have a third hand to hold while hammering and twisting. Edit: thought you meant something entirely diffrent. Its early I'm sorry but lisle makes something that does that as well. And it's lisle so 
clam ache fucked around with this message at 14:49 on Sep 14, 2016 |
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Sep 14, 2016 14:26
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revmoo posted:Why isn't there anything like that contraption that includes an actual impact driver (like the ones you hit with a manual hammer)? Laser do one in the UK. No idea if it's any good or not. http://www.lasertools.co.uk/product/6064
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Sep 14, 2016 14:36
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How is that whole contraption meant to work? I have run into similar problems with rotor retaining screws and never quite got any of them out without also grinding down the existing rotor 
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Sep 14, 2016 15:10
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The shake and brake is the piece that goes into an air hammer. It has a 1/2" drive on the end. So you are just hammering straight into the screw. I push the whole impact into the rotor so it doesn't bounce out, and put slight pressure on the 19mm wrench to loosen. The screw will then dance loose on its own.
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Sep 14, 2016 15:31
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Aces! Seems like a thing that a guy would need to get those stupid fuckers outta there.
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Sep 14, 2016 15:33
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scuz posted:Aces! Seems like a thing that a guy would need to get those stupid fuckers outta there. It really does help. I also smash the screw with the air hammer and a flat hammer tip. To help impact and loosen the screw.
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Sep 14, 2016 19:51
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burns_2k posted:Laser do one in the UK. No idea if it's any good or not. Yes this is exactly what I had in mind. Very nice. I'd buy one if it was available in the US.
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Sep 14, 2016 21:17
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0toShifty posted:The shake and brake is the piece that goes into an air hammer. It has a 1/2" drive on the end. This is amazing.
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Sep 14, 2016 23:43
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revmoo posted:Yes this is exactly what I had in mind. Very nice. I'd buy one if it was available in the US. ??? https://www.amazon.com/Mayhew-37316-2-Inch-Pneumatic-Breaker/dp/B008M23A6Y
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Sep 14, 2016 23:59
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